MSU - Bozeman Lathe Safety Video

okay so the lay it's most powerful machine in the shop probably the more dangerous some of the machines there's nothing going to stop this machine if you get caught in it so it's really important to have I wear a lab coat roll my sleeves up take my watch off no jewelry no long hair nothing loose because if it gets caught here it's about seven horsepower of skier reduction and nothing is going to stop that so with that kind of power so you want to be really careful on the lathe we have four different types of lathes they all do the same thing but have different settings setups on the most of them have a CP which I use all the time turning it to the right powers the machine up pressing it in stops it all that's going to do is stop the machine it's not going to stop the truck from rotating when it's running I'll demonstrate that you can see it closest to a stop I turn the left push the lever down now it's off turn it back on I'm going to turn the Chuck on again it's been too long that will stop the motor and mr. Chuck your best bet for stopping it quickly then you have to reset it it doesn't depress this when you did that let's just stops it so we've got four of them of the safety Grey Cup okay so when you're setting up to do some turning lathe work I can always turn the safety off that way if I turn the spindle on it doesn't mean we've got safety chucks so keys so the spring pops it out that pops up you can it's hard to leave it in there it's possible you never want to leave the key in the Chuck I'm just gonna put a piece in and demonstrate that you don't want to hang the part out more than three times its diameter is safe ten times is way too much so if it's a one-inch piece you can't hang it out ten inches three inches would be appropriate and probably you would get the least deflection now when I tighten this I really tighten it some Chuck's have more than one wrench spot and you can tighten in several places but I i brace myself and tighten it really good the tool holders of course these can rotate on the compound and the cross slide is just one direction and X I want to make sure that everything is tight so if this were just finger tight and you came in to cut it's gonna spin it and move it so I go to try and do two things line this up on Center and then make a cut so I've got the tool angle the way I want tight and I do check the compound make sure that's tight so it doesn't rotate alright so you've got a choice of live centers drill shots keep the tools with each machine respectively they're kind of unique to each bore and spindle the tailstock I can just use this this is a tapered fit a Morse taper Mor SE and it's just a friction fit it's under a two degree angle that makes it lock unlike the mills which have a steeper angle r8 taper does not lock it requires the drawbar to remove that I just turn the handwheel back and there's a bolt in the center and it pushes it off so bring it forward a little bit clean it off real good I usually check the bore wipe it out with a rag and then my clean hands and just snap again I'm only putting it in right now to show you that it's one way to set the height of the tool long as you can get to it and see it you can see that the tool is about level might be a little high loosen that you can drop this down a little bit see that can come in and out tighten that up real good so nothing's gonna spin a second way to check center line is if you have a pocket scale a steel scale you can bring this in touch it lightly and look at it for vertical and if it's centered it's going to be vertical if it were high it's gonna tip it forward this is a quick way to check Center and then if it were low it would tip back this way that's just another trick to check center make sure it's tight tailstock is locked with this lever and it can't move here and then if we're turning between centers which you've done in your labs you can lock that when you have pressure on the bearing when you're done and clean up I would like the lace to be wiped down and oil and you can bring the carriage all the way back take this slightly back it is possible and slide it off the end of the lay of tubes don't just push it back alright so your speeds and feeds your rpms and put some charts in shop all around speeds and feeds these have to do with the different materials from aluminum softs to titanium steel hardened you can look at your surface feet-per-minute that's recommended for carbide to language is mostly what we have you're going to pick a diameter say one inch aluminum and we could have a feed rate on the lathe or no eight thousandths of an inch feed and then you look over at the machine itself and here's the thousand speed so you can look at that chart and calculate your RPM don't just run it as as fast as it'll go or as quickly as it can go just look at that chart there's some information right there simple formulas for rpm inches per minute for your feed rate or how fast you should feed per revolution just basically three simple formulas and narrow down your speeds and feeds so when I'm going to feed automatically I just look at these numbers Elsie s4w there's your 4c it's a little difficult you can see I'm spinning the Chuck and I'm watching the leadscrew turn here so I know it's engaged w all right safety god and there's your teeny try this away from the truck I like that attach this what's on the chart coming to our second show examples of cuts this is aluminum and I'm gonna give you an example of a light cut 30 thousandths of an inch depth of cut is a maxim I come up in touch that's about a thousand and I can use the digital readout or I can use the numbers on the dial here so 35 cents I'm gonna feed it by hand finish of the feed rate that I'm using I increase the fee and you can see the quality the quality is reduced so feed rate here I was doing that by hand and that was probably about eight thousand feet per per revolution 8,000th feed forward and Z per revolution around so I'm going to take another cut ten twenty thirty thousand step the cut I'm going to turn it on nice automatic feed now and give you an idea and here's automatic feet at 8,000 it's a nice even ship coming off really careful with your hand all right so finished was excellent 8000 speed and one of the more important things about the lathe is as tempting as it is to just pull these away and throw them away never grab these what's more likely to happen is it's going to round the end of the chuck and strip it through your fingers cut your hand badly so we usually have brushes chip brushes out on the bandsaw out on the machine and you'll just sweep those away between every tub alright so I'm going to show you a little heavier cut I'll show you to have you cut the machine is probably capable you know much heavier especially this is about a 100,000 stuff to cut now you can hear it log vibration I can still reduce the feed rate and get a big ship push harder so you can see that the machine is capable of a much heavier cut and much higher feed rate but your quality is going to be low you can hear it taxing the motor and the quality and the size is not repeatable that way so you're gonna probably take about 30,000 steps to cut maps which has to do with the nose radius of the tool here and that would be important to not cut too deep or too fast and steal we would reduce everything down and go by these numbers on the chart Dartmouth steel surface feet per minute 150 I'd started the low range and then work your way up if you're trying to get better finish okay then we'll move over to the mill

Channel: MSU MachineShop

Views: 8,101

Rating: 4.8367348 out of 5

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Id: 9NTH6xp-Pl4

Length: 13min 38sec (818 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 27 2015