Pull Gear Speed Reducer - Thanks to Mr Pete Part 3

today it's Prez are here and welcome back to episode 3 of the pool gear built and I must say that since the last episode this thing has just gone off I owe a debt of gratitude to mr. P because he linked to my build video from his restoration video and that's given me access to all of his viewers so that was great and I did comment to mr. Pete that we were sort of working on the same project concurrently but just approaching it from different ends so whereas his restoring one of these devices I'm actually a re-engineering it and rebuilding it from scratch and it's interesting to see as he reveals the interior components of this that it does actually look similar to what I'm doing I had to work off the paper drawings which don't show a lot of detail in fact there's a lot of differences between the patent drawings and the finished commercial article and one for example is that the drive gear which fits on this section here on the original that gear was actually cut as part of the shaft and on mine I've got a separate gear that's going to go over this section here I think it's going to work and I've had a lot of comments from viewers who suggested that you know the strength of this thing is important that it what a load on it belt slippage could be a problem and one of the issues that mr. Pete alluded to in his video was that this thing is basically air and oil slinger and I understand that and I taken steps to try and avoid that so one thing I have done is I've machined a recess around the edge of the ring gear and on the inside of the cap there's a lip so that when these two parts go together the lip fits over that recess as you can see that so in effect there's there's no direct path between the interior and the exterior where the gap is now I thought I was being really clever and I thought that's gonna solve the problem but then I realized that any oil that gets Sonic it's this lip here the edge of that lip is going to run down and it will end up in the bottom of the recess and then the next time you start this thing out that oil will get flung out as well so maybe it's just delaying the process of the oil getting through there I'm not sure however we'll find out when this all goes together some people have asked if I'm going to release the drawings of this and yes I will I'll make the CAD model available and also the 2d drawings but as I'm going along I'm sort of modifying things and changing things and I keep updating the 3d model to take into account those changes one thing that I found was the this boss on the top here I had much larger and when I drill through the holes for the four starts would support the planet gears the inside set of holes was going to interfere with this have a guy over here so I've reduced that and I've adapted the drawing to suit I also didn't think to fit a brass bush at the top here and you can see here the diameter of this shaft as it protrudes through the top of the cap is quite a bit smaller than diameter of that bore there so it's son it's coming along I think that mechanically it's going to work my worry now is that the actual talk if I give this down four to one the talk might be too much for the polyb belt and it's going to slip now that in itself I'm not sure as a bad thing some people have suggested that I should have used the toothed belt but with those you absolutely get a positive Drive and if the drill bit was to hang up or catch you don't get any opportunity there to hang on to the part it's going to start spinning at least with a poly via or v-- belt drive you know there's a real disaster the belt will slip and you've got a chance of avoiding some nasty injuries alright so in this episode we're going to go on with the most critical part is drilling the four holes for the planet gears and making sure that I get all the clearances correct and if that all goes well then we might be able to see this thing running so hang about standby so he may have remembered that I said I was going to try and drill these gear centers into a piece of scrap stock and I've got a piece of three millimeter thick aluminum sheet here and I've got one of these thin path biases on the CNC mill this piece of timber here is just to support the stock when I drill through and the thin part bias has nothing more than l-shaped bracket this one's made of cast aluminum alloy and there's a rebate in one end of that L shape and the other end has a moving jaw with a matching rebate and there's a fixed block which is like a jacking block or ax or fixed your if you like or a fixed point from which you can drive that moving door along so they stop sits in the rebates and then you push it up hard against the back of the l-shaped bracket there and then lightly lock down this moving jaw and then use your jacking screw to provide some end pressure you're gonna tire to do it this is really just to locate this piece and using this method you don't have anything like clamps or any protrusions above the surface of the stock so there's less chance of crashing the tool into anything while you're traversing backwards and forwards so this is really good food you know drilling hole patterns in flat Scott okay well in theory they are my gear centers so I'm going to take this out now and I'll drill and tap correct size for those studs which hold the gears this Center position here I'll just drill out and ream and I'll make a little arm like a spigot to go for the gear the simple Sun gear okay well here is the part that we just drilled on the CNC mill and what I've done is I bought out these holes 9/32 and then I've tapped them 5/16 by 40 which is a model engineer thread but if you were doing this she could use any thread really doesn't matter the interior hold a center hole here I've read are millimeters and I've mounted the Sun gear on a little spigot and it has an eight millimeter pin on the end there so I can rotate the Sun gear in that plate now this is this is all just a test whether we've got the whole center's correct okay so each of these little studs is going to get driven into that plate and remember that all of these hole positions were taken straight off the CAD model and I'm no engineer so all I could do is look at the information I could get on the website where I bought these gears which included the pitch diameter of each gear and I've added on a 0.2 millimeter clearance or backlash if you like and that should give us like a smooth running gear and now the gears should mesh cool so we get that we get that a mesh nicely and yep it's just the tiniest little bit of backlash you'll play that which is good now a sixty four million dollar question will the Sun gear fit in there yes yes oh we haven't funneled what okay now the next thing the ring gear should engage on these two out of gears here so let's see what see use this way just give me a minute all right gonna get some Lube on this and some people are question whether I should be using grease or oil I don't know what the rotational speed of these gears is going to be and I'm sort of thinking that probably grease will just melt and provide a lot of drag so I may end up just using a good quality lubricating oil okay just for fun yep spread oil everywhere okay so let's just see if this goes in here now remember there will be a bearing in here later onto a line this shaft at the moment I'm just sort of having to wing it and try to get it correct yep that's it so in theory now why don't I just put something on it here so I don't damage it so the theory is that if this top plate would have be held stationary and we draw at the center spindle the ring gear and the lower half of this pulley assembly should rotate in the same direction as the spindle with roughly a four-to-one reduction so here we go yes now I'm not gonna lie to you I already set this up and I checked it because I didn't want to look like an idiot on camera if it didn't work and when that happened the first time I literally ran around the workshop clutching onto my willy I was that excited so this gives me some confidence to move forward and also the confidence to drill that same pattern of holes in this part here the important thing is going to have to be that I get this Center ball here absolutely perfectly aligned and on the CNC mill I've got a probe that I can use to find out but I think I'm going to check it with the dial indicator as well and if that's all good I can just go ahead and drill the same patter holes no worries because we do not want to make any mistakes with this and you know do I make mistakes well hardly ever okay with that gear train working now the next step is to replicate that whole pattern in the pulley cap casting which I've got set up here now and the next step is that I've got to get this Center position exactly coincident with the the ball in the pulley cap and if I get that wrong and the gears won't operate smoothly so I've got my probe set up here and I'm going to probe that at larger diameter hole work out its Center and then I'll check up to the dial test indicator I'm using Mac's standard mill as my operating software and it's got lots of different probing options but the easiest one is the profile Center so I'll go ahead and do that should produce hexie from right to left [Music] she's now proving why and now pry the necks again just get rid of any era [Music] all right that should be the exact center of that ball and in max down to mill it shows that winder that bore there is thirty five point zero two millimeters it's probably closer to thirty five or thirty four point nine nine but I'm pretty confident we're pretty close so just to be absolutely sure now I'm going to set up a dial test indicator and run it around that hole and make any minor adjustments I'm not sure didn't see that but I got my very expensive Mitch youto go dial indicator set up there and I initially used the probe to find that ball center set the dial indicator up and I found it wasn't right it was about point maybe point one of a millimeter out which was nowhere near as good as I thought it would be I mean that's an expensive probe too so maybe I need to recalibrate that that got me fairly close and this is sort of dialed in now and I've got that running in ceará pretty much all the way around so I'm happy with that all right I got my spotting drill set up in there and I sent my zip to zero at that point so it's clear those clamps and I'm just gonna run this program on a single step mine and I'll use the quilt to lower the drill bit I'm just going to take very very lot picking cuts in this this set up you know it's pretty good but I'm not sure that it's going to withstand any heavy drilling process [Music] all righty just screw it up you wouldn't believe it that's drilled into the hole where the pin has to go Dan okay well here we have another one my famous cock-ups and what I need to do now is set this casting back on the table but this time get the slot at 90 degrees the front of the mill table rather than parallel to it so well I can think Ivers I've jammed a piece of key stock into the slot and I'm using a little t-square just to align that and I can then lock that down and go through this whole process again so yep it's all going well I thought all my troubles were behind me evidently not what a laugh okay so here we are set up again can I cover up my mistakes probably not that hole is going to drive in nuts maybe I can fill it with a plug or something the other hole where the pin goes through the side here let's call that an air escape hole or an air vent air vent sounds good okay so we're going to try and drill this same hole pattern again this time with the correct orientation relative to the slot [Music] well all that's done now that's messed up it's not much we can do about it so I'm gonna change out for 9/32 drove it well drill was out tapping saws and then we'll cut our threads [Music] okay so let's get these started with the tapping the machine so I'll Drive the tap to each one those whole positions get a going finish off by hand I've turned the pulley cap over and another feature I want to include here is a pair of tapped holes so that I can insert 10 millimeter Paul stud and that will allow me to get this cap off later on if I need to do any internal adjustments on the original Paul gear there was no facility for doing that that was one of the reasons why mr. Pete had so many problems getting his apart so just think he had a bit I thought I'd add that feature and you know what they say but ain't broke it doesn't have enough features yet so I'm going to just manually drill or spot drill my two positions which are going to be 30 millimeters either side of Center sort of 45 degrees across that center line and I'll drill and tap and spot face I'll just do this really quickly so you can see it but it's it wasn't worth setting up a CNC program to do this it's just two locations and just changing our drill bits I'll do the other one on this side and I'll show you the whole operation with this one so it's pretty easy to see [Music] so I'm just gonna swap this out for a 10 millimeter end mill to make a sort of a spot face so that when I start my tapping drill its not gonna be starting on the sloping surface here [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so I'll get a 10 mil top starter in there and this will allow me to actually put a bridge across the top of this pot and I extract the screw down the center and I should be I'll just lift that whole cap off without sort of jamming anything underneath that cap or you know destroying it in any way I'm going to take this off now and let's get everything fitted inside the guts of it see how I go one of the last jobs I need to do in this shaft is to mill an 8 millimeter wide slot in two directions so one in y direction one in X Direction one of those sites needs to be 10 millimeters deep yellow and only needs to be one millimeter deep and if you watch mr. Pete's video he'll show you how that latch can be either inserted into the deeper site or lift it up and out of the top of the pull gear and it just rests in this narrow ass lot more than the shallower slot I should say and I couldn't think of another way of doing this I've got this cinema for jaw chuck because it had a ball big enough to take the bottom of the shark both my other chucks the smaller ones at least wouldn't allow that to fit down into the body of the chuck and just because of its shape it's it's really difficult to grip and I wanted to minimize the overhang from the top of the Chuck so don't get too much chatter when I did this cut I've dialed that in with my meet you Togo indicator and I have zero my digital display at zero zero which is directly at the center of the shaft so I should be able to just Traverse backwards and forwards in Y I've locked the table down in X get my ten millimeter depth and then come back to zero and do the other cut in X and a millimeter deep so I know it looks super dodgy there yeah it'll work so I've got one of the clients resting on top of my advice the other one resting on the table and I've tighten that down and I've aligned the part so the key way that holds the gear on is against one of the jaws and I've aligned the other jaws with the back of the middle so not that it needs to be super precise it's more cosmetic than anything else but I did want to make sure it wasn't just a random setup I think that cutter is really blood so it's going to change that I've got a new carbide one somewhere I'll just swap it out for a seafood table I and increase the speed a bit that's better [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay well that's 8 millimeters deep and I've just starting to rethink this whole design on this end there's not a lot of material left at the top here and if I was cut made by only a slight across that again in the x-direction there wouldn't be much left so what I'm thinking about doing is cutting a much narrower slot this secondary slot is really just to hold the latch up out of position and stop it spinning and if I cut say a three millimeter slide across there that would be enough to hold the light sharp out of its position I've cut a corresponding three millimeter deep groove in the y-direction as well so the latch will sit down where it's supposed to so I'm just gonna I'm just gonna stop here now and I'll have another look at the design sort of getting late in the afternoon this is the material I cut little latch and it's sort of a nice free fit in there which is sort of what I want so when I come back tomorrow we'll see how we're going to finish this off and it's soft in a case where you're sitting here modeling this thing on a computer and he just pulling figures out of the air instead of looking at how it appears on the screen when you see it in the flesh actually made out of metal you realize that you may have gone a bit too small with the diameter I haven't considered how much strength this part needs at the top and you tend to sort of design in the fly and that's why I said originally I would I would release the drawings for this but not until I've actually made all these little changes well I had a meeting last night with the chief engineer the designer and the manufacturer and we've all agreed that we're gonna cut this slot to nine millimeters deep it's eight at the moment the one millimeter remaining is going to be cut to three millimeters wide and then a three millimeters slight cut across in the x-direction at the top and that very shallow three millimeter wide slot is just a hole to latch up out of position and stop it rotating on its own so go ahead and cut this one millimeter deeper and then we'll swap out to the three millimeter cutter and do the rest of the cutting process so as nice to have meetings with myself in the evenings [Applause] [Music] [Applause] okay so that takes care of the 8 millimeter wide slot so we'll swap out now and do the little skinny one [Music] that takes care of the bottom of the main slot so now I'm going to reset to zero zero and do our cross slot any millimeter deep [Music] okay deburr all of that and then we have to modify this little latch to suit so it's going to need a so three millimeter wide reach in the center there so I'll need to take a rebate out of either edge to match that three millimeter wide slot so there is the finished slot deburred all of that so he's going to make the latch to suit one of the last operations I need to do on this pulley is to provide an access hole for this scrub screw this is what locks the spindle which is the the main drive unit for this poor gear to the motor spindle shaft so when this spindle is in position it's sort of up in there and the only way to get at that grub screw is through the side of the pulley so this is one of those super super critical operations so if I get this wrong I just won't be able to get the grub screw tighten it up onto the motor shaft so I'm relying entirely on the CAD model to get this part right and it shows on the cab model that I need 21.5 millimeters from the edge of the pulley and that's where the access hole would be so that's the hex key that I've got to use it's a little bit less than four millimeters across the corners of the hex and I've got a four millimeter carbide end mill in the Chuck here so I set this up using my probe and before I wind up here I'll actually show you the probing operation I used to find exact Center at this part which is super super cool so let's go ahead and provide that hole and just just hope we got it right [Applause] [Applause] okay that's not completely true but I don't want to tempt fate by breaking off that carbide bit swap out to a drill bit okay and I'm theory that should give me access to that grub screw if I press everything together correctly so on I'm just gonna put the probe back in and just show you this operation because I was really impressed with the way that work okay so I have my probe set up over this outer diameter here and it really doesn't matter which diameter you use but smallest one means less travel for the probe so initially I put this part in the vise and I lined up the probe by eye to get it just three four mil above the surface of this conference here in Zed and roughly in the center of the diameter measured that diameter it's 50 millimeters and I'm going to use Mac standard mill to probe the X distance here to locate the exact center so this is Mac standard mill now if you already own Mac 3 you've probably seen yourself why would I pay extra for this because essentially it does sanjeok so you can see here that in the run screen you've got all the usual controls that you'd see in Mac 3 so you g-code appears here you got your run stop rewind etc there's a screen here where you can load g-code you can do all your tooling with this pretty much the same thing however when you go to the work coordinate offset screen you find that you've got a whole bunch of different options here for probing so if I scroll down through these these are you know the typical probing operations finance center of its circular pocket but you can also do a square pocket you can do a circular post and a square post you can also probe in Z to find the surface if I go forward to this one you can also probe in X Direction inside a pocket or in Y you can do up and over type probing and we get to this one which is the one I'm going to use now I'm going to use this operation which is called B Center so a probe down and said find the center of the circular circumference then we'll probe in X come down find the center then probe cross to the right locate the edge back up and over and so on does that twice in order for it to know roughly how far it has to travel you can put in a diameter hint so in this case I put 52 so I know the diameter is 50 and over here you can see that there are a whole bunch of different options for probe speed feed rate in this case I've got 200 millimeters per minute as my fast feed rate you can put in an optional slow feed rate so we'll probe the second time at a slower feed rate you can put in different clearances and so on so all in all it's sort of a you know for me anyway it gives me all these different options didn't have previously okay let's see if we can break the probe okay I just found said it's gonna probe down about half the debt okay I just found pics from the lids now it's going to find external rights [Music] and it repeats that process so if they lost in the era the first time you set it up it cancels out that era the second operation it does now it's sort of roughly knows where it is and he may have noticed the second time at probes instead it goes much deeper that she knows where the center line is okay so that's the center in X and the other thing I had to do is to find the edge of this circular face here so there is a probing operation for doing that as well so if we go to the next screen you'll see that there is a probing operation here for y so it will just simply if you press the green arrow here we'll just simply move in touch that edge and zero off Y if you press the screen space up here it will come down find Zedd move out down and back in again to find y so yeah Mac standard mill it's not expensive I think I paid about $80 Australian for this but to me anyway it's worth it well that's what I give you a progress report before I finish up this episode on the top of the pulley cap now you can see that I've got my two 10 millimeter threaded holes and these can be used to extract this old casting off the top of the the rest of the unit and these four holes here will eventually be fitted with a brass ball oiler so I can inject the oil down through there studs to the idler gears also got the eight millimeter slot cut across the top multiple e cap now and that allows with a latch to fit into that and that's going to lock the drive okay the I guess the more exciting development was getting these idly gears in place and you recall I have to drill this pattern of holes and that was super critical if I got that wrong none of these gears would mesh happily that turned out okay at this point I think we need to get our alternative facts straight though this hole is not a mistake that's an air vent this hole is not a mistake that's a lightning hole to balance out the rotational mass just in case anybody asks okay however let's have a look at this part now these are the studs and what I've done is I've fitted a a brass shim washer okay let's just see if we can show you that brass shim washer there it is and what I was concerned about here was that the spur gears would be rubbing on this casting as they spin so this little brass shim is really just to keep the spur gear clear at the casting and I can tighten those scuds using a cross hole so when I do finally assemble this for good I'll Lock those studs down hard and I'll probably put some Loctite or something in those holes or at least a thread lock and as you can see the spur gear does mesh quite nicely in fact all the gears mesh nicely which was a big surprise to me I was pretty sure I was gonna mess that up on top we got the bronze washer and then we got our cap screw which locks the spur gear onto its shaft now this might need a little bit of fitting to make sure that when this is locked down really hard those spur gears still spin freely that one's a little on the tight side so I may have to just do some adjustment there but I'm happy with that so that was a bit of a milestone when I got that all working I was I was quite happy also the four idlers now fit inside the ring gear and although you can't see it deep down inside there I can see those spur gears spinning it sounds weak rindy but eventually there will be no contact between the pulley cap and this bottom casting here okay other developments I've got the locking screw fitted now that's the grub screw that will lock this to the motor shaft we finished off the slot in the top of this spindle and you see now that the latch has its groove running down either side and that will either lock into that position or when it's rotated it locks into the 3 millimeter groove on top and that will just simply keep that in position so it's got no tendency to spin around and drop back into the latch unexpectedly ok a plunger fits up inside there and when the latch goes through that I've still got to figure out some way of fixing the latch to the plunger but at the moment that's all good I'm happy with that I also have a set of spaces now when I originally designed this the the bearings were just simply pressed onto this shaft and there was no actual positive location for those bearings so with these spaces which are just an iminium they'll be slid on there and then the bearings will slide up to each spacer and that's going to keep everything accurately aligned inside the big castings so those bearings going on ok they'll be pressed on eventually or I may heat them I'm not sure yet but pretty happy with that and the other thing that I made off camera was bronze Bush and that's going to fit over the top of the spindle it's still a little bit on the tight side I need to do some adjustment there and the same Bush will fit up inside the casting the cap there so that's just an extra bit of alignment and the only other thing that I did was to make the key which holds that spur gear in place so I've got a piece of 5/32 key stock and I milled a slot for the key in this diameter here which which is where the spur gear will fit over and we've got our matching key way in the spur gear and that all goes on that's got a tight press fit eventually and once again there's nothing really locate that other than friction so when it's all assembled I'm pretty sure that's going to be okay so we're getting to the point where it's all gonna go together and I'm gonna wind this video up here because it's got to that 35 40 minute mark and I noticed last night that you will Kane or mr. Pete has tested out his Paul gear and from what I saw it was a success sounded like a bag of hammers but I think his being quite old as fairly worn the spur gears themselves were properly a bit notchy but I think his consensus was that it did actually do what he was hoping which was to increase the torque lower the speed and I think he was using 25 millimeter drill bits in 20-mile 25 millimeter thick mild steel and there were a couple of occasions when the belt slipped and I'm expecting that too but all-in-all I reckon it's going to be an improvement so thank you very much to all the people who have written comments I've taken on board a lot of those one in particular was this idea of hitting these threaded holes with the pool starts that was not my idea somebody else came up with that and lots of encouragement from lots of different people so thank you very much and I'm gonna see you on the next video and for now thanks for watching oh wait I almost forgot I'm sure what you're really wanting to know is does it actually buddy work well what's this drop that in there and come on here it goes hey so yes it is driving that around a little bit awkward hole but it's working so stay tuned for more

Channel: Mark Presling

Views: 12,735

Rating: 4.9940653 out of 5

Keywords: Pull Gear, Mr. Pete, Speed Recucer, gears, poly vee belt drive, metal maching, diy, DIY, Epicyclic gearbox, sun and planet gears, Mach Standard Mill, CNC, milling machine, lathe work

Id: F5fgfGVnHP0

Length: 44min 29sec (2669 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 15 2018