Scrub Plane, Grinding, Sharpening and Using with Rob Cosman

hi I'm Rob Gosselin welcome to my shop I was recently teaching a class woodworking fundamentals and when it came time to dimensioning the lumber I realized I don't think I've ever done this on a YouTube video so what I'm gonna do is walk you through the process of using a scrub plane but first we're gonna actually grind a primary bevel on it then we're gonna sharpen it and then I'll show you how how I think it's very effective when it comes to moving a lot of stuff quickly so if you've got a piece of lumber like this which is probably the best part of an inch and a half and thickness it is it's a piece of northern white pine and you wanted to get 3/4 of it as let's say you wanted to get an inch out of it well your most stable and your best bet is to take an inch right out of the middle so what we're looking at would be this that center section there's no guarantees obviously but if you took all the material if you took a half an inch off one side of the other you're almost guaranteed to be something get something it's not going to be stable so we got to move a lot of stock now I'm doing that with a regular bench plane will take a lot of strokes so instead I'm gonna bring my trusty scrub plane in to work now this is the 40 and a half or a remake of it and this is the stanley number 40 now this was considerably smaller I don't know there's a junior version or what but you can still get them on in garage sales and eBay this one I actually bought but doesn't of a blades I've got to get a blade made for it this is what I'm going to use and this was made by wood craft it was their pinnacle brand they no longer have it there's the blade it's fairly heavy I think it's 3/16 of an inch thick and it has its bevel down so we're going to regrind the primary bevel so I'll take you over here to the grinder what we want to do is set the tool rest to essentially match what was already on there this is looks to be about a thirty degree bevel but if I had my choice and I have the time I would probably crying that back down to 25 degrees then when you're doing your secondary bevel you're not so likely to get up above 45 degrees which would then make it so that you couldn't function in the plane so I'm matching the bevel now it's got a radius on the end and I check that with a compass there are a pair of dividers and that's approximately a measure that to be not quite two and three quarters of an inch yeah with your quarter inch radius and it's there's nothing sacred about what all you're gonna do is you want to keep the radius tangent to the wheel so I'm gonna pivot from back to somewhere every time you sharpening the stone you're going to end up increasing that secondary level the hidden mean here 70 more mature than you need to I think a look and see what's going on that's fairly close that made it a little bit more cute than it was but you can pivot in from somewhere back here only thing you don't want to do in your grinding now this is a Wolverine grinding jig and it's an add-on but what I like so much about it is it's a good rock solid it'll attach to any bench grinder see this big thick plates a quarter of an inch thick Hey a little bit left that's fine there's no reason to take all of it off all right now we'll come over here to our 1,000 grit stone I sprinted I used hone right just because it inhibits rust so with a nice big wide primary bevel like that it's real easy to find so locate it and what we want to do is we're just gonna do little circles but we're gonna start in this corner and we're gonna roll around so while I'm doing these little circles I'm going to go like this and roll around get to this side and then come back feel for a burr once I get a bird I'm done so starting on this right hand corner if you'll find the primary bevel come up just a little bit and start little circles and while I'm doing these little circles and by the way the way I hold the blade try to get three fingers out there to distribute the pressure evenly across the edge I always like to tie my two hands together so I'm squeezing my right thumb between my left index finger and my left thumb that just helps the two to work together so I'm back to finding my primary come over to the corner however just roll it over come up just a little bit so you can get off of that primary bevel and then as I'm doing this and you can walk around various areas of the stones that you're not putting a lot of use in one spot okay now back over to this corner and then I'm gonna come back feel for a burr okay I've got a burr all the way so now all I'm gonna do is lay this over I don't use the ruler trick on this you can't you'd end up with a little flat spot right there and if you're not familiar with the ruler trick that's the David charlesworth ruler trick where you put a steel rule on the edge of a stone like that and you lay the blade on its back so that you're just polishing a little bit tiny strip something we call it back bevel but you can't do that with a scrub plane because of the radius so you treat it like you do a chisel I always like to set the back down first up here and drop it down and then just a couple of strokes to remove any burn like I said this is think of this more of an axe hand plane that's used to go in and just rapidly remove stock now make sure that this is held firmly in place this tends to be fairly aggressive I've got my I've got my guide over here I'm not gonna do the whole thing but I'll just give you a quick rundown how you do it take the needle cap off put the blade in place now I like to hold it like this with my fingers there's no advance and retract mechanism on this simply slip the lever cap in and snug that up now I'm gonna site that down the sole I can't see the blade yet so I like to do it like this when I release the pressure a lever cap I can just slide it with my index finger and thumb gives me a little bit of control now that's not enough bring it a little bit further okay now I'm gonna show you that see where the blade is try to keep it centered there's there's a lot of room the blade is not nearly as wide as the opening there's a big open throat you can get shavings out now if this is straight grain you can simply push if it was tearing then I would go I can go on a diagonal I'm gonna bring that blade out a little more cuz like it's fairly easy planing and I want to show you how fast we can move stock you can also pull this take even more alright let me show you where that blade is you see that okay we're gonna get behind that I had to go in on a diagonal but I'm using this bucket down here and eyeball it and just do the best I can to get it close actually I'm already down to the line so I don't have any more to remove retract the blade a little bit and then go in and refine this now I go in with my jointer axes but I would use fairly heavy cut get rid of all the imperfections caused by the scrub plane but you can move a lot of stock a heck of a lot easier and quicker to the scrub plane then you can with your joinery jack that's it not expensive great tool good exercise to see yeah

Channel: RobCosman.com

Views: 17,291

Rating: 4.9331741 out of 5

Keywords: rob cosman, woodworking, hand tools, scrub plane, grinding, free hand sharpening, trend diamond plate, wood, tools, woodwork, cabinetmaking, furnituremaking

Id: LLlo9JJqtYY

Length: 9min 54sec (594 seconds)

Published: Tue May 01 2018