Overview of John Weatherby's Pro Panel

what's up everybody welcome back to the channel for today's video i'm going to edit some of my photos using john weatherby's new pro panel for photoshop now if you're not familiar with john weatherby please pause this video and go to where is weatherby on instagram to check out some amazing landscape and night skate photography now full disclosure i ran into john earlier this year in california at ancient bristol cone pine forest when we were shooting the milky way and he was telling me about this pro panel that he was releasing soon and he graciously gave me a free copy to test out and share with you guys the panel has a bunch of great features so i apologize in advance if this overview is kind of long and if there's anything that i missed go to the propanel.com where john explains everything in greater detail so with that out of the way let's jump onto the computer and get right into it alright so here we are in photoshop and the first thing i need to do is open up the pro panel by going to window extensions pro panel now after using this for a few days i really like how clean and easy it is to find the buttons i'm looking for compared to other panels that i've used in the past and as you can see we have four tabs at the top tools filters effects and finish now there's a lot to unpack here and i might not touch on every function this panel has to offer but i will go over most of it with some examples i highly recommend you guys check out thepropanel.com where john has a bunch of videos and they're really in depth on all of these buttons and he explains them nice and thoroughly so definitely check that out but it would take a long time for me to do that in this review video so i'm going to edit a couple of images and explain the buttons as we go along and that way you guys get to see the capabilities of the pro panel so kicking this off i have a nice sunset here from oregon now this shot was underexposed for the sunburst right here and then i have another shot that is overexposed in the sky but the foreground is nicely lit and we're going to create a luminosity mask for this image so i'm going to click on stack hit yes and this is going to bring the images into one document now open stack is to open up a folder of images so let's say you had a star trail set of images you would use openstack find that folder and import your images you could also use openstack for a focus blend so if you had a series of images let's say one took a shot of the foreground right here that's in focus then the middle part of the image was in focus and then the background you would use openstack and open those images into one document in photoshop you could also still use lightroom and bring all your images into one document as well next we have auto align which i actually have to do to these photos i believe let me just zoom in yeah they're slightly off so i'm going to select them both and hit auto align and let me just double check them okay everything looks good and i can zoom out now focus blend is what i was talking about earlier when you have a set of images typically taken on a tripod and you focus on different focal planes and then you combine those images so you have a nice sharp image from front to back then we have our stack button this is what i used earlier to bring one image into another photoshop document then we have camera raw which we're actually going to use on this bottom photo right here so let's select that and i just want to raise my shadows for this photo which is going to make life a little bit easier when i go to blend them together with the luminosity mask it's alright if i introduce some noise here most of this foreground is going to get masked out when i create that luminosity mask next up we have smart object which will convert an image or images into a smart object if i hold down the shift key there's a secondary button right here which will rasterize a layer going on to the last button in this row we have fill width so let me grab the lasso tool and create a circle and click the fill with button to fill it with a color i could also use a drop down menu and fill it with a pattern or use content aware if i want to clone out something there is a shortcut if you press the shift key it'll say content and if you click that it'll go straight to content aware we're just going to cancel that there's a button that turns red whenever you have a selection like this this is the re and deselect button this lets you know that there is an active selection which is awesome and we could just click it to get rid of it or we can bring it back also if you hit the shift button you get a secondary function right here for marching ants this will turn them off or you could turn them back on moving on we have the group button so if i select two images or more and hit group it'll make a folder and group them together after that we have invert which will simply invert the image oops i'm on the bottom layer and we could press it again to undo that let me grab the lasso tool just gonna make another circle so if we have a selection and we press the shift button we could actually invert the selection as well the button after that is the duplicate button which will just duplicate the layer like so and then we have stamp up which will bring all your visible layers into one new layer clip mask is good if you want to apply an adjustment to one particular layer so for example if i did a curves adjustment and i just want to apply to this layer right here i would use the clip mask and if i want to undo that i just press it again and we can delete that blend if john talks about this briefly in one of his videos and i know he plans on doing a more in-depth tutorial about it so i'm just going to leave that up to him just because i don't really see myself using it that much and then we have layer merge which will merge any selected layers and if you hold down the shift button you could also flatten all the layers then moving on to the last row we have our undo redo crop tool levels curves layer mask if you hold down the shift key it'll invert it and then save and our delete button right here and the great thing about this it'll delete the mask first and then the layer all right so now that that's out of the way let's jump back up top to luminosity mask and start having some fun with the pro panel i'm going to select my dark and i want a nice white foreground which is going to conceal and the black is going to reveal the sunset that is beneath this particular layer so i'm actually going to just increase this a little bit with the plus and minus button right here i just want to mask out most of the foreground here i could also use the refine button as well but i'm just going to do this really quickly and hit apply mask and there we have it we recovered the highlights in this image so let me turn off the mask so you can see what i'm talking about so that's the before blown out sky and it's a little hot over here on the right side and then here's the after we basically just masked out a lot of the foreground and only allowed most of the properly exposed highlights from this photo shine through and once you're satisfied with that i like to use the stamp up button and that just merge those visible layers together into one new layer and now i can continue working on this image some more so there's this color mask which is great especially if you have flowers and you want to adjust just the colors of those flowers and nothing else in this case let's mess around with the sun so let me try the red or the yellow let's go with reds first all right so grab a good chunk of that sun and i'm going to go to add an adjustment let's go to hue and saturation and now i could affect the hue and saturation of the sunset and nothing else so that's a really cool way to mask out specific areas of your image and make some fine tune adjustments i'm going to leave it as is but i just want to show you guys that option as well so i'm just going to delete that and we're going to jump over to filters right so in the filter panel we have a bunch of actions that will take your image to the next level we also have this correction section which will help clean up any imperfections in your photo and then down here we have the same set of buttons that you saw on the tools tab it's also on the effects tab as well and that's just because this group of buttons are the most commonly used buttons throughout this whole process so john was smart and incorporated them on these three tabs before we get to the finishing tab okay so let's start off with the orton sharp which is basically the orton effect with the high pass filter and this is going to give us that dreamy look so it's set to 60 pixels we could always make it more or less depending on your preference but we'll leave it what it's set to and then here you just want to adjust your you know highlights mid-tones and shadows if need be hit okay and then this is the high pass which i'm just going to leave set to what it is all right so we have that nice dreamy effect and it's not too much i like that it's not really overpowering so here's the before and then here's the after and if you want the effect to be a little stronger you could always just duplicate this layer and if it's too strong you could always reduce the opacity of the second layer so it's totally up to you you play around with that i'm going to delete one of them and then we'll just continue on to warm glow this is definitely a strong effect at first so we have to lower the opacity i'm going to put it around 25 percent and it fades the image a little bit which i kind of like you could drop down the folder and you could also change the hue a little bit and you could increase or decrease the saturation as well as the lightness and then if you double click on the radial filter we can move this around so you can position it wherever your light source is for me luckily this is right in the middle anyway so i'm good to go so i'm going to hit okay all right next up we have smart sharp which i'm not going to apply any more sharpening to this uh the orton effect which we already did but this doesn't have that high pass filter we have the lux effect which is similar to um i guess the lux effect that's in instagram john was saying so let's uh let's try that out all right so it looks like it just kind of increased the contrast throughout the whole image which looks really nice i'm not going to use it on this particular image though next up is the flare button all right so we have a nice sun flare this is a little bit much so i'm going to lower the opacity and i think i want to change the color of it a little bit so click right in here and make it a little more on orange side i can also change the size of it by grabbing the crop tool and i can even change the shape if i hold the shift key and then i can readjust it however i [Music] want so right like that you know what let me increase the opacity a little bit so it looks pretty nice right there so here's the before there's the after then we have vignette this is just going to add a vignette to your image which this already has a natural vignette to it so i'm not going to do that enhanced foliage and fall foliage i'm going to use those buttons on a different photo for you guys custom vignettes pretty cool just take your lasso tool and uh let's take a section that i want to keep brighter like this area right here [Music] and then hit custom vignette typically 400 pixels is fine uh you could experiment with that but if you go too low like like around 200 pixels you're gonna start getting a hard line so just be aware of that so i'm going to hit ok so here's the before and here's the after you know i kind of like that so i'm just going to leave that continuing on we have high pass which we already did to this image then there's structure this is similar to the structure that you see in lightroom or you could also use in camera raw then we have vivid so vivid's just going to add a nice little pop to your image so here's the before here's the after let me turn that off and do vivid 2. and vivid two pretty much does the same thing it's a nice extra pop to your image but it's going to be a stronger effect and again if it's too strong you just lower the opacity so i'm actually going to delete vivid two and you know i'll keep vivid one and i'm going to stamp up my image here and then in the last row for the filter panel we have black and white contrast which is going to be a high contrast black and white so i'll just click that for you guys that looks really nice let me just get rid of it and go to black and white normal and this is going to allow you to make your own adjustments to your black and white image so you can just move these sliders around and dial it in how you would like and then after that we have black and white matte so this gives it that nice faded black and white look it's definitely very artsy and i could see myself using this a lot in the future all right so for this photo though i'm going to delete that and we're going to jump down to correction so in here we have the remove chromatic aberrations now normally i'll be doing this in lightroom first but if there's any troublesome spots i could definitely come in here and then fix those areas that i can't really fix in lightroom you could also use camera raw as well first and then again if there's some areas that you can't get rid of any of the fringing or the chromatic aberrations then you always have this as a backup sensor dust is great especially if you're printing your images run this like so and then we want to grab the spot healing brush and we could zoom in here you can see i have a bunch of dust spots in the sky so you want to click on the layer below the sensor dust layer and then just start cloning out the dust spots now you're not going to see the sensor dust layer change in real time but once you've finished doing this and you think you got everything then delete the sensor dust layer and then run it one more time and anything you missed just go back and continue removing those dust spots but this is really great to have before you put your prints up for sale or print them yourself all right so i'm going to delete that next up we have content fill again this is just use your lasso tool select something that you want to get rid of and go to content fill and this is going to open up the content aware fill dialog box and you can really make sure that you're filling this accurately and properly i'm not going to do that with this particular image but i just want to show you what will happen when you use this one then we have a noise reduction button which i don't really need on this particular photo darken highlights if your highlights are too bright you could press this button and it's going to dim them down a little bit so here's the before and then here's the after and if the effect is too much i could always lower the opacity then we have auto tone and auto color sometimes these work great and sometimes you don't really need them at all i'll run on this image just to see what happens but i'm pretty pleased with the way this image looks already but let's just see what happens all right so it made it a little more contrasty and you can see it kind of blew out the sky a little bit so again i could either keep it and just lower the opacity if i think the effect is too much or in this case i'm just going to get rid of it because i'm pleased with the image and the way it looks currently then we have auto color and let's see if it adjusts the white balance or anything like that okay so got rid of the color cast a little bit so here's the before and here's the after so it went a little cooler but i think i'm going to keep it on the warmer side so i'm going to get rid of that auto color next in this row we have dark and layer so let me just click that it's going to open up a blank layer with the blend mode set to darken and then you can paint in certain areas i don't need to do that for this particular photo so i'm going to delete it light and layer does the same thing but with the blend mode set to lighten and then color layer it is set to color i'll show you guys an example of this with a different photo shortly then we have hard light and if i hold down the shift key we have a linear light next we have dodge and burn layer and then we have frequency separation this is great if you're doing portrait work and you want to paint over skin but you want to make sure the texture of the skin doesn't get damaged there's some great tutorials on how to use frequency separation and then we have gaussian blur and this button quickly just brings open the gaussian blur dialog box and i'm just going to hit cancel because i don't need that again and then jumping over to effects here we have a bunch of astrophotography actions which i'm going to show you guys with different images shortly below that is color effects we have saturate and desaturate and the cool thing about this is we could quickly uh saturate or desaturate particular colors in the image or we could apply it to all moving down we have selective and this will help me fine-tune certain colors in the image if i want to change them so for example if i want the sunset to change a little bit the color is set to red and i can start playing around with these sliders and make some changes to my sunset [Music] the button to the right is color balance and again i could affect the whole image and change the white balance here then we have gradient map i'm not going to do anything with that for this image photo filter this will open up your photo filters that you could also apply to your image so by default it goes to a warming filter but if you click on the drop down box you have cooling filters and other colors in here as well that you could apply to your image then we have hue and saturation this will open up the hue and saturation dialog box and again we can just move the slider around and make some color adjustments to our overall image and lastly we have a reduced cast option so let me click this button and you're going to get a curves layer adjustment and an eyedropper tool so if you click on certain areas of this image particularly you want to try and find like a 85 gray and this you could use to adjust the color cast of your image and then down here we have user actions so you can import your own actions and use them on your photos as well and you could apply a secondary function to each of these buttons so you could have a total of 10 actions that are in these buttons and then jumping over to finishing and here we could resize the image change it to srgb rgb or pro photo choose our saving destination like the desktop what type of file you want to save it as jpeg png tiff psd or psp you could also set your size and your quality you could apply additional sharpening when you save out and then we have jpeg and png24 right here and you could also import your own watermark so if i click right here it'll open up a folder and i could find the watermark hit open and i could choose where i want to place it on the image so right now i put it right here in the bottom [Music] and i could also adjust the scale and the opacity and it's okay if you don't have these numbers perfect you could fine tune your watermark once it's applied so we'll apply it and then there's the watermark and if it's too low i could always move it around i could adjust the opacity right here on this side and i could use this crop tool and adjust the size [Music] all right so before i get into the astrophotography stuff i almost forgot i want to show you guys a fall image that i shot here in watkins glen we have the leaves that came down we still have some green on these trees right here and then we have the nice green moss so i'm going to use the enhanced foliage button and it's going to open up the hue and saturation so i could always fine-tune adjust the screen if it's a little too strong i can reduce some of the saturation and i can also move the hue to change the color of it so you get the idea here's the before and then here's after it's nice little pop on the greens and next i want to use the fall foliage button and this is going to affect anything that's pretty much green in your photo so it's going to be strong at first but that's quite all right i want to adjust it to be a little bit more on the orange side so right about there and i don't want to affect all the moss so what i'm going to do is hold down the shift key and select my layer mask and that's going to invert it black and it's going to hide everything that we just did next i want to grab my paintbrush tool make sure it's on white and opacity at you know 60 is fine and i'm just going to paint in areas that i want the leaves to be orange and yellow so just like this all right so you saw how quick and easy it is to selectively change specific trees in an image i've used other fall foliage programs in the past which do a great job but it requires more steps to kind of selectively change certain areas of a photo and this makes life a lot easier so i just want to show you guys that really quick now let's jump over to the astrophotography all right so here we are in the astrophotography portion of the pro panel and the first button you see is a stack noise reduce this is for your foreground only it will not separate out the sky and then stack the foreground so you have to do your foreground separate and you'll have to do your sky separately and then blend them together if you want something that does both check out you know sequater or start landscape stacker so i don't need to stack anything in this foreground this is just a tracked milky way sky and i have four shots so i'm going to use the align and stack sky button and first i need to crop out the foreground so hit okay and then enter alright so it created a new layer with the stacked images that cleaned up the milky way quite nicely and i did have to down scale this just you know to speed up the video next i want to reduce the light pollution that's here at the bottom so click on the this button and grab your paintbrush make sure it's set to white and i just have to adjust the brush size and my opacity i want to keep this relatively low let's start around 15 you want to be careful not to hit the core when doing this because it will desaturate some of the color alright so here's the before you see all the orange and here's the after and we neutralize that and if i went a little too much i could dial this opacity down a little bit all right i'm going to stamp this up and the day to night filter i'll show you that with a different example next let's jump to enhanced milky way and here's the before and after so it makes it pop and if i hold down the shift key there's a core contrast button behind that whoops i have to stamp up first all right hold down shift and go to core contrast and you'll have to adjust the unsharp mask i'm just going to leave it as is [Music] again here's the before and here's the after so it makes it pop a little bit more and you can see that it affected a little bit of the highlights right here to really enhance those the next button we have is aurora pop i'll show you that in a different image and then we could reduce the stars so let me stamp up again and go to reduce stars this is great for people that are using a star tracker and they want to see more of the dust clouds in the milky way so here's the before and here's the after so tone down the stars a little bit and let me zoom in i'll show you what sharpstar does hit okay and what's great is john isolates just the stars to sharpen them but it doesn't affect the rest of the image so you're not reintroducing any noise to your milky way and you're only sharpening the stars so here's the before and after and then we have a button here called star glow so i'll hit that and basically you could use this to enhance some of these brighter stars so let's zoom in here and grab my paint brush tool and i have to lower this to around nine pixels make sure it's on white and i'm going to put the opacity around 25 and hit it once and then go to your bracket key and increase the size of the brush a little bit and then hit it again and one more time and we could go to other stars and do this as well [Music] i'm only going to do a couple to give you an idea so it's basically just to make some stars stand out a little bit more and again you could always lower the opacity if the effect is too strong next up we have star trails which i'm going to show you that again with a different photo but behind that if we hold the shift key we have fake star trails so let me stamp up one more time now before i use the fake trails i have to bring out guidelines and pick a star that we're going to rotate around so let's use a star right here and hold the shift key and go to fake trails and let's go with 50. now this is going to take a couple minutes you want to make sure you have a nice open sky as well when doing this effect all right let me get rid of the guides [Music] and it does a pretty good job i still prefer the real thing but you can see it does an artificial star trail effect and that's great if you want to experiment have a little bit of fun definitely try this out i'm going to jump over to an aurora picture next and use the aurora pop and you can see it really enhance the greens in this photo and again if it's too strong just lower the opacity let me zoom in here really quick i want to show you guys under the filters tab we have the color layer and i'm going to grab the eyedropper tool and just select an area that's a little more neutral you can see there's a lot of orange and that's from light pollution in this area and go back here with my paint brush tool and make sure the opacity is relatively low around 10 percent [Music] and i'm just going to start painting out this orange it's very subtle so here's the before here's the after so i'm just toning it down a little bit this is also going to help if you had a red headlamp and maybe you had some stray red light from that headlamp you could get rid of that using this color layer alright so let's jump over to one more image and do this day to night filter so i'll click that right now and this is going to darken the image up and prepare it to be composite with a milky way shot or if we hold down the shift key you'll see an aurora filter let's apply this one to the same photo and now it has a greenish hue to it and we could always lower the opacity a little bit and now we can replace the sky with an aurora shot so let's try that right now i'm going to stamp up and go to edit sky replacement [Music] and i just gotta get rid of some of these clouds so i'm going to change the fade edge [Music] and i might have to paint some of them out now i'm just doing this really quickly but you got the idea we just converted a day image into a night shot pretty easily and it looks pretty cool now obviously compositing isn't for everybody i'm just showing you guys the capabilities of this astrophotography panel and the last thing i want to show you guys is star trails right so jumping to the tools tab i'm going to go to open stack hit browse and i'm already in the folder that i need for my star trails and i'm going to select around 50 of them if i do more than that it might take a while so let's go right here this is good 45. hit ok and it's going to open all the star trail images into one photoshop document all right so all the images have imported into photoshop and i'm going to effects and then i'm going to hit star trails and then combined all the star trail images into one new layer now this is a vortex star trail which i have a tutorial on how to do that and just be aware that depending on the number of photos that you bring into photoshop and the size of those photos is going to dictate how long it takes for it to run that action and combine all these star trails together also i was talking to john about additional buttons that could fade out the tail ends of the star trails so they get that comma effect and he's going to be working on that hopefully in an update in the future so keep you guys out for that but again you could also create an action and include it down here in the user actions if you already have something to do that all right guys so that's going to wrap this video up i know it's long but there's so much to go through with the pro panel the fact that this was designed by a landscape and nightscape photographer really shows with the features and functions that john chose to incorporate with the pro panel all the creative tools we need are just one click away versus the countless steps it would normally take to acquire the same results this is going to be extremely helpful for those that want to save time or just not that photoshop savvy so if you want to add this to your photoshop definitely check out thepropanel.com and i believe john is running a discount right now for the holidays so take advantage of that while you can hopefully this helps you guys out thanks again to john for letting me test out the pro panel take care bye bye

Channel: Milky Way Mike

Views: 8,847

Keywords: Mike Versprill, michael ver sprill, milky way mike, travel, photography tutorials, learn photography, photograph, lightroom, photoshop, vlog, sony, nikon, canon, tutorial, photography education, videography, inspiration, night sky, milky way galaxy, universe, LRTimelapse, time lapse, stars, free tutorials, tips and tricks, information

Id: _slE6hEJNzU

Length: 34min 2sec (2042 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 18 2020