Shaping a Turbo Exhaust Manifold Part 1

[Music] [Music] all right guys we have got us another fun manifold job to do for my buddy phil over at mayhem motorsports and what you got here is this is a stainless exhaust manifold for a turbo kit so it mounts on the engine like in about that manner there and this part sticks up and then this is where your turbo is going to hook into this uh area right in there it is stainless steel i believe he says 304 stainless steel and the problem with this unit right here and seems to be a pretty common theme with the uh engine work that he gets involved in it is not sealing up you can actually see it he left it alone so that that i could see it and of course i can show you there you see you've got blowout right here where it's all dark so it's leaking there it's definitely leaking down here on this end as well and it's leaking here thing is so unflat that there's no way you're ever going to get this thing to seal up i don't care how many gaskets you use or whatever it's not going to seal up it's not it's not going to seal i went ahead and got my straight edge to uh check this thing and it is it is almost comically out and i know that probably hard for you to see but so we're touching here right here on this side of the ear so we're touching there and we're touching right here okay it's way low on this side over here and it's way low over here let's go about here to the middle and look and see and and i don't know if you can see right there i mean it's like a mile off right here on this side all right if you come out here to the very which would be the bottom of it it's the same thing so you've got a couple places that depends on how you push down on or where your straight edge is at but you're a mile off over here on this side so you know you can straighten it up over here like this get in line with this side and this side's way off over there so you've got a high spot in the middle here and it way low this was a it was either plasma or laser cut i don't know what they use but you can tell it was cut out cnc cut but you know the it was not machined at all it was just left in whatever finish it was and i don't know what these manufacturers how they you know how they're handling these jobs whenever they do it the welding doesn't look bad at all i mean that's that's nice looking welds they did a good job filling it got a really pretty bead in there so i would assume and i think this is how you're supposed to do this stuff is that you actually have a fixture that this flange is bolted down to and when you go to weld your pipes you know this is all bolted down you get in there and you do your welds and you let it cool i've never built manifolds myself so i don't i can't tell you the exact steps that people use to to ensure flatness on them but i think that the only way to ensure absolute true flatness is to machine them after you weld it and you can even use a belt sander you know if you've got a nice big heavy duty industrial belt sander you can easily take these things over to a belt sander and get it probably flat enough to for what this is going to be used for there's a lot of folks that's done that over the years with cast iron exhaust manifolds it's just hit them on the belt sander i used to have a big 80 inch belt sander and i ended up selling it a while back because i just i it was just sort of in my way i didn't really use it very much but at the old shop man we used it all the time so this is actually uh phil's got a little belt sander and he uses it sometimes on these on these jobs but he said this is too big for that belt sander that he's got and he wanted to see if i could machine it so that's what we're going to do this is going to be another shaper job and this is a great example of why i wanted to acquire my universal shaper is to be able to set up and hold odd shaped pieces such as a you know a fabricated exhaust manifold so i kind of did a little mock-up earlier and this tube is actually pretty heavy this is a pretty thick wall tube and it's pretty uniform right in this area right here so i think what i can do is clamp this in my big milling vise clamp it over here on the big part of the tube and then we can probably support it out here on this side with a jack and a hold down clamp and then we can use my universal table on the shaper to get this thing lined up square with the ram so that's my planning that's my thinking let's go ahead and give it a try see if we can get it flat here i am working on my mock setup and what i think may work we've got a we've got this machinist jack right here that we will use to support out here on the on the outer end so i've got about that much area or so that we'll be able to clamp there in the vise and i think that that's going to work i'm going to go ahead and we're just going to close it up a little bit and it looks like it's probably going to catch fine there and my thinking is that the the light amount of cuts that we're going to be taking on this is that this right here should work pretty good we'll get everything leveled up indicated we'll get this set underneath this tube the way it needs to be get it bolted down and i think i got enough room maybe i can come up with another stud here and put a strap clamp here on this outer end to support it and keep it from moving around keep looking at this trying to minimize a bunch of angular misalignments and things like that what we might be able to do is use a parallel right here on top of the jaw come up underneath the flange on both sides and maybe help try to get this square and parallel with the vise there i don't know if it's necessary but we may give it a shot so that's uh that's inch and a half right there we're at an angle so looks like maybe a one and five eight or one and three quarter parallel may work let's uh i'll try that first and see if we can get it lined up that way this is my brand new set of parallels made for eight inch vise so they're eight inch long parallels i just got these from kbc tools this is a set of parallels that i had been wanting for the eight inch milling vices and i was looking on the kvc website and i couldn't find an eight inch parallel set on there they had they had individual pairs listed so i emailed uh steve roe over there kbc and said hey i'm looking for a full set of eight inch parallels because they have them listed for six inch but not eight and he said no problem i can find them for you and that's exactly what he did so he uh he sourced these for me and got him coming and they were i want to say they were around 185 dollars for this set of parallels right there i know that they're uh imported from asia but these things right here always do the good job that we need them too so we got them from one inch up to two and one eighth inches so we got one and five eighths one and three quarter i'm going to go ahead i haven't even seen what these guys look like yet so let's unwrap them and see what they look like they look pretty nice finish on the grinding there and they're labeled as to what size they are they're a quarter inch thick so these are pretty heavy all right we'll uh we'll give these guys a try and see if we can utilize these to kind of help square up our flange over there all right let's try this and see what happens this may not work but i want to give it a shot anyway you may still end up having to indicate the the table and that's the reason why i'm setting this up we can utilize this universal table to pivot or nod the way that we want and line up the uh the flange but we'll go ahead and see if we can push it down on these to see if we can get it straight enough to cut and if not we'll just go ahead and indicate it anyway so let me grab the part i'm looking down there to make sure i don't go into the vise too far and clamp on that radius up here on the side so it looks pretty good right about there and so far it's working all right we're pushing down it's square against the parallels clamp it with the vise there straighten these up here do this again okay there we go like i said this this may be because of the way the flange is bent this may be you know kicking it up too far on this end i don't know yet this may be too far on this end we're just going to have to indicate it from there and see but i'm kind of liking the way that's looking right there they're they're definitely touching so let's go ahead and i'll move on with the we'll get the jack over here to support the solder end and then we'll start working on the flange face getting it indicated in i need to clean this too and get some of that gasket material off of there i should have already done that but i wanted to make sure you guys saw that before i clean that off i've been gathering up my hardware here and i think what we can do we're going to try this get my uh get my little kneeling pad right here all right see if we've got enough screw length here to support the tube you can see this jack has that b in the top that pivots i think that's going to work out pretty good right there we just need to give this outer end some support try to prevent it from moving under the tool pressure feels like that's going to get it right there that's as far back as i can go because of the y up in here in between uh the other thing we're gonna do we're gonna use this t-slot right here let's go ahead and get the stud in there all right and i can we can adjust this up to give some pressure so we're going to put a washer i'm going to use this coupling nut right here to tighten up the jack and keep it keep it in place right there all right i'll have to get a different wrench for that one nope that one works too good just come up until it's snug all right so we'll use the coupling nut right here another stud here go ahead and put this stud in the coupling nut all right and we'll put a strap clamp and put our step blocks over here on this side all right we got us another stud and a strap clamp flans nut and we got these step blocks here that we can use this step block here and then these are the adjustable height step blocks and we can use these to stack on top of each other like that and the idea is to strap it like this with a clamp get it to where the clamp is actually square to the tube maybe i don't know and clamp it clamp it like this so the the block is hanging out but the the area that it's pushing down on is actually on over the table there so that's the idea right there and i think that might work but the problem i'm seeing is this flange is not actually square in line with the stroke of the machine right here you know it's just sort of kicked out a little bit of an angle and i knew or you know if we feed from the left to the right we'll we'll come off and then we'll clear the nut but the problem is it's at an angle i don't know if uh if once i'm over here cutting this back side you know the stroke is going to be continuing to come out here this may be in the way i may need to spin this vise a little bit to get this flange over here in line so that i know that i clear this nut right there the problem being is that i'm using the t-nuts now and this the center stud here and i may have to use a clamp a different clamping method to uh spin this vice a little bit let me uh i'll bring you back and show you what we figured out i think i improved my setup i'll show you what i did here we're just about ready to start indicating but here's our machinist jack set up we've got a one two three block the two step blocks there let's pull down nice and what i did was i kicked the vice around like that we've got a little toe clamp holding that side there we've got it pulled down nice and snug we've got that t-nut in the middle holding the slot of the vise there all i've done is just use the tool as a visual reference from the corner of this radius here to uh you know this corner right there so if i run the tool up with the shaper ever so slightly we're lined up right on the edge there and i've just brought this down making sure that we're clearing everything and then we're going to be cutting right up there on the edge of that flange as well and we'll be clearing the nut but the important thing on this setup is to make sure that i don't walk away and forget to uh stop feeding it because at that point it'll start hitting the nut you know you've got maybe three quarters of an inch right there of clearance so i think we're ready to go this is pulled down snugly our vices is uh nice and snug we need to clean this surface here and go ahead and indicate it and see where we're at because we need to get this relatively straight with the stroke of the machine there while we're setting that up i thought i would point this out i've got my little thermopro radio here so i can monitor the temp of the kamado because let me take you out here and show you what i'm doing it's a beautiful day today look at that blue sky temps are mild i got the kamado going and i am cooking a pork roast let's give you a little peek see that right there so watching that that'll be an all day low and slow smoke right there so that we'll have us some pulled pork for dinner get all that gasket scraped off here i went ahead and tapped the the flange here very lightly just to seat it against the parallels so it is pushed down on the parallels now and that's i want to make sure that it it maintains a stop there so it it can't sink down into the uh device there just like if you was sitting flat on the parallels down in the bottom of the vise so we're going to go ahead and start indicating this thing and see we're going to check side to side first and i've got this nice 1 2 3 block and we'll just simply set it right here on the flange and it actually looks pretty straight across there so we'll just set it right there and we're going to run an indicator back and forth across here and see how flat we are because we may have to do some indicating all right we got the uh the big stair dial on there to make it a little bit easier to read let's just start with that right there i'm gonna hand crank it over oh yeah we got a long it's definitely angled there let me come back and put some more preload on it and see we can tell how far out it is so i'll probably go ahead and crack loose the table and then spin it to get this part of it true 10 20 30. a good 30 thousandths from side to side there yeah all right so we'll just uh we'll just use the table and i'll crack everything loose and we'll start getting it indicated um this is going to be the worm screw down here that's going to allow the table to rotate the way we need just keep working the table back and forth and adjusting the uh the rotation at the same time it's getting pretty close there looks like we might have got it right there yeah that's gonna be pretty close for what we're doing i'm gonna go ahead and snug it up and then we'll check it again all right we got the table tight there let's go ahead and run it across there i think that's going to be plenty close for what we are doing with this job yeah i'd say you know within a thousandths and this block is probably rocking a little bit as it's pushing down on it see that that's exactly what it's doing it's rocking right there in the center so we've got it within a thousandths even with it rocking that's gonna work good right there all right so we got side to side now we need to um we need to tighten up the uh tilting part of the table and be able to rotate it this way to get this flange in line that way there all right here's a good look at what we're going to be doing to indicate it i just got one of my good 12 inch parallels sitting in the center of it so we're going to average it based off the center point of this and make both of our low sides even and you can see it's out quite a ways and that's just because we're not sitting flat in there so this is where we'll we will loosen up these two nuts here and then we've got these two nuts here and then our table can rotate [Applause] all right you start moving the worm as as the indicator is going back and forth there ever so gently i just stare at that needle wow it's moving just like it did before there oh i know i know what's going on i had to feed actually i had the knee it was elevating there that's what's going on when we wrapped it earlier all right now it's checking [Applause] out then a half of thousands of being straight across there we're just going to leave it right there it's really difficult to try to get that dead zero once you get to the tipping point that's that's perfect we'll go ahead and get the wrench and lock it down a lot of times when you go to tighten up these nuts it does try to move it very so slightly on the indicator there so it looks like it moved at about a half a thousand trout but we're within 1000 to being straight on the parallel itself [Music] all right guys we are ready to touch off on the flange and start making our cut there's a tool we're going to use that's the same tool that we used on the aluminum intake manifold and what we're doing is we're just double checking everything we're making sure that we're clearing this we're making sure that we're clearing this pipe right there i've also made sure that the vise was adequately tightened down this is tight so i just double checked everything so i've got the tool clearing the flange and what i'm doing is i'm just i've already got everything set assuring that everything is clear like it should so that'll be the end of the cut there we're going to start over here on this side and cut from left to right [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Abom79

Views: 113,692

Rating: 4.9165773 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, turbo, turbo manifold, turbo exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold, coyote motor, automotive machining, automotive repair, job shop, machine shop, shaper, metal shaper, g&e shaper, old tools, vintage machines, machining stainless, fixtures, jigs and fixtures, tmx, tmx vise, shaper vise, hold down clamps, indicator, starrett

Id: lnxK8Uy4w10

Length: 26min 21sec (1581 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 09 2020