Lead falls in climbing gyms - how much forces does it generate? Climbing Science!

do you want to see some climbing science check out us whipping with some dinos on this episode of how not to climb [Music] hi i'm ryan jinx and we are going to do some climbing science here at pipeworks climbing gym in sacramento we have three dynamometers that we are going to put on the climber the belayer and the bolt that we whip on so i've asked numerous people how much force is created on at any point during a whipper a climbing whipper so we've done science here on how not to highline before about high lines and the forces that are on them and we have learned if you have followed along at all and if you haven't make sure you hit that subscribe button that high lines are about two to six kilonewtons when we whip big high lines start at a high kilonewtons four or five kilonewtons would barely go up when we whip small high lines barely start at anything but spike because there's not as much webbing to absorb it so we're going to take some about 20 foot whippers here at pipeworks and we are going to record everything with different weights different people switching the blair in the climber so let's get started hello i'm ryan kowalski and i weigh 160 pounds what's it read tj is it backwards it's taking some time hi i'm tj gillick and i weigh 167 pounds i'm mike melner and i weigh 175 pounds hi i'm mike milner 2.0 and i weigh 191 pounds with your weight belt we needed heavier guy and mel lost weight so thanks thanks mal [Laughter] i want to make a special thank you to pipeworks climbing gym for allowing us to come in here after hours if you're in the sacramento area be sure to hit them up there's a lot of awesome people here i met tj mel and ryan all here at fireworks what's the plan mel okay so the plan is i'm going to take this dynamometer all the way up to the fourth quick draw i'm gonna clip it in clip the rope in go to the top touch the top and then fall awesome how are you gonna stay safe well we've got a couple different things going on here so we've got a figure eight tied to our other dynamometer which is attached to my harness and then i've took that tail and we tied directly in so yeah we do human testing but we do it as safe as we can this you guys is a line scale two it's uh new it's awesome i think it's uh four or five hundred bucks it goes up to 30 kilonewtons compared to the rock exotica um rocket rock exotica enforcer this is only i mean this is great because it has swivels but only goes up to 20 kilonewtons which for me when i'm doing tests um is not high enough but i like this one a lot because it's got big eyes for when we use it for high lines and stuff and it can feel pretty secure soft shackles are really bomber and this is double wrapped way stronger than the harness but we still back it up go to linegrip.com in order to pick up one of these all right so what are you going to do ryan so i'll be doing a leap belay i have my atc with my carabiner right into the top of the thermometer which then goes into uh the soft shackle which is then backed up by the sling in case anything were to happen awesome you look like you've done this before ryan no it's the first time [Laughter] sick do you have bad eyesight that you need those special glasses oh they zoom in for me and they do all the bullying too do they hold the rope [Laughter] [Music] sick just really try not to kick you in the face hey mel what'd you get 1.78 1.78 all right go uh go up there and read uh read that dino for us 0.99 oh you got less than he did yeah sick what's it say mel 3.54 kilonewtons 3.54 wow all right so mel's gonna do a short fall that doesn't lift ryan up nearly as much yeah that was smaller for sure what's your uh dino say mel 1.26 1.26 okay so what's uh what's the dyno read 72.72 point seven two two point eight eight kilograms two point eight eight on the smaller fall cool all right guys you ready ready how much do you weigh again tj 167 and 160. all right so pretty even let's find out uh let's find out how much this generates tj while you rest there how much does the dyno read my dyno is reading .84 and the quick draw quick drawing 1.28 1.28 which is a combination of both of your guys's weight yeah roughly 300 pounds of horse nice okay so we'll find out what it is when uh when you fall now for science all right what's it read 2.14 2.14 awesome 3.72 wow now what's it read 1.73 on my harness what'd you get 0.77 0.77 on the shortfall 3.46 on the anchor 3.46 all right ryan what are we doing now we're doing a static fall where the diameter is located directly into the ground anchored into the ground cool so you're not going to fly up i'm not going to be moving which is simulates when you're at a hanging belay outside [Music] what's your rate 2.65 2.65 4.52 1.15 1.15 sick middle 2.0 uh how much weight are you now 191 pounds awesome um you look like you're ready for battle right go go go for it buddy it's not harder to climb oh my god that's a good point damn dude are you kidding me what's it say 4.06 nice it's not that much more yeah 4.06 the static anchor was way more intense yeah yeah statics well yeah ryan got just sucked up yeah hi i'm ryan and i'm 158 pounds so got the dyno on me but as you can see right here we z dragged it and so we're gonna have a lot of friction when i fall so in theory this will feel more like a static catch to me and more like a like nothing to ryan for science 2.43 yeah yeah that was scary it's way easier what did you get ryan point three six point three six four point seven eight yep wow 4.78 yeah that's static as i didn't feel anything he didn't kill anything now we're gonna go for the big gusto and drop as far as we can and so i'm gonna belay ryan this time and we'll see how it goes and now i'm gonna get the climb that puts me in 1.87 on the bigger fall i got 0.84 also 2.60 2.60 wow wow that was a lot of numbers but uh basically we got some good data as a good starting point for some climbing experiments you can check out the chart right here and tell me why you think the climber plus the belayer never really added up to the bolt leave in the comments below why you think that is notice that we did not get five kilonewtons on the bolt at any time regardless of what kind of experiment we were doing big falls or even static it was interesting to see how little force was on the blair and especially when we did the the z drag test also leave in the comments below what kind of climbing experiments you want to see we plan on doing some human testing in the climbing world and kind of get a feel for what kind of forces things see because like our carabiners are rated for 24 kilonewtons our ropes are rated for falls even though you'd be shocked how little dynamic ropes break i prefer to try to stay away from that consumer attitude where it's like someone just hands you something and you take it for granted that it works and you go use it it's nice when you understand what each thing breaks at why and so you can make decisions out in the field uh you know because it's your life

Channel: HowNOT2

Views: 211,383

Keywords: Highline, highlining, highlines, slackline, slacklining, slacklines, ryan jenks, hnth, how not to highline, hownottohighline, highliner, slackliner, expert, tutorial, how to, rope, webbing, weblocks, rigging, rig, main line, backup line, loose, tension, slacklifebc, balance community, extreme, SlackSnap, Dynamometer, slow motion, break test, bolt buster, boltbuster, break tests, stunts, world record, tight rope, slo mo, slacktivity, Aki slacklines, inov split

Id: m8z6adEqaOs

Length: 10min 28sec (628 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 19 2020