Painting SISTERS OF BATTLE | COMBAT PATROL Adepta Sororitas | You Decide | WARHAMMER 40k |

hi everyone it's Henry here and this is the first video in our next combat patrols Series so I'm going to take a look at the sisters of battle combat Patrol I'm gonna run through my ideas for how I want it to look um how I'm going to achieve a gaming Army um so something that looks really fantastic on the tabletop that I can get done in a realistic amount of time I'm going to take a look at a couple of the the major different sort of units that we're getting in the Box things like the tank the repentia and then the sisters themselves and at the end of the project we'll look back and see if there's anything we've learned in particular or that we might want to tweak for the next one all the while taking a look at your questions over the course of the videos now sisters is a personal favorite of mine I absolutely loved the second edition book when it came out my mate Anne had a what beautiful painted army of them um the classic is it all the Rob Marta lady the black and the white and the red one um and actually that's a point my one of my major focuses with this is I don't want to do black and red yes it looks awesome I absolutely love the combination but I think it's used an awful lot in Warhammer stuff and particularly with um Inquisition or or more of the Baroque type thing like you know it doesn't get much more Grim dark in my opinion and things like sisters of battle um so I just wanted to challenge myself and do not use the black and red combination but I do want to try and go for a bit more of a grim dark vibe that for instance we did without Strike Force aghasters recently now I'm going to do a couple of test models in this video so as usual when we're doing testers we're going to execute them to about 80 of the level that we want them to be at at the end but it should give us a really good idea before we then go and put some paint on our actual models and thankfully I had a couple in the box that Andy gave me years ago um so whilst I'm waiting for my combat Patrol to arrive I can do a few of these testers so let's paint [Applause] first up we're just going to a couple of notes on sub assemblies and prepping the models I like to paint my models off the base usually on a cork and this is particularly important I think with the sisters when we've got to get up into these robes which I think put them on the base it's just going to make it too awkward however they've got teeny tiny feet you know they're very slender models and drilling into them and pinning them I found I was accidentally you know drilling through the plastic um so all I've done is used a bit of sprue pinned that to the base and then I've just tacked the model onto that bitter sprue with a bit of super glue so I can snap it off easily later when I get the actual combat Patrol box as well I think I'm going to Blue tackle the backpacks on um just to let me get even better access to the whole miniature and say these models I got off Andy they were all pre-done and stuff so they're just um they're all they're all assembled already now one of the schemes I wanted to do um I'd seen a few of these these variations on sort of white or bone or Ivory type schemes I thought that's pretty nice that's that's something a bit different so I've base coated the model using Tamiya Flat Earth which as you can see it's all the light brown color I've thinned that about two or three drops of Tamiya x20a thinner to the paint and I've just got a solid base coat down and then the main color is going to be another Tamiya Paint This Time It's called medium gray and although it's medium gray I actually think it's a lot more like a very light sort Tang color like a deck tan color it's not decked and they have dectan they have like a billion different Grays and rounds Tamiya so if you like that sort of thing go and check that range out just one thing to bear in mind when you're using tamios you do need to use the Tamiya thinners even though they're acrylics they're a solvent based acrylic paint so using your normal thinners with them it's not going to look great now you can see I'm building up the layers of this medium gray I've thinned it slightly more than the base coat so maybe four drops of thinner to one drop of paint I'm just slowly building it up leaving some of that brown in the recesses and I'm sort of deciding there's a light source from the front right and the back right as we look at it nice and simple if you don't have an airbrush just rattle can it on that sort of color that you want now I'm going to do one of my favorite things which is to use oil paints to just add a little bit of uh interest more interest to the uh the paint that we've already got on there so I've chosen a dark brown uh a sort of buff color and a very light blue color and all we're going to do is put little dots of neat oil paint all over and generally I'm going to put the darker dots where the Shadows are more and then the lighter dots where the highlights are more but I will make sure there's a spread of them across the model now this is a real sort of bust size version of oil dot filtering or paint rendering that you'll see in the military modeling style of painting um I really like what it does to my paint um to to the paintwork on the model particularly over airbrush work I find Once that's on there like that neat I then take my brush dip it in some thinners wipe them all off and then I can just use that brush to blend them into the surface and what I find it does is it just sort of soften some of those airbrush transitions but then it also to me gives just lovely interesting little streaks and little changes of color on the armor now when we come to do things like the tank you'll see this in much darker detail much bigger panels it's much more obvious but hopefully you can see how that has changed um that that color that we had underneath it and just giving it a bit more and a bit more bite to it I just I enjoy it the reason I'm thinking about this a lot is because I will when I look back on this decide were there stages that were redundant which I think is always worth you know don't just do something because that's what you've always done or that's what someone tells you to do think about why you're doing each step that's what I try and do anyway now I've given the model a couple of coats of gloss varnish here I'm using the layer of polyurethane gloss thinned two or three drops of normal airbrush thinner and all the time I'm spraying about 30 PSI 25 to 30 PSI 0.4 millimeter needle and nozzle in our harder and steam Coldplay infinity and that's to prep it for a pin wash and now I've done our video dedicated recess washing and the different materials you can use for it but I'm going to use oils for this one because I like using them and two because I think the look of oils is synonymous with sort of the Grim dark Vibe I've chosen sipia here sepia sepia and now you say it this dark brown color and you can see the wash as I'm popping it on the rim there it's not too thick it's not too heavy um we will use a heavier wash later on when we come to our other scheme and because of that high gloss surface so this low surface tension because of the gloss and then low surface tension because of the solvent in the oil all that paint's just wicking into those recesses and leaving the flat areas nice and clear now once I'm doing this I just want to take a quick moment to say thank you ever so much for all of the support you give us over on patreon it allows us to produce the videos we do over here and the videos that we produce exclusively for patreon um it's just awesome you know me and Andy are so incredibly appreciative of the support you guys give us and that you allow us to take on these projects um and incidentally it was really lovely to see the response to that recent aghastus video um if you guys want to see a bit more of this Army painting more on mass than just on one model I'm more than happy to start grabbing up combat patrols and little kill team boxes and things like that and painting through them um to have a look at you know it's great fun for me um and you've all said that you're more than happy to have sort of two or three videos on a subject um providing it's you know sort of interesting enough warrant set so once I've applied that pin wash I've let it dry maybe 10-15 minutes add a cup of tea basically then I've come back and with a soft brush just dip tints and thinners took all of the excess water off water off mineral spirits off I'm just cleaning up any of that oil that might have sat or pooled on any of the flat surfaces where I don't want it this stage is whilst it is a pin wash and it is designed to bring a little bit of definition into the model I actually like that it's filtered the model and given it that slightly grungy look I'm not too fussed that it hasn't necessarily given me super definition all over we can address that a little bit later now because of gloss varnish the model it's going to be quite hard to paint the rest of it because the gloss surface is not going to take the paint very well so I'm just going to give it a quick spray with some matte Varnish in this case ultramap it really doesn't matter and this is so the other areas of the model now have a matte finish so the paint will take to them well when we paint it now other than the Armor I think the standout part of the sisters model or certainly the battle sisters I'm going to keep on sister battle I know it's a depth of sorority sorry um I've just always called them scissors about that's how I've known them but I think this unit is called a battle sister um so that's you know it's kind of close but yeah the armor and the cloaks so they're the two things that I absolutely want to nail all the other details and there are a lot of them we can do quite simply and they'll still look cool but what we really want to get right is the armor and the cloaks so I've chosen to go for a sort of purpley pink on the inside of this so I've done a couple of Base coats using galval back by Games Workshop excuse me and now I'm going to layer over screamer pink you can see as the paint's going on it's quite thin so we need to make sure we'd have too much on our brush otherwise it's going to leave large deposits and then you get those weird little tie marks and stuff when they dry and all we're doing rather than the the classic sort of heavy metal style where we paint the most prominent outside parts of the robe will be the lightest and then the Deep recesses will be the darkest we're going to paint it a little bit more like how the Rope the material would look if the light was hitting it from above so any surfaces that are the most sort of perpendicular to the light source above will be the lightest and any facing directly away from it will be the darkest and for me the simplest way to do this is to work up from the shadow use nice thin layers that way if you put a bit where you don't want it it's really easy to then glaze it back using the previous color to either darken it down or just blend it in and we do want nice smooth Blends on these robes I didn't want to airbrush them because they're all over the model and airbrushing them you're gonna have to do a lot of masking and you're not necessarily always going to be able to hit the right points with the airbrush as well so I think using a brush to do this it works perfectly well and here you can see I'm just going to start glazing back in with that unhighlighted screamer pink so it won't gavel back screamer pink and then I just added a little bit of white into screamer pink for the final highlight for the black robes I base coated them using model color black it's my favorite black paint use whatever you want to do and I'm just going to go for one highlight and I'm going to use petroleum gray by scale 75. it's a lovely gray color it's got I think maybe purple or something in it um but it's just got that bit of color it's not like a super desaturated gray and I think it just particularly on black I think that works really really well I think if you use really desaturated gray sometimes when you highlight black a particularly cloth where we've got to do these large highlights you're in danger of it ending up looking potentially looking gray when it's nice little sharp edge highlights on things like Boulder casings and stuff like that I don't think it really matters but for me I think that little bit of added color really really helps and you can see here on the back I'm just going to slowly build it up so I'm just thinking the lights coming from above maybe slightly to the left as we look at it all those surfaces facing it will get that highlight and then a step I also did on the purple is I went back in with the darkest color so in this case black just make sure that those surfaces that were facing directly away from the light were nice and dark so the robes by far took the longest part of the model to do but you're still not talking more than I don't know 10 minutes or something for the model um you know we're only really doing one maybe two highlights at a push um and that was only really because that road was you know on the front and there wasn't an awful lot of purple on there so I thought it would be nice to give it a bit of a bit of something um you know we're not taking it through to display level we're not going through umpteen different highlights just nicely placed deliberate highlights I did do a black and red tester just because I love it but hopefully you can see there again that's exactly the same just one highlighted red over the dark I think it gives you enough um enough interest in the model and once that was done I wanted to do a little bit of sort of edge highlighting come battle damage um sort of Tippy tappy chipping I'm not going to do lots of rust or dark you know corrosion and stuff on these models um one of the major reasons is I think as soon as you do a bone colored model like this um I think a lot of people sort of death Gardener but those kind of things come to mind rust and all that looks incredible over this color but I think it does take you that way and also you know this their whole Army of Faith you know they're burning away heresics all that sort of thing so I thought chips and stuff is fine but I'm gonna not go too heavy on the corrosion so all I did was do a little bit of carrack stone Tippy tapping along those edges and that adds some definition as well as some more interest to that armor now I mentioned a minute ago how the pin wash hadn't necessarily given as much Shadow to those recesses that I wanted and therefore hadn't brought as much definition as I wanted so here I'm taking a color olive drab very similar color and I'm just going to paint that in to the recesses so this is kind of like black lining which used to be a technique that was used tons in the 90s with Miniatures painting and for me that's that extra level of definition which is exactly what I want particularly for tabletop Miniatures you need to be able to identify what those Miniatures are you know at a glance and that really helps now at this point we spent a fair bit of time on the armor and the robes so we can keep the details super simple I've used necro gold which is a lovely old gold sort of looking color for all the gold parts and then I've mixed up a bit of silver and black to create a very dark silver that I'm going to use for the bulk gun we'll talk about silver very shortly when we do the um do the next model and then once it's dry all I've washed over it is a mix of gray and brown oils this is the same mix that we're going to use when we paint the silver scheme in a minute where it will go into the exact ones we used but again just that simple base color wash and then a little highlight later it's all we need to do these details whilst they're cool let's let's let the sculpt do the work for us right we're just going to color them in make them look nice simple defined Posh done it's the armor and the robes that are really what these models are all about in my opinion and actually I'm undecided but I think I'm going to put helmets on most of my sisters and that's largely because that just wasn't an option back in the day you know you have one or two helmeted models when the whole range was metal and I just think they look so cool with the helmets but I haven't decided I don't really think it'll be that much quicker to do them with helmets um than do them without helmets the the the they're very tiny heads can actually you know you're not having that many models in the Army anyway um so if you did want to paint them all helmetless I think you'd be absolutely fine to do that and still achieve this in a realistic time frame now for the eye lenses nice and simple I've taken a very dark green despair green over black just wash that into the uh the eye socket as it were the lens and then I'm going to keep adding moot green so almost fluorescent sort of bright green I'm going to keep adding that into my despair green and I'm just going to create a nice sharp highlight along the bottom edge of the lens and I'm going to fill it in a little bit more towards the center of the face as well I'm not going to bother with a white dot or anything like that I just want a sort of nice glowy not not glowy but just a softer lens um than perhaps I would do on say a marine lens just for the sake of something a little bit different and as usual if you do that highlight line a little bit fat you can go back in with the darker color here so this is the despair green and just neaten it up very very simple to do and you'll smash through a squad a lenses you know in a little hobby session there so for the silver scheme originally I was going to do I think it's called Art I unveil I think they're called and they've got white and tan robes and they look wonderful I did one and I was like you're just not doing an army like this in my opinion the time it was taking me to do the brush painted white robes and tan robes I was like it's just it's just not going to happen so as cool as that scheme was I'd rather have an army that was a percentage less cool but done than one sister model um so I've taken an exhaust manifold here by metal color series and I've added in a drop of black so this is what we did on the Bolter previously let's give me a nice dark silver to start with then I've taken a Dura aluminum this is also by metal color series I like using the metal color series paints um they're designed for the airbrush I find I have to use a drop of flow improver um just to help them do their thing um so you know you you might vary you know I don't know what your setups are but I found that helps when I'm using it but what really matters here is we're using a really really dark silver a medium silver but they're still nice and Flaky and and bright and then we're going to use a light even lighter silver at the end here just called Silver as you can see there so effectively black gray and white and all the time I'm just using same pressure 25 to 30 PSI same airbrush that I've used for everything so far you see that the airbrush work is it's simple it's not just straight xenophils so straight from above just highlighting the piece of plastic you know we're going in and trying to replicate what those surfaces would look like if there was light shining on them and they were life-size but it's not difficult um you know it's just a bit of control so you can see the two together at that same stage of armor so very very quick um step to do which is great which again is what we want um I always want to take things further and I think that's one of the reasons why armies don't get dumb now the wash for this I really wanted to grunge this up and this is a something I came up with when I was working on my recent slaves to Darkness project which is still ongoing but all the armor is done thankfully and this is one of the uh the recipes I used for that I made a mix-up using Starship uh fill for wash can't remember what's called you'll see in the tube and sepia again so effectively Brown and gray and roughly 50 50 mix and this is going to be a much heavier wash and this is because I want this to really stain that silver surface really Grime it up and give us that almost archetypal Grim dark kind of feel so if you use mineral spirits to mix it up and I'm going to use a synthetic brush to apply it but you can see there how much thicker that wash mix is than the one we did earlier foreign ly because we haven't lost the miniature um but also partly because it's a much thicker mix you can see how it is staying on those surfaces now we don't need to Varnish the miniature oil paints mineral spirits they're not going to react with your acrylic paint that's on there I'm providing that acrylic paint is dry so once I've done one layer I let it dry then I've gone back in and I've been a little bit more deliberate now with a second coat of it just to make sure there's plenty of grime and dirt and Shadow in those recesses and around those details and again I'll let that dry for another 10-15 and I will go in and repeat this repeat the process again so let's add three coats of this oil wash so it's acting as much like a filter as it is like a pin wash and all the rest of it I'm not going to do the reductive thing where I'm going to take any of it off I'd rather be more deliberate when I put it on initially now this is I went in the end rather than the white and the town I've gone for brown and black um I was teasing our commission's chief Ben um when he was like I'd love to do sisters you know like a brown scheme I was like that would look awful um and turns out he was right which is why he's an incredible Christians painter and you should go and get in touch with him um but uh yeah it just it looked really cool um so I went for a base coat of rhinox hide a nice warm brown color and then my highlight I chose was thondia brown uh both by Games Workshop again a nice warm Brown and this was quite deliberate um because I wasn't quite sure how I was going to do the basing I'm still not but also I I knew that whilst there wasn't going to be any red on the model one thing red often does raise bring a bit of warmth you know and that can often um complement the other parts of the model the other colors we've got on it we can do a similar thing with a nice warm brown color and the robes are exactly the same so it's that idea of the lights coming from above what part of the robe would that hit and highlight that's where we go in and paint and sometimes you'll you might feel a bit strange doing it because you'll be painting right in the deepest part of a recess but if that recess as I say is is perpendicular to that light then that's going to be lit up as much as another piece of the cloth is I'm really really looking forward to painting all the robes on this project I often when I pick a personal project pick something that's got either a technique or a color or a surface you know a material that I I want to just improve on a bit and make sure it's got lots of it and then by the end of that project I know I'll have improved that skill set and that's how I feel with this even though we're not going to be taking it past you know one possibly two highlights and if I wanted to add a highlight to this I would just mix a tiny bit of white in um to that fondier brown but that repetition that working around the robes on each of the sisters models it's going to give me that so here I'm going back in with the rhinox hide into the Shadows now I did the little details I did them white and then washed them with Payne's gray oil I hated it um so here I'm going back in and base coating them using rust gray and I will build up the highlights for that by adding white into it and that will be my finish I'll do a wash in a little bit but it won't be a gray gray blue wash I just really didn't like how it came out it looked messy and I don't want these models to look messy now at this stage I think you probably could leave them they look nice um but for me I wanted to do just one more layer of detail on them I was a little bit disappointed with the Augustus project in that I felt if I just spent maybe 10 more time on the individual Marines I'd have been a hell of a lot happier with them so that's my plan to do any that I add to that Force I will do the same and the little 10 extra I'm going to do with these sisters now is just go in add a few more highlights so on the silver I've taken lead Belcher here and just popping along the edges just bringing a little bit more of that definition to the miniature and also bringing back a little bit of that shine that we've lost because we've covered it with the oil paint which tends to have that matte finish to it always focusing on really being accurate as we can around the head area because that's often going to be the focal point of the miniature when people look at it and I think that's the key really with this is there's there's risk of it looking messy but if we're very very deliberate with every stage that we do we don't need to do millions of stages we just need to execute each of them well deliberately and we'll end up with a nice result foreign I just added a little bit of Peridot Alchemy into the um necro gold and I might use a little bit of oil to wash over as well to add a little bit of dirt to certain areas maybe around the feet the bolt guns say and that's all the extras that we did to them so I'm pretty damn happy with how these two have come out what I'd like is for you to choose which one we're going to do for this combat Patrol um I would be very very happy to do either of these schemes as I say the sisters is a little project I've looked forward to for ages I've wanted an army other than for goodness knows how long I probably won't get one but I can certainly do a combat Patrol so we're going to enjoy it what I would say to bear in mind is that when we paint the tank it is likely we'll be able to do a little bit more if we have that lighter scheme than the metallic scheme but you know it's it's it's it's marginal but that is something to to bear in mind for it so if you want to let me know in the comments which of the schemes you'd prefer I will get the box built up and we can get cracking uh very soon I would like to do the Rhino next I'm going to do a little bit of conversion work on it so it may be one it may be two videos the Rhino but I want to do quite an in-depth full-on tutorial for that I know people have been asking for a tank tutorial for absolutely ages so we will go into that um with the Rhino and then I think probably the repentia because there's a lot of Flesh and stuff so we'll look at different ways we can get make that an efficient way of painting and then basing these two bases again are little placeholders I've got an idea for what I'd like to do with the bases I'm not quite sure if I can pull it off yet so I'm going to have a go at it off camera and if I can I'll make sure I do a video for it as well so as ever thank you ever so much for watching um if you've got any questions about anything I've done pop them down in the comments and I will get back to you as soon as I can thanks ever so much for your support if you can hit that like button hit subscribe if you're not already it really really helps us out and I'll see you next time if you've liked any of the models in this video and you fancy having an army of them yourself but perhaps you don't have the time or wherewithal to get it done consider dropping us an email at commissions Cult of pain.com and maybe Ben can sort you out foreign

Channel: Cult of Paint

Views: 72,262

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Id: Qd7GueIt1z0

Length: 26min 50sec (1610 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 13 2023