Prusik, Auto Blocks, and Klemheist Break Tests

how strong is a prusik a climb heist or an autoblock we're gonna test all three friction hitches today in different diameters so we're gonna probably bite off more than we can chew so stay tuned [Applause] [Music] hi my name is ryan jinx and welcome to another slacksnap episode we're going to pull test process on a nine point how big is that row hold on on a 10.5 millimeter dynamic rope and we have different diameters of process loops uh this is a hollow block that's the brand of this one and we're going to test the different diameters and we're going to test three knots and it's a lot information so i'm going to organize that in the description below so if you just want to see the results you can go down there but please hit the like button if you're not going to watch the whole video we also have time stamps in case you want to just skip to your favorite part anyways let's get it over there so here's our slack snap machine where we use a soft release to hold a hydraulic that is stabilized by paracord and is extended with soft shackles and we already have a setup with our dinos to the other side and so this is our lab here so let's first show you how we're going to tie the knots so we'll first start with the prisic this is going to be our finished product so you want to just put the knot off to the side because that's where the carabiner will clip and you're going to go through itself three times like so and dressing it is very important that is a prusik friction hitch right there okay so a climb heist is the next one and that is where you offset the knot again we're gonna go up the rope here with three wraps and put that through there and we're gonna want to make this close as possible dressing these is very important okay so that is tight up against there and then we pull down on it that is the one i end up using the most when i'm repelling i like that one a lot so an auto block is similar in the fact that you go up three times as well but uh you just end up clipping let's go around one more end up clipping just both of these together sliding that up and that should hold let's find out what the breaking strength of my finger is so the general rule is you want three wraps with a diameter of rope that is three millimeters or less of the rope you're wrapping and we all know what i like about rules test the limits of them on the select snap so let's get started we'll start with the smallest diameter we'll start with a paracord four millimeter and work our way up or down depending which way you're going up the rope where you find these is either in a hall system i back up my atc repels with these sometimes i agree repels if i'm scared and also a poor man's backup harness so there's all sorts of uses that it's pretty nice to be able to grab a rope from friction rather than like a toothed device like an ascender let's just see how strong they are because when i'm repelling i'm always wondering if it would actually hold me if it was the only thing [Music] climb heist on four millimeter [Music] auto block on four millimeter cord she's slipping at 1.34 this is only to add friction not completely stop and hold you interesting what if we add more wraps so we have the auto block with four wraps [Music] ah she's slipping again at 5.32 higher oh interesting because you're pulling on both these ends rather than it's like a loop doubled rather than like a loop single so here is a loop doubled so this is technically the strength of four strands minus knot loss and it's 550 paracord which means it's 550 mbs 550 pounds of course and here's paracord in a loop [Music] press it with five millimeter cord [Music] four point five six climb heist with five millimeter cord [Music] slipping at 3.3 we did get it up to 6.3 but i don't think this is gonna break so this got welded shut this is the climb heist with five millimeter and this is welded dang gnarly for consistency we're doing the prusik one more time with the same material as the last one [Music] it uh it broke and didn't slip like the other one autoblock with five millimeter cord wow that is slipping at 0.36 autoblock with five millimeter cord wrapped four times ropes rubbing on ropes is bad you create nylon saws what i'm curious about is the fact that the green rope is touching a different spot all the way through but this is the same spots touching over and over but it's not cutting through this rope or accessory cord why do you think that is put that in the comments below because just seems counterintuitive it is interesting how much of a difference we're getting between slippages with different knots or how many different wraps literally just got point three with two or three reps and three point something with three or four wraps with the same cord wrapped in the same way we're gonna find out now for a seven millimeter diameter if it's going to slip before it breaks seven millimeter [Music] pressing seven auto block with seven millimeter cord wrapped in extra fourth time oh my gosh that's annoying climb heist seven millimeters [Music] whoa wow [Music] neato that is so cool [Music] okay so this broke this was all happening around seven or eight kilonewtons by the way the peak force we got was 11.62 seven millimeter prusik [Music] two three five oh slipping even though the accessory cord gets stronger the thicker it gets the closer the diameter is to the rope you're wrapping around it doesn't grab as good so now i'm curious what happens if we put a 10.5 millimeter rope on a 10.5 millimeter row i'm going to cut the end off of this green rope and use it to make uh the three friction hitches and see what happens okay we have our prusik and i am just so strong that i can make it slip even if i pull one side i can't get this thing to grab this is not working there we go nope nope dang it okay for the climb heist that is three wraps very difficult to work with yeah forget it it doesn't work just like everyone says so ideally you want it three millimeters smaller than the diameter you're wrapping it around and i believe so far we found that five millimeter on this 10.5 is a nice balance between strength of the accessory cord and it's slipping so now let's test the hollow block this is ten millimeters wide by five millimeters thick looks like little tiny slack line and it is sewn which you still want to avoid putting the carabiner directly on that part and we're going to put this on because this i believe has more friction and uh it's designed for this three wraps with our hollow block doing an autoblock and it slips [Music] the peak force of 0.42 four wraps [Music] and it starts slipping at 1.38 which an auto block isn't meant to hold technically it's meant to add friction we have a prusik with our hollow block [Music] oh that is fuzzy and this broke well this is welded and it broke at 5.84 so there's a lot of data here so i don't want it to get lost on anybody this mbs is 3100 pounds and this is an older piece of material and so naturally it's going to be weaker and when you test old soft goods the variables are just so this is entertainment more than it is true science but it is interesting to see how things react with other things our five millimeter in a prusik was about the same force as this depends what you have depends if you just want a finished product and you don't have a bunch by millimeter accessory code lying around you could buy yourself a hollow block this is also used for many different friction hitches honestly i really don't see the value of these please put in the comments below if you think they're valuable i definitely don't think you should ever use one of these as life supporting but it is nice to know that if it's connected to my harness while i'm repelling that if i'm using a five or even a seven millimeter accessory cord then i'm going to probably not break it on a repel you can also use these as lightweight ascenders you can also use these as uh hauling or backing up hauling systems put in the comments below where you use friction hitches but if you learn to stay past the jingle we might do one more neato thing if you want to get some merch slackline.com shop slackline.com boltingbible but you can't guess what's there and if you made it all the way to the end of this video you win yourself a free subscription push that red button to redeem your prize thanks for watching cheers [Music] this next knot is for our friend greg german who we think is pretty cool he spends a ton of his time and um intellect putting together how to's on how to remove bolts and he also designs many of the tools that we use for removing bolts so he calls this knot and rbs which i'm not sure what that stands for and we did some tests a couple months ago for him that we really messed up on so today hopefully we get it right greg he uses this little setup as an emergency ascender and he's wondering if it's stronger than a regular prusik in the same diameter cord so let's see all right just broke the rbs knot and we got 3.58 kilonewtons which is pretty similar to uh all the other things we tested in the four millimeter parachute cord [Music] god [Music] god [Music]

Channel: HowNOTtoHIGHLINE

Views: 24,345

Rating: 4.9762802 out of 5

Keywords: Highline, highlining, highlines, slackline, slacklining, slacklines, ryan jenks, how not to highline, hownottohighline, highliner, slackliner, tutorial, how to, rope, webbing, weblocks, rigging, rig, balance community, extreme, SlackSnap, Dynamometer, slow motion, break test, bolt buster, boltbuster, break tests, stunts, world record, slo mo, Slacktivity, climbing, science, mythbusters, carabiner, daredevil, rope swing, rope jump, jackass, alex honnold, big wall, gear, climb, rappel, spacenet, cams, anchors

Id: 0fdOn2futNc

Length: 15min 2sec (902 seconds)

Published: Wed Jun 16 2021