welcome back to e39 source Ryan Schultz here and we are talking about part three of the e60 m5 manual conversion in part one we talked about parts required and gave a general overview of the job part number two we did most of the mechanical work and I showed you how all that went part number two by the end of part two we had the car done we were driving the car here in part three we're gonna focus on wiring coding and programming kind of the technical stuff behind the scenes that made all of this work you can do all of the mechanical work and I don't think the car would drive at all it thinks that it's looking for an SMG transmission that's not there it would just be a disaster so you do have to reflash the DME we have to make wiring changes at the DME at the casts at the LMA at the SCM there's a lot of different changes that we're gonna make so before we head inside and I do a screencast and show you two pieces of web software or two websites that you're going to have to be comfortable with and have to know how to use I'm gonna give you a general overview of where we're going to spend our time from a wiring standpoint we'll get to coding later in this video from a wiring standpoint we're gonna spend the majority of our time in the DME box the DME box is where all of the sensors on the transmission including but not limited to the RPM sensor the neutral sensor the gearbox temperature sensor and the reverse sensor all of those are gonna come up from the transmission harness through either the SMG harness or if you're lucky enough and found a manual transmission harness to the DME box I'm gonna use that it's gonna come up under the hood and terminate here in the DME box from there some of those wires will need to be fed into various DME connectors the DME is your ECU or engine computer of course some of them will need to make it into the cabin don't worry we don't have to run anything through the firewall some of them will need to make it inside and plug into the LM a light module or caste general module and then we'll be spending some time at the ABS module we'll be spending some time at the center console switch panel or SCM and then of course the clutch sensor and the reverse sensor as well so the common areas will be DME box kind of around the pedals and then in the center console with that I'm gonna screencast on the Mac we'll talk in my office okay the first website that you just have to be comfortable with using here and pretty proficient with using is real OEM com and I'll link all of this in the description below but real OEM comm is going to show you all of the parts the part numbers their applications what production dates they were used it's good for everything but pricing they're not a vendor they don't sell parts it is a place to go and look at pictographs and parts explosions the parts that maybe the parts that may have prices listed next to them those prices are far out-of-date and should not be used when when planning this job at all so we click click here to enter then you can either enter the last 7 of your VIN keeping in mind that that's going to show us mg parts so what I would recommend doing is just looking up a generic 5 series e 60 sedan scroll down to m5 select that USA and then pick a date if you have an early car like we did maybe select the earliest that a manual was available and here in the United States the only market that received the manual e60 m5 a manual was only available from the September of 2006 production and later for the 2007 model year so I just selected September of oh six for everything s 85 engine and then browse parts and here is where you can go in and look at everything now this video isn't about parts we talked about that in video number two I just want to make sure you know how to use this so for example we'll look at gear shift we will look at the manual gear shift explosion just by it all you're retrofitting a manual you're going to need all those parts so there's the part numbers it does accurately lists here the quantity all of these were in use from nine of 2006 September of oh six some of them have pictures you can click the camera to see a picture of the part which is very useful and again ignore those prices if those prices were ever accurate it could have been 10 15 years ago so that's the first one number two is new tests tango India Sierra and as you get to this website we can then click enter BMW technical information system so we'll select five series will select East 60 we'll select M five and now we can look at a couple different things now I've really only used two of these four categories number one you can use the resources here to look at the technical BMW job repair instructions and this is what I service vizor in a dealership would probably refer to when doing a job say replacing a clutch replacing brake pads it just lists the steps here that are required another very high level they're not going to tell you to take a t30 and remove these three screws keeping in mind that the right one is longer they're just going to say open the casing removing the screws and they also provide the torque specs that can be used for anything and everything installing cupholders bolting wheels back on connecting rod bearing caps all the torque specs are here and what we're looking for will be wiring diagrams so we click wiring diagrams then we have to decide well let's try to look up the wiring diagram for the transmission sensors so what is data part of that's part of the part of the powertrain so we go there and then we can look at look at that manual gearbox how simple it is that they tell us it's manual gearbox and not the SMG so we'll click on manual gearbox and then we have the wiring diagram for the sensor system which is this link here we'll click on that and get ready to look at this for a long time because you are gonna study this graph you are gonna know this graph inside and out you're gonna read it a million times and you're gonna question yourself 999 thousand times and eventually you'll get it right if you're like me it'll take two tries I made one error surprise they didn't make more I made one error in my first attempt and that was because I traced a wire and then wrapped it around another wire while I climb back down the ladder and then climbed up the ladder and picked the wrong wire because it had fallen off of the one that I wrapped it around it was a stupid mistake I needed to retrace the wire again with a continuity tester and I didn't and when we got the DME tune on the car it was not working the neutral sensor was not was not reading active because I had the wrong ground to it so once I fixed that it worked but looking at this diagram it's a little complicated you know the the solid line around an object means that you're seeing the entire component and I'm looking at the B 456 neutral sensor and that is the neutral sensor B 456 is what they're calling the neutral sensor so if we click on that now we have a couple other things we can look at the diagram that the note that's a neutral sensor is on and that's what we just looked at or we can look at the install location of the B 456 so let's click on that and here it shows us the B 456 which uses the X 4053 Connect is on the top side of the transmission so it's a nice way to see to help identify the components so we'll go back we can see the X 4053 connector has one two three pins I sure can't tell you what you underscore PKS means I just don't know it is a point five millimeters squared wire so that tells us our gauge RT / WS these colors are abbreviated in German I'll try to link something down below that translates like red and English red is German rot whereas white WS is white so that's a red white wire that goes from pin three to pin one on the X 66 81 and eventually ultimately makes its way down here to the a sixty thousand which is the DME control unit now notice it has a dashed black line around the entire thing this is indicating that it is not showing us the entire components there's more to the DME control unit then this shows us but this shows us everything we need for this application so we can see that all in all pin three on the neutral sensor needs to make its way down to pin 19 on the x 60002 connector on the a 60,000 so the X 60,000 to connector what is that let's click on that and we can look at the connector view and this will show us very handily how many pins does it have which block is it what does it look like how bigger the pins that's a nice visual overview and then we can click on install location and we can see that the X 60002 connector is the top right one when viewed in this orientation in the DME box on the X 60,000 around the a 60,000 DME so you're just gonna want to print this stuff out read it study it and take your time back to the main diagram we move on the Y 86 16 is the RPM sensor it's important to note that the transmission has to kind of RPM sensors honest the one closest to the edge of the bell housing where it meets the engine that plugs into the engine harness you don't have to modify any of that that is the crankshaft sensor there's a secondary transmission rpm sensor that sets further back from that and it's got three wires pin number three as we can see here comes down here into pin 22 on the X 60002 connector now if any of these pins are already populated let's say you want to go you want to do what I just said pin 3 on the RPM sensor straight down to pin 22 on the X 60002 so if if pin 22 is already populated and I don't recall if it was or wasn't if it's already populated splice it in that sounds like an appropriate solution believe it or not it's not you you want to find a clean way to do that that's all up to you I mean you could use wire nuts if you wanted to but we're inside a DME box I would definitely advise against that you should use some sort of a crimping connector that is watertight waterproof tug proof you just you you want this to be solid this cannot come apart down the road no so that's all going to be up to you the next sensor and the transmission is the gearbox temp sensor now we look at pin number one turns into pin number 10 the the X 60,000 681 harness I believe is the transmission wiring harness and it is so this is the harness that installed on the transmission that we're then plugging into either if you were able to find a manual transmission wiring harness you're very lucky otherwise we kind of just cannibalized the SMG harness and used components of that to make our own it worked for me I only had to move one pin I talked about that in the beginning of this video series in part 1 I think I move 10 to 4 on the SMG part of the harness that we used and I explained that that so if you need to go over you watch that please do back to the diagram we see that it comes down here and it terminates into the X 6459 well what is the X 6459 so we click that look at the install location and it is up here which is just a it's a grounding block really if they just put all the grounds together and then ground the whole thing as opposed to taking each individual ground for each sensor and taking it to the chassis taking it to the DME wherever it's being grounded now in this particular instance a ground is a ground they all need to be grounded and they need to be grounded well but it doesn't precisely matter from a functional standpoint if you ground it to the chassis or a DME grounding pin or whatever you find that's neat and clean I did follow the actions and I grounded pin one on the neutral sensor pin two on the rpm sensor pin one on the gearbox temp sensor I grounded those all together and then I actually used a connector in the far top left corner passenger side cowl side corner of the DME box there was an excess ground in there that we used to use for the SMG I just cut stripped spliced crimped and heat shrunk all of my grounds to that which is a nice thick gauge ground and it's worked for us now for fifteen hundred miles and lastly on this diagram we look over to the right we have the b49 longitudinal acceleration sensor this is a sensor that's located under the passenger seat don't worry we don't have to take the passenger seat out or remove the carpeting we don't even need to touch the sensor we do need to repin it away from the SMG harness and into the DME the b49 longitudinal acceleration sensor or yaw sensors I'm calling it was originally grounded into the SMG DME and without the SMG DME in place it now needs to be relocated and just go straight into the X 60,000 one connector on the DME I have more information on this out in the shop when I get back out there with the other camera and I will show you where they were versus where they need to be this tells us that pin 1 goes to pin 9 on the X 60,000 one on the DME and pin two goes to pin 10 on the X 60,000 one on the DME but where were they before right so we're gonna need to know that and then pin three comes up here to pin 11 on the X 60,000 1y that's on top and not on the bottom I don't know so you're gonna spend a lot of time in this diagram maybe you look at a couple other ones we can see more information on some of this stuff by clicking here and then look at a functional description it kind of just gives you an overview of why is it here what does it do how does it work you might find some some useful things in there but just keep clicking around its kind of weird software or an applet or whatever you want to call this website here but it does work and we're back to the shop so a couple little tips and hints here well we're still talking about wiring you want to print this this thing is going to be your best friend or worst enemy for the next couple of days and for me it helped a lot to have it in physical form that as I made the pinnings I could come through here and circle them and just show to myself that they are done you want to have this at the car you want to be able to read this and study it I also printed these out that show us where each individual DME connector is there's two connectors two big connectors on the DME this one has three blocks of pins inside of it this one has four and I think the only three that we really play with are the X 60,000 two in the X 60,000 one gray and black and then the X 60,000 I believe it was the five on that other connector and we only had to put one wire in there some of the wires will need to be plugged in and crimped over and just and just moved into an empty hole that's pretty easy just have to crimp one of the wiring pins on the end of 18 or 22 or 20 gauge wire if you have a crimping tool that'll be fantastic you can get away with just using needlenose pliers the specific BMW tool for crimping is around a thousand dollars and you need two or three of them because there's a couple different types of pins I would certainly not recommend that there are tools that will work at Harbor Freight at other tool stores probably not Lowe's and Home Depot or Walmart or Ace Hardware but good tool stores or electronic stores should be able to sell those of course these pins just break off of this block and then can then be inserted into whatever connector they're going to and there's two ways that these pins attach you have these upper set of fingers or arms and that is where they would make the electrical contact with the wire you would strip off say an eighth of an inch of sheathing and then put the copper in there and then crimp those arms over it and then at the bottom you have these second set of arms that will wrap around and hug the wire insulation to form a strong connection to the pin now it's very important to note this some of the pins we're gonna be moving we're just going to relocate them from the SMG harness to the DME and that would be the yaw sensor they're gonna move from the SMG 52 pin x53 the 0:03 connector pin 18 20 and 23 over to the DME x 60,000 one connector nine ten and eleven so eighteen to nine twenty to ten thirteen to eleven is open ten and eleven are full and you have to splice them and add them to that connector retaining the wire that was originally in there now it's not as simple as just moving them the pins on the SMG x50 3003 connector are square like this and if you put a square pin if you try to put a square pin over a rectangular peg ask me how I found this out as you press the connector back down on to the DME to fully install it it presses the pins and the DME into the DME and it doesn't work so then you remove the connector to see why it's not working and you see that you press the pins down too far into the DME so thankfully you can grab some needle nose pliers and pull them back up where they're supposed to be and it doesn't damage anything but don't make that mistake you do have to change the pins even though they pop right into the harness you have to change them to the proper rectangular shaped pins since the SMG and the DME modules themselves have different pins and the connectors the reverse sensor is not listed on the transmission sensor graph here you're gonna want to go back to new tests do a search for reverse and find the reverse sensor it is a sensor on the transmission and we've already wired it up through the firewall and it should be in your DME box now there's two wires on the reverse sensor you have a negative or ground that just needs to be pinned into any ground in the DME box it doesn't really matter which one get a nice ground make a nice connection the positive from there needs to make its way through the firewall and go into pin number 13 on the LMA the LM a is the light module located up under the drivers under the dashboard on the driver's side you don't need to remove the dashboard as you'll see soon but thankfully we will not be running any wires through the firewall we will make use of an existing wire that's through the firewall that we now no longer need in the SMG harness there are many wires that run into the cabin for for use with the SMG buttons that used to be there and I use the one that went to the shift speed selector button the one that has like five it looks like an AT&T bar logo just take a wire from there it doesn't matter which one make sure that you're able to trace that wire using a continuity tester to make sure it's the same wire and the DME boxes is out in the and the cabin and then we're gonna run that from the reverse sensor to pin 13 on the LMA if pin 13 is open pop it in there make sure the pins right and pop it in there if it's not splice it in I don't recall if that was open or not let's talk about the clutch position sensor there's four pins on the sensor they're clearly labeled on the sensor wiring harness one two three and four one is simply ground that technically needs to ground to the X 18 7:51 ground which is behind the dead pedal in a in a big group of wiring about the same size as your wrist pen two goes to the DME x 60,000 one connector in pin number eighteen which I believe was open it was open pin three goes to the cast the cast is the general module the car access system something like that it's right by the light module up in the in the drivers footwell area kind of by where your knee would be in the only connector that plugs into the cast pin number three pin number three is vacant pin number four also goes to the cast and the same connector pin number 4141 you will find is populated with a blue wire with a black stripe on it that wire actually goes to the SMG harness we don't have an SMG anymore so we can repurpose pin number 41 to go and be our number two since it's already going up to the the DME box so so that's actually pretty easy so we're gonna move pin number 41 on the car access system in the general module to be pin number two on the clutch position sensor that then needs to be moved under the hood in the DME box to pin number 18 on the X 60,000 one in green are the colors of the wires per the diagram this is what they should be if you're working with the pigtail on the clutch position sensor those are your wire colors over here I don't have a black marker I'm not gonna take Sharpie to my whiteboard so I used purple I used a black wire for the ground I used a blue wire for the DME since it was already kind of blue that's a yellow dot that I can actually see on camera much better than in person so that's a yellow wire and that's a green I'll take you over to the car now and show you how this is wired it may not look very neat but this is about as well as you can do unless you're a professional electrician or something like that so we'll start with the ground pin number ones the ground as I said it's supposed to be in a big block back behind the dead pedal I didn't want to tear all that open so I ended up following those wires under the carpeting here just lift it up and there's two ground straps or to ground blocks bolted on to the chassis here and here and what I did was unbolt this that's a ten millimeter not take that off and then I have a bunch of a 39 wiring harnesses here since I parted 40 39 and fives out so I was able to just cut one of these off the harness take it apart pull the Spade out of the e39 harness put the Spade in this II sixty harness there's a bunch of empty slots in there find one that is about the right gauge this is the wire I used here the wiring on the pigtail for the clutch position sensor is 22 gauge this is probably about an 18 but it's close enough and then I used those heat shrinking terminal connectors butt connectors whatever you want to call them to crimp the wires in there and then heat shrink the sides of it so that's that's as good as you're gonna get I'm crap with a soldering iron so that's that's good enough for me and then here's the black new ground that I just zip-tied to the primary harness and ran up there the cast or the general module is up in here and I don't think I'm ever gonna be able to film with this this big camera but it's this wiring harness here and then I have three wires coming out of that remember we repurposed pin number 2 for the DME box and then I just used zip ties and more of those heat shrinking crimps to follow that harness back back behind the dead pedal more zip ties and then right up there is where it mates to the pigtails that go into the clutch position sensor so it's all pretty strong I would say that's all very waterproof moisture proof kick proof any anything that you're gonna see and hear short of a major accident that takes the car out that's all set so that's how we're gonna wire the clutch position sensor actually not too bad seeing that we don't have to make any new runs through the firewall and we just repurposed the existing one that was going into the SMG harness so where we removed it from the SMG harness the BMW diagrams are incorrect it was in one of these gray blocks I don't recall which one it's this why're here it's blue with the black I think it's the only blue wire with the black stripe on it I'm and then I just moved it into this DME harness connector you have to figure out how to take these apart it's not so bad there's just a bunch of tabs it's all pretty self-explanatory once you get in there of course we have to remove that part first there's little tabs on the top you press down and then slide it out so you can slide the big blocks out and it's going in the gray block on this DME connector and it came out of I think it may have been the gray blocks on the SMG connector so you can do a continuity test with your voltmeter make sure it's the same wire here as pin number 41 on the casts in the cabinet okay pinning the SCM the SCM on the pre-facelift East 60 is right here and this is the center console switch you've got to find one of those that replaces your tire pressure monitoring button with the MDM mode it's a tricky thing to find if you have cooled seats or climate-controlled seats I think they called it and/or the active side bolsters that's what buttons would go here and here anyways we found the right panel miraculously on eBay put it in there and all we need to do is find the plug that used to plug in to your DSC button that was here on the SMG shifter surround it's this plug over here it's white it is a four pin connector with three wires in it we're gonna take the blue wire out and we're gonna plug it into the back of the SCM panel and I pull it out like this it's the smallest harness on the left and we're gonna replace the blue and I think violet wire with the blue wire from the DSC switch that's pin number three so we're taking that wire from the DSC plug and moving it into pin three on the smallest SCM connector the old wire there is for the TPMS which we'll have to dig into later or delete or just forget about or whatever so the MDM button will then be functional we need to make one adjustment here at the DSC module on the e60 m5 the DSC module is located behind the front left fender liner which is simply held on with a variety of eight and maybe some 10 millimeter nuts bolts screws etc there's an additional small piece of lining protection material here that doesn't need to fully come off but I think we did have to loosen of its various fastening points once the fender liner comes out we easily see the DSC module and the connector the connector is released by pulling the tab up right here and then it slides off we need to move pin number 41 to pin number 6 pin number 41 is a blue wire that is for the DSC passive signal pin number six is a blue and violet wire that was previously used for the flat tire monitor button up at the center console in the SCM module and we no longer have that button in the SCM module that button is the DSC or MDM button now so we need to make that pinning adjustment this is the old pin number six here which I've just put some electrical tape on and we're just gonna leave it in here I don't feel like I need to cut it off in case we ever wanted to go pack for some crazy reason so this little cover comes off I'm about to snap that back on and bolt this back up getting the pin outs a little tricky here this connectors really complicated essentially you need a really really really small flat extra small jewelry screwdriver or take a old pick tool and put it on a grinding wheel and make something really tiny and you actually press in from the back to depress the locking tab and then pull the wire out with its insulation on there let's talk about wiring the shifter if you're going to use a factory or genuine BMW OEM shifter that has the illuminated shift knob you will need a switched voltage a hot line and a ground line for that now these wires are run all throughout the car the hot line is gray with a red stripe the ground lines are all brown with the old SMG plate here we had the button for shift speed up and down we had power and we had DSC none of those are in use anymore so we can take any of those wires take them apart take them out of the old connector and then you're gonna need to fetch this thing which is the connector that will plug into the factory BMW shift knob if I can find a part number for it I will put it in the part spread sheet below linked in this video eventually when I'm all set with that if not this is one off in e39 it's the same one go to your junkyard cut a pigtail I do have at least one more in stock email me Ryan at the e39 source comm happy to make a sale so I just robbed it out of the little shift speed button took the connector apart took the two pins figured out where they needed to go popped up in here this is totally clean I'm very proud of this wiring there's no cuts no splices it's the right length all ready to go we will not talk about the RDC our PA or tpms all of these are a little bit different it looks like TPMS tire pressure monitoring was used in the e60 m5 after September of O six so this would be your 2007 plus model years this car was made in 2005 makes it a very early car and it used either the RDA or RDC it's actually what the e39 m5 uses the e39 m5 does not have sensors located in the valve stems that wirelessly reports a pressure reading to an antenna that then go to a module and then end up on your dashboard cluster or I drive or mark for whatever navigation system you've got and that's what the e60 is using it's using the wheel speed sensors which there's there's an ultrasonic sensor at each wheel that listens to the the reluctor ring on the wheel hub as it rotates and figures out the speed if one wheel is consistently spinning a little bit slower it can deduce that that tire has deflated a little bit and is causing more drag the system is not as accurate it's not going to tell you the pressure it will only tell you if something is wrong and it needs to be programmed you need to set the tire pressures right and then go drive the car for a little bit and it will learn what the value should be to me it's a perfectly functioning way of having an effective TPMS system then you have TPMS which is full fledged sensors in the valve stems they're quite expensive after 10 years they'll fail and you'll have to replace them and it's not a good time so I think we're better off I'm thankful that this car doesn't have that but if yours does you can either delete the system which I think you may have to do seeing that we have to change the pins and move what used to be the tire pressure reset button to the MDM button I don't know exactly how that works ours somehow still works even though we don't really have a way to reset it now because that button is now the MDM button if you do have TPMS I understand that there's a module in the trunk you'll need to take out the battery it's somewhere back there under everything there's a module back there and you just have to unplug it and just effectively delete the system code it out if you see anything in the vehicle order we'll get to that later in this video it'd be kind of under the license plate under the tire pump and entire bomb there it's just hidden way down in there somewhere there's a module that's what Alex informed me for his 2007 cars April of Oh seven sixty and five that he swapped so we were able to not have to code anything out or delete anything from the vehicle order it just seems to work okay and that would be the wiring portion of this video so we're gonna grab the Mac now we're gonna boot it up into Windows seven and we're gonna talk about NCS and the coding and I'm gonna say right here I am NOT and cannot be responsible for any coding questions you have any software questions you have NCS expert is by far the most complicated and frustrating and difficult software to use that I ever have in my entire life I swore that I would never talk about it in a video or try to make any DIY with it just because it is so frustrating to get set up and working and learn how to use it it's miserable I have spent hundreds of hours probably on YouTube watching videos from other people I do exactly what they do and it doesn't work software versions or different hardware versions or different cars or different languages are different so I'm just going to show you at a very broad overview of what needs to be coded what needs to be programmed what kind of options you're looking for and I guess I'm gonna kind of go through how to look at the vehicle order and how to pull down one of these spec files from a module open in a visual editor make some adjustments save it and then re-upload it to the module but please don't come to me with questions I'm not going to reply before we jump back on the Mac this is the cable that I'm going to use to connect NCS expert to the car this is a k+ d can obd2 cable with pins seven and eight bridged this is important for I think that early model year East sixties it won't work if they're not bridged I opened this up years ago and just soldered them together and on a 2006 model year sixty m5 it works fine some of the nicer cables have a switch where you can actually bridge or open and close the circuit between seven and eight okay welcome back so at this point we need to have the car key in position two which is all the lights on gauges are active but the engines not running you also want to turn off any electrical loads you have on the car climate control radio a radar detector or whatever interior lights whatever you should also have a charger on the battery in a low lower amperage setting at this point because we may be here I probably spent about six hours figuring this out I could do it now and a lot less than that but it does take time the first thing we're gonna do is open inpa and we want to get a look at the the module software versions ideally in fact you do you want your modules to be as updated as possible preferably 2007 or later programming the next thing we're gonna talk about in a few minutes will be + daf that's how you're unable to fully fully overcome or defeat DSC and be able to turn that off and unfortunately that you just software written before about 2007 in these modules doesn't even know about that feature so it can't activate a feature it doesn't know about so we need to be able to look at our current software versions to do that we open inpa and we're gonna run over to f4 for east 60 then we're gonna go to functional jobs double click that click OK and then f3 f3 will take a moment to query all the modules when they were last updated and then we'll get a list of each module we'll get a list of their part numbers what car they are from if that vin is coded and then we'll get the last coding date so if you see things in here from 2004 and 2005 like I do those modules aren't gonna be smart enough to know about the newer stuff thankfully those modules don't matter we care about modules such as DSC such as the CAS LM a SCM Kombi which is your instrument cluster and then your navigation which is C ap PL or CIC if all of your dates are before 2007 or so or before March 2007 you're gonna want to take your car to a dealer and just request that they update the vehicle modules I don't know what they charge for that it's gonna save you a lot of headache later so just get it done so we'll need to launch NCS expert if you don't have it don't know or don't know how to use it let somebody who has it and knows how to use it handle this job because this does get pretty complicated so with the application open we can go to file load profile and then I believe I just used this profile for the majority of this coding so we click on OK now we have to go to f1 we have to go to f3 we have to go to e 60 and then ok and it doesn't really matter what you select here I'm going to select Kass after that selection we see the FG and FA parameters populate the FG gives us the vin followed by a P I don't know what the P means the FA gives us a full list of the vehicle order so with this software we're looking to accomplish two types of jobs type one being modifying the vehicle order the vehicle order is what is written to various modules throughout the car that tell the vehicle here's the options you have and here's the options you don't have so it knows what components to look for the other jobs are going to be changing the coding parameters in various modules to tell them that they no longer have and should be looking to communicate with or provide data for the SMG but rather the manual transmission and we're gonna have to do this and I went through every module two or three times this is why it took so long and I recommend you do the same unless you're very comfortable at this software I can tell you there's a lot of things to change in the instrument cluster in the CA APL which is the CIC or CCC excuse me I Drive you'll have to change things in CIC as well pretty much everything but the DME because the software can't read a DME we're just gonna flash the DME later with manual software so let's talk about changing the vehicle order first so we'll click F 2 which is enter FA again will confirm East 60 will confirm ok this is now the vehicle order if you were to decode all of these options they would mean something for example to MA this is the first thing you want to add to MA is the option code for manual transmission so to add something like that it is dollar sign the number 2 M a Mike alpha so you would come up here in attribute type dollar sign to a and then you would click Add if you wanted to remove one you would select it and then the delete key I'm on a MacBook Pro my key that says delete ism is a backspace key back space is not delete so what I have to do here is open the on-screen keyboard make my selection of let's say I want to delete two MA and then click the delete button and now it's gone if I want to add it back again dollar sign to a and add and there it is back again so that's the first thing you want to do is add that now if you have a car that was manufactured before September of 2006 because that's when the manual became an option for the 2007 model year you want to change your build date your build date is written to the vehicle order it is pound sign two-digit month two-digit year so originally mine said pound zero nine zero five I deleted that value and added pound zero nine zero six that tricks the car into thinking it's a year newer than it is and allows it to use that to MA option I'll talk about this later in the video but getting the MDM button to work which is the traction control button getting that to be able to fully defeat DSC this was not an option in 2007 there was no way to turn DSC fully and completely off when the e60 m5 came to the US with a manual because BMW didn't want i hear that BMW didn't want to deal with warranty claims and bad clutches and people doing clutch dumps and burnouts and it makes sense people are stupid so there was no way to fully turn off DSC well later as warranty started to run out and people complained there is a way to turn off DSC completely what you need to do is add Plus D o FF to the vehicle order plus DAF so add that in there and then you would click OK now what we've done we've changed the vehicle order but it hasn't written it it has not written it to the car yet so we need to go back then we're going to process ECU we want to write the vehicle order to two modules number one is the castes so we'll click ok we'll do the caste first we'll click OK again to confirm then we want to change job and that would be F a right F a right is going to write the new vehicle order to the general module you would okay and then you would click on execute job I'm not gonna write anything to the vehicle order because it works and I don't want to screw with it so that would be how you we write the job to the cast now let's say we want to write it to the LMA that's the second module we have to write the vehicle order - so we would come over here to change ECU we would scroll down to the LMA click OK click OK make sure that job is still FA right and then execute job to get + DAF to actually work we now need to write blank dot man files to several different modules we need to reset those parameters have let them reread the vehicle order from the cast and LMA to do that we're going to change job to SG code earrin that means code click OK we're gonna change ECU and we're gonna write just a blank file you don't have to just click execute after you select the module here we're gonna do this on the casts LM a DSC and your navigation which for CIC is C Appl if you have CIC it might be called CIC so write those blank files by selecting the different modules looks for example there's DSC ok the job is confirmed at SG code Darren ok and then we would just write we just click execute and that would just write a blank file up to the modules now you're gonna have to do this for each one so you change ECU and come back over here and select a different one and ok and then execute job again now do that before you go in there and change all your settings and set it up for a manual otherwise it might overwrite some of that so kind of add plus toff here in the beginning the second thing we want to do in NCS expert is be able to reprogram these modules and it's taken me years to figure out how to do it and it's because nobody explained it to me and I'm gonna attempt to explain it in the best way that I have found so we launch the application again we have to go to file load profile pick whatever one works for you click OK F 1 F 3 e 60 ok ok it's gonna take a moment pulling that vehicle order again and the VIN will click on back now let's do let's pick an ECU to go and look at all the settings for let's pick let's pick DSC we'll click OK we'll click OK again now this software was probably some time before I was born it's pretty all and we want to do two things we want to firstly query the module and download so to speak the preference file the preference file is what the module has in it that tells it what it is and what to do and how it's programmed so first thing we have to do is download it and to do that we need to come over here to F to change job and then it's this code ear dot date and lesson I don't know German I don't know these abbreviations but it's that one that's the one to read it we click OK and we click on execute job now with the DSC module when you execute the job to read it it shows up in the car and gives you a DSC error the DSC module doesn't like to be queried don't worry about it any lights that come on will come off later now we can see that coding ended the job is done so now we're going to go to another application this is NCS dummy we're gonna launch that application up the top chassis make sure that says e 60 now we need to know what module to look for so we come back over here to NCS expert we can see that the module name here is down here it's MK 60 on the score M 5 dot C 15 okay MK 60 M 5 C 15 so we come over to module look for MK 65 dot C 15 ok now we go to browse and we want to browse to local disk C NCS expert without the T and then work and we want to select this fsw underscore PSW trace the trace file is the file that has the Preferences in it and we double-click and here is the preference file largely in English and now we can program this to whatever we want by checking boxes visually so obviously here we have an option for BMW M transmission there's an option for manual and there's an option for sequential guess what it used to be selected to sequential so obviously we change that to manual now we have the tyre puncture warning you could turn that off nicht active is not active or not enabled so we can just turn these features on or off here and then we can scroll down and see if there's anything else we need to adjust the dynamic Stability control DSC switch off I have that set to enabled I think that is going to matter here I do remember there being two Changez I wanted to make in this module obviously one of them being the manual transmission so you can kind of look at my settings here and this is what works for us now when you're ready to save this file you want to come over here to export f SW / p SW click that and then export f SW p SW dot man so you've now saved your trace file as a man file now we want to go back to NCS expert and we want to quote upload unquote this new file with the new preferences back to the DSC module so what we'll do is go to change job SG code Aaron that is the coding job click OK and then you would click on execute I'm not going to sense mine's already working but you would click execute it would take all of a couple of seconds to upload that new file to the module at which point you would cycle your key and hopefully have your new settings saved now I'm gonna do one more here we're gonna download one that has a lot of options like the CA ppl so we'll select that module and we're gonna change the job to read which is code dear Dayton lesson ok and execute coding is now active and now coding is ended so we want to look for CCC underscore app dot CoA so we come back over here CCC underscore app dot CoA let it load that click browse go to the trace file select it'll load our file in here and here we are and you're gonna spend a lot of time in here reading through every one of these options looking for things that you want to change and honestly you find a lot of cool stuff you can disable the warning thing that comes up every time you start the car or just set it to automatically accept that you can turn other features on and off there's a ton of stuff in here that you can code in program but anywhere where you see an option for a manual transmission or a sequential or an SMG or an SSG uncheck the sequential manual and select the manual it's that simple just read through the options and figure out what makes sense I took screenshots and a lot of a lot of things that I changed and this is in the K MBI which is the Kombi which is the instrument cluster so here we see transmission type there's your SSG or manual transmission so anywhere you see that just make changes to manual here's another one in the cast this said fault memory handling for sport sequential gearbox SSG enabled or not enabled change it to not enabled last example there's probably 20 to 30 different things you have to code so I'm just I'm not gonna go through every one of them but here also in the cast you have this option for transmission gear count 5 6 or 7 speed of course you will want to change that to 6 speed at the end of the day I recommend you just read through each module specifically the navigation the cluster the general module the light module and the DSC module just read through every one of these make sure your batteries plugged in your laptop's fully charged get a glass of water go through it all read each one some of them don't have an English description generally speaking that means it's something you probably shouldn't be playing with and don't play with it if you don't know what it is don't mess with it and then again when you're done with this file you would go export FS w PS W dot man it saves the file back to expert we're gonna change the job to s G code earrin ok and then you would click on execute to write those changes ok and the last thing we've got to talk about here regarding coding and programming will be the actual DME flash itself the DME of course being the engine computer needs to be flashed to software that is the the manual version so to say the the stock software that was on this car obviously an SMG tune was programmed to talk to the SMG ECU for all transmission related functions including the sensors that were on the transmission clutch control the hydraulics all of that and that needs to change so until you flash the DMA you're not going to know if any of your wiring works regarding all the sensors on the transmissions and then the coding and the programming that we've been talking about throughout this video flashing the DME to the manual software you can do yourself a dealer won't do it they won't touch it we tried that I was unable to figure out how to do it myself unfortunately when kfp is the software I think you need you need a ZB number that kind of tells the software what firmware or what software version it needs to be installing and for our application we wanted the one I will include it in the description below it is us cars non SMG there's all sorts of different versions for different countries that have poor fuel quality and stuff like that but for us we wanted just us a non SMG otherwise it's n be 93 North American spec manual and that Flash software flash takes all of about 15 minutes to write to the DME as you do that and any of this coding you want to make sure that your battery is plugged in to either a voltage regulator preferably or at a bare minimum a battery trickle charger I was able to get away with using this thing which I've used on DME tunes on the e39 for years this guy I think I picked up from Turner I'll try to remember to leave a link down below I used it on its middle setting it has the slow 2 amp charge a 20 amp boost and then an 80 amp start so we did that on the 20 amp just to make sure that that power was good their battery connections tight and all that so after that happened we cycled the key and then it came up and was complaining about the neutral sensor it's no longer looking for any of the SMG stuff but now it's looking for the manual stuff and we had a problem with the neutral sensor and as I mentioned earlier I had just incorrectly pinned that ground wire so once I retraced the correct wire made the made the adjustment everything was fine so after your DME flash is done you're ready to drive the car and before you do that you should take about 10 minutes and do a complete walk around of the vehicle and make sure that it is Road worthy you've done a lot of work you want to make sure that everything is torqued your wheels your driveline components make sure everything's tight and at spec you of course want to make sure everything's plugged back in including your ABS module you want to make sure all your trim is back in place just make sure the car is safe and roadworthy it's really easy to be super excited to drive it and oh we're done we got it coated and programmed and now we're ready to go drive it and you didn't realize that you only had three wheels torqued down the car and that's not good for anybody and I've got to give a huge thanks to Alex for coming all the way down here from Long Beach and bringing his equipment and taking care of that DME tune for me I've given enough motivation and time sure I would have gone in and figured it out but what a miserable thing and he had the equipment and was able to come down and take care of it for us and then he was actually here for our first drive so that was a lot of fun now in the first two video parts here I've been talking about the spreadsheet that I'm going to make available and I want to take just a couple minutes here to show you where that is how to get it and how do it so you'll firstly need to navigate over to e39 source comm /downloads and i've recently kind of revamped this entire page reorganized everything made sure all these links work and and removed the comment section from here because that was useless but there's a ton of resources here including navigation software owner's manual installation PDFs retrofit PDFs BMW documentation just all sorts of stuff that I've been scouring the internet for for years and I think having it in one place that is easy to read easy to navigate and free to download is super useful so if you haven't yet been here I would encourage you to make your way over to be 39 source calm slash downloads and if we go to East 60 here and take a look at the second thing on the list under the owners manual it's BMW e60 m5 manual transmission conversion we give that a click and it will immediately download a dot xlsx which is a success spreadsheet if you do not have Microsoft Excel installed you will need that you could also use OpenOffice for free it can read XLS X's it's a read-only document don't worry about a password just open it as read-only you do not need to edit this document and there are three pages in here the intro is I felt like I was back in college I put this together just as a a broad overview of what are we doing why are we doing it what do we need and what is in this document required tools required skills general overview prerequisites supplements and required software and just just all that information and then over on the right there's that Z USB number for the non SMG cars for the DME we have links to the m5 board thread that I used ECS tuning FCP euro real OEM new tests the e39 source video series this is all here in page one down at the bottom we head over to the parts list this is the parts list used on our car on a 2006 2005 production east 60 m5 yours may vary if you're doing this on an O 8 9 or 10 those are LCI cars they have a different center console switch panel there's some slightly different wiring the majority and the mechanical aspects of the job are the same but there are some differences the parts part of the spreadsheet here is actually pretty smart it is broken down by transmission by my wheel drive shaft and then any of these blue this blue text these are all links so if we click on drive shaft it'll open your browser of choice and it will show you the part number explosion of the drive shaft so here you can see the specific length difference the s2 ma a drive shaft the manual drive shaft is indeed 31 millimeters longer so these are just all very quickly linked same thing with the parts if we want to look at this hydraulic line we can just click on that and it's going to jump right over to real OEM and show us there's the hydraulic line here's the part numbers here's the applications if we click on the part number in Rio lo em it'll show us which cars it was used on that it superseded that part number that it was used from 9 106 and later it's a ton of information here and it's pretty easy to use also we see the FCP euro manual conversion kit and if we are to click on that link I want to take a moment again and talk about FCP FCP has assembled a really really good kit here it is not a hundred percent but this is a lot of stuff that you need and there's a full description of exactly what's included here and the pricing and the majority of these components are genuine BMW or in the case of luke and phoebe Bilstein they are original equipment components so instead of having to buy I don't know 30 different parts separately you can just get the kit and well we're here looking at FCP gyro I've got to again give them a huge thanks for helping to sponsor this video series I greatly appreciate that and what FCP euro is doing here offering a lifetime replacement on anything and everything they sell is super unique and I always used the same example so I'm gonna try to come up with something different this time let's say wiper blades wiper blades are a consumable part depending on where you live will last a year or five years or rarely more than ten years and let's say you buy them genuine BMW Bosch whatever you buy them from FCP euro you receive them you install them on your vehicle and in a couple years they're falling apart again send them back and you get a new set for free the lifetime warranty from FCP euro very unique very cool I think there may actually be one more part in the series on this video and and that'll just kind of be what does it cost should I di Wyatt what I do another one of these if you bring it to my shop here in Escondido and who is this DIY for because there's definitely there's definitely a specific group of people that are able to DIY it and some who aren't but there's a certain amount of people that just shouldn't even do it their car is better with an SMG than it is a six-speed but there's absolutely a large number of people that for what they use the car for how they like to drive the car the manual transmission is a better alternative and I think I'd like to talk about that and if you guys would like to hear it let me know in the comments below and we'll do kind of a part 4 about what does it cost and who is this for lastly here in the spreadsheet torque specs it's the third page we click on that it's super easy read this document like this you are torquing these components to these components with this torque in Newton meters these are foot-pounds these are inch pounds this tells you the head of the fastener the size followed by the quantity if there's any notes for example these torque to yield bolts they will have a torque spec say 55 Newton meters plus 90 degrees that's a torque to yield bolt anything with a angle torque measurement is a stretch bolt and that hardware needs to be replaced it should not be reused so do take take note of that and anything that should be replaced here is listed in the parts list so you can easily find the part numbers and now finally let's get a look and a listen to what this thing with what it looks like when you start up a manual v6 dm5 see how the cluster looks it is certainly a different layout than it was with the SMG everything in this car is done which I'm really happy about we've actually removed the paddles right now I'm waiting to find a good manual wheel to buy so there are some holes back there if you feel for it but certainly looks better without the paddles on there so I'll put the key in since I just had it on or the battery arm will start it it it starts faster with the manual than the SMG the SMG you'd press the button several seconds would go by and then it would start now it's pretty much instant when you press the button the car just starts off which I really like now I hate warning lights on dashboards so I'm going to put my seatbelt on turn the parking brake off and we can see that there's not one warning or indicator or fault light on here this is exactly how it should look the top display now displays of course depending on how you have things coded in the combi or the instrument cluster the way I have it coded we can have two options in there and the options are toggled based on the buttons at the end of the turn signal stock here we have a check button on top and a b c or board computer button on the bottom the top button toggles through the top screen the bottom button toggles through the bottom screen so we'll zoom in try to get this in focus and I'll show you that the option number one is time and temperature which i think is very useful and should always be right in front of you press it again and there's the date which I also think should be in front of you in a buttons push so that's the top display the bottom display instead of showing it reverse neutral one two three four five six or seven or the red cog of death now shows us a variety of different useful things this one is I coated this on an NCS expert and this just shows us our V or velocity our speed as you drive down the road in a digital readout which is nice and responsive and a nice easy way to see how fast you're going option number two is your oil we're a little over full right now option three this is also an option encoding you can just have a blank display it leaves the backlight on but it doesn't show you anything else if you're more of a minimalist up next you have your range calculator your mpg calculator and then back to speed so with the SMG down here we had a power button we could toggle between 4 and 500 horsepower that button no longer exists thankfully we're able to go into I Drive we were able to push in for I to get into settings then we're gonna go over to M Drive here and the M Drive button configures the M button here on the steering wheel so you can configure this button to do whatever you want the way I like it is EDC at comfort DSC still on and then power in P 500 sport so this is how you would activate your power when you want to get into power 500 mode program it to either you know 400 horsepower which is the basic sloppy throttle mode 500 still has the sloppy throttle but 500 horsepower supposedly and then sport actually makes the throttle connect to something so we toggle that so as I press that M button now which I do immediately after starting this car every single time the throttle gets nice and sharpened and we're into 500 horsepower mode the EDC button I think was below power maybe that was all the way at the bottom but that button is obviously no longer here and the shifter that button moves over here and it's a very simple installation we just take the wire where it used to plug in over here and plug it in here there's no pins or no coding or anything that has to change for that it works just as you would expect it to and then lastly in here we had DSC that button is no more it's been replaced by MDM which is M dynamic mode it's a bit more of an aggressive setting for the traction control if we press that button once like that we see the MDM lights up on the on the cluster if we wanted to we could program our M button to turn on M dynamic mode for us so now with M mode off if I press the M button it automatically brings up MDM for us now the trick here is the plus toff thing that we coded 10 minutes ago so if I press and hold the MDM button MDM comes on to three seconds there's DSC full off shows us DSC is an active DSC as in active over here and that is full disabling of the DSC system to enable it again we just press the MDM button and it goes back into its on position so we can toggle between off fully off MDM and fully on and then of course in the M drive under DSC if we want that to just fully turn off DSC every time we select that to off we'll toggle the M mode and there is DSC completely off everything in here is exactly how it should be it's exactly what it should look like and it works exactly how it should work the shifter illuminates in a beautiful red I did not mention in the last video the newer shifter which is March 2007 plus for your Oh 8 9 and 10 model years not only does it have a different shaped cutout but as it's plugged in it illuminates orange matching everything else in the interior I always thought it was a little odd that these things illuminated in red but I actually like it it feels a bit more special than they weren't if you have made it this far in this video please leave a comment leave some sort of a comment saying that you either have no life or you're interested in doing this and I appreciate it we've made it this far to the end of part three that is at this time all the information I am planning on providing for the conversion of a 6-speed manual transmission and an SMG 60 m5 somebody at some point may ask me what's it like on an m6 it is probably about the same thing though you'd have different interior trim and maybe a different definitely a different length driveshaft and at this point I recommend you don't even look for or don't look very hard for a factory 6-speed manual tribe shaft I think you want to find a custom driveshaft shop and give them the specs we're going to bring them your old one and just say add 31 millimeters here in between that centre support bearing and the transmission output shaft that's kind of the words of advice I will leave you with here today so again thank you for watching part 3 leave comments and questions down below be sure to download and read the spreadsheet at e3 9 source com /downloads and and finally let me know what you would like to see next a review versus the SMG a review versus the e39 of course available with a manual or more supplemental instructions let me know what the demand is and I'll do my best to fulfill it we'll talk in the next e39 source video Thanks
