Steam Locomotive Steam Pipe Repair - Part 2: Machining a New Flange

[Music] hello Keith rock your hair videos wishing me not order the guys I'm gonna be working more on this steam pipe repair that we're doing for the Georgia Museum agriculture's and if you're not familiar with this project didn't see the first video this is a steam pipe out of a steam locomotive this 1917 Vulcan ironworks Oh for Oh narrow gauge locomotive that we run out at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture in Tifton Georgia it's a operational steam engine that we use at the Museum for various functions and we've got a problem with when the steam pipes up in the in the front and the locomotive we had this out last year doing some maintenance work on the locomotive and in the process of putting this back in they broke one of the ears off of this flange and this flange has been repaired in the past it's got some issues they took it to a local shop to have some work done to it they really just made things worse in a lot of different ways you can go back and watch the previous video to get the update on all that but I wanted to kind of bring you up to speed of where we are on the project and how we're planning on proceeding forward because I have changed my plan of attack a little bit on this and a lot of that's because of the comments and a lot of the emails and and some different things that I got from you guys out there and got some really great ideas some really great comments you guys brought up some things I really hadn't thought completely through and I told you at that time you know that was still kind of a plan in motion but it's really awesome on this YouTube venue that you can kind of get input from a lot of different people and you know kind of evaluate how you want to move forward so originally we were just going to basically try to reattach the ears and actually after I got in here and started looking at this the ears on both sides like I said they've been broken previously they've been replaced previously and they're the pieces that were put back home weren't even cast iron they were steel and you know welding cast iron I prefer to braise it it's always difficult but when you braise steel on the cast iron or weld steel on the cast iron it even adds a whole nother of complications can be done don't get me wrong but it adds complications so here's the game plan just cut to the chase we're going to just lop the whole flange off the end this I'm gonna take a bandsaw we're gonna cut this whole thing off I'm going to fabricate a new flange I've got a drawing to replace basically using the same design as the original we're gonna fabricate our machine actually a totally new flange and where you're going to then reposition the whole new flange on here and I'm doing this for multiple reasons again you know instead of just replacing the flange number place in the ears number one I really feel like that if we put a whole flange on here it's gonna be a much stronger repair I'm not gonna have any and breaks in these ears that I'm gonna have to be dealing with obviously you know anytime you've got a break no matter how good your weld or braze is I don't think it's ever gonna be as strong as it was particularly a material like cast iron then it was originally this way we've got a solid new flange all the way around this pristine there's no breaks or anything in there and so on so I think number one that's going to be good number two from a machining standpoint you know we were going to have to come in here well the ears on we're actually going to braise up this bottom that had been ground down to get the geometry right and the shape right and to get a good seat that we could put on here and you know getting the the brazing and welding part done was going to be the easy part our problems gonna be doing the machining it was gonna take a really complicated setup this this steam pipe is not something that's easy to hold on a machine it would require building some fixtures to hold it and it's just a lot of work to be able to do that going with this route I can actually do all of my machining on the flange and not have to worry about all this complicated work holding up here it's just gonna make life much easier another advantage I think to doing this is that you know we're still gonna braise the cast iron together and before with the replacing the ears we're going to have various small amount of actual braised area that the repair was going to be done braising the whole pipe to the new flange I've got a lot of area around here that for that braise to actually hold it together and again I think that the actual braise job is going to be much stronger than we could ever get out of just the pieces here and the other one of the other things I think it's going to be a good is that we're going to be getting the steel out of the equation there steel in here on these ears I would rather this entire part be cast iron through and through and not having steel in fact some of the recommendations that I got from you guys is just make a flange out of steel well we're making out of cast iron I got a piece a disc of cast iron here this is actually a dura bar which is kind of an extruded cast iron product but it is cast it's the same material or at least a very similar material to the original cast that we're doing the reason I don't want to use steel this number one again we've already mentioned brazing steel the cast iron well it can't be done it's difficult but also you got to remember this is going into the front end of a steam locomotive it's going to get really hot and there you're gonna have big swings and temperature change from you know when the locomotives idle we fire it up put it into operation you've got steam going through this pipe and you've got to think about thermal expansion and things that are going on and steel in cast iron they move differently when they're under heat the steel is going to move at a different rate it's going to expand and contract at a different rate than the cast iron by putting a cast iron flange back on here and some would argue yeah the steel would be stronger you'd be less likely to break through the ears off again I'm not so worried about that I think we got plenty of meat in here for the cast iron to hold but what's more important is that when we do that expansion and contracting thus that becomes a weak point in your Braves job it in your weld job where that will eventually can can cause those those those braze joints to fail and by putting the the same material in here on both pieces in theory anyway they're gonna move at the same rate or at least at very close race I'm sure the composition of the cast on it's not exactly the same as this but it's a heck of a lot closer than the cast iron to steel so anyway that's the game plan I've got a drawing here of the flange and that we're gonna be working off of and I'm let me zoom in here and show you that and show you the piece that we're going to be working on and let's get started making this project so first off here's the drawing of the flange that we're going to be working off ah this is basically just a copy of the original and we were able to have some drawings that we were able to base this off of original drawings as well plus copying what was already on the flange and this is more or less to scale and you can kind of see they're eight and a half inches across from one in the other I was able to find it met at me master car this piece of Durbar we were able to order this this is nine inches in diameter it's an inch and a half thick I really needed about an inch and a quarter of material but they only sold this and one inch thickness is an inch and a half so we went with the inch and a half I'd rather have a little bit extra material obviously than not enough so we're gonna basically cut this out my game plan here is if we go put this in lathe we're gonna face off one side get a nice square I'm going to find the center we'll scribe a centerline parting line whatever you want to call it who here we're not taking apart on there but basically become this line and I'm gonna lay this out blew it up with some document will lay it out we'll find the Center for these holes I'll probably go ahead and center punch them on the lathe I'm gonna lay out the whole design and then before I take it out of the truck we're gonna go ahead and drill and bore the center hole to the proper diameter we'll then take it out of the Chuck probably just going to go out and use a metal cutting bandsaw to rough out the shape of this thing we will head and get our holes drilled in here once that's done we're gonna flip the part over I'm gonna come back in we'll grab this with the Chuck on the lathe again but on the inside of this bore and I will machine the other side of the P part we'll begin face off the entire piece and I've actually have to build a little raised flames that comes up about a eighth of an inch on the other side will machine all that in on the lathe and the second operation so that's the game plan let's go get this set up in the lathe and get to work actually cutting some metal I've got this disc set up here in the three job Chuck I had to turn my jaws around so that we could grip it from the outside because of the size here but no problem with this delay this time and we got a cutter in here again we're gonna face across and get a nice flat surface to start working on here so let's just get in here and that's off and do it [Music] [Applause] I'm actually pretty happy with that that's good my next step here is I want to just come in here and put a little dimple in the middle or a sinner and this is gonna help me with laying out the park I'm just pulling a little dot there is all I'm holding right now so that's good I've come in here and I've used some Dyke um just to put some layout fluid on here because I want to actually lay this whole part out right now and we're going to do this where we can just kind of have some guidelines to work off of and again I got my drawing and the first thing I want to do is I want to draw this hold that we're going to bore that is a two and a half inch diameter so we're gonna do an inch and quarter radius and do this I'm just going to show you the first time and we'll start it one here but you can kind of feel it click in there so that's the inch and a quarter and we're just going to come in here I'm gonna go in that center hole that we did earlier and I'm just gonna scribe it in there where I can see what we're doing okay the next diameter I'm going to do is it's outside and really all I need is just these little arcs on the ends but that's a four inch diameter right here four inches across so two inches on your radius let me adjust my my dividers all right I'm just gonna go ahead and describe this as a circle even though we're not going to cut it out as a circle okay next thing I want to do is I want to put a center line through here so I'm gonna go grab a straight edge and a center finder and we'll get that so my my combination square set has this little Center finding tool in here and you know got to remember this is a cast iron it's not perfectly round on the outside but it's gonna kind of get me in here close but what I want to do is I want to make sure that I bicep the the center hole here but I'm just going to scribe a line across okay next thing I want to do is layout with the two holes here okay so this is three and a quarter inches this is a radius I'm gonna just swing over and intercept that line and I'll tell me where I need to be so again let me set my dividers here three and a quarter so I'm gonna do here so I'm just going to swing that one okay that tells me the center of those and I think I'm gonna do is just go ahead and put a center punch mark in there because I need to swing some more radiuses off of that and I'll also tell me later on where I need to drill those holes so let me grab a center punch will come in here my center punch get right on that point there's one and two all right so now I want to lay out my holes that's a one inch diameter so let me adjust my dividers down to a half inch which will be the radius of that [Music] now I want to put these outside radiuses on here and my drawing here is showing a one-inch radius I know that this is saying eight and a half inches I've got a piece of nine-inch stock and you know I've just made it a executive decision that I'm gonna stretch these out to instead of an inch inch and a quarter they'll change this outside length to nine inches instead of eight and a half I've got room in the locomotive to do it but that's going to give me some extra meat around these holes where we had some breaks before so you know it's just going to make the part a little bit stronger so I'm just making an executive decision here to do that so I'm just going to kind of put a half radius half arc on that side same thing on this side and our part is evidently just a little over nine inches which is fine and then we'll just kind of do a tangent to these two arcs here like such whoops got off a little bit that's alright you know what I went way off because I went on the wrong way let me get some document to cover that up and fixing my mistake let me just say I swear I could have heard everybody's screaming through the video no you're making a mistake but hey no problem we caught it I'm gonna fix it so let me uh get back over here put that one in there I'm just gonna roll this over now and we'll do the other side all right so hopefully you can see the the flange that we're going to cut out of there I got my layout marks and like I said we were going to go ahead now we're gonna drill and bore the center hole while we got it in here then we're gonna take this off and I'll just bandsaw it out to that diet that shape and we'll come back and finish it in a other step so let me get some drill bits and we'll start boring a hole out I'm gonna start with just a 3/8 inch hole here we've already got that Center in there from previously Italy just give me a pilot hole to start with [Music] all right that's got us through the first pass let's go up a size next year we're going up to 7/8 of an inch [Music] let me slow that down just a little bit [Music] that's real business just not cutting very good I'm going to sharpen him real quick be right back all right I grabbed a different bit and I sharpened it so all right we're through next we're going up the inch and three-eighths say that speeds going to be alright [Applause] we're up to inch in 1516 so I say we can get that out of there [Music] [Music] we're just going to bore the last little bit of this out you got a boring bar set up here in my lathe and just come in here nibble it out [Music] it should be the last pass here on the boar we're shooting for two and a half inches on the inside diameter and then have to be exact I mean the inside Python that casting is just a rough casting so it's not a reg there's probably regular safe to regular size what-have-you but according to the print two and a half inches of what we need but we're shooting for so we get this one that I think will be done with lathes work for now I've got half of the part sought out and we're starting on the second half right now [Music] the process is painfully slow but uh got to be done here Don [Music] you you [Laughter] there we go guys we got the rough shape all roughed out here and now how to do this blend it all in I probably that on grinder a belt sander or something I'll figure that out but uh and songs done how that took a while long boring tedious job but hey sometimes it's the best tool to get things done well now that we got to sing bandsaw it out I'm going to kind of smooth everything up blend all these rough sawn edges together get my everything down to size and to do that we're gonna come over here to the big baldor grinder I've got a big 5 horsepower grinder back here with almost like 14 inch wheels or something like that on it and it's got a nice wide face wide enough to do this inch and a half it's about 2 inch wide wheel let's get in here get this done we got our part all ground up on the edges now it's not a hundred percent I'll probably go back and touch up on it some more we get through doing the rest the machine work but it's good enough for right now and next thing I want to do is drill the the to one inch holes in there and to do that we're going to use the carlton radial drill i've got the setup an device on my tombstone bench down here and we'll just come in here and steer this big ol puppy right here where she needs to go I think that's where we wanted that so that's a lock her down I'm drilling a 3/8 hold start with chart here recommends a speed of 10 19 so let's see what we got close to that hey what we're go to 9 90 which is right there and that's pretty good I saw through the dome out here [Applause] we can automatically see you down [Applause] look there's Hogenson medal take her up where I can get that bid out [Music] [Applause] all right for a one inch hole in cast iron sits 382 so I'm going to come back over here there's got 350 right here here we go so we got a speed here of 350 revolutions per minute I've got my feed set on six thousands per revolution and we'll let her rule it on out [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right one side done we'll do the same to the other side turn the jaws on my Chuck back around now to their normal mode and what we're going to do is we're going to actually grip this on this step right here on the inside of that hole that we board earlier but basically we'll slide it up on here like such and I'm gonna take my jaws and we'll actually expand the chuck out until we grip that like such that should be now square with the work that we did before and we can come in here and start working on this side and it's going to be another or an interrupted cut but we can work around that my goal here is I want the total thickness of this part to be about an inch and a quarter and that's at the bottom of there's gonna be a little ring around here and then it'll be down about a eighth of an inch and then the rest of it will just be the thickness for the boss here so first thing we're gonna do is just get this thing cut down the sides I got about a quarter of an inch to come off of it again because that's just what size nominal stock we started with and then we'll machine that ring around here like we just talked about so it's far plaything get going because this isn't interrupted that I'm not gonna try to take too much off really and truly I probably ought to be using high speed steel here rather than carbide and I may switch out if we start breaking cutters so that pretty good looks like take our finish here yeah I'm real happy with that so anyway I'm gonna continue on I'm not gonna bore you with this we just got a bunch of material to hog off [Music] quick update is where we are I've got this now machine down to about an inch and a quarter thick and and I started cutting this and our cement is taking forever to get it down just kind of eyeballing it and took the measurement and I was actually greater than inch and a half after I've been machining for a while we ordered inch and a half thick material it was actually a little over insert in three quarters so it took a little bit longer to get that down than what I really thought I actually haven't measured it until just then next thing I want to do is we're going to continue facing it but I'm going to stop short and leave a circle basically four inches in diameter that's where our steam pipe ring is going to fit up on there and we need some clearance back here on the other side just that's where the original was and we're gonna make that little boss stick out about two hundred thousandths of an inch and again there's no critical measurements on any of that we're just trying to get it down there where it needs to be so get back in here actually change cutters I'm going to put a little bit of a angle on that boss that sticks up so it's not straight in and we can get this done we're getting close though [Music] stop store and I'm just going to blend leave here together [Music] in Qatar meets the other cut [Music] [Music] and I believe our flange is done the guys I got the flange all done here looks good it's like a good match up here moving me into here and kind of show you what we got so we basically just roughed out the shape on the bandsaw and granted I I knew it when I did it on the first cut I kind of got into the meet up here just a little bit it's not gonna matter it aggravates me a little bit the rest of them came out really nice it's just kind of swindle area up here but again it's not gonna matter in the grand scheme of things I'm just not happy with the way it turned out but ground out the edges I still got a few little marks in here you know we may work on those I may just let them go it really doesn't matter but what's important is is that you know this thing's gonna be a nice match to come up here holes line up everything looks good there and next the plan is we're just gonna lop the old one off and put the new one on I may have to do some more machining to this to get it to really be a perfect fit but we won't know that until we get this thing lopped off and kind of do some test fitting in the locomotive but all in all the new flange I'm very happy with it's gonna work out really just great and anyway there we go make a new flange well there you go guys that's gonna be a wrap on this episode one steam pipe flange knocked down we've still got more work to do this that's going to be in upcoming videos coming down the road we're gonna be talking we're actually gonna have to do the last part here get the old part cut off and the new part put on also going to be doing a little bit of an update on the measurement project and getting all that done got some neat things going on there as well and that's going to be coming up in future videos so stay tuned keep watching you haven't already please subscribe to my channel if you're tuning in for the first time or haven't already hit that subscribe button please do and you'll get updates on new content coming on my channel leave me a thumbs up if you liked it comments emails all those good things I love to love to hear from you guys so with that we'll be signing off thanks for watching guys we'll talk to you next round [Music] you

Channel: Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org

Views: 53,361

Rating: 4.980227 out of 5

Keywords: Machine Shop, Machinist, Lathe, Restoration, Vintage Machinery, Georgia Museum of Agriculture, Metalworking, How to run a lathe, Keith Rucker, VintageMachinery.org, Radial Drill, Carlton Radial Drill, carlton radial drill press, radial drilling machine, radial drilling machine operation, Vulcan Iron Works, Steam Locomotive, steam locomotive restoration, leblond lathe

Id: tXbJQLaZinI

Length: 31min 40sec (1900 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 10 2018