RICOH GRIII settings to enjoy street photography

when I first got my Rico gr3 I was pretty much using it as any of my previous and other cameras which means in aperture priority mode what I appreciated it's small size that made it pocketable and easy to carry I was a bit frustrated by its slower autofocus short battery life and other minor Crocs but this was until my whole shooting experience changed after I finally upgraded to the latest firmware and started using the snap distance priority mode all right [Music] foreign [Music] experiments I will share my exact settings and set up when using the gr if you have not watched the previous videos I challenge myself to shoot almost on a daily basis with the RICO gr3 for about a month thanks to this daily practice I am today in a pretty good place in regards to my settings as they have stayed very consistent in my last photography outings let me start by saying that I should now with the snap distance priority mode almost 90 percent of the time and when you are shooting in that mode you only have to choose two things the amount of depth of field you want and the focus distance from one meter to Infinity with some smartly selected increments in between it means that for the most part your aperture shutter speed and ISO are controlled by the camera which might trigger some of you swearing only by the manual mode but I can tell you I had the most fun shooting with the gr3 more than ever before since I made the switch there are three depths of field level going from the shallowest to the deepest you control this by spinning the central tail left or right then you choose your focus Distance by moving the front dial on the left side of the screen you can see a scale where the green part shows the area that is in focus with your current setting combination during bright days I usually go for due F3 and then adjust my snap distance based on where I stand compared to the subject but keeping it at 2.5 meter is a good solution to be quick to react with this much depth of field focusing at 2.5 meter will get most of the frame in Focus so if you don't have the time or forget to adjust your snap distance you are still likely to get a sharp shot by the way I'm not in looking for a crazy bokeh when shooting with my cr3 I prefer have more in focus and more layers in my company and that's why I keep it at do F3 with this mindset it also becomes easier to use the GL almost like a true point in shoot [Music] as previously mentioned I now use the snap distance priority mode almost 90 percent of the time but there are still some situations where I would prefer using the regular aperture priority mode for example I may want to have full control over my focus or open up to 2.8 to have a little bit more bokeh what's interesting is that you can set up your camera in a way that allows you to quickly switch to the a mode or even bypass the snap distance priority mode without switching back to the aperture priority mode to set this up first I keep the mode dial on the a mode and then I program a button to switch to the slab distance priority mode without having to go through the menu so I suggest choosing the right one on the central dial the one for the drive mode since I never really changed my drive mode when shooting my gr I don't really need it once you've set this up you can enter this type distance priority mode and shade a few more buttons from there first with the FN button we want to enable autofocus second you change shutter button setting to the AE lock only third the touch autofocus to AF point plus Focus press shoot with this combination of settings you can actually use the Aperture priority mode to some extent while still being in the snap distance priority mode when pressing the FN button your camera will focus with the latest AF points and aperture settings used when you were still in aperture priority mode before I usually set my AF point to the center and my f-stop to 2.8 before entering the step distance priority mode so when I press the effect button I'm in this code encode poke mode and I can purposely focus on something closer and try to get the shallower depth of field but in a situation where you have more time and don't necessarily want to open up to F 2.8 you can still press the right button on the central dial to quickly move back to the full aperture priority mode the touchscreen autofocus is another way to have extra flexibility but the funny thing is that unlike the autofocus on the FN button the settings will remain the same as the snap distance priority mode let's say your combination of dof and step distance give you a hundred of a second of a shutter speed and exponentry aperture it will stay the same when using the touch AF I suggest choosing the one that both focus and shoots at the end because we never know what may happen between the moment we touch on the screen and the shutter is released this can actually help you capture unexpected decisive moments [Music] let's talk about a few extra settings to complete these gr3 setups that you are free to apply if it fits your shooting approach first I use auto ISO all the time with the upper limit at 4000 and the minimum shutter speed at 1 over 100. if you want to freeze the subject in a really fast motion you can set that a bit higher of course since I don't require a button to adjust my ISO I program the exposure lock on the left button of the central dial if I want absolute control and taking the time to set all the parameters of my photo before shooting I can simply press on the exposure lock and be assured that my exposure won't make any unexpected move this brings me to the mid ring that simple I always keep it to multi-segment I think it works well and as suggested before I can always have more control by using the exposure lock toggle finally when shooting row which I do most of the time I usually set my exposure compensation to minus 0.3 it is a good balance to keep the highlights details while allowing easy recruit version of your shadows if needed I would move that only in special situations when I want to really Crush my blacks and have high contrast image for example lastly when I shoot mainly row I occasionally try some new jpeg recipe but when doing so I recommend shooting row plus jpeg so you have a backup but I already made a whole video about the gr3 recipes that you are free to watch if you're interested [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] for daytime shooting it is quite different from what I would use on a more standard camera like my a74 but I love it it creates a whole new shooting experience it is very casual and gives me more time to focus on things like composition and noticing moments I'd like to say that I really don't lose a lot of shots because of this setup it's pretty much the opposite actually I've been more excited about using the gr3 and that led me to shoot more and expose myself to more different situations to capture some nice photos it may take a while to fully adapt to this Focus distance thing and understand what one meter two meter five meter really are but I can tell you it's really worth it that's all for today I hope it was helpful to you and I look forward to read you in the comments if you're interested in knowing how I use my gr3 at night you can watch this video here and with that said and done I wish you a good day and let's catch up in the next one bye foreign [Music]

Channel: Adrien Sanguinetti

Views: 61,678

Keywords: Streetphotography, Sony, Sony a7IV, Lo-fi, Sonyalpha, Alpha 7IV, a7IV, Ricoh, Ricoh GRIII, GRIII, 28mm, Hiroshima, GR3, GR3X, GRiii x, street photography, pov, gopro, street photography tips, tips and tricks, techniques, uninspired, motivation, best street camera, best beginner camera, street photography basics, best film simulation, composition tips, get better at exposing, exposure tips, street photographers, how to shoot street, streetphotography, japan, 85mm, Sigma, a7iii, x100valternative

Id: ycEOE8Avglk

Length: 8min 20sec (500 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 24 2023