Lead Rope Soloing With The Master! (Yann)

how's it going everybody today we have a super special episode now this topic has been requested probably since the beginning of my channel and that's how to lead rope solo so what better a lead rope solo than with the master himself Jan from Bliss climbing if you don't know Jan he he has an online course on the topic he's lead rope solid El Cap already uh really knowledgeable guide it's pretty funny in this episode I tried to play dumb and throw mistakes in front of him and he catches every single one of them pretty pretty knowledgeable guy so this is a really fun episode not even just for Lee rope sewing but for Track Climbing in general you could see some some things that may come up while you're Trad climbing so yeah let's let's get right into it let's watch this episode I'm excited let's go oh it's a little bit of Madness right now after trying to figure everything out you getting that camera ready okay okay climbing with Josh one okay everybody we're gonna learn how to uh rope solo so by the master himself yawn so here we go let's get started let's see how we how he does it acts like a total dummy just by the way just by the way I'm gonna make it real hard for you act really dumb that's good okay good so put put all that to climb you can okay you got it make it easy for you um take what you need on there also trick is gonna be not losing these mics John yes okay we'll we'll be really careful about the mics okay so set me up okay uh anything I drop here we don't need it um okay you want two slings on your chest to uh make a quick chest harness okay we're making a chest harness okay yes all right hit me up with the harness yeah check this out four stage four action Locker TMM okay I'll transfer some gear here for action I wonder if they'll come up with a five action hope not okay more is better no I haven't we got enough enough action as it is right yes okay do you how do you wear your slings do you wear slings at all or yeah you can put this I usually just stack them like this but you want to do a chest harness you said so you want to go over here like this yeah no no no not um okay let's do that okay that'll be your chest harness and then you put other slings on top of it for use as slings you're the boss yawn just set me up like I know nothing okay yeah well okay like this and you put it uh to use links okay so therefore so these gonna be the ones I use yeah the ones you use all right I'll stack those over this way do we have the smallest way I won't be able to grab this one because it's under this one so that's good uh put these with the other uh nuts okay do you know what not it is okay so why so is that an inside joke no no it's a song oh do you know what nuts are yeah I think I know okay there's another sling here if you need there's two quick draws here One cam so oh wow a real Trad climber Yan yeah you are I'm like a real track right there okay uh you need a grigri where's your grigri this is your I have I have mine I got mine right here okay so do you want this okay put it on the four action right into your belay Loop and pass this rope in pass this rope this is your anchor right there at the bottom okay we got it on the tree yeah you call it the bottom belay anchor this is not a course yeah yeah this is not a chorus it's just for fun entertainment yeah go see in the link for the actual online course that I provide Yan does courses this is me having some fun all right all right uh whoops I kind of know what I'm doing but at the same time I have no idea what I'm doing right that's it do you want me to back it up with this thing no no no no no okay um this is going this way here upside down yeah and then this is going Ah that's the trick and that's that's the lightest you were talking about the gray belt plume here it is this is the the one that the screw version though have you ever ever dropped all your nuts because you don't have the little nope nope I've done it okay okay okay so now you need the cash Loop s you need the cash Loop okay so this is holding my my rope here huh this will hold uh the weight of the Rope okay so we're using the tracks just to and I just pull this when I need some more or feeling it this way yes yes so this is the maximum length it's it's like I have to realize it's backwards yeah okay and I'll do the same thing on a half rope but uh never do it back here nope no chalk bag I need my chalk bag you do oh wow so now what do I do I tell myself I'm climbing and then do I tell myself I'm on belay no you do Josh you're climbing Josh you're on belay no no no no how do I self-check Yan self-check buddy check how do I buddy solo buddy check so solo home safe s the system you're using is for lead rope solo so that's good okay then uh s o o it operates check that the grigri operates when you try yeah exactly check that the micro traction operates when you pull down on the weight of the Rope yeah uh so it operates now good um everything is locked is everything locked we got a four action we got a triple action double oh we even got a bliss climbing Carabiner connected to this was that on purpose yeah yeah this is because you don't want it to slide like all the way to the center of your harness and we have a special knot right here on my harness as well so it doesn't I don't fall out of my harness yeah that won't happen got a speed climber over here okay so am I ready to climb now um almost I I need to uh have you finished this solo so no no so I O is obstructions so if you have anything on you like remove some of your gear put it on your harness to remove some of the weight that'll help you okay I feel like that's good I like I like some of this on this harness by the way so I'm just gonna kind of leave that we should do a camera check make sure everything's still filming still recording good to go okay cool okay I need uh evmarie I need uh that's good oh that's because you changed it from vertical to it's it's good uh I need I need the other rope because if someone wants to Blind five is a wide lens that's what it is okay let's drop that and um okay so obstructions and so and home safe is you have everything you need to come back down if you need to uh because you could leave some stuff here that you don't need to I like it I've already dropped all the weight off my belly so I could add weight on my harness so I think I'm good to go okay and I checked for myself so it's not good at all I don't have the chest harness okay I'm doing it wrong John can I start placing some gear yeah okay you can go up experiment with the thing and play some gear okay cool see this would be where it'd be nice to have a a GoPro looking at the gear placement spot Cecilia sorry Josh no I'm just kind of talking about to myself oh I got your special little special cam over here now the thing is I kind of don't want to waste my gear down here yeah don't waste your gear all right so I'm gonna climb I'm gonna go up a little bit yeah just make sure your ropes are untangled right now I see that there's a problem with your ropes there's it's stuck around a child yes stuck around the child is a problem indeed all right so how's that look now y'all um it looks looks good looks good there's just one yeah it's really good okay so let's let's give this a try oh so at this point I'm gonna start to get into some rope drag well not rope drag but I'm gonna never never broke solo yeah it's the oh the rope's gonna be pulling against me all right so I'll give myself some slack okay before I make a move you don't you don't need it self-feeding you don't need to give slack I don't have to go up and give myself slacking it's it's it will slip in the cash Loop remodified at all or is it just yes it's suspended through your chest through a different hole so it's modified so that's why it's self-eating yes and there's nothing else than this secondary clipping point okay so like let's say I wanted to take a fall okay actually Yeah well yeah yeah when I said what you're when I said uh I was gonna pretend like I didn't know nothing that's you that's pretty good you're right all right I got a I got a nut in here yeah I want to simulate a fall yeah just decide to see what it's like yeah you could have you could have turned this Carabiner the other way so you wouldn't risk to lose all your yeah I saw that yeah there's something to improve there okay yeah I appreciate that now do you which side which side do you put do you ever preferred this one looks like the one the one you put on your gear up yes yeah okay it is for this now this one all right all right so now I want to weight this thing and see what it's like now let's say I want to know wait let's know it slips let's say let's say I want to fall yep okay do I just start taking with this and then full uh okay now let me talk I am the teacher yeah so there's one thing that can happen is the high clip failure you high clipped and now if you start take all the rope in yeah take all the rope in and and let yourself go really slowly it will slip okay yeah yeah so this is high clip fail okay okay so if if you unlock this to remove all the slack from this and now you let it let go slowly you go down slowly it will catch okay because of the little bit of friction that is in the micro traction okay so the the worst that can happen is you go through your cash Loop okay okay it's pretty much the worst that can happen and that's when you have backups and no well if if it goes even the nuts okay it's if you go even further if anything really pushes on this uh cam there it will hinder the grigri totally and it will slip until one nut hits the system really that's why we have backup mats okay so but let's say let's say I got to a hard part I said oh I clipped this and I don't want to fall I'm just going to go like this and I'm gonna go like that yes yes yes that's it that's it be careful eh it's a good one yeah no it's very good okay but yes absolutely okay so now go back to climbing makes sense oh yeah that makes sense okay put the some rope in the cash Loop put some rope in the cat this isn't enough yeah no it's not enough because how much you want to climb a lot like this much uh try like 50 Cent half a meter under your feet oh so long so usually that much yeah well because you're in Easy terrain yeah so you're not stressed in putting a lot of cash of cash rope and it'll just ease your way up because you can climb a long time without without taking care of your rope okay so so what about the feet in that Loop because yeah I can see it happen I could see something like this happening all the time yes if that does exactly as you did it's not a big deal because the Rope will just be around your leg but if if the loop goes under your foot it will stop your movement you can't go higher because the the Rope is not available in the cash Loop okay it will stop your progress all right so you constantly like taming like messing with this thing to keep it from no well usually I use a different I use um Steel quick link okay okay it's a little bit better for cross loading and stuff but this one is good for 12 up to 12 kilonewtons cross-loaded wow and because of your light weight it yes sorry Josh you're lightweight and and so because of that you'll never reach 12 kilonewtons okay and so you're safe basically awesome so you're coming up here too or yes I am but I don't want you to follow me okay yeah will you fall on me I don't know I'm very new to this climbing thing okay yeah I want to use your special your special cam please do all right oh something fell something okay okay good so one of the things I'm thinking about that's kind of funny is there's no there's no yeah there's no like rope drag I have to worry about there's never rope drag when you Rogue solo that's right that's interesting totally so actually when you climb the second half of the Rope up to the end of the Rope it will uh be more comfortable because you have less rope weight with you okay there's no rope drag interesting so like that's kind of interesting because like usually I put a a quick draw there or something but I didn't have to because I'm not worried about the Rope dragging over the rock or anything how far up you want to go uh we do the whole pitch right okay cool oh I don't have the uh evmaritz Metro load card okay I can't see doing this like um anything harder than like I I gotta see you do this on a 511 like you said yeah because over here I could see it's easy to like trim out some some gear uh trim out some rope trying to think about my climbing and words at the same time but I could see myself I had to like give myself some gear from some cash is what you're calling it yeah the cash yeah yeah and after when you do that when you're on good stances right yeah so it's like like here in this type of climbing we're getting good stances all the time yes but on a 511 you're not going to necessarily have a good stance that's right that's right so there's there's multiple ways you can you can make it easier for example if you know your climb is 30 meters exactly you just leave the ground with 30 meters exactly so at the end of The Climb you have just 30 meters pulling on you that's it oh that's much easier but no it's it's a little bit harder to deal with stuff for sure Excuse me while I place a nut in here yep see my rope is back feeding look my rope is so thin it's a half rope oh so it's back feeding so it gives me slack without me wanting any so I'll show you how I prevent that on the next Pro you're putting okay I will uh clip clip the Rope weight couldn't you put another tracks uh yes people do that but it's dumb because if you fall on it it will get stuck and you have to cut the rope in my opinion to release it yeah it'll be stuck like incredibly hard so it's better to use other techniques let's see what you use the you clip with this one yes okay so that that whole back feeding thing yes that only happens when you're clipped above you and but if you fell no no no have you fell down the lead rope look when the lead rope is too heavy and the cash Loop is small until back feed okay so the cash Loops got to be bigger uh if it back speeds yes or you suspend the the lead rope weight how many times does this loot cash fee gets stuck on a corner like this and you go son of a I don't know like you you make it pretty long there you don't need that not that long not that long you told me a couple meters and I'm and I don't know I don't understand under your feet I'm American I don't know what you're talking about yeah same meters man two feet under your feet two feet under my feet now that's easy now that you're using feet that's easy yeah see I speak feet what a nice climb though so look I'll suspend the Rope here so I'll do it for yours and I'll do it for mine or maybe yours you don't need yet but mine I need so I'll do a slip knot here a slip knot slip knot so now it's tied to the ground like fixed it can't go but if I fall it will release the slip knot I see yeah and I I have no more weight this weight is is on the so I can climb without the weight of the Rope so why the locker just because I had a locker okay I have plenty of them okay do you like rope soloing with me so far this is a lot of fun cool this is a lot of fun oh it's like climbing with a little Guardian Angel it tells you how to do it right this looks like really good this looks a little okay look there's there's that much of and you always check your clipping the right rope and that you don't have and that you feel the bottom belay anchor because if that feeds like a lot then you're exposed and you don't even know yeah okay it's all hidden danger I hear you yeah and it starts to slip look okay yeah so so next piece of print so keep the cash Loop Long keep that without okay like this and then the next piece of pro make a slip knot make a slip knot okay gotcha let me get this ledge I can by pulling on the rope I could remove my last slip knot oh okay so if you want to remove the slip knot you could and you want to because otherwise there's a ton of loose in all the slip knots that hidden that's hidden you don't want that loose and then make a huge file because of all the slip knots back yet but usually like two three slip knots per pitches is plenty depends on the length of the pitch but I mean for a full rope I get a piece of gear in here good use up the big cams that way I weigh less my my mic is still uh held on I hope so yeah it looks good yeah looks good good that's a weird placement I'm gonna do another damn I'm gonna try this one like one that's a little bit more in the medium you got you got something you got anything uh I don't I have only carabiners and uh it's final five is up in a second Just Gotta Give me a second to think about where let's use it maybe the screen one might work let's see and I don't like that this feels kind of weird it does loose rock yeah so yeah it you see there's uh probably three feet of back feeding right there oh nice so and that guy he filmed himself from the bottom lead rope soloing and then he looks at this video afterwards and sees a ton of slack at the bottom you didn't even know because doesn't see it so this is a lot of the part of the climbing is people people think it's all about going up but you have to think about just just go here just go a meter more but there's nothing over there as much either though oh maybe maybe I'll get something under here yep I just want to look for something good uh or give me a number uh 0.5 here and I'll clip here you know what I'm just gonna go over here I changed my mind um does it go around this thing yeah go I think you go around this thing it's like five zero well the the thing is that we're protecting for the kids if they want to climb so I want I want one okay so I want around here yeah I won't put anything here then I'll put something around this bush um [Music] I'll put give me a number two here a number two yeah okay and you grab can you grab this rope I'll slide it down the Rope yes just one sec go ahead it's your Lee rope right yeah my lead rope you got it yep okay so you want number two number two number two uh the big big the big cap the blue one the yellow one the yellow one okay yellow is number two now you're speaking my language okay here it comes yep all right okay and I'll I'll do a slip knot for you oh you got that cam in there yep okay I was trying to get the cam in there but it seemed like the cam is too big okay ah yep slip knot done for you cool I'll clip my Roku so I pull my slip knot from here and I do another one a new one okay right the Traverse over is is like yeah I'll do the same as you did now what do you do when it's like time to back clean time to back clean yeah what do you got to do if you run out of gear run out of gear yeah because usually like yeah if you had a tagline you could just yell at somebody to pass your gear yeah so you you basically do uh belay belay anchor and you wrap down from there get some gear and go back up to work okay yep so you could do that with a partner too sometimes okay now what happens if you're pulling on your cash and you realize you got a big old Tangled mess down there with your rope you ever had that happen yet ah it's not often so if you like if you stack the Rope nice and neat you're usually not gonna have a problem exactly for sure see that what I what I would did one time I think you've probably seen my video when I gave it a gave it a try is I just pulled the whole rope up to like this ledge here so yeah yeah you want to do that restack the ropes yeah so if you want to take that time to do it it's really really good to do because then what you have less rope weight oh yeah you have no more rope weight you're starting it's basically you're starting a new pitch without weight at all and uh so I'm pulling on your rope well we have a little bit more of a complication where you uh wow we have we have some booty over here a free cam if you can get it out I'll try I'm probably going to clip it yeah just leave it just leave it don't clip it uh I mean I was gonna clip The Wire I don't know does it look old or not the sling looks old but I'm sure the wire is not I'm pretty sure like some people try to remove it so let's just use it and then leave it and leave it there yeah okay that's cool with me I'm running out of quick draws though I have a couple for you okay what about these you you clip the Rope to the red one so I have a ton of back feed because of the size of my rope how about this do you use the red one for this no no you're good the red one is for the Rope red one's for rope okay yeah don't use a half rope for a grigri like back feeding is horrible yeah what's that's a half rope yeah with the one I'm using is a half rope you got this single proper rope what am I using a nine it's a nine six you have whoever plays Sterling thanks to Sterling whoever placed that uh cam was very tall I can't even reach it okay so I'm just gonna Place Another behind gear yep there's a long here thank you merci beaucoup maybe you can climb two and uh just wait for a very easy placement to to come uh this looks like a really good placement oh no never mind that's not it's flaring ah it's huge it's big yeah you would need a big cam you don't have that yeah how much fried did you climb how much what Trad climbing did you climb in my life yeah a lot okay your cash Loop is getting running empty you need to feed it in I mean I've never tried this is my first time Young never done this try climb yeah yeah it's my first time I knew it looking at the you gauging the sizes of the Crag yeah the cracks yeah no I'm being nasty I'm sorry it's okay if you don't deserve it I'm used to being picked on it's fine it's because I'm short try it now oh you want to clip that yeah because the I know the the uh I don't know how old the uh sling is but I know the wire is not gonna age exactly so I'm just being a little careful sometimes it's like it almost feels more dangerous to play skier sometimes you know you know what I mean like if you have to like hang with one arm in a weird position when you could just climb past it and it's like you just never know what's gonna happen sometimes snake could fall on you or something from from the top or a rock and then all of a sudden you think you didn't need that gear and then all of a sudden you did you do as it is speaking French again there he goes okay Mercy this is America yawn America is America God speak American yep okay what um the fifth on there okay sorry on I am making fun of you beautiful language we have two Traverse to the right way we go on the the face we don't go up this crack no we don't but it's so pretty good oh wait there we Traverse yes but we don't we kind of I got suckers I got suckered into this beautiful yes flowing crack yes okay but we got a we gotta aim right all right if you say so oh oh [Music] I exposure oh it's so exposed yeah you're making the video there I told you rob soloing is not for everybody you're right I'm scared all right and climb up climb up I'm up I thought we were going across yeah well slant go up and right like you're going too much to the right no no no no no no no I'm just gonna turn there's plenty of holes I'll turn around just looking all right ah you're such a cruel task master task master Eon you got quite a run out John I know you're not putting gear for me oh I forgot to put some gear for you I have no gear let's rub all our gear oh yeah you're frightening me why we're not going to fall right we're going to die on yes but not today hey I need to pay out my cash that's what you need to do yes ah have you done this climb before like I don't know more or less a hundred times you've done it 100 times more or less I don't know like uh 10 times Maybe get out of here why do you place Pro there do you see the run out we're having here John you're a very dangerous man Yan I'm sorry I agree I have kids John I'm sorry that's a shitty placement but I'll take it so if if you're going to climb with big runouts you may you'd better make the pieces you clip uh worth it worth it yeah I think it's I think so I think it's good enough I don't know if it would pop or not to be honest I think I think a rock would have to well that's good that's good I think it's good enough and if you can clip my rope also now you want protection oh oh now he wants some protection you just reminded me that there I had kids now do you do you have to put it like now I speak French yeah Eclipse don't leave it leave it just clip this clip clip to the how's the other weight like that is that backflip for you oh yeah it's super bad bad clip that's bad clip oh yeah but if you fell you'd be facing the right way yeah uh unclip it okay uh clip it somewhere okay turn it around okay and clip my rope whoops whoopsie I thought that was I thought that was exactly what I just did yeah okay like this perfect now it's good interesting yeah listeners will understand when they see the video so will you yeah I thought it looked like it was backflip but it looked like that's the kind of way it needs to be backlit because that's the way it would have fell yeah sometimes that's what you feel you backflip and you think that it's the way it should be back clipped if you bat clipped but you should not bad clip I got you oh yeah good good yeah I see we're climbing and that's good you have a cash Loop so you're fine you can continue climbing yeah you don't want your wife to see his videos so we'll we'll go right a little bit you'll see okay it's kind of funny it's like I'm leading but with my belayer which is kind of strange yeah okay now we're going that way yes right how do I remember this climate oh maybe you did not climb it that way ah maybe but I I pretty much always climbed it uh I would have liked to go up the crack and then go across but yeah I guess you're saying it's this way but there is chalk here oh yeah oh we're at a safety knot so this is my half so you have to undo the the knot okay entirely so what happens if you get to this knot yeah and you're on a Crux you're yeah I'm doing this with one hand you fall oh well there's other ways you you can do a slip knot instead but you can just pull and pull out it it yeah it releases right away you don't get all the tricks we go straight up at some point or uh yes pretty much here pretty much here you're you're at the right spot there's plenty of holes all right cool I think we're gonna be running out of gear soon yeah but we're running out of climbing too so we're fine that's true this is not good uh if you got a can that's just a little bit bigger than this one you don't need cams you're a bad bad person yeah I'm sorry man sorry telling your wife trying to I'm making sure your wife my wife will never let me climb again if she saw what you're doing I can't let her watch this episode you're not going to fall well I know I know that I might scare myself right off you ever see anyone Shake themselves right off a climb sorry you ever see anyone like oh yeah right off oh it fall right off the climb before like where there's just like freaking out yeah like no yeah I've never seen it I've seen they get stuff like this like Ledges like this and they just have like this mental yeah like a mental breakdown and they start shaking the legs start shaking it's called uh it's called wimp wall hysteria with involuntary muscle paralysis whoa yeah just like they become like a and it happened to anybody or you feel it coming or I think it happens to non-climbers they're just like they're it's just a completely new they're in a completely new world and their mind can't just can't deal with what they're you know they're they're thinking they're down there they're instead of like here you know yeah so I do another slip knot and so watch out you'll pull on that if it's that's it's good or anything let's hope it's good but please pop out I popped your last slip knot do a slip knot I want to see you it's part of the okay yeah all right so the slip knot would be so you like pull like this in order to get tight to the belay make sure your clip is good because when you pull like that if it pops you're going wow yeah yeah yeah you need to know what you're doing and then so I'm guessing like that yeah because that way this one's the one you pull exactly then you make it tight okay and you make it and what you don't want is this to go there so you make it shorter afterwards oh okay okay yeah I was gonna like that question I thought that's why you were using the locker that's why I thought I was like oh he's using Locker so it doesn't clip in okay that's so that's just good enough to hold it but exactly okay yeah cool and there's there's plenty of tricks that we're not going to cover today and that's why yeah this is you should look at my online course right and do the full thing yeah okay you should have your rope above your knee above my knee instead of behind your leg like this your lead rope no no no no no the opposite oh because I'm going that way yeah yeah oh yeah I don't have my pets for any kind of climbing right right right right I'm not paying attention to my foot rope which is I it's something I always am on about in my videos too because everyone's always falling off with the Rope behind their uh oh yeah behind them you see that happen on the videos awesome every single every single episode has somebody falling off the fail videos yeah someone always has a phone it's falling off because of the rope behind there whatever you know and you see I'm using the ASAP the what the ASAP oh you're using the ASAP ASAP that's what we call an American an American American it's kind of cool this climb because because um you're able to climb over here and I'm able to climb over there but we're on the same climb yes so you picked a good route now I feel like the Rope is between my legs that happens and up my ass I feel like I'm giving myself a wedgie we're making progress that's it I think you might have lied to those poor French people down there yes and they they knew it because they went for another time foreign you're beating me on you're beating me no pressure but climb faster joking uh-huh I don't climb fast when I have 50 foot of rope and Road soloing yeah I hope so if you put a rope this is basically at this point it's just solving solely okay well yeah but we're not going to tell that to the wife I'll go to the top because taking too much time there all right I'm sorry I'm not a fast lead rope Soul was like you young one day they aspire to be one of you you know you know what that means I'm gonna have to put my my 22nd my 20 second climb video together with this just to prove I could climb fast oh yeah anybody can climb fast on top rope yawn that really counts we've done it I don't even know what the point of putting gear down there was it's a complete waste of time we should have just soloed without a rope yeah I mean at this point well it's a very good climb to uh learn how to leave up so long that's for sure he picked the perfect one I think it's even better than three pies yes you've done it no more cash Loop no more climbing and now you can just pull that rope so now we get the view and ah yeah and they're just coming up to here then and then we're going back down you're not going to the top right I don't know we could we I I think my son will want to climb the the top pretty sure all right tell her she could shut the video off I think shut the recording video Sur La camera Josh I'm taking the mic off okay it's really cool yeah hey thanks for sticking around to the end that means you really like climbing so you should subscribe to this channel if you like rope soloing then you should check out yon's channel his all his contacts should be down below we have a Discord on my channel I I sell Merchant stuff we have a whole Community that's growing so join up happy to have you on board Joshua Perry climbing out of here oh

Channel: BetaClimbers

Views: 10,743

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Id: Zq-QoILbbSs

Length: 46min 41sec (2801 seconds)

Published: Tue May 30 2023