plastic corpsing

this is uh one more tutorial and this is on corpsing um hold on it is not latex and cotton or cheesecloth corpsing this is different I swear I am way too lazy for that so hang on uh don't turn off just cuz I said corpsing this is different I swear the patini Enterprise skeletons are are plastic and super light okay they don't weigh barely anything at all these guys are 30 bucks a piece um and they're way lighter all right the uh the bies are really heavy to hang if a Bucky fell from a decent height it could kill a person and I hate carrying them around because they're a pain in the butt but these are super light and the corpsing technique I'm going to do on them is also super light so it's not going to make them so heavy that they are useless or hard to move around CU I like to put them on walls and stuff but let me get on the corpsing technique I'm going to remove my turntable here which is great for sculpting not as good for corpsing the hardest part about corpsing is turning this from a skeleton into a corpse because of all this open cavity here um that's just a super pain and and to try and stretch something that's why people use cheesecloth and Spiller and whatever they can in order to make this cavity look less like a skeleton and more like a body well I'm going to achieve that step in minutes I love me some plastic because it's fast and you get results I am going to open up one of these and just cut maybe that's in half but who knows I just cut a big chunk off cuz I'm not a big measurer I'm not terribly precise and this is even pretty long so I'm going to cut this in half cuz I just need a good size chunk have the body have 7 mil plastic I'm going to wrap it around the body and I don't want it to stick to the spine okay I want it to go around the chest cavity and the pelvis and leave that area there kind of open and I'm not worried about it sticking really good all I really need to do is get a wrap again I checked it with my hand cuz I'm an idiot of course it's going to work it's a heat gun and I'm using the heat gun to shrink down onto these bones okay I'm doing it once kind of far away and then I'll do it again up close okay and I am filling in all of this area in one go with a nice nice thin sheet of plastic all right this is corpse like I had it's got a willowing effect in here where it's all withered in and you can kind of see a taper where there's a weight I'm just going to take my extra now I'm going to roll it over one more time and using my heat gun I'm going to marry these two together now I'm doing this on a plastic skeleton so I don't want to stay too long in one spot with a resin Skeleton on a Bucky you can take as long as you want cuz you're not going to melt it I I could melt it now I've got another layer but this layer is really baggy I have glued it down in the back I'm going to hit the front those textures are what I really want to pick up for my corpse so I want them wrinkled you know I may want to put a little bit of hole in it do another little hole right there there and that kind of melted it down onto the spine and that looks really cool the more wrinkled and the more plastic I put on the stronger it is and the more texture it gets okay and I want it to have strength and I want it to have texture right here and I'm going to do another one closer up I did that again with the heat gun in my hand but boom tightening heat tighten heat tighten and all skeletons kind of fall apart because of how they're put together and wired together um if you plastic wrap around the arm and around the leg and use this to get your shriveled skin effect which you would get normally with layers and layers of latex and cotton um well this is going to help hold it together cuz you're Saran wrapping the whole thing together and the more pieces you put on the more layers just the better and because it's dry cuz I don't have anything wet I can flip this over and do the back seconds after I do the front I don't have to wait in between layers like I do with cotton and latex and I don't have to wait for my latex to dry before I put on a stain or a sealer okay I have finished up that torso I use a gel stain um these happen to be mid uh Minwax doesn't matter this is a honey maple this is a hickory the darker so you guys can see that better this is the Hickory darker color I'm just going to use the same brush but this obviously is going to give you a little more Darkness to it uh I've eliminated one of the hard parts of corpsing by making by filling in all this so quick and so easy I don't have to worry about painting or trying to corpse up inside the rib cage that people can see and this guy if I did him all the way when I finish him out he's done he's a corpse he's not a skeleton you know often corpsing techniques leave you with pretty much a skeleton that has some stuff stuck to it and this is going to be a much more corpse look I put on the gel stain and I'm going to wipe it away all right and that's taking out a lot of the stuff from the high spots and leaving it a bit in the low areas you can see kind of my rib detail coming through there as I rub that off all right but I've got all this wrinkly texture in here that I get from the plastic if you wanted to when this dries you can then go and do whatever you want with latex and cotton even if you only use it to fill in this part this is a great technique and a great time saer all right so I'm going to set him aside there he is I mean and you can see him in all of his skinny skeletal corpse Glory well before I move him and set him aside I'm going to turn on my heat gun again real quick check it with my hand of course which you should never do and now that the stain is on there I'm hitting this again and the stain gives a level of protection but I can still poke some holes and I can get this great webbing effect takes a little while longer I'm drying the stain I'm getting a little more detail a better level of detail and I had a a big old blowout here I can just add more plastic right on if I want to or just hit that with paint and right now I'm blowing out in between a few of these ribs so I can see down into the chest basically I'm heating it up enough to make a bubble and then I'm just popping that bubble with heat all right I'm going to dry brush it really quick I'm using yellow um I'm not a genius yellow was close all right and I know yellow is going to show against this brown that's why I picked yellow not because I always corpse in yellow I'm not sure I've ever used this banana yellow on a corpse before but this is going to with when I dry brush it's going to pop details and show you all these fine wrinkles and creases and the bones coming through you can see all that little detail that the dry brush gave okay but that's a cavers chest that's really rotted out as opposed to just a skeleton cuz this is filled in there's flesh here you know there's flesh here in between up in this rib cage and I can do as many layers of this as I want I can do a super vibrant paint job and then put on clear plastic over it like the skin has gone translucent and then used a real mellow stain over top of that um I could do it pretty much all clear than do it in airbrush veins over top of this there's a heavy veining going on then do another clear layer over that play with it don't be afraid but this is and it was really fast okay these holes in here I can now shoot spray paint in or whatever if I want to but I don't have to corpse back in there cuz all this is corpsed out right up front back here doesn't matter okay um so that is that I will start with an arm here I need about an arms worth I'm going to cut off about this much to wrap the arm and that's a little more than an arm's worth in length I did the arm for the width and I'm going to set this aside that is what I'm going to wrap this arm with later but first I want this to look more like an arm all right so I'm going to line This bone up the way that it goes and I'm going to line the hand up the way that it goes and I'm going to take I don't know that much plastic I'm going to cut it okay I've got my plastic I'm G tie a knot in it okay tie another knot in it I'm going to make a string of knots out of this plastic okay I don't care if they double up on each other it doesn't matter to me I just want some knots in there because these knots are going to become a bicep biceps attach up here on the arm I'm using the heat gun to melt this plastic to the arm right there I'm going to do it again right now down here take a little bit get a piece off wrap this around and that gives me a bulge of a muscle where I want it now I'm just going to take my arm length I'm just going to wrap this up I'm not worried about being terribly tight it'll tighten where I want it to be thinner I'm giving it more heat where I want it to be thicker maybe not as much heat okay but I want to shape around this bicep since I took the trouble to put it in there but I really want I want those two bones to show okay I want the bones to be in the forearm so I'm just using my heat to shrink this down and shrink it down until I can see both of those those bones and I can cheat here's a cheat remember every now and then I want a hole well I can make a hole in it and because this is exposed plastic it's going to shrink around the edges of the [Music] hole now I got a great bit of withered flesh where I cut it and expose bone see those two pieces of plastic have just become one I am I'm going to cut off my excess plastic then I'm going to cut down in between each finger just to where the finger and the Hand separate a bit so I guess that one two third knuckle down and then I'm just going to heat up that plastic and it's going to shrink right to that bone gloves on I can grab this plastic which is hot but not super hot and just form fingertips with my hands and I'm going to just flip it over which and I'm antiquing here so I'm putting on a lot of liquid paint that goes down into details okay and then I'm going to wipe away that's antiquing dry brush is the opposite where you put on a very little bit of thicker paint and leave it on the high stuff I want to clean that bone really good so that bone shows up again as bone cuz that's cool straight plastic wrapped it around wiped it off okay scanning to give you guys a look at the details that can be achieved with this method this is 7 mil husky that means it's from Lowe's plastic drop cloth it's a six-pack I used almost one drop cloth to do this whole body so I can do six out of that six-pack okay the two eyes that are in here all right those two eyes those are deodorant balls that monster guts sells Four Eyes okay you can find them on their website I think they're like $4 a dozen they are ridiculously cheap so they're good and I glued them in with E6000 and I used Minwax gel stain and my trusty heat gun to uh get this guy looking the way he is there's a translucency to the skin okay there is there's translucency there's depth on his teeth and his mouth basically I just uh I put the stain on and I wiped it off that's what I did everywhere same thing um I did get too much stain on the eyes so I put a little bit of mineral spirits on a paintbrush and pulled them back you could paint in eyes you could do those cool paper print out irises okay you could do those and print out some irises and glue those on uh here is his back I didn't do much detail on the back cuz the back is really a means to an end um but this is that's a cool corpse okay um the skeleton was 30 bucks full corpse guys about an hour while shooting a video of it I might add and uh I bet I could probably do it in half an hour if I wasn't shooting a video at the same time it's dry it's ready to hang

Channel: StiltbeastStudios

Views: 257,596

Keywords: corpsing, halloween, skeleton, Allen Hopps, haunted house, props

Id: 69p2EyS-5qk

Length: 19min 50sec (1190 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 14 2011