R19 Tips and Tricks when Using the Tstud™: Updated

hi I'm Brian Everson I'm the tea stud guy this video is for carpenters architects designers probably everybody fit into that mix I made a separate video for electricians and I made a separate one for plumbers okay so I'm gonna try to run you through everything that I can possibly think of here in a few minutes on how did how to build with the T stud so simply two by six two by four take those throw them to the side put your T put your T stud in these are certified to hold roughly 2200 pounds if it's a number two not a stud great I don't know what they are two by four number two is certified to hold about nine hundred pounds we're certified to hold eight thousand six hundred so when you're out there framing and you need to calculate your loads coming all the way down just remember that if you're gonna try to use as much of this design value you have to make sure that we don't crush this plate this plate a number two plate SPF will crush that thirty-six hundred pounds so you can get by with a whole lot less studs in your in your house or in your building structure whatever it is that your your whatever it is that you're going to build if you use the T stud every structure we've done so far is that twenty four inches on center except for one shear wall in Colorado twelve feet tall we ended up being 12 inches on center okay so we've done pretty good value added is going 24 inches on center okay so these crushed at 3,600 pounds when you start framing your wall what I want you to do is start out every wall with the two by six and end every wall with the two by six these are significantly cheaper than an engineered stud so if you start out your wall and you have an uplift connector that uplift connector is is big right sits like a palm you nail the living daylights out of it or screw it on and it stops the wall from being able to lift up obviously we don't have those design finalized yet for a tee stud and frankly these are cheaper anyway it doesn't make any difference on the energy efficiency of it if you start out with a two by six so just use them framing the two different ways to do this okay 2x6 top plate bottom plate standard that's easily easily done or you can use a tea stud for the top bottom plate just kind of depends upon what your client wants money is a factor return on investment is a factor and so if you're LEED certified you're trying to go for a score or if you are a passive house or a NetZero kind of person yep the tea stud finishes out the entire story and you get a complete thermal break through that whole entire assembly obviously except for where the doubles come across okay we're gonna talk about the standard two by six top and bottom plate first you still have to have two nails in one side and one in the other because it's five and a half inches deep you're King stud and Jack stud screw them together because the three and a half inch nail doesn't work right you have to have one inch of embedment not including the point of the nail so screw these together off to the side and off you go when you're putting your header into place what you got to make sure is if you if you use a tee stud for header or if you if you do a built up header where you have foam in the middle this is a two by ten LSL hitter with foam in the middle this will sit on top the tee stud and it'll be bearing with your jack stud on the front and the back but some of you nail your headers together to two by 10s or LSL and nail them together and then they insulate from the front side or the back side so one of those headers is gonna sit on top of the phone so if that's the case or if you have a triple header one of those headers will sit on top of the foam and the foam obviously can't carry a load so then what you end up doing is is you cut your jack stud short and build a squash block that sits all the way across the top and I would build that out of LSL or lvl so that when you nail it on top it doesn't split on your two by sixes they're gonna split half the time you're gonna get frustrated with it so just use a piece of LSL or lvl for all your squash blocks and off you go okay otherwise frame like you normally do okay so that's that every corner put a nailer in this wall actually goes the other direction so here's your nailer for your drywall and when you build your other wall starting in front of it and coming out you end up with a complete thermal break all the way behind so makes a mix for energy-efficient structures okay so that's that wall assembly the T stud wall assembly that I have here is the T Center for the top and bottom plate you end up having to you're going to have to cut your studs half inch shorter because a t stud for the top plate and a t stud for the bottom plate we're a half inch taller and four as we start out here we're not gonna send out and chip out a whole another set of skills for our stud links that are a half-inch shorter so I'm gonna apologize in advance okay cut them off a half inch shorter or your wall assembly is going to end up in an inch taller because your stud studs are coming out at ninety two and five-eighths or a hundred and four and five days 116 and five days plus the T stud top and bottom plate is an extra half inch taller so your whole wall assembly actually is going to be a half inch taller okay otherwise there's no difference okay in for the plumber the plumber is the tough one okay so in this in this case I have a kitchen window is what I'm trying to replicate right here and that plumber needs to run a vent horizontal through the studs when you're framing one one stud you're not gonna see the dowels at all and the other side you're gonna see them what I would tell you to do is the whole entire house we don't care which way they go in left or right it doesn't make any difference turn them however you want but if you got the if you know that there's a vent going in for by the kitchen window or hot tub or in the laundry room you want to make sure that you line up all your dowels going across so that that plumber goes all the way across and doesn't have to drill through one of our dowels you only get one broken doll per stud in an entire structure so don't do that we've no everybody's missed them because they listen to the video right everybody everybody everybody missed them except for one though we had one plumber hit seven of these in the same structure he had to have aimed that's all I got that's it he had to have aim okay if you're using the T stud for the top plate there's a couple of fasteners that you have to be aware of this one right here is a RT a 2 z RT a 2 Z is a Simpson product this is an inside so fastens on to the inside and off you go okay but the outside one is where the strength comes in a standard strap nine fasteners one way nine fasteners the other put it on to the outside to hold your whole entire wall assembly together and that's how you hold your top plate together because you only you only get one top plate if you're doing advance framing with a two by six only just a single two by six you have to line up all your studs all the way across when you're using a t stud you don't have to line them up you can go as much as five inches one way or the other from the stud in case you screw up with your trust layout okay so but this is the connector that you have to use to hold your top plate and bottom plate together and obviously a standard uplift connector to hold down your trusses so that's that the electrician's like us they run around with a half inch bolt carriage bolt in order to pound through all their wires that works pretty nice if somebody does cut a double one up lift connector on below it one above it and you've replaced the one so that's how fast that goes okay that's all I got for you you

Channel: Thermal Studs

Views: 10,389

Keywords: tstud, green building, construction, building, passive house, thermal break, zip-r, hubert, simpson, lumber, building supplies

Id: 7qifrGWouBU

Length: 8min 46sec (526 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 02 2020