Saving a sunk Honda BF40 outboard motor

hey there dang that's true here today's videos on finally having the new motor for the green machine now I say new motor but it's actually a new motor you know new to me I was looking to buy a brand new motor because I know I hopped on for quite a while about really needing the reliability so this decisions perhaps slightly contrary to that idea but it was too good a deal to pass up new motors in Australia run around about they all seem very commonly would be about eight thousand eight hundred and I was about eight knife grand short so I figure you know you make do this motor the storm that the green machine got damaged in the boat this motor was on sank so we're starting from a pretty unreliable point but the motors 2004 so it's not that old really so even though 2004 is what twelve years ago now so it's twelve years old it's only done about 300 hours so that's that's not too bad I think mostly it suffered from corrosion like all things do sitting in salt water for 12 years but internally I'm expecting it to be pretty sound so I won't keep you waiting any longer I'll show you what we've got here so 2004 it's a 40 horsepower so a little bit less power than I was hoping but I think 40 will still be enough 40 Honda four-stroke so I'll give you a closer look and I'll show you around so I went and got it yesterday from the mechanic that had taken it off the boat that I went to in the boat sink and picked it up grabbed a few things it's in a few pieces all the controls and things are lying around so there's the forward control unit so I'll be taking that apart and cleaning it out today I focused a bit on the motor yesterday so I didn't get a chance to film that you can see a few sections like in here have got quite rusty but that's pretty quick to replace the cow lower cowling was full of river mud from the bottom of the river from its little troupe so that was pretty bad so I actually so first thing did was take the carburetors off and I went and cleaned those on the bench done videos and that was pretty straightforward they didn't look too bad they definitely had water in them but you know they were okay so I took those off then I actually plugged the inlet manifold with some rags and then go need the whole thing with fresh water so it was actually quite muddy the whole motor and now it's not too bad so I even actually got guide in and going it all the electrics and everything I know it seems produced rain but it came up quite nicely then I just connect a little plugs put some wd-40 in all the plugs fuses the main wiring loom connector all this kind of thing so it's much clean now I also drain the sump oil which wasn't too bad it was black was old but it didn't seem that emulsified I've been told this motor has run since it sank so that's a good thing this is now a new oil filter if you happen to have one of these motors that's a z4 3:6 which I've put as a substitute for the Honda one that was on there bit cheaper easier to get spark plugs in you not that they would have suffered much from the sinking but I figure while I'm here this is the fuel filter I've taken out this fuel filter I believe is also commonly available at auto stores so I'm going to go and grab one of those and when I get back I'll tell you what the part number is on that too in case you're looking to get aftermarket fuel filters for your Honda I also had the flywheel cover off before and it turns over quite easily by hand so it's not even close to see so I'm not worried about that I put a grease gun and all the grease nipples the tilt tube still feels reasonably smooth for its age even though there's quite a bit of rust up under here that's probably the weakest link of this whole thing and unfortunately it's a very hard part to get to to replace yeah it's you know it's an afternoon but it's not not straightforward so I think I'll let that sit for a while see how long it lasts so my goal for the day is to open the control unit up clean that out with some fresh and lubricated I'm going to put the control cables on the air compressor and do that technique of using the air compressor to push oil through it to make sure we displace any water and make sure they don't seize up over time so I'll let those sit while I'm working on other things over here is the gearbox somewhere you've oxq monks not want to miss okay here we go sorry so here's the gearbox for it the water pump had been taken apart by the mechanic who looked at it not sure why but I'll put that back together I look at the impeller the prop looks pretty new so I'm kind of happy with that and then I'll test all that water pump put that back on so the other job for today is to take the starter motor off pull it apart and lubricate that so pull it apart clean it lubricate it get any water out so I don't have a fuel tank for this so I'm going to make up a Honda fuel line connect it to my old petrol tank and then we'll be getting close to firing up and see if it runs so here's the wiring loom to all the plugs for the forward control end actually all look pretty good there's a bit of this sort of green corrosion on the outboard end so I'll get in there with a bit of sandpaper and sort of gently clean that up and then put some more wd-40 on I'm protected but other than that the Loom seems reasonably serviceable ah here's what's not though that's the tack oh nice I decided to start this repair by lubricating the waterlogged control cables just going to whine these ends off to make it easier to fit into the hose might disassemble them completely actually I'll take the nut off and both the rubber grommets if you do a lot of work with hose clamps these little 8 mil hex flex tools are great for hose clamps much better than screwdriver just bit of oil down it just going to keep going to the hoses full and pop the air compressor on that was leaking a fair bit here because I think I had it too far down it was around a hex shaped part of the hose so moved it up to where it's round hopefully it'll seal better I don't know if you can see on camera there that quite a bit of water came out the other end when I first put the air on some place that's out these are the sorts of things you get with some posts I've actually worked reasonably well but if you don't go and do these extra jobs it will start failing down the track the goal here is to actually fix this up well enough that it stays running nicely for a few years to come at least all right that's better it's leaking a little bit no it's not it's actually coming out of this end so there we go and if we can see anything yet that's actually the air coming right through the other end so the plans very much like the other video I did is just to push that oil right from that hose through the other end then I'm pretty confident these will keep going for a long time you can see down here now I actually got distracted the snap-on truck turned up and all this oil had made it all the way through you can see a bit of water and a few patches of the oil but I'm pretty comfortable now that that cable yeah moves really moves really freely now so pretty comfortable that cables going to go the distance I'll swap the hose over to the other cable and we'll push on like the other cable a bit of water came out straight away so I'm just going to leave that sitting until the oil comes through from the other end I'm going to put these carburetors back on now they're just resting here at the moment and I've got to put the airbox silencer on they're a little bit fiddly to get back together because all the fuel lines will go around the back of them and there's some vacuum lines and things around there too but fortunately I did manage to get a manual for this pretty easily so this manual I got from I think read manuals calm again I tend to get quite a few there and I think I was like $26 or something so pretty good so it's obviously a PDF version which you download straight away which is nice as well and I just printed off the section for the carburetors so I'll get those back together I'm not going to go into that in any huge detail I just want to try and get this motor started but I will try and give you an overview of the things I'm doing to this motor to help it sort of recover and from it's sinking and hopefully have quite a long life but I was really happy to know that I can get a service manual for this easily definitely take one of the big boxes for me when it came to choosing an outboard just a bit of an update on this second cable I don't know if that all oils air rated or emulsified the delicious making it all the way through now so either way I'm happy this cable is going to survive as well so I just stuck down to order one - look one of these fuel filters and it turns out the one that matches is a I've got a cooper one which was a wz one nine eight and it seems pretty much an exact match for it so that's good and that was $10 not sure what Honda charge but at least it was easy to get and was in stock it is labeled with an arrow this one so the inlet is the part with the little crescent here one thing I do really like about this outboard is I'm not seeing any evidence of previous dodgy fixes the old Yamaha on the green machine had just been hacked so many times in the past so it's nice to see the prior to its sinking this probably had a reasonably good life new fuel filters in there so new fuel filter new oil filter now I'm going to start putting these Cubs back on I've now got the carburetors back on and they were a little bit fiddly to be honest those vacuum lines behind I sort of managed to get on with some long nose pliers and then as you push the carburetors on they sort of go further down the tubes they're supposed to slot over which is nice there's a couple of bolts on this air in airbox there's the two Center ones closest to the block you need to get those on before you put the carburetors on because you can't there's no room to slop them in afterwards so made that mistake and that's all right now and then also just this throttle cam linkages got a couple of Springs and a few fiddly bits but it seems to be working and it looks like it pushes the diaphragm for the accelerator pump and everything so I think that's going to be alright next thing I do is take the start motor off so I'll have a look at it if it looks ok I'll run with it if it looks really bad and might order another one because it's a 300 watt I'm getting aftermarket starter motor and that is one of those key parts the reliability if it doesn't run amazingly you still get there if it doesn't start at all you're in trouble this starter mode has got a few signs of rust on the Bendix gears so from the outward view it's not in great Nick but I'll take it apart and see what's inside before I do that though I'm just going to get a pen and just mark the casing and the body just to help with reassembly these bolts here will go all the way through the starter motor so it's sort of important to get all these three parts lined up again to get it back together so having that mark just make things a bit easier down the track this one's got some eight mill bolts on the end just get this little plastic hammer see if we can knock this apart that's not looking great not saying it isn't isn't savable but I'm not going to I could spend a couple hours cleaning that up and maybe having a starter motor that works reliably or give it I'm already so far ahead having saved thousands I think I'll just put a new aftermarket start motor on this so I'll go in order one of those and then I'll push on to putting the gearbox back together this is the Hitachi motor that was on it and I found this aftermarket one here so the critical thing is the nine tooth clockwise but it says here it covers the bf 40 which is this motor from 95 2014 and the Honda number here is pretty close to the Hitachi number this one it ends with zv5 - oh one three zero where this is a little focus we're not there we go Oh 133 so maybe just to supersede of what I'm not sure but looks like it's compatible so odd one of those and then we'll hopefully have that in a couple of days it's never a good sign when you have to sweep your bench after opening a starter motor next thing on the operating tables the four controls these are the mounting bolts for putting it onto the boat so I'll just take these back out just a bit of a spacer plate so you don't hit your knuckles and then the rest of its Phillips head screws this bottom cover is where the control cables come into I'll take it all apart first and then I'll give it close up inside I'm not seeing anything to worry about so far and just pop this fast-idle Libre it's looking really good inside here I'm guessing this unit didn't actually go under so that's great very happy about that because obviously a lot more expensive to replace this than it would have been to replace that starter motor so I'm quite happy for the cheap things to have suffered and the expensive things to have survived and quick all that a wind put it back together I haven't spoken to the owner about it but I think the reason this survived is because the boat was tied to a pontoon when it sank so if it was tied up by the starboard side then as the boat sank it would have gone down the stern then kind of rolled onto its port side the lines holding it up onto may have actually kept these controls out of the water so I think we've been lucky there I'm going to leave this bottom plate off because I've got to mount the cables before I put it in the boat anyway so here's the gear box mounted up in the vise now the oil seal for this shift linkage looks really crusty I think this is all just mud on top so I'm going to take it outside and give it a pressure wash and then bring it back in and we'll see what it looks like underneath so here's what it looks like cleaned up not a huge amount better but what I'm think I'm going to do is drain the oil and do a pressure test and then we'll sort of go from there having said that now is a great time to change that oil seal and potentially even this plates it's a bit corroded but we'll see what result we get first in packs screwdrivers are really good for this sort of job where you get things corroded in screws in when it do is put it in press and then preload it in the undo direction and while you're holding that sort of counterclockwise tension on it give it a hit with a hammer yet then once it's broken the corrosion just wind it out you can hit these pretty hard but because I've got this mounted in a vise by the ski I don't want to break this gig off so just be careful if you've got this configuration as always what this oil looks like will give us a few clues as to the condition of this gearbox a gearbox oil is as well as dripping all over my bench incredibly clean so that's a good sign happy with that that's blue color too I've seen that before while that oil is draining I'm just going to whip the prop off and have a quick check the fishing line and the oil seals there our mouths will consider this a bit of a full service as well as a repair this is a 22 mil socket for the prop nut same as it was on the mr and now you know it's supposed to hold props with your hand like that it's my bed yeah plenty of fishing line mostly caught up around the back of the thrust washer the oil seals here look very new so I think we'll just get out and do the pressure test both of these screws just have o-rings on them another quick look in the manual and see whether they're supposed to be our rings are supposed to be fiber washers the manual lists that part as washer not owing doesn't say fiber washer but it certainly doesn't say o-rings so I think I'm gonna stop them for some new fiber washers simple pressure so I'm pretty confident this key box not leaking so I'm going to put some new oil in it put the fiber washers and the plugs and put it back together just going to let that settle for a minute for any air bubbles to come out give it one more pump just going to use the shift at a sort of nip these up literally just like a eighth of a turn or something or I can give this propshaft a clean and then put some fresh grease on it and we'll get the prop back on there are ways of putting grease on a prop shaft that feels less awkward than others all right thrust washer propped spacer wash your nut now go grab a new split pin just going to give this base plate a little bit of a clean just putting a little bit of rubber grease in the impeller just to make it easier to slide down and I grab the bolts for the pump housing just clean these bolts up a bit then I'm going to put a little bit of Loctite on each one before I put them in ten mil heads on those so there's a little bit of rubber grease on the inside of the pump housing as well so the impeller doesn't start up dry just going to run these down so they've got a even pressure around the whole housing a little bit of grease up on the drive shaft splines now and we'll slide this key box back in it sounds so easy when you say it that way trim tilt motors are a lot more sealed than starter motors but we're about to find out how the trim fared during the sinking oh that's a win just putting a touch of grease on each of these bolts before I run them in the gearcase just to make sure they come out again down the track these bolts are a 40 mil spanner this camera is about to go flat so I'll finish running these bolts down gotta have some lunch and then pick up from there back from lunch now bolts are up here I there's another bolt underneath this trim anode so that's in I've also put this anode on in a very central position so I'm just going to see if it suffers any real torque steer and then I'll I'll adjust that as necessary so probably do a beyond that also put the gearbox in reverse just to bring this collar down a little bit and then round this up and put the locking nut on so the gear selectors reattached as well I'll lower this back down again and we'll put some oil in it according to the manual this outboard takes two liters of 5w30 when I drained the oil there was no obvious signs of water in the sump oil for this motor and I had been told that it had been running since it and sunk not quite sure how because there was a bit of water in the carburetors but I'm assured it has been running so if there was water say in the under the valve cover all this kind of thing I think it would have come through into that oil so I'm pretty comfortable going to be okay but what I'm going to do is just run this for a very short time before doing an oil change so I can just let this oil pick up any impurities any water whatever and then I'll probably just swap the oil filter and put fresh oil in maybe within a week or so of getting it on the boat just to be on the safe side I think you know for the sake of $30.00 of oil and a ten dollar oil filter I just think it's worth doing it so that's much my plan in case you're wondering about not stripping the valve cover off and all that kind of stuff another little minor problem with this outboard is that the rubber for the cowling has come off so I'm just going to put a bead of sticker Flex around here and stick it on all right I'll leave that to set for a little while getting close now I think to having everything ready to put on the boat so I'm just going to pop these control cables in they just held in with little R clips bring you in a bit closer both these cables are the same there's no difference between a throttle and a gear selector cable so it's just a little washer and in our clip the second one on top here these grooves just slot into this metal and then I've just got to retract the cable till it matches there's also just a little separator that goes between the cables so the bottom one slots in then the little separator in in the top cable and then our two screws the last thing I think I need to do is rig up some sort of fuel line so I'm just going to make up a temporary line just going to have a bit of fuel line primer bulb then a bit more fuel line going to Honda fitting the fuel tank itself which was here somewhere there it is right in front of me going blind i this just has a barb fitting on it so bit of hose pump and then to the motor the reason I say this is a temporary setup is simply that although I'll be using this tank and I'll be using this hose and and bulb and everything I do want to put a water separating fuel filter in line so once the boats back in the workshop hole sort of upgrade that fuel system slightly but for now I think I'll just have a better meter of line one day I'll actually buy one of those nice little cutters that does square cuts in hose I'm not going to put a huge amount of line here because this is the one that's going to go from the tank to the fuel filter down the track although having said that it is nice to be able to move the fuel line around so I'll give it a maybe even a couple of metres so short bit of hose is going onto the tank this is all 8 mil fuel line 8 mil internal diameter and then the final piece of the puzzle is the Honda Fuel fitting all right I'll throw this on the car tonight and go and fill it up with some clean unleaded and fingers crossed that starter motor turns up the replacement starter motors arrived now so we'll open this up pop it in and then see the staffs here it is another shiny one from suede starters this starter motor is held on by three bolts two with a 12 mil head and one with a 10 mil head so I'm just going to put a little bit of Loctite on these and then the ten mill heads the one on the bottom then the earth strap once again liberal locked item thread and then just a little bolt for the strap up here and then the positive lead from the relay down here is a 12 mil I'm just going to grab the forward controls that I need to hook them up so we can get the ignition on and crank it etc and the fuel tank and a battery will be back turn the tap on and we'll see what happens that was your back well I gotta say I'm pretty stoked about that that was literally the first time I'd turned the key in anger with fuel on I turned it for two seconds before with no fuel just to make sure it was starting like you know there started I was engaging and that really is the first time this thing's fired up the first of I tried to fire it up so I'm really happy with that I did notice however it wasn't no water was coming at the tilt oh so I'll have a look what's going on there I had the impeller off and it looked fine so I don't think it's an issue there it may just got blocked up and bad whatever when it was when it was sunk so I'll just start blowing some compressed air through the hoses and we'll see if if that clears it up once I get the telltale working I'm going to run it a little bit longer then I'll just switch it off let it settle for a little while let the oil drain back down into the sump and I'll check the oil level just make sure that's right because it listed two liters of oil but it wasn't clear whether that was with or without an oil filter change so I'll just just double check and make sure that levels right I don't know if I ever told you how much of a first motor but I got it for $200 so very cheap obviously the whole sort of unknown it's sunk thing saves a lot of money it's a gamble but to be on to you I'm really happy with this now I feel like this is actually going to go pretty well for a few years in case you're really wondering as some of you may be after that whole deliberation about buying a new motor which was 100% genuine there was no doubt that was what I was aiming to do literally until this came along and in case you're wondering I had actually decided to buy the two had 250 so there you go at least you know I was meaning to do but shortly after I started arranging finance and everything to make that happen this came along so that's sort of put that on the back burner but that actually wasn't a choice so there's two upsides about buying this motor one is obviously it saved me a lot of money which I didn't have the other is that I think it's going to give us a lot more videos having a brand new motor that works perfectly has limited scope for videos this is an older car burner one so I can finally get around and the screws working so I can finally get around to doing a bit of a cupboard of tuning video I've been looking forward to that for a while so we'll definitely be doing that on this motor I'll leave this video here I'll do a second video I'm mounting this mower back onto the green machine I'm really happy now this is going to be be a going concern a good option to put on the boat so next thing I think I'll do is get back into some more wiring and then next time Paul's in the shop we'll throw this on them on the boat so take care thanks for watching if you enjoyed please rate comment subscribe and I'll catch you next time see ya

Channel: Dangar Marine

Views: 309,455

Rating: 4.9357352 out of 5

Keywords: boat, marine, outboard motor, fix, repair, honda, bf40, outboard, four stroke, sunk

Id: PCgYUVpCVGg

Length: 33min 58sec (2038 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 15 2016