Rebuilding a Tight/Loose Pulley Jack Shaft

hello my name is Keith Rucker got a little project out here at the Museum today still working on the Vance planer matcher this is the next step in the process of getting this thing done as you guys know we've been working on the the feed assembly the feed rollers here for a while and I got all those installed the really the last big step on getting the feed rollers all put together is getting the the drive shaft that's actually powering everything installed on the machine so I got the parts here laid out just you can kind of see what we're working with as you can probably see here this is all pretty rusty pretty messy this is a what we've been working with pretty much all along on this machine these are the parts pretty much just as they came off the machine but this cast iron for the most part so it's held up pretty well to the weather and we'll be able to clean these up and and reuse them with no problem so just kind of mocked up here how we got this on the left side of the machine as you're facing it feeding boards in you got these two pulleys right here this is actually two pulleys so tight and loose pulley set with flat belts so there's a pulley that goes around or a belt that will go around this and depending on which one of these two pulleys you have it on it's going to depend on whether the the feed mechanism is engaged or disengaged the loose pulley just has a bearing in it and it will rotate on the shaft so when the belt is over on that loose pulley is free turning but the shaft is not turning there's a belt shifter that will shift the belt over it's just a set of forks when it does that it goes on to the tight fully which is a set screw down on to the shaft and when it's on that pulley everything turned so the shaft goes along these are the bearing hangers there's two of them one on each side of the machine these will have to have a Babbitt bearing Babbitt bearing or Babbitt material put in it to poor Babbitt bearings we'll be setting up to do that and then on the left side of the machine we had this little gear and this will be on the end the shaft is keyed in there and that will engage the one of the larger gears that we've already worked on and got installed and then that will have been basically power the entire feed works on the machine so project for the day is to start basically restoring this and in this case I'm going to start you out from the very beginning where we just got all these rusty messy parts you know the gears the gear here I'll just say on it it's pretty worn in fact if you look in here at the teeth about half of the metal on the teeth is actually worn this gear has a lot of torque on it you know I've debated on whether to try to make a new one of these but at the end of day it's there it was working when it was last being used this gear had held up there I can't see any breaks or anything in it so for now we're just going to put it back on there we're going to run it at some point in the future I would not be surprised if we have to do a repair or either replace this gear all together if one of these teeth break I'm probably going to replace the whole gear just because they're all so thin but for now we're going to go with it I think it'll work again you know we're going to get this machine restored the goal is to get it back into operation out here at the museum but it's never going to see the kind of production in use that saw when it was being used in a factory setting so my hope is as this gear will hold up again if it doesn't you know we'll deal with it when the time comes that's one of the things out here at the museum we're working an awful lot of really old equipment and things like this are always breaking and eating repairs as we use stuff out here so this is just another day in the life it just geared us decide to go so probably the biggest challenge for the day hopefully not but possibly so will be these uh pulleys over here again there's two pulleys in there the shaft is in there I just cut it off on this side if you look you can see it's just rusted and eroded a probably a quarter of an inch of the steel around this hub imagine if it's like a lot of the other pieces that I've worked on out here so far once it gets up inside that press warp are not actually pressed but up inside that board the metal is probably very good because it was a tight fit in there and moisture really just couldn't penetrate in but we've got to get this out and hopefully that's not going to give us too much trouble we'll loosen everything up I've actually been sucking it down with penetrating oil now for about a week I was coming out here to amuse them and just squirt it down let it soak so hopefully that's helped you know we'll just have to get in there and see what to do probably put some heat on it on the hydraulic press and hopefully those will come out without too much fuss I'm always a little bit worried when I'm pressing a shaft out of a pulley like this these pulleys are just fragile you got those folks in there it doesn't take much and you can destroy a pulley very quickly and I don't want to do that those would be hard to replace I don't we've got we got a collection of old pulleys out here at the museum that we've just kind of put together but seems like you can never find the one you need you know there's there's maybe a hundred pulleys in our collection but again you just can't ever find the one you need so hopefully we'll be able to get those off and not have any problems well have a little bit of work to do on the shaft it'll have to have a key way down here in the end which will engage on this gear and the other end the shaft they actually milled a hex on it where you could put a wrench I'm not exactly sure why that was done maybe so they could uh if they needed to back the gears up if a piece got stuck in there they could get in every wrench and do that but I'm going to probably go ahead and build that hex head on the end of that just to make it match the original so let's get started let's just dig right into this and start seeing if we can get this pulley taken apart so we'll start this is the loose pulley on this end so this end of the pulley has just a bearing inside of it probably a either Babbitt or bronze bushings in there I'm not sure yet what we'll find and then this is just a collar on the end with a set screwed that keep that pulley from coming off so let's start by trying to get this collar off somebody took the set screw that was the proper set screw in there and put a carriage bolt in there I don't like that one bit this is actually pretty dangerous because this shaft is going to be rotating at a pretty good speed and this is sticking out this is where the you know the operator could come up to and having a piece sticking up like that's very dangerous you know a set screw sticking up even just a half of an inch is something that can catch on a piece of clothing or something and wrap it up around when you have something sticking up an inch and a half like that that's just that's just dangerous so we'll obviously get this put back together with the the right set screw I don't know what we're going to run into here how you see this bolts going to come out I don't want to snap it off yeah it's not coming very easy so let's put the torch on that heat it up and see we can get it out a little bit easier that way the idea was the heat here is just to kind of 12 things up in there you know that he's going to expand that metal and a lot of times if that expansion process itself would break something loose that stuff like this but also just expanding a little bit will hopefully help that come out notice I'm trying to put the heat on the the part that's tap and not on the bolts itself but I don't want to expand the boat I want to expand the little bushing that's on here just a little prick that works a lot of times and getting off rusty parts the goals not to get it red-hot just to get it hot enough but with that vault will hopefully come out without breaking as I've restored this machine a lot of the defaults have have broken there's just so rusted and pitted that I've actually lost a lot of material in them and they just think take our lean torque at all hopefully we won't have to try to worry about having to drill this out but see what we can do ya see that just came right out I don't want to touch it with my hands these gloves have a rubber coating on them and I don't know how hot that that got maybe not too bad up there yeah okay so alright that's out now let's see we can get this get the bushing off hopefully putting that heat on there is going to have expanded this bushing enough where it will come off as well maybe not I'm just using that carriage bolt as some leverage to get this thing spinning on there all right we're getting real close on getting this bushing off what's happening is it's coming up and it's getting stuck around the top here and what it is there's some rust on there some want to hit this with the wire wheel and hopefully try to clean some of that off and with any luck it will slide right off now with some heat let's put some more heat on this and see we can get it to slide up over that now see we have any luck this time yeah it's ghosts taunting the stick once it gets up there just a little bit all right we're about to Plan C now so I've got a gear puller on this and I think what's happened is is that with the set screw was in here it's marred up that shaft on the inside and it's just a want to get a little bit of trouble pulling over that with some heat this is sliding up and down pretty good about to where that set screw is so hopefully with some heat again and putting some pressure on there pull that off this will come on off let's see what it does yeah it's coming good well ago I couldn't even turn that without the heat on it now it's just coming right off so that shows what a little bit of heat will do when trying to remove a car like this there we go I've got everything over here on the hydraulic press now so they've just got some blocks up underneath this so it's supporting the hub that's real important here is we don't want to put any pressure on the rims of the pulley are on the spokes of the pulley we want all the pressure to be on the bottom of the hub as we press down one thing I also did was this part up here with that bushing was on that we we got off I took an angle grinder and I just ground down the outside diameter just a little bit to give us some clearance in this top part here and the idea being is as I press this shaft through I don't want there to be any clearance up here once we get it past where we're starting from it's just going to be it's going to have plenty clearance to go through I don't want to have to press it this extra distance as we go down in this case is shaft I mean we're not trying to salvage the shaft so it's not a big deal if we do that on this you know obviously we're trying to save the shaft it'd be a different story but in this case of no big deal so I haven't I got just a little bit of pressure on this I haven't really tried to crank down on it one one do is I'm gonna go ahead just to be safe again put some heat on these hubs just try to expand them a little bit you know we can just get a thousandth or two of clearance in there it's going to make this press job much easier and we'll push it on through the top pulley here is the loose fully although it's it's pretty dis tight right now I mean it's stuck on the shaft so but I do have the loose pulley on the top and the type of pulleys on the bottom theoretically the bottom pulleys should be tighter than the top pulley as far as pressing off so once we get the top pulley loose I'll probably pull it off and then reach the press so let's put some heat on this and get going all right let's see what happens I just moving it's moving it's going to be so easy it looks like hopefully keep your fingers crossed not a problem let me get this top pulley off alright that's it I thought I'd show this to you guys right here this is a shaft that I pressed out of course it was much longer originally I just cut it off and we were taking everything apart because I knew it was gonna have to be replaced anyway but as we've seen throughout this project on this machine anything that's made out of steel because this machine was sitting out in the weather for so long it's just rusted and pitted just crazy and this shaft shows a good example of that so this is the shaft that came right up to the collar on that pulley the type pulley was right here the loose pulley was down on this end kind of separated about right here but you can see right up to the edge of where that collar was of course the shaft was tight inside that that that hole in the pulley in the water would come on this a shaft that we get right up next to that cast iron hub and that was as far as the water would go and you can see that over time it just pitted it away I mean we've lost a quarter of an inch of metal right there around that joint but the crazy thing is is the pitting didn't go up inside the hub that was so basically watertight and so right here you know you got shiny metal I did take a wire wheel and put on that but I mean there's no rust repeating in there at all so again this is I've said this in more than one place on the machines exact same scenario which you know a lot of people talk bad about cast iron they don't like cast iron because it's brittle or whatever but the amazing thing is is that the cast iron on this machine has held up to the elements so much better yeah there's some rust and even some slight pitting on some of the cast iron but nothing like this all the cast iron parts you know unless they're broken have been salvageable so anyway I just want to show that got to you of course this shaft here is now it would go into scrap pile over there maybe we can recycle turn something out of that at one point time but you know that's no good force on this machine we'll have to replace all that so it's taking us an hour to this morning but we've got everything disassembled now the pulleys were not as bad as I was they could have been but they did give me a little bit of trouble particularly with that collar once we got the collar off we were set to go on this so the next step is get all the stuff cleaned up and we'll take all these cast iron parts we'll put them into the bead blaster and I will sandblast everything get them cleaned up and then we can start seeing about putting everything back together and moving on we've got all of our cast iron parts sand blasting down the bead blaster blasting cabinet got a layer paint on them dry and so now we're over here getting ready to get the shaft ready for the pulley end so again earlier I showed you on this end of the shaft we've got a hex milled into it and this is so you can put a wrench on there I think it's in case you get a board jammed in the feed rollers you need to back it out you can put a wrench on this and just manually reverse it using a wrench I measured this and this is an inch and a quarter hex so we need to mill that down to that dimension the shaft is an inch and 7/8 so that's a 1.4 375 so let's do some math here one point four three seven five minus an inch and a quarter which would be one point two five that leaves us one hundred and eighty seven and a half thousands that we need to take off total but since I'm going to be taking half of it off of each side I will divide that by two and that comes up with point zero nine three seventy five so I'm going to round that up to 94 thousandths in fact I probably threw 95 thousands to give us a little bit of clearance for that wrench to go on there so that'll make it a just a few thousandths undersized which would be perfect for putting a wrench on all right so I've got a shell mill here in the milling machine I could use an end mill but I like using the shell mill it really does a good job of cutting just doing flat surfaces so I've already got this touched off on zero right here so now I'm just going to raise my table up ninety five thousands right there and I'm just using the gauge on the dial here I could have used my dro but I don't know I still like using these uh dials on here for things like this so anyway I dialed in exactly ninety five thousand sup and I see on the original shaft that goes in about eight hundred thousandths so we'll make the same depth here we're just getting there measure and get that going so let's go ahead what I'm going to do this is I'll make the first cut and then I've got some angle gauges that I will use to just rotate the shaft around 30 degrees at a time and just peel off six sides using that angle gauge so let's get started so I think what I do to get the 800,000 since I'm just going to feed this in from the end and when I touch off I'll just zero my Dro Dollard in 800 thousands I think I'll be the easiest way to do it so let's bring this table in I were touched off right there zero everything and now I can just go in 800,000 you that's about 800,000 fright there alright so that should be my first flat we'll go ahead and rotating the shaft around 30 degrees alright I've loosened my clamps where I can rotate that and will come in here with a 30-degree angle gauge and we'll drop that down on here this first one's going to be the worst one because of my cut is on the top once I get this one then I can just measure straight off the table which would be a lot easier but that looks like 30 degrees so let me snag these back up see if I can see any light behind that I don't so I think that's good and we'll go ahead and make our next cut loosen everything up again alright this time I can go off the bottom that looks like it right there tighten everything back up notice also have a stop in the front of this and that's to keep my depth the same on all these alright we're going to pull this out now measured if I need to go a little deeper I can easily put this back into the setup and make some deeper cuts so be easier to measure it off the mill though I think so we're just go ahead and pull it off and see where we're at if everything was good we should be good to go alright we pulled that out and as luck would have it we were a little bit oversized in fact about sixty thousand silver size so I musta did something wrong on my math there so we're going to raise the table up here about a little over 30 thousandths on each side should do it but I'm going to take it a little bit deeper again just to give us some clearance so let's see there's 30 and let's just go about 34 33 34 thousands up and again that should give us a little bit of clearance so see I haven't checked that angle so let's make sure we've got this in here just exactly right alright that looks pretty good this time just measured everything everything is real good my wrench fits on there just fine so we'll probably take a file and just kind of touch these up and chamfer the edges on it and I think we'll be good with our uh with the hex head there thought I'd show you where we're out here on the pulleys so again we got everything cleaned up in the bead blaster I got these painted ransom taps down these holes here on the set screws just to make sure I'm getting clean put some fresh set screws in we got this tight year is now tightly on the shaft and it's pretty much set where it needs to be the loose fully slides right up next to that and goes right up flush to it now this pulley just free spins on the shaft and again when it's not engaged to be able to be on this one that free spins nothing is engaged you shifting forward shift the belt over to this one and of course that's a tight pulley that would rotate the shaft this is a standard tight loose fully setup you find on a lot of old machines the pulley that's the the loose pulley is running very true I'm very happy with that you know there is just a tiny amount of slop in there but quite honestly when gets the ball in there that's going to be really just right so I was lucky I'm not going to have to bore this hub out and push it with bronze like I was afraid of I suspect that maybe what had happened on this machine is that they they probably just engaged the feed rollers and really didn't have it idling on the loose fully a lot because there's there's not a lot of wear in this one life there is and a lot of the other bushings that we found on the machine so that's good news no extra work there and then next thing that goes on will be the locking collar here and that just goes in place and again we put a shorter set screw in there that's a little more appropriate than that carriage bolt that was in there before it was really dangerous so that just locks in place and all that does it just keeps the loose fully captured on the shaft and that will rotate around and you just drop some oil down that hole right there and again that here here's the hex head that we put on when took it off the mill I measured it measured right my wrench wouldn't fit on there but what it was is I just had some burrs on the the corners here I took a file clean those up and you can see this is a fitting on there very nicely now so again that's a ready to go very nice so this end the shaft is uh is pretty much done we're going to just leave it mocked up like this I'm going to go ahead and get the bearing hangers installed figured out how long we need to cut the shaft and get a keyway cut into the other end for the little gear these are the bearing hangers I'm gonna put these on the machine next I just want to show you this of course so these have not got the Babbitt port in the mill we'll have to get the shaft set up on the machine everything lined and I will pour them in place but I want to show you these little holes that are drilled in here so they're on both sides there's just a little row of holes and those are locking holes basically so when we pour the molten Babbitt into this shell and we'll have some coarse a shaft to be in there that we use to pour around and we'll put some dams on the end to keep that from coming out but when you pour that in there that metal actually goes down these holes and that locks that shell that bearing shell in place where it can't rotate in the bearing hangar itself in the cast iron part so that's real common you see that on on Babbage shells all the time just a way to keep them locked in there so they can't turn on the shafts we're going to go ahead and put this bearing hanger in place hopefully this will go pretty easy not the great easiest place to get to that one started and got that one started all right I have the pulleys and shafts on this side just kind of mocked up it's laying on the laying on the bearing hanger right where it needs to go and what I'm doing really more anything else here is I'm going to go to the other side and I'm going to measure the shaft and then over on this side you can see the shaft coming out and this it is too long I knew it was but I'm going to use this and I've got the gear in place where it's going to go and I'll mark that shaft now and where it needs to be cut off and we'll do that and cut a keyway in there and have the shaft ready to go and everything will be ready to start pouring babbitt all right we're going to find the center of this shaft so I got my Center finder in there wobbler pull that over got there and hero out the DRO go to the other side we'll do this again a little bit low right there all right now what I'm going to do is trick I picked up from one of my commenters instead of just doing off of one side and final centering and moving over based on the diameter you can take some of that out so I'm just going to take the number on the Dro itself and divide it by two and that will tell me the exact center so dro is reading one point eight zero eight four we'll divide that by two and so we need to go to 0.9 0 for 2 so I'm just going to pull that over picking at the Dro 9 4 or 9 0 excuse me 9 0 4 right there that should be the exact center of that shaft will lock the table down and we're ready to start milling this key way all right we're going to cut a 3/8 inch key way in here two and a half inches deep our two half inches long so I've got it centered up we've got a 3/8 inch cutter in here so first thing we do raise the table up this touching off there now what I want to do is lower it down and fill all the way across right there I'm on a zero my height just use a scale here the Dro - on my z-axis and uh now I want to go half the depth of three eight seven three sixteenths which is a point one eight seven five 100,000 7:5 right there and I'm just going to go a couple thousand because if I have a little bit of clear with that we got the jack shaft that drives the feed rollers pretty much ready to go back on the machine everything's done here so we took the shaft milled the hex on the end cut the keyway in this sin I got the pulleys all taken apart cleaned up repainted back installed on the machine and I got the gear down here on this end cleaned up again checked our keyways everything's lining up everything's cut to length so this part is done next on the agenda will be to get all this the other shaft set up on the machine and to pour the bearings unfortunately we're going to run out of time to do that this weekend today was kind of a shortened day for me out here working I was late getting in this morning later than normal getting in this morning just because I had some family stuff going on that kept me tied up for a little while and then out here at the Museum today I spent a little bit longer than I normally do on the train engineering on the train which I usually spell our our Saturday engineer about 45 minutes or an hour at lunchtime but he had some stuff going on site and anyway it all came down to not having as much time as I'd hoped to today so next time we get out here we'll jump on getting this rabbit poured and hopefully get that done I do want to mention you guys that this coming week I'm going to be on the road traveling with work and next weekend it looks like I've got some family stuff going on it's probably going to prevent me from having any shop time so it may be a week or two before I give anything else posted up on on YouTube so bear with me I want to I want to get out here this is this is my passion this is what I love doing so it's not that I'm not filming stuff for you guys it's just a I'm going to have a little extended period of time here where I'm just not going to be able to get into the shop and do much but we'll get back on this project just as quick as we can once again thank you to our you guys for watching this thank you to all my subscribers Chivers uh we broke 4000 this past week subscribers on my on my channel which again it just blows my mind I think we hit 2000 right around January 1 so in the month of January we were able to basically double my subscription and have 2,000 more people subscribe to the channel in January so I appreciate that guys I really do and you got any questions or comments feel free to post them again like I said before the comments are getting to where I'm getting so many I really just can't respond to each and every one of them I do read each and every one of them if you ask a question or something that really needs to be responded to I do my best to try to respond to those but again if you're just saying you know good job or whatever I'm probably not going to respond to that but trust me I am reading them and I do appreciate your comments I appreciate you giving me feedback on what's going on out here and again if you have any suggestions even on how we might do things differently uh you know by all means to share those as well I shared a suggestion that I got from a reader or a commenter when I was centering up my dr the centering shaft up with on the musing the Dro by just doing both edges and averaging that out I was doing basically the same thing before but with a lot more math involved so again those tips are appreciated so with that we'll wrap this video up and we'll see you guys just as soon as we can thanks again for watching

Channel: Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org

Views: 170,335

Rating: 4.9253411 out of 5

Keywords: Machine Shop, Restoration, Vintage Machinery, Old Woodworking Machinery, Hydraulic Press, Bead Blasting, Vertical Milling Machine, Hex Head, Machinist, Georgia Museum of Agriculture, Wells-Index, J. A. Vance, Planer, Matcher

Id: SWpjdQeFeTM

Length: 40min 16sec (2416 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 02 2014