Oliver Hydra Power Drive Rebuild Part 1

well you've asked for it and it's finally here i am going to rebuild a hydropower two-speed unit this is one for the purple 1850 it seemed to work good and everything and part of me was it's been saying all along oh you know you don't need to go through it it doesn't really leak much and shifts like it should then i remember the advice i give everybody else it's out it's not gonna get any easier to do and once this thing's all painted up i don't want to tear it back apart and scuff up paint and stuff so for the cost of a seal kit and maybe some parts we'll see what all we find i'm not expecting to find much wrong because like i say it worked really good oil looked good in it and everything but i've got the time now to to do it we're gonna we're gonna go through it first thing to do is uh get the oil draining out we'll see if there's anything on drain plug fluid looks good a couple little fines on the drain plug so probably a good idea to just take her apart and reseal it make sure everything's in good shape and put her back together so it doesn't mark its territory there's a few different ways to come at these depending on what all you need to do to it if you're doing a complete because you just tear it down we'll go through that but if you want to just change the rear seal or the regular rear sprocket you can do that if you wanted to pull the side cover off to replace the pump or something but by the time you're to that point you might as well just tear the rest of it down so i am going to start by removing the cooler on the top the lines i'll get the bell housing off bell housing's pretty simple um oh i might pull this yolk out just because it makes getting those two bolts easier take the bolts off and take the belt housing off and i might be able to get to them before i take this loop line off i want to explain a little bit about that that is that's what provides oil pressure into the direct drive clutch pack so if you want to do some testing you can put a t and oh probably this spot's as good as any and then you can have a gauge going up to the line or in the t and then the line hooked into the other end of the t so then you can try it fire up your tractor and spin it up see what kind of pressure it's putting in out when shouldn't be uh basically nothing uh when you're in an underdrive and then when you put it in direct i'll have to look i think it's 160 to 180 psi uh your gauge should go up if you're getting up there you're doing good if it's reading low the next thing you want to do is disconnect this line and then just put your gauge right into this port here the line came out of that eliminates all this stuff for leakage and then fire it up again and put it in direct and it won't engage direct because the line ain't there to do it but it will show pressure and if your pressure goes up to what it should be then you know you've got excessive leakage inside of here that the pump just can't keep up with and if your pressure stays low then either your pump is worn or you need to shim your spool that's inside of this which we'll go over when i take this cover apart and put it back together so just a place to test do some testing there do some comparison testing so you can kind of narrow down what's going on so now i'm going to get this line off and then i will take this the lever off which is just a matter of on these pulling the cotter pin and the washer and sliding the handle off the end then it's mattered just the bolts around the perimeter and getting the gasket to come loose all the bolts are out that's disconnected uh there are a doubt there's a dowel pin down here and a dial down pin down there so that will make it come off a little tougher at first and for those that are wondering if you can pull this cover off while it's still in the tractor i just don't see how it could happen i don't know of it happening i wouldn't want to try it because then you tear up the gasket and then you have committed to pulling the engine so usually you can catch the edge and go at it with a chisel get it broke free and once you got room to get in there with a screwdriver or some suitable prying device just work it away around see what's in there okay i'm not quite off that top dowel pin there you go the guts this was a part that used to stick out through the cut side cover there and the hose hooked to that so far things are looking good i wasn't sure if this one had been gone through i figured for the cost of a seal kit just go through it and make sure it's all right so next thing let's see about let's see about getting this nut off the back here first thing is uh on this on hydropowers the nut is staked so you got to get that or they hit it down into that notch pried back up um usually you can get a chisel under there you can pry it back up of course that messes the threads underneath i've taken a drill and drilled that metal away or grinded away but fortunately the seal kit comes with a new nut so don't worry about saving the nut uh worry about saving the shaft because you can't get those anymore i took a drill bit and drilled out against to where the uh that had been staked and then i've got the handy dandy 149 or sae number nine spanner wrench i was thinking i had um this is the one for the over and unders um this ain't the official oliver one i think it's maple springs farm put a link down in there but they make one for the over and under and another one for the larger hydropower but it's got a nice half inch square hole so you can put your breaker bar ratchet impact whatever you want on it although these tabs aren't you know terribly thick so they don't take a whole lot of pounding from an impact but with this style let's take a bar of some kind or a long punch like i've got use that for your pry bar and see i'm going to take a pair of channel locks and put on there probably a big pipe wrench would probably work good especially if you're replacing the sprocket you don't have to worry about it got to break free there that just slides right out and if you were to want to just change the seal just get some something in there to grab the seal and pop it out drive a new one in there is an o-ring in there well we got to lower the counter shaft down before we can pull the front shaft out of the drum so uh let's get that done we just got this bolt right there holds a little at that bolt there it holds a wedge that keeps the shaft in place keeps it from turning we'll take that out i want to be careful not to grab this fitting and wreck that usually you get on the shaft and you can grab that flat spot where that stop was oops wiggle it out enough there okay we've got that counter shaft lowered down so now we can get the upper shaft out i took the bell housing off which is just the bolts around you'll notice the bell housing has a hole in the bottom but this cover does not so there's always that bottom hole is always missing that's normal this is the older style there's a gasket in here there was a couple variations on this later ones didn't even have this plate here i can spin this off this has the uh oh this basically just holds the sleeve for the throw out bearing why don't i zip that off real quick as you can see this cover here just holds that sleeve later ones they consolidated that all and um and the bearing head retainer from the backside keeps it all together there's your output shafts or input shaft seal so you're gonna some of you're gonna come across variations that are a little bit different than this some of these covers instead of having a gasket had an o-ring fewer parts just refinement of the design with the overall the design of the seams but i'm gonna have to knock this to break the seal with the of the gasket and the gasket wasn't holding too hard once it popped free it come right out there's your input shaft and there this piece has a seal in it you say later designs this was kind of all one piece and uh now this i have to guess i have to take snap ring off the bearing to bring that plate up but fewer gaskets so you're going to have leftover gaskets depending on what age your hydropower is from the seal kit because it's got everything for all the different versions in one kit but some of them the seal just uh this shaft actually comes out the backside more like an over and under there's a plate that retains it the bearing on the back side you pull that and uh and then tap the shaft and bearing out of the housing then the seal will be down in there and you can pull the seal and replace that but that's not the style the majority of them are probably this style but there are some variations i just want to warn you next step there's a snap ring that holds this whole drum assembly on so you take the shaft out the back there's the opening takes these uh flat-faced uh snap ring pliers that get in there and get it roll it around on this side so the camera's on that side and it's in a way another thing the kit comes with is all new snap rings this one feels a little stretched figures light dies and snap ring comes off so snap ring off shaft next step now i've got the snap ring off the front there uh got the gasket seal broke here there you go separated so now i just gotta pull that out kind of helps to hold the drum inside and then the whole shaft slides out of everything slowly but surely and you have your tail shaft assembly right there here is your clutch drum that can come out and the collector ring this shaft goes on there and i want to notice that the uh i'm trying this gear goes on there you want to notice that the uh the lip or the side the longer side is facing towards the rear hopefully that's right and now that that stuff's out of the way you can reach in from the front reach in grab the counter shape and take that out so all your sub assemblies are out and apart it's interesting a shim i don't recall ever seeing one with a shim behind the thrust washer around and drain the rest of the oil peel this gasket off the front here there's an o-ring in the housing down here that seals the front of the counter shaft that'll have to come out all the gasket needs cleaned up thrust washer now a little bit of grinding stuff in the bottom something is going on so here's your clutch direct drive clutch pack drum you need to push these tabs back later ones had a drum with a snap ring on them like in your 1555's instead of this boulder together this just slips off from here there's some ceiling rings right here on the drum they'll come in the kit there's this piece the collector ring notice it has the word front cast right into it and also you'll want to check on the inside here you'll see where the ceiling rings ran and that should be shined up but if they're worn down in then this one looks like it's going to be good then you're not going to get good sealing uh i don't think this part is available anymore a guy could take this to a machine shop have them bored out a little bit and re-sleeve it back to the original size believe that spec should be in the in the service manual and there is a hole that's where the pressurized oil comes in between the two rings it goes between these ceiling rings and it finds this hole here which is drilled into there which pushes a piston up and squeezes all those clutch discs together until they're tight enough that the power has to go through and over here we have this is the counter shaft this is the gear that drives the pump that gear slides off there's bearings inside the shaft uh the snap rings that hold them in and then there's this old thrust bearing thing in here and here is where your sprag clutch goes this is under drive here it's all these wedges in here captured in a cage and it's a one-way clutch so this gear can turn on this shaft this way but when i try to turn it the other way all those little wedges lean just ever so slightly and that's enough to take up the space and then they uh it transmits power that's how that works when you're in direct drive the output uh side of this the pump side speeds up and so it ends up turning faster than this gear and so it free wheels in it that's why you gotta have that free wheels in it um if you take it out of direct eventually the speed of this catcher this slows down to the speed of this and then you're an underdrive and this gear is turning this way so it turns the shaft but if your tractor speeds up it can still turn faster and that's why freewheel's going downhill so i can slide this right out of here i'll make sure there's no rough nest to this shaft it's nice and smooth no ledges or anything like that here's that thrust washer that just like the one on the other side and then this is the actual sprag clutch right here it's amazing to me that all those little wedges without tearing everything up just leaning a little bit can transfer the power between two smooth metal surfaces but they do tail shaft assembly uh before i can pull the shaft out there's an o-ring down in there you can just see it gotta pick that out so if you're just replacing the rear seal don't forget to do this o-ring as well because it could be leaking through the splines instead of through the seal and there's that and look the spring was off the seal now here's another change this is out of an 1850 so it's new enough to have the updated shaft uh early ones there was no step it was pretty much splined from one end to the other and you had to put all this stuff together there were no uh you got this spacer and a shim stack here don't want to lose those just set these over here right now but when they updated it they put this ledge in here so you got to change gears and stuff because of the size of the splines but prior to that and so if you're doing like basically an 1800 1900 hydropower unless uh hopefully it's been updated and it's got this style but there's still some floating out there my 1800c has still got the original style shaft you have to put it together and preload we'll show some of that and when we get to the assembly but you have to have everything on here and it pushes against the snap ring and you set the bearing load with the nut on the back there and then stake that in place well when they started getting loose things could wobble and dance around and shake cause vibrations or the snap ring could pop off the end of the shaft here because of the pressure against it so they came up with this improved shaft where the bearing actually rests against a solid surface and uh then you just got that spacer and the shims the other bearing on like i said we'll go over that in uh reassembly on setting the bearing load what else we got oh we got to do this so i'll do that but i'll knock these tabs back so you can get all these bolts loose so i'll do that are these ceiling rings actually well it's nice and convenient maybe come on well that clutch just looks good looks good i'll put them against something flat to make sure they're flat but they're sure looking it yeah that one seems flat i look good i got the side cover on the vise these two bolts here three quarter inch head half inch bolts hold the pump on zip them out and get the pump off this is the hole that that collector ring came through and the hose connected to and uh it's a good idea this overring uh definitely replace it but um it'll be in the kit they don't label the o-rings in the kit so you kinda gotta basically gotta compare what you took out so kinda keep track of them so you can compare what o-ring you took out to what's in the kit you can also measure them the measurements are in the parts book if you've got that those are online on adcopartsbooks.com let's see uh let's take the pressure control spool out that's this one this is spring loaded so uh i don't think there should be too much pressure against it but just yeah just a little bit and there could be shims there this one doesn't have them or if there are they're in on the other end of the spring i use my o-ring pick to get that out there's a spring and then i need a bolt to get the spool out apparently no shims uh that's another thing that comes with the seal kit is shims so if you need some to adjust the pressure there's a few in there this lower plug is for the oh shoot the lube pressure circuit got that broke loose scan another spring there so be careful prepared for some pressure this one the poppet usually comes right out with it and then i got a bolt 5 16 regular old bolt just long enough to reach in there yay long and it will thread into the spool for the high pressure control valve and let you slide that out and it's nice that they thread that because every now and then a little fleck of metal or something will get on this surface here and keep it from moving and that can cause low pressure and of course getting that thing out of there would be tough but if it's uh you can just thread a bolt into at least then you can grab onto it so now we got a normally these are us like a hex socket bolt so this is definitely been our bolt a set screw and uh their pipe thread and they're usually tough to get out and i usually have to heat them but this one's been replaced before so i'm gonna guess it's gonna come out without too much trouble but that holds a spring and detent ball for the shift spool oh yeah nothing to it and the problem with putting heat to it is that spring under there usually can lose its uh tension you don't want it to lose too much but sometimes you got to do what you got to do to get things apart without destroying them whatever oliver used to seal pipe threads it was tough stuff so there's a little pipe plug i'm guessing that's eight inch pipe thread you can see the spring down in there so as i pull the spool out it should pop up i might have to probably smart thing would be to flip this over and catch it in my hand not lose it so i'll do that real quick there's a shift spool all that seals that is this o-ring right here in this groove so if it's leaking out the shift spool it has to come out that far which means it has to hit the bell housing so you're just not going to do it without pulling the engine honestly and there's the spring and the detent ball definitely don't want to lose those that's everything out of the side cover other than just plugs which i'm going to leave those in can flush it out without having to take every single plug so take the four bolts out to disassemble the pump and visually inspect it and get it cleaned up usually these pumps are pretty good they got a screen on the bottom not too often i've had to replace one they say they seem to hold up pretty good even when they go bad the rest of the unit goes bad and there's chunks floating around but never say never so always check them out spun the nuts off and then give a little tap on the gear that's enough to create a little space in there where i can pry this cover off a little prying with the screwdrivers but there's the pump nothing i can catch a fingernail on there faces in the teeth of the gear look nice and smooth looking like the other side's pretty much the same i got her on her side but one other pipe plug i like to take out is or get loosened up is this one here it's just to the right of the two bolts that mount the pump and that's where i will put my test uh gauge in and it's all assembled and i test it for pressure and everything that essentially gets me that drilling goes right over to the pump so you'll get two different readings depending on whether it's high or range or low range hydropower drive or direct drive a little bit easier to get it out now in case i have to put heat or two something to it and then have the whole unit together and then take that try to take that plug out and find out it's in there really hard so that is out it is ready to go in the tank and get some washing done as are all the other parts let me go double check the direct drive piston i need to get that apart and for that you really need a press so let's take her over there this piston for the direct drive clutch pack has a ceiling ring on it and so we need to get it out to switch that there's this heavy spring that pushes the piston back when you take it out of direct drive and pushes oil back through so it releases quickly and doesn't drag so this spring i'm sorry the snap ring in here has got spring pressure against it so you can't just go in there and plus it's also captured by being recessed down in here you can't just go in and snap it off or snap it out let's see make sure the opening is facing me so i made this uh u-shaped tool with a nice long handle keep my fingers out of things and then hold that center it up and use it to hold the spring down oh come on my stamp ring pliers are getting worn and having this camera in a way doesn't help maybe if i flip them over there there we go then i can slowly let the pressure back off lift it up take my tool out there's the hole quick shot of air and boom she's out you got this big ring on the outside and then there's a ceiling ring on the inside there right in there that's one of them hook types this big outer ceiling rings office pretty easy to get off did that by hand this one usually ruins them to especially if you got a big fat pick like i oh i did it i don't know how well that showed up but i was able to squeeze it down let me uh just get it out of there and then i can show you there you can kind of see them when you squeeze them in the groove a little hook and they hook together i think we are disassembled lots of bits and pieces got the case kind of draining there i think it's time for some cleaning and that don't make for very good youtube unless this was the cleaning channel so we'll call this one good and hopefully in another week i'll have the putting it back together video i've got a couple of seal kits coming i found a couple on ebay and got a good deal on those so i figure i might as well buy both i'll use the other one eventually so just a matter of time uh we'll wash everything up and then next week i can get her back together so once again thanks for watching

Channel: That Oliver Guy - Chris Losey

Views: 6,316

Rating: 4.9820223 out of 5

Keywords: oliver, tractor, farm, white, equipment, power shift, hydra power, 2 speed, repair, assembly, sprag clutch, 1850, transmission, shift on the go

Id: BugMlhIjcyU

Length: 36min 23sec (2183 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 14 2021