Plastering A Brick Wall From Scratch | NO PLASTERBOARD...NO PROBLEM!!

[Music] right this is what we're dealing with it's the wonkiest wall i've ever seen we've got white paint we've got existing and if you just look down that you can see that it is absolutely plugged makes you wonder about it don't it it's not great so we've got a lot of work here and he wants it all done in solid so there's no plasterboard no board adhesive it's all going to be solid plastering so today's video i'm going to try and sort this out okay so today the product we'll be using is this british gypsum hard wall it's designed for floating brickwork and getting it's an undercoat plaster purely designed for brickwork but we've got a problem well this is painted it's got a seal on so what i've done is i've espired all the wall usually you just keep the brick as it is and just render directly onto it but because this needed sbi i've decided to do it all so that way the suction will stay the same what you don't want is one half the wall pulling in faster than the other so i've spidered the whole area i'm going to mix up a load of hard wall and what you do with hardware you have two coats you have one coat as a base coat which you spread throughout you let that pull up pull in sorry and then you put the top coat on but because this wall is so bad we're gonna have to have a big section just try and get the initials um area flat and then we're gonna have to go on top of it to try and get it plumb so it's gonna take a lot of work um but we can do it so i'm gonna get a big mix some i'm just getting through it [Music] okay so the first stage is just dubbing out the wall we've obviously got a lot of low spots a lot of high spots but the first stage you want to get initial coat flat so this is kind of one section where it's up to that's just one coat flatten it off so now i've got something to work with it's not perfect yet but it'll be good enough for the second coat so that's what we're aiming for here and then you've just kind of got to do it by eye i know there's a massive low spot there another spot here so this is hard wall like we said and it's mixed quite thick so we're just aiming to fill in them low spots it dries relatively fast so we're just going to work on the sections at the time now usually when we float in you work right to left but the light is better this way so i'm doing your way around so we're just building out the sections first don't be too fancy about it we're just chucking it on try and get it straight ish but what's up first already done the top section i'm kind of just by eye for now gauging where the spots are and the reason you use hard wall is it's designed for floating walls ideally we would have had the brick we would have just salt it in and uh it worked directly on that with a bit of water but the good thing about hardware it lasts longer in the mix it's not like bonding it doesn't dry out very fast you can build it out quite fit it's a very lightweight product and in my opinion it's a lot nicer to use in bonding okay so we've got a section on i've applied the plaster generally got it flat but now it's to rule it so looking for any high spots to go off just take away the high spots first back in the bucket and then again from the middle to the bottom reaching out for the pipes now the aim of this is to get it generally quite flat we don't need it to be perfectly flat because we are going to put another coat on but the flatter we get it now the easier the second coat is going to be it's got a nice face to work on so now we've reeled it off let's have a little look it's flat ish we've got a good base to work off so now we've got to really just leave it because some areas are really thick due to the bellies and the undulation so continue putting that first coat from the rest of this wall and then you come back on yourself but even this section at the beginning it's still quite wet so we've got to let that take up now because of the areas that are really really quite thick if you put more uh render plaster on top of it it's just gonna have too much weight and fall off the wall so you gotta take that up now so i'm gonna carry on all the way down the way we have been put that base coat on and then touch it again see how it's feeling if it's too wet might have to leave it again just because of the section with the thickness you don't want to be adding too much weight to it it'll just fall off so do that [Music] okay so we've got the length on that's all good again not perfect yet but it's a lot better base to work with than what we had before so now i'm gonna mix a new batch and this time we're gonna start getting flat and plum so i'm gonna have a quick look on the level now see how we're doing quickly gauge it but i'm gonna get a mix and we're gonna start getting it on straight away so this section now it's dried pretty nicely it's got a nice touch to it still a bit wet so we still don't we don't really have to worry about keying it up it's got wet it's got its rough patches but we can go straight on there now so it's picked up it's got its own weight and work straight on it i mean i'm debating i might just key it up anyway i might put a mechanical key in because it's quite a long length i don't want this to be too dry so when i apply my second coat it's not going to key it so actually thinking about it i'm going to give it a quick key with um with a scratcher and then yeah carry on from there so yeah i'm going to key it up let's do the right thing now this is just a scratcher you don't usually have to do this with hardware but i've just got a feeling where the first section is quite dry i just want to give it a bit of a scratch so just want to rip this all the way through and then we know the second coat has got somewhat to sit on because the second coat is still going to be quite thick to get over some of the lumps that are still showing so there's still some break at the top that's quite bulbous so we still need to put a bit of thickness on despite having some areas that are you know a good inch thick already so i'm just going to do it because of that because we still need thickness again hard wall overall thickness is usually about 12 mil roughly the same fitness as plasterboard because of the conditions of these walls and the state of them we've just needed to do a lot thicker and just treat it differently this has been a totally different job to what it would have been if it was just floating a standard wall so again i'm going to rule it because it's going to be another a fair bit of fitness i predict there's going to be another like eight mil probably 10 max on there so it's it's still quite a lot to hold so giving it a key will give that top coat some it's grip too but yeah like i said normal hard wall you put a thin coat first coat on and then come back to the beginning put a top coat on just to bring it to around 12 mil you don't need it this thick this is because i've just had too much to build out on so i'm getting this on get another mix on and we're going to show you how to get the next bit flat um let's have a little look i've got a level up against it there i don't know if you can see that but it is actually pretty good so in terms of level we've got a few dips in the middle but generally that is actually quite straight to now and it's saying it's level let's move up a little bit see where we are overall same it's very good actually so despite the wall being all over the place there is there was a base he worked off so i'm guessing the bricks despite being um you know all over the place there's a bit out there actually so i could probably pull the top in a little bit here so the bottom may be a bit more thickness but generally we're looking pretty good so we i actually need loads of thickness i'm going to pull it out maybe add another eight mil or something just bring out some of the dips but yeah we've got a pretty good base now despite having a bad start so let's get a second coat on start ruling it and start getting it plumb show you using this well so far it's already used seven bags of hard wall which is a lot really so that sandwich states float now there's another one and three quarter bag so this coat is going to be a lot thinner compared to what we've just done but still it's got it max it rounds up there's a lot of plaster used in a lot of water okay so in terms of the mix the mix is a bit thinner this time because we don't have as much thickness to build out so we don't need it that thick again i've already done the tops and now we're doing trying to get a flat base a flat layer of plaster and we want to keep it pretty close to where we already had it because we know this section of the wall is quite club so we're just adding an even application and you know it's so nice doing some proper plastering i'm going so many houses where it's all plasterboard and no one really does a solid base of plaster anymore so it's nice to do some old-school solid plastering because unfortunately no one really uses it anymore it's all just plasterboard because it's faster and you know i suppose it is cheaper using just plasterboard it's a more expensive option using hardware in the long run but it's such a better product so yeah the mix is sloppier slightly wetter sorry um we've got a nice space to work on and the first coat is still actually quite damp so this rent the hard wall is sticking nicely to itself again when you're doing any floating work or rendering you usually work right to left but the light's a lot better on this side so about to cheat it a little so so in this coat the plaster is going to go a lot further which is another reason why you want it a bit sloppier gives you a bit more working time and uh just a bit bit easier to use but as a product hardware is what you want to be using if you're doing any base work like this it's a lovely product to use if you've never used british chips in hardware it is beautiful it rules really well sticks is very sticky and it's very lightweight which means you can really build it out so i'm going to whack this section on i'm going to roll it off and get it nice and flat and plump so we've got the render on now i want to rule it this is a feather edge this is an aluminium fabric it's called fabric it's basically straight edge this is just the type of feather edge i'm using so do the first round come in again so you go one way get rid of the load i'm just scraping up the plaster from the straight edge here putting it back into the mix so we've got one way to do the bottom and then we want to come up so we're now going horizontally taking your time i can't go any higher than that so go first clear horizontally and then just do a little check under the buttons now it's a section i'm just going to give it a little look level i've got a bit of a dip here so i've got to fill it out flatten it again but gently it's okay so that section's flat check the rule a little bit of plastic again it's still very wet it's gonna be pretty gentle but we're pretty good so it's flat we've got the rule on and it's plumb so again we're just going to carry on through with that same motion now and just get the rest of it done the render does last a lot further in this it's less mixing you can get it done faster let's carry on [Music] okay so the wall's floated it's flat it's plumb but we've got one more thing to do we've got to apply a key so this is the devil's float it's basically a float with some screws or nails put into place whilst your end is still tacky you put the float flat flat to the wall and then do figure of eight motions now what we're doing we're basically floating the wall whilst applying a key so we're pulling off any high spots and we're filling in any low spots because the render is still a bit wet it's still playable so we're doing two things playing the key while it's getting the wall flat basically so you've got to be careful to not do it too late because the render will be too hard if you do it too early you'll just pull it off so a good rule of thumb is especially on the edges it's very important because this is an area that i guess can get missed out you want your external angles to be dead flat and then we just again we just work in the area and getting it all nice and flat again another reason to use hard wall it floats very well it's quite creamy it's a nice product to use a float on so yeah you do that throughout and go all the way through that means when it comes to plastering you've got a key to work to and it'll stick so that is devil's float it's another tip make sure you do it for hardware because you need a key to plaster them there you are right so it's dried up nicely now it's still damp but when you put your fingers in it's not leaving any indentations that's the best time to start skimming it what i did do is before you start take your trowel you just want to cut back any of the high spots i've already done it but you just go out the edge you trowel roll it up keeps the wall flat but it also cuts back any of the off cuts that were left when you scratched it up so that is the ideal time to start plastering it's ideal to do it on the same day and when you put your pressure on it doesn't leave in any indentation so i'm going to mix up the finished plaster we're going to apply it one note when you are plastering onto hard wall it sucks in a lot faster than if it was plasterboard so don't allow don't put too much area on when you plaster onto hard wall because it just takes it pulls in a lot faster it dries a lot faster so just bear that in mind i'm gonna have two separate mixes gonna get the first coat on mix another batch and get a second coat on there we go okay so now we're on the final part obviously we've done all the backing work and i've mixed up some multi-finished plaster this is the plaster you need to be using for hard wall you're going to be using board finish multi-finish is um the plastic to use on hard walls sand cement and also existing walls it's an all-around good plaster to use but what i will say is when you are applying a plaster make sure you're getting it quite flat from the early stages because the plaster does pull in a lot faster on hard wall it's a very absorbent material and it sets a lot faster than let's say if you would plastering on plasterboard so when you're applying your plaster try and get it as flat as possible and try and get it on pretty fast as well because it like i said it does set but saying that because of the key given in the plaster really grips to the hard wall and in my opinion the nicest finish i think you can get in plastering is plastering on either hard wall or sand cement you've just got to realize that you do smaller areas because it will pull in faster and a good trick is just when it's set if you want a bit more time you can spray a bit of hard wall on the water and this will give you a bit more time with a plaster and help you control the suction but generally two to three hours later the hardware is still a bit damp which gives you a bit of time and workability with a plaster so you're applying it as flat as possible i've gone all the way down the wall like this and then obviously what i like to do is give it a good flattened for a second coat my see my weapon of choice obviously the ox speed skin and it's just a great way to get rid of any ridges or any high spots that were there to begin with because like i said you want to be getting your layers flat with hard walls this isn't that forgiving um so even if it means spending a bit more time in the flattening process because it pulls in so fast and it's got such a good key that when you come to apply a second coat you need to make sure your first coat is nice and flat so um i've just ruled it horizontally and vertically as if we were ruling like i did in the other videos and then we have mixed a new batch of plaster it's always good practice actually to mix new batches plus the hard wall again you don't really want to be using the same mix you want it to be quite sloppy which gives you a bit more playing time and a bit more room to work with um so yeah mixed up a new batch and again applying it pretty fast onto your first coat you don't really want to be waiting around because that first coat can pull in quite fast with hard wall um you don't really want to be wasting time so jumps on it flattened it mix the new batch up immediately and then straight onto it again up getting it as flat as possible to begin with and it's just um just making sure that the plastic you're putting on the wall is you know it's flat i mean if you want a video on this i'll put a video up on this um just on the right hand side i did a tutorial on how to apply plaster so if you need help with that you can watch that video should just see it popping around here somewhere generally that is how you apply the plaster and then process afterwards is pretty simple and pretty easy okay so that's the plaster applied that's all of it on now what we're doing is flattening it i'm gonna get a speed skin back on it now one thing i will say about hardware except for it does pull in quite fast so make sure you get it flat and fast because you don't want it to turn all that light they will show through so flatten it fast but what will say it's lovely plastering onto it it just grips the plaster because of all that key the the mechanical key we made with the devil's coat it really grabs on to it now once you've got it flat it's a lot faster and you get a much nicer finish so i'm just going to quickly whiz through this we've done a lot of the work i'm sure you've watched my plastering videos before but i'm going to speed skim it and then we're gonna go over it travel it and then finish it so we just added a little bit of water with the buttons coming all the way up but it pulls in so nicely with hardware it just pulls it in and you know that the plaster's really stuck to that base coat there it's just adding a little bit of water a lot of pressure when you're um finishing on the hard wall need a lot of pressure because the plaster is constantly sucking the moisture out of it but once you get used to it it's a lovely product to work on and it gives you a lovely finish so working up but you can see the walls just getting flatter and flatter nice smooth finish [Music] [Applause] and then one great way to flatter walls is cross trailing this is a great time now to cross travel plaster we've done a few verticals come across and it really helps get the cluster extra flat so start at the end a lot of pressure pushing that trowel right in let me go all the way and come back [Applause] i'm just getting that wall flat on fly that's what it's all about [Applause] not far and then it'll be done it's another tip cross trailing vertical but then after this we're pretty much done with the plastering we're not quite there and finished yet but there's not many more strokes we can do we're nearly finished so maybe one wet trial one dry trowel and not be it finished so that is the best way to get your walls dead flat and plastering using no plasterboard no plasterboard adhesive just solid plaster if you like this video please hit the like button and please subscribe to our channel and if you want more advice on how to get the finish in plastering as in where we just do normal plastering on existing walls or plasterboard and feel free to sign up to our free welcome course we'll show you the seven step process to plaster in a wall show you how to mix the plaster exactly which tools you need and the best mix for success so if you want to see that video in more depth where we just focus on the finish inside hit the link below in the description should be something here but yeah thanks so much for watching displaying great password beginners please like please subscribe and we'll see you next one cheers [Music] you

Channel: Plastering For Beginners

Views: 148,133

Keywords: learn how to plaster, plastering for beginners, plastering a brick wall, brick wall plastering, plastering, plastering lessons, how to plaster

Id: b549Rb1gcPs

Length: 26min 5sec (1565 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 26 2022