Salt Bath Annealing

alright folks welcome back today it's time to talk about salt baths annealing now what the hell is salt baths annealing you might be asking yourself the basics are you get yourself a pot full of molten salt that's at about 900 degrees you take a piece of brass and you dunk the neck and shoulder down into that molten salt and you leave it there for five to seven seconds then you pull it out dunk it into some water and you've got yourself an annealed piece of brass that's the basics of it like annealing has come up several times here in my last few videos I've never been a big annealing guy like I've just never really been a big annealing guy usually with brass you get four five six firings and up to that point annealing is often times I won't say a waste of time but it's just not really necessary it's not something your average Joe reloader should spend his time worrying too much about but there are some situations where it becomes very important recently in our 22 knausgård videos where we're taking six millimeter Hager brass forming it 2:22 Nosler well the formed brass the first ones I shot I found that the neck was very hard and it was giving me too much neck tension like after the forming process I really needed to anneal that brass to soften it up that's basically what a Mealing does when you work brass over and over like if you resize it several times it starts getting hard so annealing softens it back up and with soft brass like when you're resizing your brass you know you're putting it up into a fulling sizing die or something if it's soft brass you'll get very consistent results of what comes out of that fulling sized die but if it's really hard brass that's desperately in need of annealing sometimes you'll get inconsistent amounts of bump on your shoulder like that measurement from your cartridge base up to the shoulder different pieces of brass will spring back a little bit more than others and you'll start getting inconsistent readings you'll also get inconsistent neck tension where soft brass that resizes very uniformly and the neck is nice and soft you get uniform neck tension on your bullet that's what annealing is all about now up to this whenever I felt the need to a meal I've always just pulled out a good old propane torch and done it that way you know you fire up the torch you get some way to put your brass in a drill whether it's a shell holder of some sort or a lot of people will use like spark plug sockets you know how they have the rubber part that grabs a hold of a spark plug well they're pretty good at holding a piece of brass as well and you just spin it through the flame here on your propane torch for a few seconds and you're done you're annealed and that's honestly worked pretty well for me we've done it a couple times here you know in some some of my recent videos and I get pretty good results so this is definitely your cheapest way if you're wanting to experiment a little bit with annealing just pull out the torch from the garage and give it a shot but the problem with the torch is it's a little bit slow especially the way I've done it so I've got a big old batch of 223 brass this is Lake City 556 and we've been shooting it here on my channel this same batch for probably over a year it's got four or five firings on it it's been really really good brass for us it's still in really good shape but it's getting to the point where it really needs annealed and the thought of going through all like this is four or five hundred pieces I think the thought of going through all of these with a torch is a little bit overwhelming like this is hours of work if we did it with a torch now some of you guys who have your torch method down you know to a science and can really do it fast maybe you can share your techniques with us down and here in the comments but I decided to give this salt bath annealing a shot it seemed like it was going to be very fast and I think it's going to be pretty consistent that's part of the problem when you look into a kneeling man a lot of the solutions are just extremely expensive the top-shelf best there is is the annealing made perfect machine the amp annealer but for a full-blown setup you're looking at over $1,500 at this point you've got to be extremely serious about your shooting to drop $1500 on an annealing machine like you would take an extremely long time to recoup your cost if you're just talking about you know trying to extend the life of your brass and things like that like it's an expensive machine I understand how there are a lot of people it totally makes sense and it's worth every penny but that's just not me and then working down like there's a bench source annealer that's a little over five hundred dollars which is a really nice setup it uses torches it's basically just an automated torch method that makes it so that your brass is in the flame a consistent amount of time and speeds up the process a little bit that bench source is a great-looking unit and then a little bit cheaper than that at $275 is the Emil ease machine it's a similar sort of thing where it's basically just a torch annealer that kind of automates the process and makes it so that each piece of brass is in the flame the exact amount of time but still at $275 that's a little bit of an investment it's given a whole lot closer to reasonable right $275 is getting pretty reasonable if you're a enthusiast shooter you know it won't take you more than a couple years - probably recoup $275 where the cost just in extended brass life and better performance like we're getting down into the reasonable for a hobbyist sort of price range so I seriously considered the Emilia's machine but this salt bath method really looked like the cheapest option for me now you can do this completely on your own like completely do it yourself sort of a setup but I decided to go ahead and order the salt from this company called ballistic recreations here's a can of the salt you can see a kneeling salt for brass cartridge cases and down here you'll notice it is potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate blend with a melting point of a hundred and forty two degrees Celsius now 142 degrees Celsius is about 288 degrees Fahrenheit now that is much lower than the melting point of table salt like standard sodium chloride table salt it doesn't melt until 800 degrees Celsius or 1400 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit so table salt really is not an appropriate salt to use for this method and this potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate it's hard to get like there's safety stuff and like hazmat concerns and all of that sort of junk so it's a little bit hard to buy you can you can buy it like I said you can do this completely on your own but I decided to go ahead and just order from this ballistic recreations website because they only charge $9 per can of this assault of this salt that's ready to go pre-mixed and ready to rock so I decided to go this way the whole setup is built around one of these this is a little Lee precision melter this is used for you know bullet casting if you want to melt lead it's a it's a lead furnace basically that's used for ladle pouring so these are pretty darn cheap like you can get one on mid-south shooter supply or Natchez shooters supply for around thirty six dollars I've got another one of these but it's been used quite a bit from lead and I just decided to go ahead and pick up another one since it's only thirty-six bucks and I thought it would be worth the cost because I'm looking to use this set up a lot you'll notice I've already got some some salt melted into this guy that's what the salt looks like once it's melted down and then cooled off and solidified and this wire that's sticking out of it is a thermocouple which we'll get to here in just a little bit but this is how you you know read your the temperature of your molten salt but the lead precision melter is kind of what this ballistic recreations kit is built around and the really cool thing is this case holder that they sell this fits perfectly down into the lead precision melter and you'll notice there's these two big holes that's where your brass drops into and then there's these little holder thingies yeah let me grab a piece of brass yeah here's a piece of art that 223 brass yeah it just drops right down in there so you can basically do two pieces at a time and you get a good cadence down so that you've got each piece of brass down into the molten salt the right amount of time and that's how it basically works there's also another larger hole here which is where you put your thermocouple down into yep like I've already got it into my in my salt but this is pretty well made like I think this guy makes them by hand and this piece is $28 so it makes for a pretty reasonable setup now they sell kits ballistic recreation sells a nice little kit that comes with the case holder which this is the standard one they also make a large case holder which i think is for like 50 BMG and 338 Lapua some of the really big boy cartridges this isn't quite deep enough for so there's a large but I just wanted this standard one so you get a standard case holder you get a you get a can of salt which one of these is more than enough to fill up the pot once I went ahead and picked up two you know two cans just for the hell of it but one can is enough to get started it also comes with a thermocouple that fits perfectly down in this hole and it comes with a little meter a temperature meter that reads the temperature on the thermocouple so I decided not to get the kit because I really didn't need that meter what I've got is a PID controller this uses the same you know connections that the temperature meter that he's selling uses it reads your you know reads temperature is basically what this things all about but a PID controller also controls the power you feed power into the controller and then it feeds power out to the pot and it uses that temperature reading as a feedback you set a temperature setting and this guy will automatically keep the pot at the temperature setting you want hopefully that makes sense you'll see it in action here in just a few minutes so I didn't need anything I didn't need a thermocouple because I've got a bunch of them already laying around and I didn't need the temperature meter because I have a PID controller now if you go with his kit and just have you know kind of a standard temperature meter you need to you know manually adjust your temperature to get the right reading on your temperature meter where in my case we're just going to turn this guy all the way up to high and we're gonna let the PID controller control the temperature hopefully that makes sense now the whole kit with the meter the thermocouple the case holder and a can of salt is a hundred bucks if you throw in what $35 for a melter then your you know your 135 dollars now the problem is shipping this ballistic recreations guy is up in I think he's in Edmonton Alberta Canada so shipping is a little bit extreme I got two cans of of this and a shell holder and it was $22 to ship so basically $46 plus $22 of shipping it is what it is you know that that's international shipping plus you're talking about Alberta so there's freaking dog sled teams and ice road truckers involved shippings just expensive so I would say if you're starting from nothing and you bought his hundred dollar kit plus a $35 melter then you throw in another 20 $25 for shipping you're looking at about a hundred and fifty dollars to get started with this salt bath annealing so that's a little bit more than half the price of the ANU lee's machine so we'll see how it goes we'll see if it you know proves to be a good method I don't see why it wouldn't be you know we just need to get it get used to the method but it represents a pretty good savings and if you can't quite get your method down properly with a plain old you know propane torch maybe this is another option for you now since I didn't need a thermocouple and I didn't need the temperature meter that he sells or any of that stuff yeah I spent 68 bucks at ballistic recreations and then bought another you know $35 for the Lee precision melter so I'm into this something at about a hundred bucks and I'm hoping this is going to be a good setup because I would like to start a kneeling more and more here on my channel this seems like a good value now you might be wondering why not just lead bath Anil why would you want to use a salt bath rather than just lead I've already got several lead furnaces that can melt lead and put it at just the right temperature to do annealing some people do that the advantage of salt is that it's water soluble so once we finish our kneeling process we dump it into some water to cool off the brass well it's also going to dissolve any salt that happened to get pulled out with the case with lead if you happen to get lead that basically solder is itself to your case you're kind of screwed I don't know how much of a problem that would be it might not be a problem at all so if you've got experience with lead bath annealing let us know down in the comments how does it go for you is lead sticking to the brass a problem at all or is there any downside I don't know I decided to go with the salt now as I showed you before I've already got some salt melted into this guy so there were a couple processes that I already went through here before I turn on the camera I have not annealed a single piece of brass yet so we're going to cover that in but I wanted to go ahead and get the salt melted into here the first step was just putting some salt in there and doing that initial melt so I just dumped it in and let it warm up and melt down and that initial melting I'm not sure how much of it was from the new pot and how much of it was from the salt but it was definitely putting off some fumes and some smoke and stuff that's crap you probably don't want to breathe it'll make your lungs rust I think or it'll make your kids have three legs or something like that there's a warning here in the manual he does send a pretty nice little manual guide to salt baths and kneeling that covers quite a bit of stuff but there's a warning do not heat the salt above 1,000 ninety degrees Fahrenheit or five hundred ninety degrees Celsius temperatures above this level will cause the salt to break down releasing fumes that may affect your health overheated salt also becomes an increasingly powerful oxidant and contact with flammable materials such as wood oils waxes or reactive metals such as aluminum or magnesium risk of vigorous fire or explosion so if it's not already obvious molten frickin salt is dangerous and we need to be careful about our temperatures so another reason why I'm glad to have the PID controller because if you're you know control of the temperatures manually on this guy you need to watch yourself this crap could get dangerous so that that initial meltdown like I said it smoked a lot I think some of it was probably the new pot but I don't know some of it might have been the salt so I made sure to open a window and keep the area well-ventilated and all of that crap and as it melted down I kind of gave it some stirs it gets a little bit foamy at first and then over time you know the foam goes away and you end up with a yellowish kind of clear liquid so that was the first step to get it melted down for the first time and then I let it all cool down and solidify watching the PID controller as it cooled down it seemed to freeze right about 300 degrees Fahrenheit so that's pretty close to the 142 degrees Celsius which is 288 degrees Fahrenheit so that's pretty close to the 288 degrees Fahrenheit that he says it should freeze at so yeah that all made sense so after I had heated all up to melt it and then let it cool down to freeze so then after that the one last thing I needed to do was to Autotune my PID controller with these PID controllers what it's melting changes the settings in it drastically so whenever you change like well it was tuned for a 20 20 pound pot full of lead and now we're switching to a smaller pot full of salt it's definitely smart to go ahead and run it through an auto tune so I just have to press and hold the blue button the auto tune button on it and then let it go through a cycle of warming it up to the target temperature I've set it for 800 degrees and then just kind of let it figure it stuff out and let the auto tune process complete so that's where I stand right now like I did that my PID is ready to go we've got some salt that's already kind of melted into the pot and ready to go so we're really ready to start playing around some brass so let me get this guy hooked up we'll get it warming up again and we'll start with that process alright so we got to fire it up here and temperature's rising quickly and like I mentioned they send some pretty good instructions and in this section here it talks about the temperature you should use for annealing and the proper temperature for annealing is the subject of some debate so just like always people are gonna argue about this but he says he has he's heard from others suggests that temperatures in the range of 450 to 550 degrees C will cover most if not all purposes feedback I have had from other users indicates that 500 C is a common target temperature 550 C provides a very good quality anneal but I have seen some evidence that extended use at that temperature may shorten the life of the lead precision melter so I now avoid the top end of the range that seems reasonable so let's stay away from 550 let's stick with 500 C well 500 degrees C is 932 degrees Fahrenheit so let me set this guy to 930 degrees yeah there we go we'll start with 930 degrees and see how this works out for us now later on he mentions that you will probably find that the soak times need to fall in the range of 4 to 7 seconds any less and the case Nick will not be adequately heated anymore and the annealing heat will migrate too far down the case body but that's extremely important right test of very most important thing we want to anneal the neck we want to anneal the shoulder maybe just the tiniest little bit down onto the body but we absolutely under no circumstances want to anneal the case head this part of the brass needs to stay as hard and strong as possible and softening it in any way is bad news and I think that's a big part of our temperature right 930 degrees we don't need 930 degrees to anneal brass but we need 930 degrees or something in that range so that we can get the neck and shoulder hot enough quick enough so that this part gets a meal but it's not enough time for the heat to migrate up to our case head that we have to protect from getting too hot so if you've got some jackwagon telling you to put all your brass in the oven or something and heat it up for a couple hours they are morons you can't heat the whole brass case you do not want to soften that head portion you'll get yourself in trouble and you'll blow your face off all right so we're 269 degrees and it's already starting to melt yeah there's our chunk of salt that the thermocouples frozen into so we'll be up to full temperature in no time okay so we just passed 800 degrees we're almost there but I wanted to show you what we're going to use to set our pace most people seem to use a metronome app on their phone or on their tablet and I got one here on this here tablet hey how's it going so this is a basic metronome app I've got it set to 60 beats per minute which should be one click per second there you go can you hear that we get one click per second yeah I'll put a little closer to my microphone so that's what we're going to use to pace ourselves and like I think I showed you the instructions say that between four to seven seconds is probably the range we're going to be looking at and that'll of course depend on the type of brass we're annealing and the thickness and all of that stuff so we're going to start out here with 223 brass reasonably light stuff maybe we'll be on the lower end you know four or five seconds maybe five or six and if we're doing 300 Winchester Magnum brass that may be hey you know has a little bit more mass maybe we'll we need to be up in the six or seven range I'm not going to be able to answer that question in today's video I'm brand new to this so it's a lot of trial and error here so we're getting close to our target temperature and you'll notice that my PID controller that left hand red button that's flashing now it's starting to modulate the power output to the pot and it should stabilize reasonably close to nine hundred and thirty feet nine hundred and thirty degrees I almost said feet per second so this is the advantage of the PID controller we don't have to worry about doing this manually if you buy the kit from ballistic recreations this is the point where you'll need to be watching the temperature meter and trying to get the adjustment on your pot set just right now one good thing in his little manual he's got a nice little chart a heating curve for Lee precision melter purchased in 2015 if my camera will focus there it is so he shows the settings number six seven eight nine and you know what their temperature curves look like we are shooting for 500 degrees Celsius right about there which is nine hundred and thirty two degrees actually right there but we've got to set to nine thirty so we would be at about the five hundred setting which looks like it would be around setting eight or nine on the melter so you're going to have to play with your melter and the temperature reading to see you know what setting works best for you and once we start introducing cold brass into the molten-salt it's going to be cooling down and all of that so if you're getting into this it's probably going to be a little bit of a battle at the beginning to find the right temperature setting and what works for your workflow okay so we're up to temperature but the problem now is I haven't introduced the case holder into the melter yet right so that's what we need to do next so what I really need to do is pull out this thermocouple that I just had sitting down in the salt Yap so let's move that guy down there and let's see if we can drop this guy down in here without killing ourselves like this is extremely dangerous stuff right molten salt is no freaking joke and if you happen to get water alright so I think I got our thermocouple down through the hole and I've got our case holder down into the melter it's a really nice fit it really is let me get you a better view of that guy and of course you know introducing that cold metal into the pot has dropped our temperature little bit so the PID is doing its thing bringing us back up to 930 degrees yeah look at this dude it met a nice fit like it fits the the lead precision melter really really nicely I think this case holder is absolutely worth the 28 bucks he's charging for it it's a really nice piece of gear fits just perfect now what I'm trying to get you a view of is the salt level I'm afraid I may have it a little bit too high so with our piece of brass we want to hit all of the neck all of the shoulder and just down into the body of the case just a little bit let me get something I can point with a little bit there's an allen wrench like maybe you know maybe we want the salt level about right there that is hot to get my fingers a little bit too close yeah maybe just about right there and I'm afraid that the the level of the salt might be a little bit high right now if we pull out these first couple pieces and we're finding that you know it's way down here somewhere I might need to grab a spoonful of salt and pull it out of this dude or something so let's turn on the metronome so let's try and do five seconds so one two three four five and then I put it into a bowl of water now the color of the brass is not really a good indicator but man this didn't change whatsoever that's interesting so let's move on to the next piece this piece let's go ahead and do it seven seconds just to see what the color change looks like seven and down into the water yeah I think the problem with this two to three brass is I've got it tumbled so clean that it's just not really discoloring the way you might expect from kneeling but can you see that line right about right there that seems to be about where the salt levels at which is good I'll tell you what let me see if I can find some dirty brass around here or some dirtier brass that might show us the color change we're expecting alright so here's a piece of 300 Winchester Magnum brass that hasn't been tumbled after it was fired let's see what this guy looks like let's give it seven seconds so it's getting sync with the metronome two three four five six seven dump it in the water let's see what this guy looks like and let's shut off the metronome so it doesn't drive us crazy okay so I'm not sure how well the cameras gonna pick it up but this looks like a little bit more like what we would expect as far as colour change goes it looks annealed right and it looks to be just about the right level as well so let's do one more of these click on the metronome in seven seconds and cool it off and let's just do a couple of them here seven seconds down again seven seconds alright let's see what those three look like alright so here are those three those look just about right as far as the amount that we went down below the shoulder you know just a little bit below the shoulder the color change stops I think the the level of the of the salt probably just a little bit above the shoulder or below the shoulder if you want to look at it that way and we didn't seem to get any extreme heat migration up the case and as you mentioned as you can see I'm not I'm not wearing any gloves and I was able to pull them out you know by hand so I think we might be just about right let's go back to some 223 cases and let's do these for seven seconds seven sexes down in there three four five six seven water that would do that one kind of got jammed up a little bit let's try this again okay that was a little bit better snaps alright so here are those pieces and it doesn't seem to be picking up at all here in the in the viewfinder of the camera but I think our salt levels coming down to right about right there and there is definitely a kind of a gradual color change right in this area but the camera is not really picking it up very well so let's uh let's go ahead and ruin a couple let's do one for ten seconds and then the next one for 15 seconds one two three four eight nine ten okay here's the next one we'll do it for 15 seconds there it is yeah that one that one burned a little burn the fingers a little bit coming out yeah and if anything this should L straight how color change doesn't mean anything these are those two pieces I think at least the 15 second one is probably ruined the case had just got a little bit too hot but not a lot of distinct color change and like I mentioned I eat all comes down to the fact that I just I had tumbled these a little bit too well and they're just not showing much so I went looking for some other random stuff this is 7.5 by 55 Swiss brass yep Norma brass so let's see what five seconds does to these guys so this seems to be just about right it made it down past the shoulder a little bit so definitely got all of the neck and the shoulder that he didn't migrate too far doesn't look like a little bit of discoloration down just a touch but overall it just looks like I'm nicely a kneeled piece of brass so it just looks like the 223 brass is not going to discolor and there's not a darn thing wrong with that now let's see if I can get a technique down to where we can do them two at a time so let's do six seconds each so every three seconds I need to be putting one in taking one out yeah this is hard to get the rhythm down on I think I've had a couple that I left in there a second or two too long so that's going to take some practice so the question is the ones we've done so far how do we know we've actually annealed them and that we're not just wasting our time I'll tell you what let's pull out a fooling sizing die and see if we can measure any difference between these annealed cases and cases that haven't been annealed yet all right so I've got this reading small bass fooling sizing die set up to wear before they go into the die they're measuring about one point four six five from the cartridge base to the shoulder this is the Horn of the headspace comparator kit with the a330 bushing in there so we start out at one point four six four and this should come out at one point four six zero so about four thousandths of bump to that shoulder let's see what the number comes up to perfectly 1.46 zero I've got several more here let's go ahead and run through the rest of them make sure they all come out very consistently at one point four six zero one point four six zero the next one one point four five nine five yep so that was just a half a thousands shorter the next one is one point four six zero and the next one is one point four six zero so hopefully you get the point this brass is coming out of our fooling sizing die with an extremely consistent measurement from the base to the shoulder so let's grab a couple pieces that we haven't annealed and see how they come out all right here's the first all right here's the first see if it reads any different just a touch one point four six one so an additional thousandth of an inch of spring back that's not too much here's the next one yeah that one's actually one point four six zero just like the others and here's the last one I grabbed and this one's one point four six two so a little bit of difference right the the two longest ones that we measured or two that weren't annealed we had a one point four six one and then this one's a one point four six two so at least a little bit of difference here you know resizing measurement alright so here's the next thing I need to do I need to take this big huge box of brass I think I'm going to dunk them for six seconds I need to figure out a flow I need to figure out the choreography of taking advantage of both holes in this case holder and getting the process down as fast as I can so I'm going to turn off the camera and I'll bring you guys back once I get my process down and feel like I'm doing them at a decent pace so I'll see you guys here in just a second okay so I'm coming down to the end of this batch and a couple things I've learned I there's no way I can alternate there's no way like I just don't have the coordination so I have to drop them two at a time and then pull them out at the same time so what I did was set my metronome to six beats instead of four so every sixth beat I'm either pulling them out or I'm putting them in another thing I've learned is gloves are absolutely necessary I don't have any they're down in my garage and I'm too lazy to go get them but you do get a little bit of splat a little bit of splash with the salt whenever you're dunking it in the water now I've got this water pretty close to my pot full of molten all this is extremely dangerous if water gets down into one of these holes we're in big trouble so trying to be careful not to splash water into the holes and doing this six second cycle so let me listen to the metronome here for a second and try and get get in the flow and I'll show you guys how I've been doing them three four five six one two three four five six into the water three four five six one two three four five six four five six five six five six six like I can't even talk this kind of takes some focus five six four five six six five six five six five six six four five six four five six five six five six five six five six now occasionally like that one kind of went in a little bit difficult and I had to give it an extra second because sometimes they don't go down on that guide perfectly you can get a little bit jammed up so now I gotta listen to my metronome get back into my beat here 1 2 3 4 5 6 5 6 5 6 five six pulled those out just a half second too early three four five six six last one five six all done that's it all right we can stop the annoying metronome all right folks so my big batch of 223 brass is now annealed that we're pretty quick like it took a while to get a rhythm and figure out a technique to work for me but the metronome being on one second beats and I don't know I'm not a music guy there's like a heartbeat with a different tone and then five additional beats and then another hard beat that seemed to be about the right rhythm so two rounds went in every 12 seconds so that's one round per six seconds which means about 600 rounds per hour more realistically probably 500 rounds per hour that seems like a pretty good pace like 500 rounds per hour annealed it seems fast there's no way I could do that many with a torch no way so I think this is gonna be fast I think it's going to be pretty easy I think the metronome keeps it at least pretty close to you know consistent maybe I'll need to lengthen or shorten that time I don't know we'll see how it goes so lessons learned I need some gloves you might see this like there's salt all over the place pulling the rounds in and out dumping them into water I had frickin salt going all over the place I think the price on this setup is reasonable I got started cheap because I already had a PID controller and uh you know thermocouple and all of that stuff but even if you don't have that getting started for 150 bucks it's cheaper than any other method you're going to find the first jar of salt that I've cracked open let me darken up that camera a little bit so you can see that's about how much that's left I probably use sixty five seventy percent of this first cam to fill up the the pot the first time you're going to lose some salt every time you use it right some of it is going to get stuck to the cartridge and end up in the water bath and you're going to need to top it off every once in a while I'm glad I went ahead and got two cans of it this should last me a really long time I think I don't know we'll see how it goes now the real-life results I tried to show you on the fooling sizing died not very dramatic right we saw slightly more consistent resize headspace numbers that's about that's what you're looking for with annealing I don't think it's a magical answer to anything but if you're looking for that last little bit of consistency if you're looking for a little bit more brass life if you're forming brass and annealing is absolutely necessary this seems like a pretty good pretty good setup so far so good I'm happy with my purchase now one thing I'll say about ballistic recreations it took a while to get this because it was all out of stock or at least the the case holder was out of stock so I think this is a guy welding these together in his garage or whatever you know just kind of doing this as a side project one thing that was a little frustrating is on his website there wasn't any like notify me when it's back in stock option or anything like that so I just had to keep going back over and over to the website waiting for things to come in stock so that that's a little frustrating the website I should probably give it to you since I can't link it in the description because YouTube sucks yeah so it's ballistic recreations dot CA and right now this standard shell holder or this standard case holder is out of stock so it's one of those deals it's hard to get ahold of but if you have a little bit of patience like I did you know it took me a couple weeks to get the order placed but pretty happy that case holder seems to be really well made it fits that Lee precision melter pot very nicely just a great design so I think that's it folks if you see a kneeling on my channel here in the future this is probably going to be how we're doing it so I'll see you guys next time

Channel: Johnny's Reloading Bench

Views: 90,576

Rating: 4.8848414 out of 5

Keywords:

Id: qaHGwrKzQYY

Length: 39min 21sec (2361 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 02 2019