RAINWATER PUMP HOUSE FOR 28,000 GALLON WATER TANK - Slab (Part 1)

[Music] [Music] good morning good morning guys are back at it again with another video we got our new aqua mate water tank install a lot of you have obviously watched it but if you want to check out the video on the install of that and it'll be up in the cards up there I also leave a link in the description box and in the comment section below but now that we've got the tank install I can start working on the pump house so we're gonna be building an external pump house it's just going to be wood-framed and I'm getting the same sheet metal as the that's the Versa tube garage so it's gonna look very similar it's going to imagine obviously with everything but before I can run the downspouts going into the tank I want to get all this done first because the water supply lines and the conduit that's going to be going into it are going to be at a deeper depth than the pipes coming from the downspout so I want to get this done first once I at least get the pipes in there everything doesn't have to be complete and I can start back filling the trench then I can finish off the downspouts and get them right into the tank that's enough chitchat let's get started and getting started we are so whenever I'm doing threaded connections with PVC or with rigid I always use a combination of the thread tape and the pipe goop seems to work best for me and not causing any leaks I joined from aqua mate also let me know to not lose this PVC adapter because it has british threads on it and is not very common here in the states so round of applause for handy man he's using his channel locks in the correct way big round of applause another question that I had on are on the downspout video is why I'm using this kind of purple PVC glue and not the standard combination of using purple primer in cement there's actually a local code distinction so you can use this stuff and it's totally fine to use makes a great connection it just really depends on where you are and what the local codes are since we don't have any building inspections out here I can just use obviously whatever I want one thing to note is that when you're using a reducer bushing for the PVC is that you also have to get a coupling for it as well that's one thing that I always tend to forget so I have Hannah grab me a two-inch coupling I just from the local store anyways so we're going from it two inch PVC down two inch and quarter and the reason for that is just because the inlet on the shallow well pump that we're gonna be using inside the pump hose takes inch and a quarter for its inlet and I'm also trying to get this pipe pretty level it doesn't doesn't have to be exactly perfect but it's got to be level enough for government work I actually mentioned that an Instagram story and someone actually thought I was doing work for the government but that's just kind of a funny saying anyways I'm laying out the lumber that we're gonna be using for the edges of the concrete formwork so we're just using some standard twelve foot two by fours and then some six foot three inch two by fours to give us a six foot by 12 foot slab and so all I'm doing here is just taking some 3-inch screws and just screwing through the ends into the twelve foot pieces and then that gives me my perfect six by twelve slab whenever I'm designing this type of stuff I always try to design it in such a way that I'm using full sheets or full lengths of lumber so even like with the walls on top of it trying to use as many full eight foot lengths as possible just kind of makes it easier for construction so one thing that I have to be very very specific with are my distances from the edge of the slab so I've already kind of mapped out exactly how I'm gonna plumb everything and how I'm gonna wire everything in my mind so I need to get the pipes going up through the slab very specific very specific to where I want them and so this is where having a 3d model definitely comes into play I think for this project what I'm gonna do is release the 3d model and the materialist so if you want to do the same type of project then you can you can have that it'll probably be like five bucks or ten bucks or something like that but one other preventative measure that I took was actually wrapping all the PVC pipe and the pecs just with some of this black pipe wrap forget exactly what it's called but it's just ten mil pipe wrap that you can find at the hardware store I'm just with the nature of concrete I just thought it would give an extra level of protection for the pipe just so that it doesn't possibly corrode through it overtime or anything like that I mean it's only probably a quarter worth of tape so a little extra next thing that I'm doing here is I'm insulating this 2-inch PVC line coming from the water tank I'm just with some insulate of pipe wrap and for us in our area we don't get cold enough for long enough so we don't have freezing temperatures for long enough to really freeze certain sized pipes so with this two-inch pipe it may freeze the water may freeze in it but just adding this little bit of insulation tape will keep it from freezing with a half-inch pipe line it's definitely going to freeze with a 4-inch pipes it's it's not gonna freeze haven't had any issues with that so adding this adding this pipe insulation it costs about six bucks for the pipe insulation but then also it gives you some extra peace of mind that this main water line going into the pump house is definitely not going to freeze and then I finished it off with some of that 10 mil pipe wrap just because that insulated pipe rep I don't know how well it's really gonna handle it in the weather but this 10 mil pipe wrap the black stuff there is definitely gonna hold up a lot better but this actually kind of reminds me of is wrapping up or taping up a hockey stick so yeah my my Canadian assisting at because I had to do that as a kid and so now what I can do is I can start inserting my concrete stakes to hold the form boards together or exactly where they need to be so I'm doing these back to corner source because these are my two high points so it'll just make it a little bit easier to adjust the other side just by lifting them up and getting it exactly where I want so I got that backside nice and leveled off and then I can start working on the other corners here and then before I actually attach the other two stakes is that I made sure that the slab was square so it's just like a little bit off and then once you make any adjustments go back measure again and then if you have to make any more adjustments it's much easier to do this now rather than trying to do it at a later time I know for sure in the comments section below people are gonna be wondering why is the pump house so close to the water tank it frankly just doesn't need to be that far away and the further that I push it away it kind of makes it a little bit trickier for other pipes and other conduit that I have planned so that's why it's that close another thing that I do with these concrete stakes is if ik for when we're eating the concrete is that I put them below the level of the the concrete form boards and that's just because when you're screening then you don't have other obstacles to kind of go around when you're when you're screening it out and once we get this all leveled off then we can start back filling all the trench areas here so something that I've mentioned in other videos is the importance of using water especially when we're compressing the sand our soil tends to be around 30 to 40 percent clay content so when you add just a little bit of water to it it compacts so much nicer and I could really tell the difference when I was basically using the the tamper that you're gonna see in a little bit when I was tamping this fresh soil I could really compress it really well but the area that I didn't dig out it was so rock solid and all of that was compressed just with the wheels of the tractor so it definitely makes a significant difference for us for the basically how solid everything is going to be and since we're gonna be pouring concrete on top of this we want our foundation to obviously be very nice and strong we don't want any settling to happen or anything like that because I could potentially cause a failure with the concrete and for areas where I don't need to tamp and I can get the tractor it's just much easier to use the wheels on the tractor to compress things down and have to be very careful around this tank there's no way I want to put a big ding or dent in this brand new water tank it's got to just be very careful with it but getting everything nice and compacted is always really good and just based on my 3d model I know that this Peck's waterline and the calf inch conduit that's coming into it I know it needs to be about eight inches from the edge of the slab once you take into account the inch and half sheeting ledge the thickness of the wall and then the interior thickness of the plywood that it's going to be sheeted with that'll give me about a half inch gap between the wall and where the pipes are so I just use a two-by-four and then to just strop the pipes right to it now something that I thought of afterwards was actually doing a small floor drain in there now the floor drain is mainly going to be used not for flooding issues or anything like that but it will certainly help with but with one of the sediment filters that we have it's recommended that they be discharged I think every day or every other day so I'm gonna come up with a way that it can be automatically done and then the the discharge line is just going to go to this floor drain so I thought just an easy way of doing it would be to do a simple French drain and it's really important for me again just to get the distance from the edge of the slab correct just so that the wall isn't like on top of the floor drain or anything like that so I just use a two inch PVC pipe drill some holes through it and back filled it with gravel bill let me know that I might need to actually extend that pipe a little bit further because I don't know if it will be able to handle the amount of discharge that'll be coming out of the filter but it but it might be fine so if I need to fix it then I can just dig up the gravel add some more two-inch pipe to it and then we're good to go and then we can cut up all of our rebar many pieces at once here and when I'm doing a slob like this it's very easy just to find a concrete rebar spacing kind of program on the Internet so we're spacing everything at 16 inches apart from each other and then there's also a three inch clearance from the edge of the rebar to the side of the the forum boards there and so then at all the connection points I just use some tie wire just to connect everything together this project I've tried to reuse or just to use up all extra materials that I've had from other projects because I know there's different tires and stuff that you can buy that are much easier rather than having a big roll of it and doing that but yeah I just use a sailor tie wire and then I had I think about seven or eight Dobby blocks left over from when I did the culvert cisterns with Joe so I just used those up because you definitely don't want your rebar sitting on the ground as you're pointing concrete into it it really doesn't do its job while it's laying on the ground so the Dobby blocks just help you give you that space and then you don't have to worry about lifting up the rebar as you're pouring the concrete onto it because that's another way of doing it as well and then across the entire perimeter we're doing an inch and a half sheeting ledge so I'm just attaching a two inch piece or a two-by-two to the inside of the formwork there and then that's gonna give us a nice little edge for the sheet metal to slide right over and then let's kind of clean up the edge and it's the same way that we did the the garage slab so I thought we might as well do it again for this and I'm just using some 2-inch screws going from the outside to the inside and about 2x2 and when it countersinks into it then you get probably at least a good 3/4 inch worth of bite into it all right guys so we are ready to get going we're in this lab here we got our concrete we got our mixer they got all the rebar in there nice and then we also got mr. Bill again it's becoming a staple in the channel so you guys got him well over 2,000 subscribers so maybe we can get them up to 5,000 5,000 5,000 5,000 the six year old guy the old guy doing it the old guy he's doing it I mean you got to watch the old guy the old guys busting his hump to get it done I've got 60 bags of concrete I don't know if we're gonna go through all of them because that's for a 6 by 12 slab at 6 inches whereas this is probably closer to four and a half maybe five so we should have some extra which I need for other stuff so let's get started so mixing the concrete for a size for a slab this size getting a concrete truck is definitely not really worth it for such a small little area so for a size slab this small two guys is certainly sufficient what I learned when I was doing the yoga pavilion slab is that we probably should have had a third person there I doing the floating and do doing the troweling and all that doing the finish trial I'm just because this is a very time-sensitive process and especially in the dry Arizona heat here the concrete cures probably much faster than other areas so it's very time-sensitive and I'm really a big fan of this this concrete mixer because it's kind of like a wheelbarrow and concrete mixer in one so rather than rather than transferring the concrete into a wheelbarrow and then pouring it in you can just pour it in right from the cement mixer so I think the brand is Cushman or cush Lenoir something like that I think I just got it at Home Depot but it does a nice job and we can do two bags at once and just pour it directly right in there we've got our water we've got our kind of basic water recipe we have a three gallon bucket with some lines on the inside and so we just use that just to make sure that we're trying to get a consistent cement mixture we definitely don't want it too wet we definitely don't want it to dry just right in the middle that nice kind of concrete soft-serve so probably one of the most satisfying parts of doing concrete is when you start screwing things across and you can really start to see how nice and flat everything is so we screed at this first section after I think we did 20 bags or so I'd probably recommend doing the screening just a little bit more often maybe after every 10 or 15 bags but one thing that we would do is that or one thing that we did here is that we would screed across clean up the edges and then go back and screed it again just because sometimes when you're screening across from the concrete can get under the screed board and then it kind of raises it up a little bit so if you do a couple passes there I think you're gonna be much more pleased with the results we're definitely not concrete experts or anything like that so I'm sure people in the comments will let me know how we're messing things up but at the end of the day it turned out exactly how we want it turned out really nice and the concrete process certainly gets kind of tedious so it doesn't make some bags pouring it in there mixing bags pouring it in there floating it and then getting the finished child down but for this I mean it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect but it's just it's really just got to be good enough so bill and I were just finishing off we're just kind of floating the last little bit here and then we'll go across and secrete the final little piece here I can take that eighth inch or nine and a half inch piece of wood that I had in there earlier because basically those pipes aren't gonna be moving from where they are we can finish screeding things off and then what I did just to finish things off was put a piece of poly on it to actually slow down the kurung process because it is summertime here and while it is kind of humid it is actually it's recommended to kind of slow it down because you don't want the concrete to cure too fast and cause any cracks or anything like that a little tip for getting these concrete sticks out just hit it with a hammer on both sides and then you should be able to lift it up and then we can just pull off the form boards and then we're looking real nice alright guys so the slab came out pretty nice there's this a few places specifically on that corner and two places on that side right there where I just didn't push the concrete down enough or try to float it underneath that sheeting ledge there it doesn't really make that big of a deal since we're just gonna be setting the sheet metal panels on it and there were thirty six inches wide so it's really not a big deal I don't know how many days maybe somebody can answer me this how many days should I wait for this to fully cure until I can start drilling anchors into it because that's how I'm gonna be securing the walls to this so I know right now obviously it's still gonna be a little bit still gonna be a little bit wet inside so let me know how many days I should wait before I can start building on top of it and turned out great awesome that is part one this is probably gonna be a part three part series so the next part is gonna be building the pump house walls and then probably the third part will be doing all the plumbing and stuff on the inside awesome guys thanks so much for watching we'll catch you on the next video talk to you soon [Music]

Channel: Handeeman

Views: 252,453

Rating: 4.9030442 out of 5

Keywords: derek howlett, handeeman, diy, how to, maker, rainwater, rainwater harvesting, pump house, arizona, rainwater system, rainwater harvesting system, rainwater collection, off grid, water tank, aquamate water tanks, desert

Id: c_yXDVBZ8VY

Length: 17min 19sec (1039 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 29 2019