Bigger than Europe and Australia
together... ...Russia is a land
of incredible vastness ...and wonderful,
fascinating nature. Kuril Lake on Kamchatka
in the far east of Russia... ...is a paradise
for the world’s largest brown bears. In the far north, the frozen wastes
of the Yamal peninsula... ...are home
to the reindeer herds of the Nenets. And in the far south, the ancient
forests of North Ossetia-Alania... ...in the Caucasus are once
again the habitat of wild bison. In all these places researchers
and conservationists are working... ...with great enthusiasm to
preserve Russia’s hidden paradises. Located in the extreme west
of Russia is the Curonian Spit: A narrow strip of land in the Baltic Sea
that’s around 100 kilometres long. Since 1945 the northern half
has belonged to Lithuania... ...the southern half to the
Russian exclave of Kaliningrad. Amongst other creatures,
it is home to the Tengmalm’s owl. And he makes sure
the bird is in good hands. Vast, white beaches make this
an ideal place for a seaside holiday. And a rewarding location
for scientific research. There’s a lot aerial activity going on
above this narrow strip of land in the sea. That is why biologists have been studying
bird migration here for more than 100 years. The Curonian Spit with its
valuable ornithological station... ...definitely belongs to
the world’s natural heritage. Up until 1945 Rybachy
was called Rossitten. It was the world’s first
ornithological research station. Established in 1901... ...at first the ornithological station
was only sparsely equipped. German priest and bird lover
Johannes Thienemann... ...built it up ‘with a heart full
of glowing enthusiasm’. Rossitten is regarded as the
birthplace of modern ornithology. Here, German-Russian relations
are still very close. Thienemann was the first researcher
to ring birds on a large scale. He began to study living birds
in their environment. There was a tradition here of
catching hooded crows for food. The birds were caught alive
and bitten to death: A cruel way of killing them. The only good thing was that a method
existed for catching birds alive. Instead of killing them, Thienemann
ringed the birds and released them. Every year in late March ornithologists
in Rybachy roll up their sleeves... ...and get out their
most important research tool. Yes, this is just an
ordinary fishing net. But when it’s in position
it will be spectacular. The rolled-up fishing net turns out... ...to be the biggest scientific
bird-catching structure in Europe. The famous “Fringilla” traps,
as they are known... ...consist of fishing nets... ...up to seventy metres long, thirty
metres wide, and fifteen metres high. It’s a sophisticated concept. Depending on the weather, it takes two
or three days to get everything set up. The researchers always erect two nets. Nikita makes a last check to make sure mice
haven’t eaten holes in the netting in winter. The traps are then hauled up
into their final position. The work makes a welcome
change from research life... ...in the laboratory or at a desk. In springtime birds fly from
their wintering areas... ...in the south to their
breeding grounds in the north. Awaiting them is
the smaller net on the left. The slightly larger net on the right
traps the parent birds... ...and their young in autumn
on their way back south. Now it’s a case of waiting. We should have some birds
by tomorrow morning. It depends on the weather,
but the chances aren’t bad. An ornithologist knows
what he’s talking about. Cranes are among the first to
appear over the Curonian Spit. But these elegant long-distance flyers
rarely end up in the net. They simply fly too high. As soon as birds of passage
like these chaffinches sense... ...a high-pressure area, a suitable tailwind,
or rising temperatures they set off. Millions of chaffinches, indicated
in yellow, arrive from the far south. Blackbirds, shown in pink,
are regular guests. So are starlings. They would all rather fly over the tiny
tongue of land than over the open sea. Today Nikita’s colleague Micha
has the early shift. To keep their stress levels
as low as possible... ...the hungry birds are removed
from the net every hour. The experienced researchers
work quickly and efficiently. In the ringing station each bird is
measured, weighed and given... ...a “passport” in the form of
an aluminium ring with a number. This robin is ringed
with the number fifteen. It takes the researchers
just fifteen seconds... ...to determine
what condition a bird is in. The bird’s breast feathers
are checked for parasites. And the bird’s fat reserves assessed. For years now these “Lords of the
Rings” have focused on far more... ...than determining
the birds’ migratory routes. We can evaluate the data we collect
with reference to climate change. We've discovered, for instance,
that many birds are now arriving... ...far earlier in spring
than in the 1960s and 70s. And that, of course,
has to do with climate change. Each season Nikita’s colleagues ring
up to three hundred thousand birds. Known as the
“hummingbird of the North”... ...this tiny goldcrest
weighs just five grammes. The colourful goldfinch
is now also returning earlier. So is the obstreperous blackbird. Through observing birds over a long
period, ornithologists here are able... ...to determine many global correlations
and gather evidence... ...of the changes taking place
in our modern age. This makes Rybachy
an ornithological hotspot... ...and a valuable natural treasure. Like the entire
Curonian Spit, in fact. The uniqueness of this coastal strip was
even extolled by Alexander von Humboldt. He wrote: ‘The Spit is so remarkable
that along with Spain and Italy... ...one must have experienced it. Otherwise one’s soul would be
deprived of a wonderful sight.’ If they are to discover the last secrets
of bird migration Nikita Chernetsov... ...and his colleagues will
have to carry out research... ...at this special place
for quite a while longer With well-thought-out experiments,
limited funding, and great commitment. When it’s breakfast time
in the far West in Russia... ...the further East you are
the later in the day it is. This huge country extends
over eleven time zones... ...and a distance of
ten thousand kilometres. The largest region in the
Russian Federation is Siberia. Stretching from the Urals
to the Pacific... ...it has a wide range
of landscapes. Like the seemingly endless
and treeless tundra of the north... ...or the mighty mountain ranges of
the south, like the Altay Mountains. And in between there is the Taiga... ...the biggest continuous
northern forest wilderness on Earth. The climate is extreme. Full of snow and bitterly cold,
winter here lasts for eight months. At times the temperature
can drop to minus 70 degrees. In this separate eco-system
only four species of conifer thrive. Pine, spruce, fir, and larch. No deciduous species could ever
survive here on a permanent basis. The farther north they grow... ...the smaller and
more slender the trees are. Trees, too, can freeze.
Then they grow more slowly. Located in the extreme far east
of Siberia is Kamchatka. Slightly bigger than Germany
and surrounded by three oceans... ...it is the largest
peninsula in East Asia. Virtually uninhabited, Kamchatka is... ...one of the most active
volcanic regions on Earth. Thirty of the 160 volcanoes
here erupt at regular intervals. According to legend,
when Creation was complete... ...God still had a sack
full of everything. And bestowed it on Kamchatka. Up until 1990 the peninsula
was a military no-go area. For years, time seemed
to stand still on Kuril Lake, too. The second-deepest
freshwater lake in Russia. It lies in the caldera
of a huge volcano. One of its most important tributaries
is the Ozernaya River. Situated where it enters the lake, and
surrounded by a simple electric fence ... ...is the rangers’ camp of the
South Kamchatka Wildlife Sanctuary. Here, in the habitat of these furry
quadrupeds, man is merely a guest. With food in abundance... ...there are many places
the animals can retreat to. This is a paradise for bears. 500 of the biggest
brown bears world-wide... ...live right next to the lake
where they catch red salmon. Every year five million salmon
come here to spawn. In this paradise bears
practically grow on trees. And it’s Sergei Shurunov
and Anatoli Lasarenko’s job... ...to guard to this paradise. We’re often out and about in
areas which are hard to get to. We have to cover dozens
of kilometres through... ...tundra, marshland,
snow, and snowstorms. We have to be physically fit. That’s also important
for us personally. And we catch armed poachers. That calls for character
and a lot of will. To get them to give up,
Anatoli and Sergei... ...have even beaten
poachers at arm wrestling. Wherever they go,
they leave a strong impression. Anatoli and Sergei are both
around sixty years old. To protect the bears they patrol
the entire sanctuary at regular intervals. It’s not unusual for them to
cover 70 kilometres a day... ...with 35 kilogrammes on their backs. The salmon migration and
the lake are important... ...to the entire
eco-system of the region. With international support,
Russian biologists have been... ...carrying out research
here for many years. But it's also vital
for the sanctuary to be... ...constantly monitored
to combat poaching. The rangers know the problem
from the Caucasus. That's where they
come from originally. For years the situation in many... ...wilderness areas of Russia
was desperate. Poachers hunted anything
they could find in the forests. Nothing escapes
the rangers’ attention. It’s the only way to protect
themselves and the bears. In 2007 Sergei and Anatoli
got an emergency call. On one of the annual
monitoring flights... ...biologists at the sanctuary
had made a horrific discovery. Organized gangs of poachers
had killed around 100 bears. They left the carcasses to rot. The bears had had their paws hacked
off and their gall bladders cut out. A short time later we captured
the group of poachers responsible. They had chopped the paws off
a mother bear and her three cubs. In China bear paws and
bear gall are in great demand. But, thanks to strict patrolling,
since 2007... ...not a single bear at Kuril Lake
has been killed by a poacher. The brown giants feel safe and
go about their favourite pastime: Catching salmon, totally untroubled. Some bears have their own
special fishing technique. The spawning season has just begun
and the water level is still high. Many attempts end in failure. But all the same,
everyone here is content. It was more a case of the job
finding us than the other way round. A female with cubs needs
twenty thousand calories a day. That corresponds to at least
fourteen kilogrammes of salmon. To ensure the future of the lake... ...poaching salmon
is also strictly forbidden. Protecting this region means
a lot to Anatoli and Sergei. They rarely see their families,
which makes it... ...all the more important for
them to get on well together. I'm so grateful that fate
has given me such a friend. A comrade for life and for work. Not everyone is
as lucky in life as me. My friends are my colleagues. On Kamchatka salmon are
an important economic factor. All five species of
Pacific salmon occur here. As a result,
the region accounts for 80%... ...of the Russian fishing
industry’s entire catch. Strict regulations and quotas are
in place to prevent overfishing. On two days of the week,
for instance... ...fishing in the sea
is totally forbidden. In the rivers, Itelmen fishermen... ...are allowed to cast their nets on four days. For the rest of the week the
salmon remain undisturbed. Many Itelmens welcome the measures. To please their fish god, some
of them make offerings to him. In the sanctuary Sergei and Anatoli
are embarking on their next patrol. They’re being taken by boat to a
remote region on the Ozernaya River. It was here, in the middle
of the night a few years ago... ...that they surprised
a large group of poachers. The men had five hundred
kilogrammes of salmon eggs with them. A huge amount worth around 8,000
euros on the Russian black market. Today one of the poachers
works at a fish factory. The two conservationists
got him the job. They know that if there
are job prospects... ...many men will stop
poaching voluntarily. On their patrol Anatoli
and Sergei again face... ...a strenuous trek
through difficult terrain. It’s pouring down
but they press on regardless. My great wish is that this place will
stay so full of life that everyone... ...will understand how sacred it is
and that the whole world needs it. The cub felt that. The better the food situation, the
more cubs a mother bear will produce. Thanks to the lush vegetation,
triplets are not uncommon. What’s more, the lake serves
as a delivery room for red salmon. Twenty per cent of the world’s
red salmon come from here. Poachers, of course,
also know that. On their patrol Sergei and
Anatoli have seized two nets. A rather modest yield this time. Our biggest-ever find
here on Kuril Lake was... ...when we seized three
or four kilometres of nets. That was really impressive.
We then had to burn them ourselves. Sergei showed us
a video of the incident. Three poachers had just hauled in
the first net when they were caught. What happened next
is regulated by law. The rangers have to report
every poacher to the police. Prior to that, the thieves have
to destroy their booty themselves. The fish have to be destroyed
so that no-one can use them. Certainly not the poachers. What’s more,
since fish goes off quickly... ...someone might get food poisoning. We throw the fish
back into the water... ...as food for bears,
micro-organisms, and baby fish. All poachers’ nets
are seized and then burnt. Another victory for
this bears’ paradise. This time a good thirty bears are
fishing simultaneously on a sandbank. Two bears are taking a short nap. But most of the others are
in the grip of hunting fever. Encroaching on your neighbour’s
patch is not exactly a good idea! Bears can smell
the salmon in the water. But the younger and
less experienced a bear is... ...the more often
its efforts go unrewarded. Mature bears waste far less energy. Some salmon have managed
to avoid their hunters. From the air it is clear
what has helped them: The sediment that is swirled up... ...makes the water very cloudy
and the fish harder to spot. Naturally, the salmon are delighted! But the bears are good at fishing.
And no-one here misses out. This is what a contented,
relaxed brown bear looks like. These two young blades are
brothers and hunt in tandem. If everything in the South Kamchatka
Sanctuary goes as well as it... ...has done, this bears’ paradise on
Kuril Lake has a real future. Russia has a population
of only 144 million. Green indicates
the sparsely inhabited regions. A good third of all the country’s
inhabitants, most of them Russians... ...live in the European part,
shown here in red. 170 other ethnic groups are
spread over the entire country. The most deserted area
of Russia is located... ...around the Arctic Ocean
which is rich in species. It’s an icy world
of incredible beauty. And it still abounds with life. Franz-Josef-Land is a natural
treasure shrouded in mystery. It consists of some
190 uninhabited islands... ...located just 900 kilometres
from the North Pole. For a long time Franz-Josef-Land
was a military no-go area. Today the archipelago is part of... ...the Russian Arctic
National Park and can be visited. Remarkably perfect spheres like these
are scattered all over Champ Island. Measuring up to three metres across,
they look like giant marbles. But they are, in fact, concretions. The ball-shaped rocks are believed
to form around a fossil. Another geological phenomenon
has caused... ...a sensation in Russia’s Far North. Since 2014 huge round holes
have been appearing... ...in the ground
on the Yamal peninsula. And their number is increasing. The most fantastic explanations for
the holes have been put forward. They're ranging from
meteorite impact to aliens. Russian scientists
studied the phenomenon. They decided that rising summer
temperatures were causing... ...the permafrost to thaw to
a greater depth than ever before. Frozen methane is suddenly released... ...and escapes in a huge explosion. This explains the crater walls
on the edge of the holes. The particularly large number of holes
indicates the existence on... ...the Yamal Peninsula of the biggest
fields of methane gas on our planet. But the Yamal Peninsula is
the home of the Nenets people. In their language “Yamal”
means “end of the world”. And indeed, the only way to get to it
is aboard an old military helicopter. A strenuous trip with
several intermediate stops. From Yar-Sale, the main
settlement in the province... ...it's six hundred kilometres to
the reindeer herds of the Nenets. The Nenets have survived in their
hostile environment for centuries. Florian Stammler wants to find out
just how they manage it. Even the youngest lend a hand. The Nenets lead a life
full of privations. As nomads, they migrate with
their animals all year round. The reindeer provide the Nenets
with everything they need: Food, clothing, transport,
and even sport. Florian Stammler has been coming
here for more than twenty years. Spending several weeks
helping his friend Nicolai... ...cope with the harsh
reality of everyday life. For me, Siberia is peace of mind.
It’s meditation. And it is also life,
of course, and work. But peace of mind is
something very special. I always find it so restful here. When I have left the hectic pace
of urban life behind me... ...I can really feel my soul relaxing. And that is fantastic. Providing firewood
is a job for the men. No matter what the weather. When a snowstorm persists... ...Nicolai’s family can sometimes
spend days in their chum. That's their traditional tent. But the Nenets are used to it. After all, they’ve been living in
these icy wastes for generations: Cheek by jowl with their animals. On days when a storm is raging
with particular ferocity... ...and everyone is sitting cosily
in a tent with time on their hands... ...it’s a good opportunity to work
with maps and to discuss things. Then, when the weather
improves we go out... ...and head for the places
we’ve talked about. The idea behind field work is
not for the ethnologist to merely... ...study things theoretically
with his local partner. But for the two to actually
experience things together. Nicolai and his family spent... ...several years
living in a real village. But then he decided to return
to this icy emptiness. First and foremost
I was drawn by the tundra. That was the main reason. Secondly, my father was sick. So we had to come here, back home. I found it too boring
being in the village. I need the freedom to
head out into the tundra. Nearly everything the Nenets wear
came from their reindeer. Well-moistened, the sinews serve as
yarn, as they have done for centuries. These nomadic people
can adapt perfectly... ...to so many different conditions. Indeed, their capacity for
adaptation is so great that... ...they can adapt to
industrialization as well. But despite all the Nenets’ flexibility... ...climate change and gas production
are rapidly changing their world. Roads and pipelines to the
gas-fired power station... ...cut right across
the reindeer’s grazing areas. While some of the animals are
untroubled by such obstacles... ...others shy away from them. The permafrost soil is thawing
to an ever greater depth. The Nenets tackle
the problem with mats. But the thaw is also releasing
dangerous germs. Germs that have been safely
sealed in the ice for centuries. 2016 saw the first
major outbreak of anthrax. One child died along with more
than two thousand reindeer. Nicolai’s family has no wish
to lead any other kind of life. They all love their icy homeland. Today is slaughter day. The Nenets kill their animals
by strangling them. It's not a quick death. Enough to make any European shudder. But for the Nenets
this is a centuries-old ritual. This method of slaughtering
is deeply rooted... ...in the Nenets’ religious beliefs. They strangle a reindeer
instead of killing it with a knife... ...because the animal’s blood
must be saved for the gods. Not a single drop
must touch the ground. Everyone lends a hand
with the slaughtering. Later, every part of the reindeer
will be put to use. The Nenets drink the animal’s blood. Some of the meat is eaten uncooked. Only in its raw state does it provide
the Nenets and any visitor of course... ...with essential vitamins. Life here with the Nenets, I think,
shows one thing quite clearly: That the snowmobile
and the reindeer team... ...the electricity generator and
the stove, can all exist side by side. And I can’t see these
things disappearing... ...over the next ten or
twenty years or even longer. Naturally, changes take place
which are so far-reaching... ...that occasionally
something is lost. But that has always been
the case with cultures. It is not only Florian Stammler who
believes in a future for the Nenets. The Nenets have always protected
their reindeer from all evils. From geologists and from wolves. If the Nenets protect their culture
and their customs in the same way... ...they will always be strong. There is no doubt that the world
would be a far poorer place... ...if the robust culture
of these people were lost. As we head south,
apart from the tropics... ...we find that every
climate zone is represented. This huge country encompasses more
than half of all the fertile land on our planet. That’s because there are around
two and a half million rivers... ...running through
Russia as lifelines. Situated deep in the south
is Lake Baikal... ...the oldest and deepest
freshwater lake on Earth. This dinosaur amongst
the world’s lakes... ...is often referred to
as Siberia’s “blue pearl”. Lake Baikal is 25 million years old
and teeming with life. Sponges grow here, strange
creatures that look like corals. Some three hundred different
species of amphipod... ...work tirelessly
as minute treatment plants. That's good,
as Lake Baikal contains... ...480 times more water
than Lake Constance. And that makes it the biggest
freshwater reservoir on Earth. The undisputed star among the
lake’s inhabitants is the Baikal seal. The only species of freshwater seal,
this is its sole habitat. In the 1980s the Baikal seal
was threatened with extinction. But, thanks to a strict ban on hunting,
the population recovered. Towering up some 4,800 kilometres away,
still in the far south of Russia... ...are the mighty peaks of the Caucasus,
a range of mountains that runs... ...eleven hundred kilometres from
the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea. Situated on Russia’s
border with Georgia... ...is the republic
of North Ossetia-Alania. In this colossal landscape
it is easy to feel small and lost. Where tourism is concerned... ...North Ossetia-Alania
is virtually undeveloped. That’s because of Russia’s military
conflicts with Chechnya and Georgia... ...which lasted well into the
opening decade of this century. This is a wild region with large areas
covered by ancient mountain forest. It is home to Europe’s
biggest living bovine: The bison. The region has been
inhabited since classical times. In the ninth century
the Alans migrated here. Direct ancestors of the Ossetians... ...they found their last resting place
in Dargavs, the City of the Dead. It is said to be the creepiest
place in the whole country. But that doesn’t bother him. Today Valerij Shmunck
and two colleagues... ...are out and about in the
Tsejsky State Nature Reserve. These Caucasus experts are looking
for bison they released into this... ...three hundred square kilometre
sanctuary over several years. It’s no easy task. Bison are shy creatures and the mountain
landscape here is extremely rugged. There's a valley down here. We know that two large Bison
males usually spend daytime there. We’ll go down now, and see if they
are there, maybe we will find them. We are, of course, also looking
primarily for young animals. They are always a sign that
the population is healthy. That the bison are reproducing. That the population will be
stable in the long term. The conservationists
are turning the clock back. Mountain bison were
thought to have died out. The last animals were shot in 1927. A single bull called “Caucasus”
survived and was taken to Germany. All the bison alive here
today were bred... ...from him and female lowland bison. Bison from the lowland Caucasus
strain are being resettled here. Donated by various European zoos,
these ancient bovines have been... ...transported thousands of
kilometres to their new home. The mountain forests of North Ossetia
must seem like a paradise to them. To find them, the conservationists
have to cover a lot of ground on foot. Since he’s familiar with the area, Pavel Weinberg guides
his two colleagues through the pristine forest of the sanctuary. So, here you can see very well,
they start from the bottom... ...and then they rip up
the entire bark. But this is only in summer and spring. In winter they
would not rip it up so... You can see the signs of teeth. The conservationists from Russia and
Germany work very successfully together. They have a common goal. Since real natural paradises are
disappearing, then of course every work... ...which is done to research or
to preserve such places is important. Really, we are losing such places. Unfortunately. The more we know about them,
the better we can preserve them. At last: A fresh hoof print. Pavel knows that
the bison like this valley. Down by the river is an alder forest.
Alders prefer wetlands. Along with plenty of food and water... ...the forest provides the bison
with enough places to retreat to. But there is not a bison in sight. So the men head on
to a muddy clearing. This is where the bison
find minerals in the soil. So it’s an ideal location
for a camera trap. The shy animals can then be observed
without being disturbed. The data are read
at regular intervals. Here is a group, one two three,
five adults and one calf. In front there is a bull. This is also a bull. Maybe a young. Big bison. Right in front of the camera,
they are posing. For the conservationists these
pictures are like winning the lottery. They’re the reward for months of work. Thanks to the co-operation
between zoologists from... ...Germany, other European countries,
and Russia, more than eighty... ...of these giants can once again
roam the forests here in freedom. It’s always a gamble.
Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. In this case, I think, we’ve won. Bison can be seen in nearly every
video and on every photograph. Pictures of a small wolf pack make a perfect end
to a strenuous day’s hiking. After their exertions Pavel, Aurel,
and Valeri have decided... ...to spend the night in the mountains
and treat themselves to some kebabs. The conservationists have achieved
a great deal in recent years. For a long time after the
collapse of the Soviet Union... ...poaching was a
major issue in this region. It was mainly boar, roe deer
and red deer that were hunted. So, people here in Alania,
are they respecting bison? Respecting is one thing. Okay, suppose, you shoot a bison. It is a very hard job to
take it out of the forest. You cannot put it in a backpack and
walk away. It is really difficult. Consequently, the wild forests
of North Ossetia have become... ...a real refuge for
these brown giants. In the mountains of North
Ossetia-Alania, on the border with... ...Georgia, the trio have come to check
on another reintroduction project. It lies on the other
side of the range. Animals, of course,
don’t stop at national borders. So it is particularly
important for us... ...to select sanctuaries
on both sides of a border. Habitats we can protect. It is also vitally important for
these habitats to be interconnected. Here is the map of protected areas. So we released here on
both sides 60 animals... ...most of them in Azerbaijan,
but also some in Georgia. Five of the animals were fitted with
GPS collars to enable conservationists... ...to determine their
migratory routes. This time, however, it isn't the bison
that's involved but the goitered gazelle. At one time goitered gazelles
roamed in their thousands. Today the species
is critically endangered. But now, perhaps, this antelope,
too, has a slight chance of survival. Despite political conflicts, included
arms conflicts, we work together... ...successfully with
Azerbaijanian conservationists... ...Armenian conservationists and
Georgian conservationists. And I must say we are united. Thus, in a region so fiercely contested
geopolitically... conservationists have achieved something
politicians are still working towards.
