Sending 5.13c without a Belayer [How I Climb Alone]

lead rope selling is one of my side Pursuits in rock climbing that highly appeals to my engineering brain self-belang on the sharp end creates both a test of athletic skills and rope system mastery in 2021 I read pointed Father Time a 20 pitch 513b in Yosemite as a five-day ground up solo Quest at that time I had only lead rope solo free climbs a few 12 minuses and improvised the systems mostly on the go it was no doubt one of my coolest rock climbing experiences I have since been scheming about future solo quests but wanted to level up my methods first I hope to be able to climb near my limit without fighting my ropes and also be comfortable taking huge repeated Wingers like these Total Recall is a pumpy 13c at my home sport Craig approving grounds for system improvements this slime is a great stress test with pure resistance climbing and an area did Point Crux well above the previous Bolt this is a basic primer for my solo red pudding system it starts with the inline anchor stick clip to the first two bolts the upper anchor draw is a triple locking steel with a quick link on the Rope side the quick link allows rope movement but creates a not blocking backup if the first bolt somehow anchored itself the quick link also has a rope cinching rubber widget to allow the first bolt to be cinched upward the first bolt I used another triple locking steel Carabiner and an Alpine butterfly to fix the Rope this clip also shows a prototype bungee Drive I've been working on to soften the static catches of the fixed rope anchor however this first bolt is attached cinching it upwards provides significant Peace of Mind against cross-loading carabiners with the Rope end fixed I set up my self-play kit I personally use an unmodified grigory plus clipped upside down to my blade Loop and then held upwards off a minimal chest harness this is absolutely misuse of the blade of ice so you are on your own with risk assessment I do a quick locking check setting up the grigri as if I was going to wrap down off the line I just fixed smooth self-bulleting with the grigory comes down to keeping the brake side rope at a certain weight creating what is called the cash Loop the weight of the Rope is light enough to allow Auto feeding while moving upwards but is heavy enough to engage the friction-based camming to catch a fall for Hard free climbing I like to pre-cache my rope and clove hitched Loops which also serves as a backup if my Gregory fails surprisingly this added rope weights and bulk doesn't appear with the climbing as much as it looks again I go into much deeper detail in my personal website for how to set up these clove hitches oh [Music] Total Recall starts with a V5 crimple they're right off the ground so I have a high bold sticklet [Music] after the particularly fingery intro there's about seven bolts of resistance climbing where every hole is about one pad flat edge with big moves and not a single jug foreign [Music] [Music] is the biggest difference compared to a standard belay the Rope needs to be fed downward through the grigory first and then clipped High only after enough slack has pulled up it is worth a good three or four pumps downward as it is a real bummer to come short on Slack [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] Loop runs out a quick one-headed motion dumps a clove hitch and Begins the next cash besides this added motion every 15 feet or so I move upward with an auto feeding rope [Music] about every other jaw you'll notice that I cinched the Rope after clipping these straws also have rubber rope cinching widgets similar to the quick link anchor trough this lets you manage the slack in the system as you go being sure the Rope has not unknowingly backfed into a big pile of a slack below you this is a definite danger when lead soloing which could create unexpectedly huge Falls this also holds the entirety of my rope weight on the wall side while all that rope hanging off my harness looks cumbersome in reality I don't have much more resistance than I would with the weight of a lead rope dragging through quick draws [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] for especially High clips like this one I'll sometimes do a compound motion where I'll feed slack with one arm do half a move and then clip high with the other foreign [Music] foreign [Music] Total Recall comes at the 60 foot mark an awkward reach left gains a small crimp side pole and then a little foot dance sets you up with a right hand Gaston crimp with neither hand down pulling it takes tricky smear opposition to pop upwards off your toes to a good pitch there's both here at your waist you really can't clip it until after doing the hard move [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] C the sport line is by new highest grade for a lead rope solo red point of course sport craiging alone is not the end goal but I'm pleased with my systems and ready for something off the ground [Music]

Channel: Brent Barghahn

Views: 30,059

Keywords:

Id: oH1Xs0gOpOk

Length: 12min 43sec (763 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 10 2023

Reddit Comments

[u/BigRed11]

Yea Brent is a monster, this is rad.

Also I really hope nobody gets it in their head that this is a reasonable way to climb hard for the average person.

[u/BongRipsForBoognish]

Fuck. Hardest I ever rope soloed was was 10c, using a Silent Partner, and that was incredibly difficult and scary.

[u/spiralz]

Not familiar at all with rope soloing techniques, that was super interesting. How does he get down once finished? Or is this a top out and hike down only option?

[u/onepdub]

Paging u/miles_adamson

[u/Senior-Lychee-2796]

Saw him do this in person. Crazy odds running into it on reddit.

Heres the route: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105810966

[u/cheezusjeezus]

Just want to comment that I went to college with Brent and saw him climbing when he was starting out. Hard to believe we were equal level at one point. His progress is awesome.

[u/Eothas_Foot]

That was really cool

[u/THPSJimbles]

That was fucking NUTS!

[u/katsudesu11]

Saw this guy take a whip on his grigri.