Seiko Pogue Restoration

Hello and welcome to My Retro Watches if you're  new to the channel my name is Mike and if you   haven't gathered by now this video is all about  the Seiko Pogue, the first Seiko or the first   automatic watch in space! that's right in space!  hence the reason for the parody of Star Wars   on my intro there I really do hope you  enjoyed that it was a bit of fun to make   so unusually for me I'm filming this the wrong  way around because the intro I'm filming and I've   actually done the project I have the watch on my  arm here now and you're gonna see everything I did   to get this to the condition it's in right now  a few special mentions, there's a guy called   Simon Wilkinson a friend of mine an absolute  wizard at Seiko's and he will service peoples   Seiko's so if you do want to get hold of him i  can pass on his details no problem at all. he   helped me with this by giving me lots of case  parts and parts that I couldn't get hold of   and then there was a guy called Michael Kipp and  he also helped me to get hold of some aftermarket   parts from a guy called Seikosis who's also  on eBay who does the best aftermarket parts.   yes we are using some aftermarket parts oh I  know but wait till you see them because they're   really really good quality and I think you'll  be impressed so for me this is a bit of a grail   watch, it's something I've been aspiring to for  quite a while. Earlier this year another friend   of mine a guy called Ian Margretts who watches the  channel. I bumped into him at a watch fair in the   U.K and he was wearing his original 6139-6005  which is the proper Pogue reference that is   the authentic one not the 6002 which is what I'm  going to be building here by the way. he had the   original one on, I tried it on and I thought wow  this is amazing I really do like it on the wrist   but the price is a bit too high for where I sit  in the market. I tend to like to buy things at   the bottom, and I also like to add value by trying  to work on them I don't like to buy a watch and   put it on the wrist I want to take it apart,  I want to rebuild it, I want to fix problems   or want to restore it. That's where I get my  ,that's where my interest is is is at its heart.so   to actually be able to build my own grail watch  from scratch has been absolutely fantastic for   me I've loved every minute of it so this video  is going to show you everything I did from from   restoring a case right up to fit in the movement  and then obviously showing you all the aftermarket   parts and how the finished look is because it's  absolutely stunning and I hope you will agree   so with that all in mind and that said because  I could talk for ages and I really don't want   to because this video is going to be a long  one I will warn you about that it will be   at least an hour long. Sorry about  that. Another video for an hour, I know!   so let's just cut to the bench and let's just  crack on straight with it. So i do hope you enjoy   it and I'll see you at the end okay so here is the  case guys and I'm a little bit worried about this   it doesn't look too bad and the purists of  course would say to leave well alone but I   do like my case work and as this is going to  have literally a new everything so new dial   bezel bracelet I'd like to improve this case and  the immediate problem is trying to replicate this   circular or this sort of round finish you can  see maybe if I bring it bit closer now a lot   of this is covered by the bezel and I've done  something similar and I've managed to improve it   but it's never absolutely perfect but I want to do  it because there's a lot of dinks and dents around   the edge and that is because obviously it's how  it's been worn. So this side I guess this is a   right-handed person seems to have more blisters  and dents and things on that side than it does   on this I will re-polish the sides try and  get some of the scratches out this is always   a concern for me on Seikos. This nice little  sort of radius whatever you want to call it. And   it's quite difficult to get in there so I tend to  just take that off certainly when i come to polish   with some Kapton tape and concentrate mainly  on that bit at least. This is close to the   skin so you won't see it around here again  there's plenty of scratches as you can see.   So I certainly want to brighten that up if not  remove all of them and it is a really really   time consuming job so I estimate this case might  take me quite a few hours it might be over a few   days of my spare time and finally it's these these  are the hardest parts I think by far so they are   lugs that are supposed to be highly polished and  you run the risk of these because they're flat,   rounding them, and I haven't got a complete  soluton, excuse me I haven't got a complete   solution. I've got a lapping plate which  I may use but the trouble with that   is this part where the bezel sits on is raised  so when you put it on, here's a bit of flat   steel for instance. so when you put it on  at the angle which is somewhere near there   the that bit of the where the bezel goes you run  the risk of it touching and then grinding it off   so a bit of thinking on that one because  that's the bit that i really do need to   improve because ironically that is the  worst part of the case by a long shot so here we are with a bit of an update it's  actually day two i gave up for the night last   night and I've basically roughed it out using the  sticks that you saw briefly in the video there   and mainly it's about I'm trying to think what  coarseness is it's about 400 grit something like   that to start with just trying to see if I can get  this to focus for you so on here I've managed to   remove all the scratches there about obviously I'm  putting scratches in it but they're a bit finer   and on the top I've been filing away I've just  been trialling actually so it does look a bit   better how to replicate the finish there is a few  pits there's one in one of these corners I can't   see which one it is on camera it's just  too deep to get out I'd be there for too   long trying to take it out and I could take the  whole thing out of shape which I don't want to do   but it is remarkably better and then the ends  as well I don't know whether you can see that   with the ends I've got the stick this  is a fine one so it's not very good   but just laid it and held it on the angle where  I'm not touching that it's hard for me to do on   camera here and and filed it like that and  that has got rid of all of the major lines   of scratches what you can see now is  obviously the coarseness of the grain   or the grits that i say those ones are a little  bit better I've still got to get them a lot better   yet before I can polish them because they want  to be polished with the minimum of effort because   I run the risk of rounding the edges off on  this edge I've taken it one step further my   hands are still a bit greasy unfortunately so this  is actually getting quite shiny you can see it now   and what I've done there is I started with the  400 with the sticks and then I've moved by hand   so I've got a little bit here this is a 600  and I've gone from 600 to 800 and then this one   i didn't show it on this one but this is uh  1200 and when you're doing it by hand I've   found because obviously what you want to do is  keep this sharp edge so I've got all the the major   dinks out except for one there was one really big  one which I now can't see in this light but there   is one big one on that side somewhere just there  I think there which I can't get all the way out   but to try and keep the lines because everybody  says oh you know watches get over polished but if   you take your time you should be okay and the  way to keep certainly this top line is uh not   to overlap it so if you've got emery fold it up I  don't really want to do this right this second um   but you know what I mean don't don't overlap the  edges so don't come over here keep it really flat   to it and then that way you're going to keep that  edge presentable I've still got this added problem   of this bit down here now it's going to look a  bit different right now because obviously this is   I've been filing away at this and I've not  touched this at all and I won't really I'll   just polish that at the end and what scratches  are in there the autofocus is struggling here   I'll polish that as best I can at the end you  do run the risk like I say I've been losing this   and I really don't want to so I've done all  that and then I've used i have this special   sponge from Norton and basically it's well it  says there it's a 15 and 1200 to 1500 grit it   actually isn't it's it's uh it's 120 grit paper  but because it's on a sponge you don't apply   the pressure it's really clever stuff and i just  cut it into a little square like that and again   just following those contours and then this  gives it this quite a good shine it doesn't   come through on camera very well but it's a lot  better certainly a lot better than this. so I've   now got to repeat the procedure on this side  so I've got to come down the grits on this side   obviously finish with that to get it  looking as good as that one and then   we're kind of ready for polishing on  those the tops here I might contemplate   lapping i'll try on camera in a bit and see how  we get on so on with the manual scratching again okay so I've been at it for a bit longer and now  again you're not going to see very well because   I've got really greasy fingers but uh all the case  all the sides here are all the same now ready for   polish and I've started on the lugs I'm trying  to see which end I've done these ones as you   can see they're quite shiny and all I've been  doing with that I did contemplate lapping them   but I'm just worried about this rim so  it's just a case of using the sticks and   lining them, difficult for me to do this while  I'm looking at the camera at the same time,   but just line them like that and I'm going  to pass in these over and I've got lots of   different grades these ones come from cousins and  they have some strange numbers on them like zero   uh one g zero sorry three zero and six zero uh  this one's the finest basically so you just keep   coming down and down and down and then hopefully  these should be quite shiny at the end of it   again ready for polishing so I'm  going to continue with that now   and then hopefully we are then ready to like i say  put it on the polisher and move on to the next bit Day three guys and I finished with the sides I've  got them as good as I can already so it's now   ready for polishing so I've covered the areas  i don't want to polish in Kapton tape including   the little lugs at the moment those I'll  probably do with the Dremel at later stage   just to touch up. Certainly i think this  machine as much as this machine is very small   it'd be a bit too vicious for it really and  I've tried to tape off a little bit of that   area there just to try and limit what we might  lose we might not lose any i might be just being   a bit paranoid but we'll soon find out this  is a tiny little machine i got it from Lidl u   it was I think £25 pounds and it's been a great  workhorse for me i use it for lots of different   things uh you've got a taper spindle and i  have experience with some sort of polishing   in the sense that we can sell i sell this  in my day job and this is Menzerna polish   or compound should i say and there's i usually use  four but i don't need to use the fourth because   this is uh past that stage already so we're  just going to go down the different grades   and with each grade I've got a different wheel  so this is a closed it's called a closed stitch   so it's cotton wheel and there are layers to it  but you can't really tell then you've got an open   one for the next as you can see and then the final  one is just really really soft cotton and that's   just from giving it a really nice bright finish  so i'm going to kind of skip through this little   bit I'm going to try and record some of this  and I'll show you the results as we progress Okay with just a couple of minutes if that  passes you can already kind of see that   starting to shine it does sort of look better  than it might appear on camera but i'll keep   going and uh and then obviously do that  side as well and show you that at the end   it's after the first stage this is kind of  what we get again it doesn't really show up   on camera very well but it's really starting to  shine there's a few little bits that I'm a bit   fussy about but I'll have to keep working on those  but now I'll be just to change over on to the next it's as easy as that you'd thread  these on and we're good to go so we now are really getting a good shine but of course it's also  a little bit greasy so I'm just   going to keep going and I think at this  point I'll just show you the end result   so the polishing is complete and i don't want to  show it you until I'm sure everything's okay so   i want to do the brush finish now and I've got  a little method I'm not sure it's going to work   but I'm going to try it anyway so again I've taped  everything it takes absolutely ages to do this   to put all this tape on and cut it with a razor  blade so it's nice and true to the edges sorry my   focus and everything's going crazy and the  plan is to use some Scotchbrite I've got   this Mirka one here and this is a VF  which is very fine but it does leave   some nice marks I always use this maroon one and  I've got this Velcro pad here and the plan will be   to basically put the watch on here and we're  going to rotate and hopefully that will give   the lines that I'm looking to achieve  it's going to be a bit of a trial error   it might go straight away it might take a few  attempts but we'll soon find out won't we. So after just a few turns of that it's so hard  for this camera to actually pick up what I've   done it's really annoying me now actually there  we go so you can just kind of see it there,   it's really nice and symmetrical actually I just  need a bit more passes there you go you can see   it better in that light there what straightaway  happened I'll try and protect where the bezel goes   and it's just taking the captain tape  straight off which is what i thought it would   however I don't think it's going to be that  abrasive that it would have too much detrimental   effect to this I'm only going  to do it a few more times   just to sort of get rid of some of the shiny  bits still and to give it a better brush finish   but overall that is great for just what was that  30 seconds absolutely magnificent really really   pleased there we go so I'm happy now hopefully you  can see that a bit better in the light here now   so it's not as coarse as the original finish  but it's looking pretty nice i think there's   a couple of little marks still that i can't  get out um but i think once the bezel is on   that's going to look really really good so  overall really pleased learned something   new today how to do that finish so excellent  day's work so that is the end of day three welcome to day four and day four is the  rebuild of the movement. The movement is a   6139A however when we eventually get to put  the automatic framework on it'll say it's6139B   because I've had to borrow that part or rather  I've had to find a another part to replace it   because it was missing and I could only find the  B so the B will have to do. So I'm just going   to assemble the movement as best I can and the  best thing to do is to build the motions inside   first and see if we can get it working before  we concentrate on all the other bits pieces   so without further ado I'm just going  to start and assemble it as best I can.   In centre wheel I've already oiled the jewel  because I'm using two cameras here i haven't got   a third for the microscope so you won't get the  usual microscope shots on this one but don't worry   it's nothing you've not seen before  if you're regular to the channel I've just applied some mobius no some Molykote  dx for the barrel arbour on the main plate and the long chronograph wheel   which is the hardest part to find  on these watches should you break it is now going to be fitted carefully and the train bridge is always difficult  on these so I'll try on the microscope dry brush fitted now we can get  some screws in hold it in place okay everything is seated well there now because it's my grail watch I want  to be particularly careful on how I do this   and keep it my best best work I can  really so I now need to fit the click often a screw here that I don't  like sometimes it's nice and   hence the reason using some  peg wood to try and hold it sometimes it's just awful and  it doesn't want to go in at all but there we go click is installed just a touch of D5 so now the ratchet and click or in place put a little  bit of power in the mainspring just to hear it go as you can see there  the wheels are turning quite nicely   it's usually a bit off because you would want  the other bridge on the top for the chronograph   wheel but that's sufficient for me so I need  to let that power run down and then I will start fitting some of the  chronograph works so actually   sorry I will put the pallet fork  in next what am I talking about so now we're going to oil the  exit jewel with Mobius 9415 Okay now it's time to fit the pallet fork So now I'm just putting some Molykote dx onto  the post that's going to hold the crown wheel   the crown wheel is really  important takes a lot of friction   and here it goes normally has a little  washer inside they have to put on   separately but for whatever reason this one  is actually stuck in the ground with itself so I'm now going to fit the coupling  levers these are responsible for   pulling up the clutch on the chronograph wheel  so when you actually stop the chronograph on   this it' wil grab the clutch and it'll  stop the chronograph second hand from   spinning it's a simple operation just like a break  really but equally quite impressive in its design so the coupling levers are held down by this  little screw and it's the only screw with the   shoulder on it and obviously that's just so  you don't over tighten and it just pinches the   two together on the end there and still aids  them to operate i guess without the shoulder   you could over tighten and of course a disaster  which is quite easy to do because there's two   of the screws that look identical to this but  without the shoulder now I'm just bringing in   the hammer as well and that will just sit  on a post and the two flat surfaces that   interact with the hearts one that's going to be  on the chronograph wheel and the other on the   mini recording wheel which is I'm just fitting now   those need to be oiled those flat surfaces so it  operates the hearts effectively for the fly back   so now it's time for the dreaded springs these are  the pusher springs and the first one here which is   quite a long one it goes round along post is the  easier of the two to fit actually it's more scary   because i think it's got more spring power and if  you don't hold it down well enough with some peg   wood or some Rodico you're going to lose this  spring very quickly and very easily as you can   see I'm about to put the tension on and that is  quite a lot of tension but there we go success So the other one is a lot smaller and I  have lost this one not this one on this   movement but one like this before and it sort  of swivels around two posts actually uh which   is quite difficult and then you've  got to bend it and loop it through   onto for whatever better word another post and  again quite tricky you got to hold it down well   and hope that when you release  the peg wood it stays in place okay so the bridge is on and all that's left is  to put the balance on and see if it's gonna run And there we go we have power and  it looks pretty good straight away.   so I'm really really pleased and relieved because  this movement hasn't ran since I've owned it   so there's a minor accomplishment so I'll  screw those in now and take it from there. So here we go the movement is now the Timegrapher  and that is the trace I'm getting after the first   few minutes I haven't regulated it of course I  haven't put the calendar works in or anything   and that is pretty damn good has to be said. Of  course I've only oiled the jewels where necessary   but to see one that it's already got a great  rate and just a little bit of a beat error it's   certainly unusual for me but very pleasing at the  same time. Means the cleaning has done its job and   just minimal tweaks so fantastic no problems  at all really really really pleased. So it's now day five and it's time to fit the  calendar works assembly I would have done this   all in one go but I was working till late last  night on this watch and I don't like working   too late because when you're tired you make  mistakes and I don't want to make a mistake   on my grail watch do I. So I'm going to assemble  the calendar works it's very straightforward on   this one it's just like a Seiko 6119 um so  without further ado let's just crack on. So the first thing is going to be the canon pinion  but to do the canon pinion I just need to put some D5 I like to put a little bit on the jewel there  at the bottom and then just a bit on the side ready to receive the canon pinion Just going to quickly fit the keyless works  the video is slightly running a bit fast now   as well some of this video as you'll now notice  is voice over and some of it's me talking live   just thought I'd mix it up a little bit  makes it easier in editing and certainly   when I'm trying to build as well  where I need to concentrate. and greasing the. hole there where  the setting lever is going to go.   Setting lever takes a bit of punishment  so you want to put plenty of grease   in there and again I think it's  the Molykote DX that I've used so we'll bring in the yoke and that's it you move the setting lever  out the way a bit so it is all lined up and then I can bring in the setting lever spring secured by two screws on this one Now it's time for the big quick set spring   and that will go in it's secured by a screw and  then you have to hook it around the riveted part   that is part of the date quick set  and you'll see me hook that in just a second like so you just bend it and click it in. Now using Mobius 9010 to oil  the little post here that the   wheel's going to sit on that's the drive  wheel for the date change the normal date   change and then I'm also going to  oil the pivot for the mini wheel here's a minute wheel going to put it on its post   and then just make sure that the gears  are meshed with the canon pinion there   got to get that right first time it's  a long strip down if you get that wrong and then it has a little cover so exactly the  same as a Seiko 6119 and the 6106 actually   it's held in by two screws one's really small  got a really small thread on it and the other   one equally small but got a fatter thread on  it don't know why it's like that but it is so on goes the drive wheel and I'll bring in the hour wheel but I don't  actually need to fit the hour wheel just yet   I'll soon realize that and remove it because  I've got to put the little intermediate driving   wheel which drives the date wheel and that  needs to go in first before I put the hour   wheel in. So it's great to do the commentary  over the top now and talk about my mistakes! There we go so now they're all fitted  and we just need to put the what we call   the fingers on. so is the the the date finger  and the day fingers .So a little plastic part   and it's got two posts underneath one post on  the top you always make sure you put the two   down and then you've got the other finger here i  always forget which ones which i think the top one   is the date actually and then that little  that little v shape is where you put the post   and then it's got a screw of course and now  i'm just testing to make sure all the gears   are meshed and winding this part here  is the quick set day lever it just   interferes with the gear underneath the day  wheel to operate that tricks to the trade   here how to get the part in the right position  keep flipping it like a pancake on your bench that's just the date wheel click goes into place  and then i just got to load the spring on it put a little bit of oil there just to help it the usual hold it down with a bit of peg  wood pull it in with the tweezers job done so there's the date ring and now I'm just gonna get it in position  gently hold it with me fingers believe it   or not but obviously I've got my finger cots on  because the part just fitted it's spring-loaded   and i just need to spring that so it loads and  gets into the teeth like so then it's a quick   rush to put the cover on because you don't want  to knock it because you will knock that spring   clean out really quickly so just get the cover  into position there's four screws once or four   screws are in you can breathe a sigh of relief  because it's not going to fall apart at that point so the final piece of the puzzle is the day  ring a day ring has a little gear underneath   it so once you've put it in position like so  you've then just got to use an oiler and push   the spring up to engage with the gear and that's  fitted properly just need to put the c-clip on   once the c-clip is on that is the movement  complete so if you were doing a 619 at this point   all the hard work is done so you can pack  yourself on the back great little simple   movement just checking out there that everything  still works as it should of course it does   job done right guys before we go any  further I just wanted to talk about Seikosis   parts that I've bought these are after-market  parts but they are extremely good quality   and i have no issue buying aftermarket parts i  know this might split decision with certain people   there are always the people on the side  of the fence that original or nothing   and there are people like me who would rather have  a nice looking dial than a really beat up dial   on an old watch and of course I'm trying to make  this on a budget and I'm trying to make the watch   look as new as I can so why not replace what I've  got well I haven't got the original dial anyway so   you know why not do it this way so the quality  is very good I bought the hands here they look   absolutely fantastic of course the second hand  here or the second chrono hand it's got a little   lollipop on the end you cut that off when it comes  to fitting. We have the unobtainable parts such as   the crown the spring the little gear here  which drives the inner rotating bezel and   of course the stem now this here is the  original and this was given to me by Simon   Wilkinson these are almost impossible to get  hold of and this is Seikosis's reproduction   and if there is only one criticism I've got when I  look at these a bit closely the finish on here is   perfect this isn't so round on the end  and when you look a bit closer it is a bit   not as good as this let's say but it is the  crown and that bit is hidden and I guess   if it's going to work it's going to work and  that's fine so I'm not going to lose any sleep   over that but I just thought I'd highlight that  to your attention I've also bought the gasket set   these gaskets quite difficult because they don't  know if that's going to come across on camera they   have a little recess in them where the the glass  goes and I've never been able to get all of these.   The the bezel and the inner rotating bezel  the bezel itself I have an original bezel here   from Simon Wilkinson and of course the one from  Seikosis they are virtually exactly the same and   you know great I've got a new one this watch is  going to look as good I'm trying to make it look   as good as new I'm really really pleased about  that and again the inner rotating bezel is printed   really nicely and is good quality I've also bought  the bracelet he has two forms of bracelet it has   a cheaper version and a heavier version sadly  I didn't buy the heavier one and I wish I had   but then that said this looks absolutely perfect  it really really does it also has the end links   as well so I'm good to go with that also  got a crystal and i got the pushers because   i need the pushes on this because they're  a little bit longer than the normal 6139s   so I would highly recommend Seikosis stuff let's  have a look at the dial for instance the dial is   that is the the most amazing part i think.  I've seen lots of reproduction ones of these   only on the internet not in the real and they're  nowhere near as as nice as this is this has got a   sort of a lovely honey gold colour it is the  70 resist dial and what's not to like about   that you know that sitting on this watch is gonna  look absolutely perfect okay they are expensive   but then why not it is the one thing that you  want looking nice I highly highly recommend you   checking out Seikosis eBay store I will leave a  link below um he does all kinds of Seiko stuff   all different dials from different watches and  of course all the parts and some of the parts   you can't get as well so definitely check him  out you will not be disappointed if you purchase   anything from him honestly and this is a you know  I'm not being sponsored by him or anything at all   I've bought these parts legitimately but i think  he's definitely worthy of a shout out because of   the quality that he's offering here is  better than certainly what I have seen   before so without further ado now we'll continue  and i will get on with attaching the dial   to the movement and then fitting the hands  and eventually casing this watch I'm really   really really excited to see this uh this complete  I'm also a little bit nervous because the uh   trying to fit this stem and star gear is going to  be a little bit tricky but we'll get through it so I've already fitted the movement ring  this has a movement ring which is metal this   bit that goes around it again a very difficult  part to obtain however I've managed to get one   and that of course will then be  able to secure this beautiful dial   so that's going to sit on there I need to  tighten up the dial screws so there we go   the dial is fitted and it looks absolutely  wonderful if you ask me now I've got to fit the   hands so I've just wound the crown till the date  changes so I can fit the hour and the minute hand okay the chrono hands are fitted and I'm  not completely happy this is always been my   nemesis on these I haven't done that many 6309s  but every time I do I always always struggle   you have to put these on with quite a bit of force  and I was hoping because these were new hands   that they would fit a little  bit better long story short is   the pivot that this sits on is a square shape  and you push it into the round hole of the second   hand and that creates a key which binds it and  holds it in place because fly back can be quite   a lot of force and obviously it can uh go past 12  which is undesirable so i used some Rodico here   and i pushed it on and it sort of stays at 12.  similar with the sub seconds but the sub seconds   is just a touch off and it's really drove me  crazy I've had it on and off a few times but   it seems to always want to go into that position  so I'm a bit stuck with that one at the moment   a little bit disappointed but you live and die  by the sword and I'm always honest in my videos   um I'll try and demonstrate a little bit  now we can start that off give it 10 seconds stop the chronograph fly back   and it's not too bad on the 12. let's just lift  that up hopefully you can see it's like like a a   second off which is just well it's enough to drive  you crazy isn't it let's face it especially if the   sub sequences are going to be a little bit off as  well i don't know what to do at this stage I'm for   the for the sake of the build i think I'll just  continue to build and i may come back with fresh   eyes and just see if i can tweak those at a later  date because it will drive me a little bit crazy   but i don't want to do too much at the  same time because i don't want to risk   damaging that dial either so oh the dilemmas  the dilemmas of watchmaking crazy um so I'm   going to call it a day for now and you'll catch  me on another day when we continue this build it is now day six and you now see  that the watch is in its case and   this is in preparation for fitting the  inner bezel and the crystal off camera   earlier on today I've managed to get  their hands on a little bit better   hands on the 6139 always been a problem for  me it's sort of documented in the Facebook   group how much i don't like lining these things  up and uh there we go I've managed once in my   life to get them a bit better than normal so I'm  really really pleased with that so the cases on   these or certainly this the dial side here is  quite complex there's a lot of parts to go in   we of course got the bezel we have i don't really  want to touch the crystal I've cleaned it we have   the crystal we have uh the gasket ring the gasket  itself the inner rotating bezel and a little   spring as well so quite a lot of things to get in  and line up properly however i did find one thing   so if you remember here is the original bezel and  i said that this one from Seikosis is absolutely   identical well it is it's really good in the  way it looks however there's one floor and that   floor is if you need to take this one off and I do  wonder whether I might have to take it off because   am I going to get it completely lined  up first time that is the question   but on the original if we turn it over  I'm just going to take the outer focus   there we go so you should see that  there there's a little cut away   on the original there wasn't and I've had to make  one fortunately I've got a little sanding machine   just trying to get in the light for you there you  go so there's my adaptation not as perfect as the   Seiko ones but it's going to be good enough should  I need to get a knife under it because without   that i would assume getting this off would be  quite a struggle it could mark the nice case that   I've done and equally you could end up scratching  this as well so it's important for me to try   and get this on perfect first time of course  but that is my little bit of insurance there So we start with the spring this is a really  thin spring I'm lucky to have that part   again the generosity of Simon Wilkinson  is unbound giving me the unobtainable   parts and the spring is going to sit in there I  know I haven't got it seated correctly because   I'm on camera and of course when you're on  camera nothing ever goes the way it should   so once that is in we need to then  put the um in a rotating bezel in and that should literally as I just  showed there just dropped straight in and if it's incorrectly then it should have a little bit of a spring to  it I don't know whether that's coming through of course that's what that spring is for I'm  not so worried about lining this up because   eventually of course that will be lined up  properly with the um when the stems fitted   so then we need i don't know  what you would call this   it's a another ring and it's what the  gasket will sit on and that will fit in like   and then we've got the gasket itself i have to  make sure that the gasket is clean which it is and   it has a sort of recess i don't know what you'd  want to call it how the gasket will sit on it   how the crystal will sit on it inside the inner  ring there and butting up against the outside   and then of course we've got the crystal now  the crystal to fit I'm not really going to   do this on camera very well I've cleaned it  I'm going to drop it on using a bit of Rodico   but what I need to look at and I'm not sure  this is going to come through on camera   is looking at the seal itself or the gasket itself  and making sure that the lip of the gasket is all   the way around the outside edge of the crystal  because of course if it's not and when we apply   the pressure with the watch press it's going  to pinch the crystal and it's not going to sit   right at all so I'm going to do that now make sure  that that's lined up properly before we move on   so i don't know whether this idea is going  to work but I've got it kind of lined up   as best i can and I'll just use a little  bit of masking tape now I've not tried to   press too hard on the sides in case when i  use the watch press it's going to pinch it   but I'm hoping that might just hold it in place  enough that when we come to press it on that it's   going to stay so really wish me look at this  stage because I'm pretty damn nervous at this point I'll tell you what guys that was blooming  nerve-wracking absolutely nerve-wracking   i never like fitting crystals there's always a  worry that you're going to go disastrously wrong   this is the first watch I think that I've ever  had to fit with the actual movement inside and   the dialogue showing which gives it even more  of a risk equally I was expecting to hear a big   click and I didn't hear a big click at all I've  had to sort of go round a bit with the press   but it has gone down and it does seem to have  stayed in the position that I wanted it to   so I'm absolutely thrilled to bits right now  and as you can see this thing is already looking   absolutely fantastic I'll let the secret away  now I've had to do the case back I couldn't live   with it yes it does look a bit over polished  with the you see it rounding off at the uh   the anchor points there to take the the case back  off but you know it was better than the scratched   face that it was so all I've got to do  now is the last job and that is to fit the   crown and the stem with the  little spring and the little gear   and that's going to be an interesting job because  I've got to try and first of all work out how long   the stem needs to be and that is literally trial  and error so I can't really film that too much   because I'm just going to be trimming away putting  it back in trimming it away putting it back in   until eventually I get it into the  right position it's a real faff   I'm sure there's a way to measure these things  and do them properly but I don't know that yet   and so hopefully I'll show a little bit of that  but yeah that's all I can say on it really I'll   show you a little bit of that probably at the end  it's not the job that I've been looking forward to   along with fit in the hands this was my other main  concern so leaving the best till last day great stuff you well what fun I have just had I've just struggled  to get the stem and I finally got it right and   it's sitting nice and flush or reasonably flush  with the case I probably could get a little   fraction more actually but when I  went to move the inner rotating bezel   which now works it didn't work and it really drove  me crazy because I couldn't understand why that   wouldn't be working and it turned out that if you  remember right at the beginning of casing I put   in that little spring first before I put on the in  a rotating bezel well from process of elimination   it seems that to put in the inner rotating  bezel first and then put the spring on the   top it'll then work without that it doesn't work  at all and so basically I had to take all of the   bezel off and strip it right back down again and  start again which was blooming infuriating um but   there you go I should really have read the case  in manual first or at least ask some of my friends   but I kind of figured that it must sit under  there but obviously it doesn't so I'm really   really pleased now that you know when I pick it up  here I can get that bezel working so the crown is   fine it's going to unscrew itself a little bit at  the moment because I need to put some some thread   locker on it so I'll put the pushers back in and  then we are done other than putting the bracelet   on so I am absolutely jumping for joy now that  was a real nightmare of a little problem but   other than that it's been pretty good and look  at it look at it it looks brilliant so I'm really   really really pleased so hopefully the next shots  you're going to see are of this finished watch So I just forgot to say that I needed to fit the  automatic framework which I will do now anyway   but just if anyone's out there and  watching and perhaps they've got a 6319a   framework piece like this and maybe they need a  6139b uh then I'd be keen to do a swap I'd love   to have the actual right part for the right  movement just for the the whole authenticity   of that particular movement so I'm going to  put these in anyway i put the rotor back on   but i just thought I'll just quickly  mention that while I've got an audience   so so hello and thanks for sticking around to the end of  the video I do hope you enjoyed it and realized it   was a long one which is my videos always seem to  be long nowadays but it's just the way it seems to   go. You know building my dream watch has been  a dream come true in many respects to be able   to do it from scratch rather than just buy it as  has been a real achievement for me and I hope you   enjoyed watching me do that. So I'd love to hear  your thoughts what do you think do you like the   look of it do you think I've done a good job are  you offended by the aftermarket parts for instance   there's a great argument for aftermarket being  fake if you like and everything has to be original   and i sit, sort of in between there ,I mean I  like the fact that you can buy aftermarket parts   because the genuine stuff just isn't always  available and if it is it's going to be really   really expensive certainly for something like this  I'm definitely never going to sell this watch it's   never going to be passed off on eBay for instance  as a genuine Seiko Pogue and touchdown this is   what it's like from new no that's not what I'm all  about you know I've done I've created something   and that's what I think aftermarket parts  are for there for there because you can't   get the originals or you want to make  it look a bit better aesthetically   and what is the harm in that the only harm is  if you're trying to be deceptive so i would   hope that none of you out there are out there to  do that that would be terrible but you've seen   what the look of this is really like  i say i really do hope you enjoy it   i think the aftermarket parts are great plus the  work that I've done sets it off really really well   so once again I have to really thank especially  Mr Simon Wilkinson he's a great friend of mine   and without him this would not have been possible  at all. All I ever had was a Seiko 6139 movement   that's all I'd got and the dream was to build this  Pogue and it's happened through the generosity of   people that i know in the community certainly in  the Facebook group without that this would not   be happening at all so it was really really good  of Simon to come to the table for Michael Kipp to   help me find Seikosis and do a deal with him for  the parts of course there'll be links to his eBay   down below because he deserves your attention if  you are looking to do something similar as well   so please leave all your comments below I'm  going to read every single one of them and   I'll try and reply to as many as i can. Tell me  your thoughts did you like it, don't you like it?   give me a thumbs up if you do because that really  does help the algorithm and helps to grow my   channel and stick around because there's going to  be some new content coming very soon I've got some   hopefully got some interesting watches coming so  you know thanks very much as always and there's   my Pogue you know life is complete for me right  now so I'll see you in the next video thank you

Channel: My Retro Watches

Views: 41,598

Rating: 4.8955765 out of 5

Keywords: mark lovick, watch repair channel, seiko, vintage seiko, watches used in space, red dead restoration, seiko pogue, william pogue, space watch, first watch in space, first seiko in space, nekkid watchmaker, vintage seiko pogue, seiko pogue chrono, seiko pogue history, watches in space, vintage seiko chronograph, watch repairs, watch service, watch repair, col.pogue

Id: YHRvpCgtY-A

Length: 68min 12sec (4092 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 04 2020