- Welcome back, Freedom Protectors to the ring gun building channel. Today we are talking
about my favorite topic, which is none other than pins, the thing you hear me talk
about in every single video, but there's also kind of a sentimental piece of this video today because the very first
video that I ever uploaded to YouTube was the Perfect Pins video. It's what launched this channel, and I remember going back
to that time thinking, gee, I wonder if I'm gonna get
100 views in the first week or, I wonder if I can reach
200 views in the first month, and I remember releasing that video and just watching it, 100
views, 200 views, 300 views, 1000, 2000 views, 5000 views, and it was just like you
guys took a hold of it and just pushed it out
onto the build community. And the truth of the matter is that MGB would not be sitting here
in front of you today doing this mastering pins video had you not taken that original
video and just ran with it. So I thank you very much for all of the support
you've shown me since then. And, I mean, I can't even believe how much and how big this channel has grown and how fast its ground to where it is. So thank you very much, but today we're gonna go pro and we're gonna be Jedi Pin Masters. Let's go, baby. (upbeat music) All right, Pin (mumbles)
ones, let's become Pin Jedi. We have a Polymer 80
brand-new in the box here. This is a 940C model, so
that's the G19, G23 or the G32. It comes in the jig, and as you can see this jig
is not tight and together, so we're gonna have to deal with that. It has a real rail system
and a front locking block. It comes with a mill bit
and then two drill bits, a three millimeter bit
and a four millimeter bit, so let's put this aside for a second. All right, so to understand
or to become a master, we have to really look at, well, what are the root causes
putting us in a situation where we have users at a wide spectrum making mistakes and mis-drilling holes or having holes not line up correctly. Now I've spent months studying video, observing builders
firsthand at build parties, talking with people trying
to understand the root causes that is allowing these things to happen and plaguing our community. So nothing has been more helpful for me than to watch people
firsthand screw it up, right. So I'm gonna go over some
of the inherent things that are leading it in as far
as the system is concerned, and then what some of the user issues are that attribute to also
having mis-drilled holes. So the first is, is that we
have a three millimeter hole going through the grip
into our trigger housing. We have a three millimeter hole that is going in for
our locking block pin, and we have a four millimeter hole for our trigger pin, okay. And so, what I'm gonna do
is we're gonna open this up and we're gonna take these bits out. So the bit that Polymer 80
gives you first and foremost are not quality bit, all right. And so, I'd highly suggest
that you use quality bits, and I'm gonna go over some
with you in a second here. They switched them awhile back, the older bits were a
little bit better than this, but you know the reality is, is that they're not in drill bit business, so having a high speed drill bits is not something that
they're going to offer to us. Here we have three millimeter bit from Polymer 80, all
right, we have the jig. Now you can see here that it
has a little raised portion in the jig for your bit
to go into, all right, but look, see how much room I have here. This is not enough of a raised post to actually align the user
and keep the user stable. I have way too much room here
because it's not deep enough. We can't rely on that
to keep our bit steady, that's not gonna happen, all right. The second thing here is
when we look at the data, this is what we know that
80% of the issues that occur when drilling holes happen
on a 940C in the grip area, and it's really high for
the locking block pin, okay, enormously high statistically. I'm gonna show you why in a second, but for the rear here, let's open this up. When we're going through
our trigger housing pin in the back, this is the rear one, you're not going on a flat surface. In other words, it's not coming here, it's back here and it's
on an angled surface, all right, so that's one issue. When it comes to the locking block pin, it is a little bit different on a 940C because you have these raised posts. Let me take this out. You have raised posts that the
bit is coming through here, coming through, coming through, and then bang, it's hitting
the post on an angle. And what happens is that we have a rounded edge to our drill bits, it's only clipping half of that post, it's not going through the hole post, it's only clipping half of it. And as it's spinning, it's
going on an angle like this. Okay, that's exactly what's occurring. Now when I can compound that issue for those folks that are using a drill, and I've talked about this before, but a drill is a right-angle
tool, okay, and I'm holding it, well, my wrist is gonna flex. So as I'm pushing down and the bit just through
physics meets the resistance of clipping that post and I
take into account my wrist, it's pushing it off. And so that's exactly why we
see the holes on an angle. And typically we see it
on an angle on one side, which happens to be
whatever hand they are, so if they are right-handed, it's flipping in this way on one side, and on the other side they're straight because they have that
wrist power counteracting, hitting the post, all right. Let me show you what I mean over here. So on this frame what I did was, I did the holes and they look
beautiful on the outside, but I left the inside open, so we could see it a little bit better. And here you can see how rough it is and see how it only clips
half of the post, right. It's only clipping half of that post. So, again, this bit is coming through, and if it's rounded at the edge, it doesn't have the ability as say something like a Brad point does where it has a point and
it starts to cut into that before the flute goes through, okay. You have a rounded bit going in hitting and then turning on
an angle, just like that. All right. So we need to compensate for that, we need to make sure that our own body mechanics
don't come into play, and that the bit stays
straight all the way down, even though it's gonna hit
a new piece of resistance as it's going through this
thick portion of the frame. Makes sense? All right, put that aside for a second. So we have the grip, which
again we're drilling in, the drill bit is straight,
but the material is angled. Okay, and then we have
our locking block pin. All right, now with the jig, I can actually keep this out for a second. With the jig, this is a 940C jig, and while we do have a little
bit of that raised portion, which helps a tiny, tiny bit. Some of the jigs don't even have that. So let me grab a, what is this one? This is a 45 jig. So we can see on this 45 jig, we have no raised portions whatsoever for our locking block
pin and our trigger pin. Okay, so you just need to be, then you have nothing
stabilizing the bit at all. And that is also true for the CL and I have a CL right here. So same thing with the CL, okay. For our trigger pin and
our locking block pin, no raised portion whatsoever, all right. So put that aside. So these are the things
we're keeping in mind as we're getting ready to drill. Well, so the first piece is gonna be, what should I do in
order to keep it straight all the way down and not
depending on the jig to help me? And the answer to that question
is to use a Dremel press. Now we have a lot of
questions out there about, well, should i use a drill press
or can I use a drill press? And Polymer 80 specifically
in their instructions in big, bold letters and in red say, do not use a drill press. Now the reason why they're telling you not to use a drill press is
because the data is clear and it's overwhelming that folks that use a drill press crack frames, right. Something I talked about in the pin video, the original pin video
is the torque, right. We're using a drill, a
drill is about torque, grinding down, grinding in, and this is just a piece of polymer, okay. And it's too much pressure going down, we add in the torque of a drill press and that's why the
frames crack, all right. So they highly advise you not to do it. Now do people use a drill press, and are they able to do it successfully? Of course, okay, but overwhelming
amount of data has shown that it cracks the frame. And then the frame cracks and then they want a warrantee frame. Well, they're telling you that upfront, so that they're not gonna
warrantee that frame if you use a drill press, okay, but a Dremel workstation, a Dremel, as again, we talk
about in that original pin video is about speed, the Dremel
work is just gonna come in and punch, punch right through. And when we use that in conjunction with a Dremel workstation, it's going to act and keep
it as steady as possible going straight down for that plunge. In other words, I don't
have any of my mechanics of my hand in the way
that could screw it up. I eliminate all the user error because I'm allowing the machine to just plunge in straight and down. A Dremel workstation is by far
the best tool for this job. It just really is, and
sometimes folks like, well, I don't wanna, Marine Gun Builder, I don't
wanna buy a Dremel workstation, they're 60, 65 bucks, and I don't wanna spend
the money on the tool, I wanna be able to do
it as cheap as possible. Listen, I'm telling you from
just years here, my friend, years and years of people saying that, and then they ruin the frame and have to go spend 120,
$130 on a new frame, right. So cost is relative to what you're doing. If you screw up, it gets expensive because these frames cost money, and Polymer 80 doesn't
always warranty them if it's a user error, okay. So Dremel workstation is what
we're gonna use for that. All right, so now let's
take a look at this jig. So here we have the jig
and it's got an opening, we can't have that. We need this tight and closed and this seam closed all the
way around the entire jig. We don't want it opening up at all. So here you can zip tie this shut, you can use tape, you can use
screws into the posts here and try to come through the
other side and wing nut it. I mean, the options are endless. The point is no matter what you do, you want to make sure that there are no gaps anywhere
in this jig whatsoever. I use black electrical tape, I find it's easy because
it stretches around all of these unicores and stuff, but you can use blue tape, masking tape, duct tape, whatever you want. So here is an example I have one because guess what we're doing, Pin Jedi, we're not gonna do just this frame, I have several others
that I need to do today. So we're gonna do them all one-shot, but I use the black
tape all the way around to make sure that all my seams are shut and tape tight, okay. So that's the most important piece. So from here what we have to do now is setup the Dremel workstation, put our bits in and we'll be ready to go. And before I continue,
let's talk about the bit. So Brad point bit, this
is a Dremel specialty kit, this is the Dremel 631, it's in the shop. It's specifically made for the Dremel with the Brad point bit. Now this is a four millimeter
for our trigger pin. They don't make in Dremel US, they don't, they only make standard kit, they don't make a metric kit in Dremel US, they do in Dremel UK. And you will see in a shop that I have the exact same kit, but it's in millimeters,
right, which is perfect, two millimeter, three
millimeter, four millimeter, just what we need. However, it takes months
for them to ship it to you from the Amazon UK into the United States, so think about that accordingly. And if you're in a rush, you don't have time to wait, and let's face it, so you
get the frame we wanna build, you can use a Dremel Precision kit and specifically here I use a 7/64 bit, which comes out to 2.74
millimeter, so it's a little shy and a little smaller
than three millimeters, which I'm gonna show you in a little bit why that's important, but you can use a Dremel Precision kit in conjunction with the
Dremel Brad point kit. Now if you're able to find
a 7/64 Brad point bit, you can use that as
well, Freedom Protector, that's good to go. They're just really, really
difficult to find a 7/64 and a Brad point. They normally and a lot of
the kits that are out there, the Brad points don't, they
stop at one-eighth, okay, which is too big, you can't use that. And unfortunately for me in
years of going to build parties and things like that, a
few that I have come across that I've had have walked away. There are some Freedom Builders out there that owe me one, okay, (laughs) but if you can find a 7/64 Brad point bit, that's good too, but this
precision bit kit is perfect. It's got a really nice pointed head to it, it's got a wonderful flute
that comes all the way down that really gets rid of that material and doesn't cake up on us at all. So these are the two bits that we're gonna use in
our Dremel workstation, and we're gonna set that up now. All right, we're ready to go, I have the jig taped up, everything is nice and tight, all the seams are locked in, we have the Dremel workstation setup, I have the 7/64 Dremel Precision bit in. Again, 2.74 millimeters is
what that's gonna come in at, but I did talk about going
through the locking block pin and hitting the posts, and I
want you to understand that, that's with the 940, the G19. If you look at, let's take some over here. If you look at a G17, you don't actually clip the post. See how it clears it, right, we don't have to worry about
that on our larger frame and on the smaller frame here, same thing. We're not gonna go through anything because there is no locking block pin, it's just using the trigger pin and there's no raised posts
for us to go through, okay. So that specifically is why we have so many issues
on the compact frames is because it's gonna hit that post on the locking block pin. All right, so we're gonna do
our three millimeters first. I have a whole bunch of
other frames as well, as I said before that I have to do, and so we're gonna get going. What I'm gonna do is take the jig, put it on, and I usually rest
it up against the back side to give me some stability. I want as much coverage of the jig on the base plate as possible. And actually while I'm saying that, one of the other things
that you can do too is, you can put magnets inside, okay, just now where you're gonna
drill, but that will lock it, lock it down to the plate. So some people like to do that. I am fine with keeping it up and in and up against that
front flat on the press, and then I line it up, like
so to where I'm dead center on the hole, just like that, okay. I always use mineral oil because what we used to
do is we used to drill and then we'd have to go in because it would be all burred up inside and we'd use a deburring tool, remember that from the
original pins video. Let me grab one here. We used to use a deburring
tool to go in there and clean up the burrs that
were left over from the bits. Well, we don't have to do that anymore. All we have to do is put a
little bit of mineral oil into the hole and as the bit
goes in, the inside is good. So I have this, a little bit
of mineral oil in my plunger, we just put it right
into the hole like so, and we line up our Dremel bit here. Boom. Boom. I'm dead center, I'm
right where I wanna be, mineral oil in, I'm good. All right, I have the
Dremel all the way up to 30, and it's just gonna be
a quick plunge, bang, just like that, no grinding,
no torque, none of that stuff that we'd have to deal
with with a drill, okay. So turn it on. You see? Bang. Done. That's it. I'm just gonna reline up this hole here. So easy with the Dremel press, and it's seconds to finish
the entire jig, right. The time here is just lining up the hole, so we're good to go, turn it on. Done. I mean, and I said this in
the PF9SS (laughs) video, why people wanna argue with us about using a Dremel press is beyond me because it is so easy
to go this route, okay. All right, so here we
gotta do the M3 up top. Now remember this is
where our post is, right. I wanna try to get as much tension on that back frame as I can. You wanna make sure
when you're doing this, you do not hit any piece of the inside of the post and the guide, okay. You wanna be dead center on that hole, and I'm right there. So mineral oil on, boom, Dremel on, plunge. That's it. All right, I'm gonna do this side now. Again, making sure that we're
dead center in that hole, we're not hitting any portion of the jig in the guide of that jig hole. I don't wanna hit any of it, and it's really good because it tells you, you have so much control here
with the Dremel workstation that you feel any piece of that that you might be touching with the bit. And so this is just
another reason why I love this Dremel workstation for this project because it just guides us
perfectly to where we need to be. Right there, so lined in. You'll remember, if you've ever done
this before with a drill and I talk about a little bit
in the original pins video, but with the drill you
end up taking out so much red material because you're
actually clipping the sides of the hole with a drill. That's a big indication that
you just screwed up your holes, my friend, all right. With the Dremel press, we
don't have that problem because we're not hitting
the sidewalls of the guide or the jig where it's
just hitting the frame, which is exactly what we want, all right. So a little bit of mineral oil, Dremel on, done. And notice this bit, do
you see anything, no red, right, that's exactly
what we're talking about. And if you do this with a
drill bit, you have red, that is a big indication that you're gonna have
misaligned holes, okay. So you wanna make sure that you have your Dremel press for this job because it keeps it dead accurate and the jig is still in perfect shape. I didn't take out any
material from the jig, okay. All right, so I've got some more to do. So those were the three millimeters on the one that we're doing. I'm just gonna finish up, I have three other projects
that I'm working on, so I'm gonna finish these up right now. Mineral oil in, Dremel on, done. Beautiful, right, beautiful, and no jig, only seeing black polymer, right. I did not clip the jig at all. It's exactly what you're looking for here. Start again all that. Red jig, you know you're in trouble. All right, put this in, Dremel on, done. Doom-doom-do. Dremel workstation to me, my friends, is not even a discussion. All right. Not even a discussion here. Done. It's so fast. All right, so those are
our three millimeters, now I'm just gonna change
this to a four millimeter bit, and we're gonna do our trigger pins. All right, ready for our
four millimeter bit now. And so, again, this is the 631
Brad point bit from Dremel, it's a specialty, okay, because a four millimeter bit
will not fit into a Dremel, this is why we use the
Dremel specialty kit because the shank will fit into
your collet of your Dremel, and then we can use this beautiful bit. All right, in, on, plunge, just like that. That easy, okay, and again,
no red anywhere, right, we're not hitting the jig. Nice and perfect. And I have yet to see somebody use a drill and not take a whole bunch of red jig out. I have yet to see that. All right, bang, there we go. Mineral oil, on, plunge, and done, right. So this is exactly how we're
gonna do our four millimeters. Look at how nice that strand is. This is beautiful flute of this bit, just does it perfect in
one-shot, takes it all out. And this is exactly why
mixed with the mineral oil, we don't have to deburr the hole, it came out perfectly in one strand, okay. That was done, I'm just gonna do the rest. Perfect again, I mean,
just look at, right. I mean, this does it so perfect. I mean, these are just
perfect strands coming out. It doesn't matter if
it's a three millimeter or a four millimeter, it's
just absolutely wonderful. Okay, so that's it,
last one, last trigger. Yeah. Last one, last one. That's it, we're done, right. And again, one strand, beautiful. We don't have it caked up, I mean, this is exactly
why we use the right bits with the Dremel workstation, right. Nothing, and again, you use a drill, all this is caked up, and as you do the different ones, it's sticking all those burrs in there. I mean, it's just a nightmare. So I'm gonna clean this up, and then we're gonna get ready to start putting our pins in place and test fitting and moving rails around to adjust, okay. All right, Freedom Protectors, so we're all done, we're
back, I take it out of the jig and I give it a quick rinse just to wash any of the mineral oil off or
any of the leftover burring. The burring is not
attached inside anymore. Now if you recall back to
the first perfect pins video, we spent a lot of the time in that video, first quality inside getting
rid of all of the burring. And as you can see, using the mineral oil with the Dremel workstation
as well as the correct bit, you come out mint right out of the gate. Right, you save yourself so much time and it's absolutely perfect. That is true here for a frame like this, which was stippled, and then we just used the
workstation with the right bits, and you can see it looks like it was actually stippled around the hole. You can't even tell that
we drilled that hole into an already stippled frame. And, look, I mean, the
fact of the matter is, I can't tell you how many
times I've seen people stipple upfront and then go to do a build and (laughs) the holes
around their stipple job look like garbage, okay. So this is another reason
why I use that procedure. Here we have a mixture of a
Cerakote and a stipple, right. So this was a cobalt frame Cerakoted black and then stippled to have
the gray, the cobalt pop out. And you can see absolutely
perfect there, right. It looks like it was like
that from the factory. And it's so good with this method that even on the inside where we drilled, you don't see any gray
of that original frame. It doesn't even touch the
Cerakote, it doesn't even mar it. Same is true here. We have, this was a black
frame Cerakoted OD green and then stippled, okay. And again, they look perfect
on the stippling, right. Can't even tell that we drilled through the stippling of the frame. And again, on the inside, complete coverage of the OD green don't even see any of the black polymer from the original frame color. So it's really the way to
go, Dremel workstation, those right bits and some mineral oil, and I mean you're 100%, but what we gotta do now is
we got to start to test fit some of our pins because we use
a 5/32 Dremel Brad point bit for our trigger pin and we
used the Dremel Precision bit for our three millimeter pins. And so those bits are
a little bit smaller, and we did that purposefully because we want a nice
tight fit into our frame. So with our pins, we have
our trigger pin here, okay, we have our locking block pin, which is gonna up here, we have the pin that Polymer 80 gives us that is predrilled for the
front of their locking block, and we have our trigger housing pin. So from here what I do is
I start to fit these pins right to the frame
before I put any rails in or anything like that, I'm
starting to marry up these pins and getting a nice tight fit. So all I do is put it on my armor's block and I go around to each pin and I do the pin two times from each side. So each pin two times coming in this side all the way through
and then I flip it over and do the other side, same thing, okay. Just to make sure that we got
a good snug fit, all right. So after we do that,
we've tested all our pins, we're good to go, we can put that aside, everything fits nice and snug, it's already to the frame, and now we can start to talk about specifically that rear rail issue, okay, because I'm gonna show you right now how to solve that rear
rail issue permanently. Before I get into that, lemme cut off this rear
tab real quick off camera. All right, so I just quickly
cut off the rear tab, so that we can use our rear rail system and
start to check this out, okay. So with the rear rail system, you know I have a whole video on this and I encourage you to watch that video, but basically what happens is
the first thing you need to do is make sure your pinholes are correct. So we take our trigger
housing, we place it in, and it's got a little shelf right here, okay, see the little lip right here. We place it, so it sits down on the shelf. When it sits down on the shelf, you should be able to
see all the way through and you should be 100%, you shouldn't see any black, you should be able to go right through. That tells us that our holes are correct because that's where it's gonna sit. So as long as you are 100% here, you can see all the way through and you see no obstructions,
you are good to go. Those pins are 100% in the rear, but then we get into our
infamous rear rail problem where our holes where
it doesn't sit correctly and we start to see metal, okay. And this one is actually 100%, so we can't use that. All right, so I had to go
into my box of goodies here to find a rear rail that was (laughs) not lining up with our
perfect holes, okay. And so I got one that shows a little bit of metal on the bottom, which is what our common problem
is with these rails, okay. So we have some metals thicken
up down on the bottom there that would prevent the
pin from going through. And so, what we have done in the past is take in our Dremel
with the bit on the end and open up that hole just a little bit in order to allow the
pin to go through, right. So we would take the metal off the bottom, but the thing is that, look, the motto of the channel
is learn, innovate and share, and while we are always learning, we're always trying to innovate and that has bothered me from the day that we put that video out because I know that it was
treating a symptom, right. And so when you think about
our little fixes that we do, I'm always trying to find the root cause and solve the issue permanently. And when it comes to this rear rail system and we go ahead and open
up the bottom a little bit. Listen, it fixes, the weapon works fine for thousands and thousands
and thousands of rounds and you'll never know. The issue though is because
it's sitting there like that, and it's not sitting where
it's supposed to be sitting and we're taking material off of there, well, that also now
means that transfers up, that means that this rail
in the back is sitting high. And so, when every time that we have to take material off down
here to get a pin in, we're also having to stone
and sand the top, right, because it's not sitting lower. If it was sitting lower, we wouldn't have to level out that top. In other words, it
wouldn't be sitting proud and we wouldn't have to
stone it to level it off with our front locking block. So this symptom is closing other illnesses within our real rail. So what has always bothered me is, what was the root cause of it? And it wasn't until about, I don't know, about two months ago, I was
working on another project and I cut open a frame
along the seam, okay, cut it open and I was
working on something else, and then I looked down here in the channel and it kind of just dawned on me (laughs) we were taking the wrong approach to it. And so, if you look
down in the frame here, you can see there's a little
shelf that it sits on. Now I talk about that in the rail video because a lot of times we
can just fix our curve here and it sits on this shelf
right here on that curve. And if you look at the rear rail, it curves but then it comes straight down. And that's actually not
how it's molded inside, it does not do that. It's just one continuous
curve down in there and then onto the shelf, okay. And so a lot of times we can just make a nice little curvature
here, so it's not as straight, and then it sits perfectly. Sometimes we get away with that, but sometimes we don't, and that was the sometimes
that bothered me. So when I cut open the frame, I started to realize something and I had a whole bunch of rear rails and I started to test and play. And so here is the thing. That corner down there
where that shelf is, I don't know if you can see
it, but it's right here, a little shelf that this
bottom piece sits on. Now you can see that
this is rounded like this and it's also on an angle like that. And when it's sitting in the frame, what occurs is it hits that shelf too soon, right. And so it's keeping it up, it's gotta go down a little bit further. What all we need to do
there, Freedom Protector, so simple, so stupid, let me just get my little
sanding block here. So simple, so stupid sometimes. We just need to sand this down
a little bit, take it off, so that it can seat on
that shelf appropriately. Now here is what I know from testing this over and over and over again. A lot of times it's just
like 90 seconds, boom. Sometimes this curve here on either side, I've had to work with
a Dremel a little bit because it's not curved
like that in there, it's more of a square if
you can see down in there, it's just a square when
it gets down there. So this rounded edge is
not fitting in that square. So basically all you're
gonna do here is take this and rough it up, go back and forth, this is a little Zip Sander,
fantastic for this job. I like to hand-fit pieces. And if we remember Marine Gun Builders, rule of gunsmithing is
we never modify the gun, we modify the part to
go into the gun, right, we don't wanna modify the gun itself, we wanna modify the
part to go into the gun. So I just spent a few, like I said, like 90 seconds doing this back and forth, making this a little smaller. I like to keep that same angle, as you can see it's
starting to flake off now, and it's starting to look
a lot smoother, okay. You wanna work that edge too because remember it's square in there, it's not beveled around there, okay. So work in kind of on the side
a little bit coming in here and then across trying to
take out some of that corner. And like I said, in rare instances, I had to actually use the
Dremel to get it to sit, and I'll actually show you that. I won't go all the way that way, I can shove that, so let
me just check it real quick before we go any further. Put this in, take a look, I mean, already it looks
a 1000 times better, you can see a lot of light
through it right now, right. It is just a here more, and so again, I mean, that was less than a
minute of doing that, okay. And my rear rail is ready to go, but I'm just gonna show you that corner real quick with the Dremel, with our Dremel, this is
another specialty sanding bit that I keep in the shop, it's an extended length, allows me to come all
the way across it, okay. These, again, are not widely available, and so this is a 600 grit,
very, very fine sanding this. So I'm just gonna put the Dremel on 15 and I'm just gonna come
along the side here, I don't wanna flatten this,
you wanna keep that angle because that's where it
hits first, all right, but I wanna come around the sides here. I'm not really trying to square it off, I'm just trying to get it, so we can sit a little bit better, and it's so close right now, I mean, let's just take
a look at it again. It's so close right now, I mean, it's pretty much there. Let me put the white
behind it, so we can see. See, we're really, really close here. So I'm just gonna do that, but
like in just a few minutes, just to show you the
different angles of it. So once you have it, I'm just gonna come back
and forth here and around, just like that, all right. I'm making that corner,
so it's not so proud and it sits on that shelf
a little bit better. Do you see it sands right off? And I don't wanna go too much because the last thing I wanted to do is to sit down too far and
have the opposite (mumbles) So that's all I need to do. That's it, I don't need to go
anymore crazy than that there. I'll put that aside. All right, so let's put her in. Let's put the white behind again. Yep, a 100%, man. I mean, that is the secret, right. We've spent a lot of time
going in with those little bits when we don't really
need to anymore, okay. That's part of innovation, that's part of us not
ever accepting a quick fix or a Band-Aid, and
getting to the root cause. So that's the fix that
I recommend you go with because we're not opening
up the hole anymore, we're not compromising any
of this integrity at all, and it's sitting where
it's supposed to sit, simply by taking a couple
thousands of an inch off the bottom of that shelf and allowing it to sit nice and flush. We can see all the way
down that pinhole now we're a 100%, we are good to go, that pin is gonna drop
in there nice and perfect with first-time quality. All right, Pin (mumbles) ones, now we're ready to
become a pin Jedi Master, let's recap what's on the test. First and foremost, you
wanna make sure that that jig is tape shut nice and tight, checking that seam all the way around, making sure that there
are no gaps whatsoever. Then you're gonna take
a Dremel workstation in conjunction with some quality bit. Now over on the blog, I have a great resource for
you called the Drill Guide. This walks you through
all of the drill bits that I use when completing a Polymer 80. Today you saw me use a
Dremel Precision 7/64's bit to do our three millimeter holes and a Dremel 5/32 Brad point bit to do the four millimeter holes. Then we take a little
bit of that mineral oil and we dab it into that
hole before we drill. This is gonna leave the
inside nice and smooth with no burring and deliver
a first-time quality result. Now the only other thing I have for you is a little piece of advice, and that is to practice the technique with the Dremel workstation ahead of time. It's one sweeping motion
down and up, down and up. The last thing that you wanna
do is pull down and stop and leave that bit spinning, and you also wanna turn
the Dremel all the way up. From there my friends you have 100% holes, the only other issue you may run into is, if you happen to have an
on the spec real rail. In that case we're gonna
fix that arc first, we're gonna attack the
arc of the rear rail and make sure it's aligning to the arc inside the frame appropriately. Now I have an entire
video on rear rail fixes and I encourage you to watch
it if you run into that issue. From there if we do our arc
and we're still not lined up, then we go to the bottom, we take a little bit off the bottom, so it sits on that shelf. Now that's gonna fix almost
everybody's problems, and for the one-off case
where you need to go in and touch it up, you just
take a little diamond bit and you touch up that hole. All right, that's it for today, Pin Jedi, simplify, do or die. (upbeat music)
So I just spoke to a buddy who I managed to get into this hobby, and he asked me, “This is my first build, should I really get all these tools?”
It’s a tough question to answer for someone else, but I can list a million reasons why you should: dremel has a million purposes, etc. my suggestion for this was you want this firearm to function as intended every time YOU need it.
With his FTQ videos you get that result. Having followed MGB for over a year or more now, the fact that he’s evolving as we learn these weapons and new ways to build them as well as keeping his pride in check from some builders who think their outdated techniques are best, is awesome.
I strongly recommend if you’re in this boat to learn from him. Are the tools 100% needed to complete the build? Probably not needed to go bang. But like anything else you get what you put into it.