Hand Plane Wide Boards

hi I'm Rob Cosman welcome to my shop in our last video we took this big piece of pine made the bottom fly use thickness planer to bring it down to thickness the idea was how do you increase the capacity of your thickness planer if you don't have a jointer a power jointer that's the same width whatever you do the bottom ends up happening to the top if you just simply send it through a thickness planer so now that we've got it flat parallel top and bottom but it still has mill marks of a thickness planer so somebody at can you demonstrate planing of white board with a hand plane so that's what we'll do the first thing I want to walk you through is how I prepare the blade now I have a good friend in England David Charles versa David does is a little bit differently and we we agree to differ he uses what's called a hammer so he'll take his blade and put a very slight radius on it I prefer the method that's taught by Ian Kirby where you have your blade straight from corner to corner but you feather off the two outside corners ever so slightly both work I just haven't liked mine better okay so the first thing I'm going to do I use two stones my diamond my trend diamond plate which has a three hundred grit side and a 1000 grit side and I use as a finishing stone like sixteen thousand shopkins so before I sharpen I come over use the three hundred grit side it takes a few seconds to bring us back to being flap remember this one wears and has to be maintained and I'm using a product called foam right the bottle of it right there that little bottle makes six liters or gallon and a half and it inhibits water from rusting metal no it doesn't absolutely prevent it leave it laying in it in a puddle of hone right you may end up with rust the next day but it would certainly dry on there without ever creating any rest okay so the first thing we're going to do is come over here to our 1000 grit stone reference the blade on the primary bevel that's that 25 degree main level raise it up a few degrees off of that spend about 10 seconds doing these little circles and I hold the blade on an angle so that when I'm doing this I'm on the blade on the yes tone the entire time also you want to mean in a second just let me get through yes I want to pick up a burr but it's not quite definite so we're not done simply that it's not running corner to corner yet it'll go a little bit further okay now I have a burr corn in the corner I don't hold my blade like this because in doing these circles you'd be off the stone part of the time I hope my blade like this so I'm doing the circle and I stay on the stone you can excuse me now that I got a bit of a burr I'll come over here to my 16,000 stone I'm going to do the same thing except I'm going to raise up another couple of degrees so if I came up three or four degrees off of the primary bevel on that first stone on this one I'm going to come up four or five degrees so locate your primary and something dirt in there or something locate your primary come up a little bit higher same thing ten seconds of work three four five seven eight nine ten now without stopping or changing or doing anything I simply push down on one corner for three seconds then I'm going to push down on the opposite corner using the pinky on my left hand for three seconds and what that does is create a little feathering in those outside corners now when you're doing it freehand especially when you're new at it you may get one you may not get the other and the reason why I said not to stop or change or do anything different is because what frequently happens is that the folks will stop reposition and then they end up dropping down and they're actually touching the heel as opposed to the tip or the toe of the blade now as a final step I'll use as I mentioned the Charles River will attract hold that in place set the blade on there stay within a quarter of an inch of the opposite edge and just a few seconds to remove any birth that was David Charles worth contribution to the art of cleaning and I would go down to saying it is probably the biggest contribution certainly in the last I think you can say a hundred years and if you don't do if you've never tried it is the biggest single time-saver and guarantee R of a great edge it can be such a thing that you will find put your tip breaker on pull it back slide it over now get it to it the end about a 32nd went into the edge dug that up good and tight I'm trying to cover all the bases here just in case you're doing this for the first time three points of contact when you put your blade and chip breaker in the back of the blade laying flat on the face of frogs you don't want any debris in there the yoke this thing right here has to pass through the blade and make it into this one rectangular hole the chip breaker that's how you advance and retract the blade and this lateral just believer has a bearing on the end and that bearing has to fit in this long slot on the blade and that's how you skew the blade now this is critical because part of getting this surface perfect is getting that blade absolutely parallel to the sole so you're not having one corner or the other digging in and leaving what we would call a playing track set that in place and I just kind of tap it to make sure it sounds like it's sitting the flat sometimes that little lateral adjustment leaver that bearing doesn't quite sit in there and you've got to do a little bit of coaxing now I like to take a light colored background site down the sole bike one way slice down the sole now the blade is sticking up higher on the left side than the right so I'm going to take the lateral just believer and I'm going to push it toward that high side and I'll do that until it appears to be parallel at which point I like to pull the blade all the way in so that it's not exposed at all and that's the way I prefer to start planing take a little bit of wax that's just there to reduce the friction so that your effort has been pushing the blade through the wood instead of pushing the pushing the plane over now before we're getting further that's dog this down just until some sliding around on me now this is a wide board and it's a little bit awkward planing way out of here as you'll see but we have to do it now I like to just drag those dogs down pull that nice and flat to the table now we've got a little bit of snipe right here and right here so we're going to work through that but the first thing I'm going to do now you'll notice I'm also going to hold my plane on an angle because if I were to plane this way I'm only reading a swap that wide but if I hold my plane like that I'm now reading a swap that wide and it makes it a lot easier to end up with this board being flat so as I'm planing I'm going to start spinning the adjuster knob and I want to watch to see where the first bit of shaving consumes it seems to be favoring the left side so I'm going to just a very slight and by the way when I do this instead of taking that and just pushing it I grab one side of the blade with my thumb index finger in the lateral just believer and just kind of squeeze and I find you get a little more control we're talking about moving a very small amount literally measures in parts from a thousand thousand side is pardon my cold still a little heavy on the still heavy on the left side a little bit more bring them later a little bit more okay now that seems to be uniform now that sickness planar leaves little scalloped marks as a result of a circular cutter get so when you first start planing you're just going to be taking the tops of those off so I don't expect to get a full wage dating yet now with each pass I have to overlap the previous one I should have started on a nice narrow board all right this is time so I can take a little heavier I can take a much heavier cut I'm going to advance that blade appear a bit let's see if I can't get the point room springing up a full wood shavings a little sooner so just to show you how it's like time flies that first pass was right about here so the next one needs to be from there to there and then the next one would be from there to there and we just work our way across I'm going to burn the blade or even more I want to get rid of that night disk written again now many people prefer to lift the plane up and then set it back down time I don't I hear all kinds of stories about algebra prematurely bang sharpen in under 30 seconds so all off to the convenience of not having to lift this thing up 500 times or a job like this nice TV with the plane by the way great stuff to practice on now occasionally I'll stop and I'll use the edge of my plane like this to identify if I'm keeping that flatter than that taking too much off of one side of the other I do this in high edges so this half here now that snipe has disappeared over here but there's still some there pretty much the others a little bit over here too until I get rid of all the third 50-pack I'm not going to worry too much about plane tracks meaning the corners of the blade he hit I don't want to be extremely off at this stage but I'll get a lot of puff here once I bring this all down to 1 1 plane now that's closer now we can pay attention to the fire setting I'm going to Lake down here again and see if I can't notice bubbly it's still a little bit high on that stubborn left side more whacked pull the blade in a little bit I'm using a number six I could be using a number seven jointer this one-day teenager glog of a warplane there's a number seven it's 22 number 8 to 24 my climate app is missing it's 14 like my smoother you got to 10 that's the safety belt win on our compressor I want to show you what we're looking for here's an ideal shaving see how it tapers off to nothing on both edges uniform thickness throughout the middle but nothing on both edges that allows you to overlap and not be able to see them if your shavings are coming up find one with a very hard-to-find edge you know something like that then you're probably going to leave a plain track now this may have been over here on the edge but that would be the same situation if you didn't have those edges fitted all right so just keep best overlapping each one I can run my hand across the board just feel where previous fasteners that feels pretty good I thought it a little bit back you know that's a little bit of Terran caring that's that's close so I'm going to pull the blade in that little effect of the feathering of the edges works even better with a very very light path meaning the blades retracted so that if you were to look at you could see it and you could look down there you would see nothing then the blade would still gradually appear you see the blade all the way across and then would gradually disappear but that's only going to be in effect when you have a really really light set okay feels good I don't see any blatant gouges I could probably improve that a little bit down here I skipped a couple of times meaning when I first started the plane didn't engage right away so I might take one more if you're really new to this at this stage all my weight is here it's a blade engage and then when I get out here all the weights back here so that the plane doesn't nosedive off the end at this point both hands are kind of pushing down and forward part that most people struggle with is the very beginning when they do start the blade picks up or hits that resistance with meeting the wood and you give it that extra quick to get it started in doing so you upset your mouth cause the plane to jump it settles down in here somewhere the blade starts to climbing engaged and then you end up acting with the taper to the board because you're high here lower than the rest of it okay Holly well enough alone I can do a final check this F is really soft so even possible the part of the plane will leave a market so I'm being careful that looks good this is going to end up being a charity or a bench seat so I'm going to do something about this crack and here on to take a more than Austin that's a simple lesson in planning a white panel like I said reaching out over there is difficult but we've got a good really good dish sharp blade it's surprising how little resistance or effort is required in order to take a full with shaving hope you enjoyed this see you again

Channel: RobCosman.com

Views: 105,635

Rating: 4.9489794 out of 5

Keywords: rob cosman, woodworking, hand planes, hand planing, pine, wood, cabinetmaking, furnituremaking, david charlesworth, ruler trick, woodriver, foreplane, dovetails, hand tools, shavings, flatening a board, hand plane a board

Id: y5x65dj03C8

Length: 16min 38sec (998 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 03 2017