Coach Teaches FOOTWORK Tips For Climbing Overhang

hello everyone welcome back to Hanam Morris bouldering video today I am joined yet again by CN we a couple of months ago we um filmed a footwork video but we focused on uh vertical train this time around we're switching things up and we are going to be hitting the Steep to cover some footwork techniques tactics Theory and application to help you clim steep project so we're going do steep climbing footwork because it's different from vertical footwork and we'll do the basics where to step what to do with your leg foot swaps and we'll do um some of the more details of executing that o well okay so for this section I am going to first climb this blue um and then Zen is going to help me figure out adjustments that I might want to make um based on how I climb it but you're not going to get not going to give anything away before I have my first go so that you can get my my like true authentic yes bad habits oh yeah people always try to climb bettering [Music] Co that was uh I think there's definitely things things that I could have done to make that a little bit more efficient okay um because most of these holds are quite generous I was able to get away with it but I think had they been worse or had that cling at my limit I would have wasted a lot of time and energy yeah okay so I think what we can improve on actually is something that's going to sound really obvious but it's actually really important so the place placement of your foot was not always on the best part of the foothold right so even though these footh holds are really really large we still want to be precise mhm and what we're looking for specifically on overhangs is anything that's in Cut kind of like a chug it's the same concept what what do you want to hold of your hand right and the reason is when we're upside down uh you need to hang or almost pull in with the feet in order to grab onto it and we can't just push if we're just pushing there's nothing kind of like gripping onto it so what you were doing quite a lot was actually placing your foot like here sure and what we can see there's a very clear angle change here and this part is in cut and that part is slopy right if you put it here it's going to be way better yeah and now you can pull in with that foot in this direction and it really stays on and that kind of engages your leg and your core you if at first you don't get it right that's fine just like wiggle it on you kind always get everything right first time I also noticed it when you were on something like uh like these ones maybe not this exact one but something like this so you're kind of pushing off again but we lost all that dig so what I like to say is under overhang your feet have to act like hands yeah uh this is a little like drill you can do when on the ground to just remind yourself of your feet there two things one uh tiptoe oh it's got new shoes on it feels we tip toe and like find your balance yeah do you feel how the weight comes to one point yes yeah okay that's the point that should always be on the foot hole okay that's the placement the other thing can we can do now is to practice pulling with the leg so if you do this so you get to that point and just pull your leg in this an Angry Ball yeah okay and then now we're going to do the same action but without moving the toe yeah we said you're pulling yourself in so now I'm going to get the blue a secondo with all of cen's tips applied I'm going to try and remember what it is that I'm trying to do [Music] [Music] I was definitely more mindful yeah of how I was placing my feet and where on the hold I wanted to place it I think perhaps almost too zoned in on the feet yeah in that particular go yeah so much so that my whole plan for how I was going to climb it and in what SE could kind of went out of the window it's actually super super normal when people start paying attention to your foot like other things get worse yeah this is why with footwork it's quite good to do some practice separate from the climbing yeah most people can only think of one thing at a time mhm um so we we can do now we'll do some drills okay for the footwork so you practice it on the drills so that when you climb normally you don't have to think about it what we're going to do is I'll show you first we're just going to hold it to the jugs and then walk our feet around and each time we're just going to place it with well mhm yeah I really like how you're like taking all of the the overarching pressure of also climbing the route out of the equation to allow yourself to like really focus on yes something specific and would this be something that you'd recommend including in like as part of a warmup for a session if you knew you were going to be projecting like the new steep reset it would be something that you could get incorporate into a warmup or where how would you add those kinds of drills into your yeah doing the warmup in the warm up yeah this is actually quite difficult isn't it um what would be extra good is to take off the other foot so you only have one foot on sure okay and that makes it harder so really what we want to do is be a to like pull on and take that foot off and actually what you need to be able to do is move your hip and that's the test yeah cuz I guess it's one thing to be able to place it but if it slips off as soon as you try and make progress on the climb then it wasn't a good placement exactly next up we've moved to a slightly different area of the gym you think this white one might be quite a good one to try to really hone in on that like Precision on foot holds on overhanging Trin yeah well that one will really require you to step well sure margin for error yes lets you get away with less forgiving yes let say [Music] yes we talked about foot placement before so let's look at that in detail I'm close so this is just you actually like basically you made the same error as the Blue by it's less obvious here CU again this has a slope down and then it flattens out sure right so the feet need to land here foot not there yeah and that's the same here yeah we had just you know before on the big blue jck you're stepping on a tip not the ink cut you made the same mistake here which is why I brought it in yeah you see it's the same problem and then now we have that down slope and then there sure so that's very important big Jacks Small Jacks big FES small HS it's the same principle so once we get the placement right we're pulling in with the foot so that it um stays on that is actually something that you do well you're kind of quite instinctively doing it that's good hey Okay the third thing we want to do is once the foot is on when we move up you need to keep pulling with the foot as it moves up okay cuz it's like you tiptoe but you pull in at the same time and that keeps everything on okay and then the other thing as well is that we need to make sure the weight is on right before you start pushing up okay pulling it a little bit now the weight is in the right place then I go and you see as I move up I tip toe I pull in at the same time yeah and then you do the same you make sure it's on the correct part you pull in with the toe you get the weight on now the weight's on and then you go and you just face so whenever we put a foot up go usually the weight is not on it yet mhm cuz your weight is here so we need to make sure your like your weight your center of gravity or your hips your hips you make sure your hips which is basically like most of your weight mhm goes above the foot hole M so then when you push you go up MH what happened just now was you place the foot right you're pushing down on it you're pulling as well but the weight was here so instead of being here yeah where your weight has to kind of go around like this you want to here see now more ight and I push straight up so should we move on to the next un next yes section yes we'll move on to the next section now okay so I've hopped in to climb for a little bit to see if there's any kind of different perspectives that we can give on common footwork errors or bits and pieces that Cen can pick up on but we're now over by the two uh fairly steep boards at the climbing hanger um first of all we're going to look at of footwork theory on the Beast maker board and then we're going to jump into me practicing some of the footwork drills on the kilter board so the difference between sleep climbing and non sleep climbing footwork is that you have to pull a lot more with the foot so say we were here and if I was just going to push takes you out but when we pull in with the foot like this it just kind of makes it available for us to go up and then when the foot is lower if I'm just pushing I'm working so hard in my car just to like keep my foot on and what that's going to do is create rigidity across my whole body so your foot will stay on but it's stuck but if I consciously pull in with my foot I actually regain movement the other thing that's a huge difference is that when we're on the Steep wall you pretty much just step on the pivot point which is uh that uh you know that drill we did with the tip toes that's that that one point and the reason for that is because of where you want your body to be when you're in the overhang if we were to Edge along here on the board on a steep wall what it does is it brings a super close to the wall and that restricts our movement options so I'm edging in order to keep the edge on I'm very close to the wall and now if I was going to go up for example either I have to pull in really tight to get me up or if I go up you're so close to the wall that the only place you can move is outwards and that's the problem so same footh holds we're not going to change it only difference I'm going to step on my Pivot Point this allows me to be away from the wall and now I can go into the wall everything's better so in that sense sleep climbing footwork is quite simple cuz it's there aren't a lot of decisions you need to make it's more about executing them well which is why practice is very important so now we're going to do some practice on this I got to do some practice yeah's going to do some practice and I'm going to see why is it that when my feet were higher up it felt like they were much more likely to slip off see like say this gray so when I put my foot out like this naturally your foot is in this shape sure cuz your hip is so low so it's quite easy to come off because it's not on the foot hole yeah and it's extra work to do this because of the position I see that so I kind of I call is setting the foot so you place the foot you set the foot and now you use the foot so I think as I'm as I'm doing that one thing that is running through my head is that hit positioning uh and I just wonder if someone's doing that drill if there's a preference for what we should be doing or if we should just be exploring the whole range yes you are exploring all the positions but we do have a quest in the exploration which is to find something specific uhhuh okay and what you're finding is the exact position for you where your feet are stable and you can push off as in straighten your legs in the correct direction and it's not so tense that your body is rigid but it's not so relaxed that you're out of control and it's this is the art of climbing foot on relaxed but feet are on yeah you're pushing yourself deadly look if you're going there when you're here you're pushing yourself that way so that's where you want to go if you're going there I thought that now would be a really good time to segue into um a little bit of a conversation about a partner that we've been working with recently who you may or may not have seen on the channel before and that is Vivo Barefoot I think I'm learning more and more over the last few months that foot strength and foot health is actually a huge part of this great big movement puzzle that climbing is so Vivo befer are a minimalist Footwear brand I made the switch to Vivo in December and I haven't worn any other shoes apart from my climbing shoes since I've been connecting a lot of dots recently about foot strength for your climbing and for your footwork we don't often hear about climbers training their feet but I've been training my feet for nearly the past six months so I'm super excited about that um you'll be seeing a lot more of Vivo on the channel moving forwards we're really excited to be working with them we have some really exciting projects planned with them if you're interested in trying them out for yourself perhaps you're a climber and 24/7 foot gains sound good to you then I'm going to leave our discount code here and in the link in the description so try them out do a bit of research search see what you think let us know and now back into the steep climbing with CM so as as you said before on the kilter these footh holds are a lot less uniform yeah so guess you have to be quite switched on to exactly where on the hold that I'm placing my foot yeah um oh these are a lot harder would we do start off with the same idea on here yeah we'll hold some nice holds and get the feet moving around yeah and I think something else would' be really good to cover on these footh holds in particular is foot swaps so if I was going to go for a foot swap here yeah I think my instinct would probably be a bit of a tablecloth yeah so what you can try to do is just really maintain contact at all times okay and that means that it's usually easier to do the folding method you fold out okay you fold in then to do the dropping the foot method something like this is quite big but still we can like fold out a little bit it just gives us more space and then you come in so you never lose contact sure okay let's try it on the ground up and around up and around practicing on both feet some people find it quite difficult to do it on the ground yeah so it's good to check exactly yeah we open it at the hip um that's rotation inside the hip yes okay okay and then when we're on the wall what you're aiming for is basically not to do anything else anywhere okay right I'm just going to do nothing with the rest of my body like nothing happens I think I got a little feel for the movement on the ground yeah don't feel very precise yeah that look better but I suppose that's where the practice comes in yeah um it'll get better you know when you're kind of looking at your foot and you know what you want it to do but then it just kind of my my foot is a long way from my brain so yeah I think there's some delay in the uh in the pathways yeah yeah what I like to do is I just like make sure I have contact with the wall on the other foot because it guides my foot to the foot hole you almost like touch the wall and then it slides down along the wall okay so you don't you're not like cuz if you're not there you're like so taking some of the drills and lessons that I've just worked through with Cen we're just going to try and pull it all together by climbing a full problem on the kilter board um and put into practice some of those kind of drills see if I can keep them in mind while also trying to ascend oh let's go a fot swap I concentrated so hard on that foot swap thank you okay I think that wraps up a lot of theory and also practical examples M um we've been quite specific today as well I think just looking at like stepping with the toes on steep terrain um there's other techniques that that we could have covered but I think as you said at the start it's really good to do a kind of Deep dive on that one topic as well as in-person coaching which you are absolutely fabulous at uh Cen also you're working on a bit of a special project at the moment right so do you want to tell us a little bit about that and what we can look forward to okay so what I've been working on is a book about technique and what I really wanted to do was explain the principle balls behind it and the system of climbing technique because climbing technique looks really complicated like everything is different everything is special but I think there's a system behind it and I really wanted to put it down in an organized way I'm sure a lot of people at home will be really excited to get their hands on a copy yes hopefully hopefully summer 2024 that's the goal

Channel: Hannah Morris Bouldering

Views: 57,712

Keywords: bouldering, climbing, climbing girl, climber girl, rock climbing, footwork, climbing footwork, bouldering technique, technique, bouldering footwork, foot swaps, overhanging, steep, overhanging bouldering, bouldering skills, intermediate climbers, beginner climbers

Id: B8eguJBQYJU

Length: 20min 53sec (1253 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 28 2024