Oliver Tractor Power Steering Box Rebuild

okay we are going to pull the steering box out you see it's oily down under there the seal on the bottom is leaking so uh kind of give you a how-to on doing that first thing we're going to do is we'll get the steering lines off and then we gotta get this cap off okay we've got the lines loosened up or disconnected and bolt cover cover bolts off and tap that with a hammer just a little bit to kind of break the seal on the o-ring to get it to turn and then uh go ahead alan you kind of twist and pull up at the same time you turn it to where you get your fingers under the ears then maybe and maybe we'll have to get some kind of little pry bar under there could be suction holding it in where's that screwdriver does it have a gasket on it nope it's sealed by an o-ring i have to go back and forth between sides right so oh is it is it yep there we go all the seals at is this o-ring right here for this top cover now we need to pull this you might be able to do that with your screwdriver it might take two of them one from each side so this cap has got a little lip on it to grab it and take a couple screwdrivers and pry up and boom that's got an o-ring on it as well now inside here you're going to see a bowl and you're going to see a snap ring and you might think i got to take this stamp ring out but you don't that's actually to help remove it so i find this works best with an impact so we will grab that okay so we are gonna hit this with impact we leave that snap ring in and go ahead and hit her allen [Music] as you can see that bolt the washer is welded to it and it hits that snap ring and it draws the gear up off the shaft for you that's why you don't want to remove the snap ring so now we just need to uh that's off so yeah that's loose we don't need that anymore this is also the part where you're gonna want a good-sized uh pan of some kind because the oil that's in the steering box is gonna come out the bottom you'll also wanna notice there's a dot right there and a dot right here and there will be a dot on the rack and either one of those dots will work but you want to get one of those dots lined up with the dots there to get the timing right or you'll still steer farther one way than the other i don't know if you can grab that allen and get that out sometimes i have to use a pair of pliers on to bite onto it and it's kind of slippery and smooth and all that good stuff yeah where's them channel locks you probably put them away okay we put this glove around here and then gripped it with a pair of channel locks to get a good bite and that was well it took to get this gear to finish coming off the shaft as you can see that bolt's kind of captured in there it's on tapered splines here and then there is a quad ring down on the bottom of the box here that's what's letting the oil seep out on this one if it's coming out the bottom it's got to come through that quadrangle or the other option is if this the cap that goes in the top of the this here that seals the oil from going down around the shaft so one of those two that lets the oil out if it's coming out the bottom but it's usually that quadrant because it turns against this gear here and it just you know dirt and stuff it over the years rubber gets hard it gets ground down and it stops sealing i turned the piston just a little bit so we could see the dot a little better but there's the dot that you need to line up with the dot or the gear on that dot on that gear needs to line up with that dot that dot and there's one on each side because they're 180 degrees off so either one works but if you get off by one tooth you'll steer farther one direction than the other i've had to take one or two apart over the years because someone didn't line up the dots and steering went to couldn't figure out why their steering was farther one way than the other okay now to uh this stud just floats in this drag link so all you got to do is just lift that will pull up out of that like that and there's your steering box so let's uh get that apart okay we're going to disassemble this there's a snap ring that holds this cap here in that's what this hole is for you take this little and it can be a nail i guess you grind a point off from it but just got to be something that fits in the hole and flat and give it a little tap and it pushes the stamp ring down and there you go there's the stamp ring pull that thingy back out now we need to get this cap out i don't know if you can turn that and it's just o-rings in there but just turning it kind of breaks the seal that the o-rings get might work if you uh maybe not we could always blow air in one end the oil comes out the other maybe just tap you know what let's try ah you can do that i think i saw it turn it did that should have broke the all right now let's hang the end of that over okay so we got got the oil out of this end by holding it over the bucket and turn that into now he's just kind of gently tapping on the rack to get this cap to come out the end there it's coming there it goes there's the cap oh there's some more oil there's the other end of the careful that that'll fall out okay the piston will fall out if you turn it now you can drain it we want to remember that end was the end facing out what these little pins are right here this is the hole on the opposite side there's a little check ball in there on each end and if this piston seals get bad and are letting oil buy out into this chamber that could make it get over pressurized and blow the seals and so what it does is this has a spring and a check ball on it and so if the pressure gets high enough when you're going one way well it can only go to the side it's returning you've got steering pressure say if your steering pressure is coming to this side it's going to go through here keep that ball seated on this side but if it's leaking through past this ring it can unseat this ball and return with the other return oil as the rack moves that way so that's just there to keep the uh the steering box from getting uh over pressurized and uh making the seals fail so now we just got to get these uh seals picked off and wash up the box and we can put her back together okay we're gonna get the new o-rings and uh teflon seals on there's the o-ring i've already missed paste place my pick it was just there it is my o-ring pick let's go around like that now these can be a little tougher sometimes it helps to soak them in warm water makes them a little more pliable it kind of depends on the time of the year they in the winter time they're stiffer just because it's colder out but that one didn't go bad at all and we just put another o-ring here get in there i like to go around a couple times like that because if there's any twist in the o-ring it kind of lets it work its way out and then just work our way around carefully don't need to twist it there we go and it's in so now we need to we'll set this up in the vice maybe there we go there's a beveled edge chamfered edge right around here that helps guide those seals in and squish them down i'll make sure that's good and clean so they don't drag across it so put a film a grease on these seals so they want to slide in easier and i like to do the same here [Applause] i do recall i don't know if it really matters but this drill hole was on the outside in just like that i almost stuck my hand in there i think could have dropped fast and that would have hurt like that okay all right now it's ready to engage you can see the seal is just down there we got it just up here so we just need to give her the old bumpy bump okay so we just there something you want to watch for is down in the hole here if you see uh blue from the teflon seal you know you cut it i'm just got the red from my grease here there's no little bits of teflon so it looks like it went in nice and smooth so now we just got to put the cap on the end here now okay so we'll put the o-ring in here first so that it doesn't get sliced going past the snappering groove and then this has got a chamfer on it to help ease it into the snap or the o-ring that's going there looks like it's in all the way now we just need to put the snap ring in and when you do it you want to have the opening a little this past hole that you earlier uh stuck the rod in to push the stamp ring out if you happen to have the opening of the groove right with that hole you're not gonna get anywhere with pushing that out so somewhere just a little past works good there that part is rebuilt i'm going to put a little air to it just to make sure i've got a rubber tipped air hose here to try to we'll wait i got a rubber tipped nozzle so it seals up halfway decent here you don't want to be in the line with anything that might fly out just in case you didn't get it right but come on push it's already down yeah it's already down but i'm just looking for air i'm not hearing any i'm just gonna put some penetrating oil around this just to give something to give bubbles if it's leaking you seen anything nope i see the original bubbles going away but no new ones forming cool beans now looks like she sealed up good and then we could try the other direction you don't want to be uh this is going to push the rack over that way so i want to just do a little air at first because i don't want it to shoot over there real fast seems to be holding the air you were hearing with my air chuck here see if i can get it better yeah she seems to be holding good decompress so fast it even made a little cloud well i think that's ready to go back in the tractor so that'll be the next step i've got a new quad ring to put in the bottom there and i'll flip the box over here's the agco part number for it here's the old one they call it a quad ring it's a rubber o-ring like normal o-rings other than it has four sides to it and it seals better got the steering box flipped over this can be done in the tractor i've done it before pulling this gear out and uh if that's the only thing that's leaking is it's leaking around the bottom takes a little bit because the shaft is still this shaft will still be coming up through the middle so takes a little finesse and reaching down in there but but it can be done and you don't have to disconnect all the steering lines and pull this out if all you want to do is replace this bottom quad ring which that's usually where the leak is here just that simple i'll put some grease on it so everything slides together a little smoother and i can set this baby back in the tractor it's a fairly tight fit but it will fit in there without pulling the engine on a 1650 anyways there are some tractors things get close enough um seems like 1850 diesel with perkins comes to mind but excuse me you have to remove the pulley and balancer to get enough room to get the ear of the steering box up past there seems like uh two 135s and two 155s seems like i remember having to pull the front pulley on those in order to get the box off definitely gotta get the radiator off to get up get it up out of there if you're gonna do that that's why i said a moment ago that if you want to change the s that quad ring down on the bottom sometimes it's easier just to leave it in there and case like that where you have to pull the front pulley or something it's a lot easier to leave it in there so it just depends on what all you want to do to your box got the pin in the hole maybe maybe not there it goes all right now we just need to that rack's a little uh lopsided or turned i need to get that straightened out so that i can see the mark on it make sure things get timed right as we can see there's the dot so let's see i got my dot there [Music] uh looks like i got my dots lined up good now i just need to get it to line up enough to drop through the bottom of the case it could be the splines on the steer or the wheels front wheels might turn need to turn just a little bit to line up the splines on the inside of that hub or gear [Music] she should go down further than that just have to get a pry bar and move the steer with the steer the wheels by hand guess i'll grab the old rubber mallet give her a tongue you know you came out of there there we go get a wrench and tighten that bolt up [Music] [Music] [Applause] let's see when i hold her up like that i can see my sprockets uh my gear and rack are aligned now the splines inside this gear and on the shaft are a tapered spline so they lock together so you want to tighten that down good so you don't get any slop in there this one was actually loose when we took it apart so this should help tighten up the steering a little more [Music] uh three yogas okay next up is that cap seals this up make sure this lip part is on top that you use to pry it out get in it i greased it up of course it's a got it's basically trying to compress air in there too if it's sealed up good i guess i could hit it with a rubber mallet instead of the hand hammer as someone put in the comments but it's in there and before we put the final cap on we want to put some oil in there double checking my dots are lined up so i'll get some oil i use the same hydraulic oil that i use in the hydraulic unit because well that's what's going to be in there if the seals on the rack should leak they're going to leak hydraulic oil or if the pressure builds up and the little relief valves that are building each end of the rack open up it's going to go into the hydraulic system so you want to use the same stuff you're using in your hydraulics and if hydraulic oil comes pouring out the bottom you know you did something wrong left out the quad ring sheared the quadrangle there i leave a little air space for the lid i probably didn't leave enough air space i guess we'll find out in a moment got a new o-ring on the lid here got it greased up so it slides in a little better and once again it's going to try to compress air i don't want to hit her too hard but i'm not even down to the o-ring yet rubber mallet this cap is cast iron so it can break now we're down to the o-ring and i can see it's trying to bubble oil out i show left a little more air space in there now i guess we'll draw it on the rest of the way with the bolts [Music] so all right i grew up with very little resistance probably just uh fighting compressing the oil and air because everything's sealed up good some come out around the back here amp i had just a hair too much in there but if the pressure gets high enough it'll open those internal relief valves and put it out the end so we should be good a little bit there a little bit there before the ordering got seated don't see any bits of o-ring that's always good too oops wrong ratchet now i'll just have to hook up and the steering lines and it should be all done pretty straightforward repair appreciate everybody watching as always and we'll see you in the next one working on it staged this whole video was staged

Channel: That Oliver Guy - Chris Losey

Views: 5,484

Rating: 4.9619045 out of 5

Keywords: oliver, tractor, farm, white, equipment

Id: GeDynPl_hMs

Length: 32min 2sec (1922 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 16 2020