Mondeo Mk4 Project Gets a New Clutch! (Part #1)

[Music] foreign right hello everyone welcome back to the channel welcome back to another video you join me for the first installment of project clutch on this map for monday and today i'm going to get myself started get the car jacked up and start taking some things apart i read a few bits and pieces and just sort of clued myself up everything seems to be fairly simple from what i've seen so we're basically just going to get started and get cracking i'm going to tackle this the way that i tackle every other clutch job that i've ever done and that is just to take things start taking things apart and just kind of go with the flow basically i know that on these cars the subframe the front subframe has to come off because that impedes the gearbox from coming down i don't know yet how i'm gonna support the engine because usually i use my cross brace but on this car um it doesn't seem that i'm going to be able to use that because it's not really a place to put it we'll cross that bridge when we come to it a few people did say in my last video to check to make sure that the master cylinder wasn't to blame for the loss of the clutch pedal i have checked just to make sure and it is definitely the slave zone there and i'll show you that in a second well that's the first thing i'll do i has been to a garage with the previous owner who i bought off and they confirmed that it was a slave cylinder right i think that's enough offline let's get started all right so before we get started taking things apart i'll just explain to you how i have confirmed that the slave cylinder is the problem and it's not something else underlying you don't want to go through all the work of taking all this apart taking the gearbox out because it is a big job and then find out that there's something smaller that you could have done that would have fixed it and you didn't have to even bother with the clutch like i said this has been a garage previously and the guy who i bought it off told me that they said that he needs a clutch but when you say he needs a clutch basically the gearbox had to come out because the slave cylinder's gone the clutch going doesn't typically cause an issue where the pedal goes to the floor it's usually a hydraulic issue so your master cylinder slave cylinder or somewhere in between the hydraulic line in between it's usually something like that i know that the slave cylinders on these cars are very common to go i've seen a lot of posts about mark 4 slave cylinders being rubbish and they just sort of explode and that seems to be the case with this one as well so over here on the left hand side we've got a reservoir for the clutch fluid but also the brake fluid there's two pipes i won't be able to show you just down sort of down there one goes to the brakes i think and one goes to the clutch so it goes along here down the back somewhere over there and then down to the slave center which sits on top of the gearbox under this air box now in the actual fluid reservoir i don't know if you can see this but there's like a main compartment so this bit here and then there's a little slit just above where my finger is and that i believe is where the clutch gets its fluid from so the clutch and brake fluid reservoir are separated in there but it's in the same one if that makes sense so if you do lose your clutch like what's happened here you don't get all the fluid drain out and then you lose your brakes as well because that would be pretty dangerous so if your clutch goes there'll still be enough fluid in there the level will be high enough for your brakes to still work so you can come to a stop it'll just be the clutch that goes out so as you can see there's not much fluid in there the fluid would usually be up to sort of about here now in order to find where it's leaking from it's pretty simple all i'm going to do is i've got a bottle of brake fluid here and i'm literally going to top this up just fill it right back up to where it should be so that the fluid can get to the clutch or the release bearing or slaves under whatever you want to call it so that's now full as you can see so if we go ahead and pump on the clutch pedal we'll have to do it by hand because the clutch pedal goes to the floor but if we just press on that three times we should now be able to see where the fluids coming from and it's going to be under the car you could probably always i don't know if you might see it on the camera there's a big puddle directly above that puddle is the gearbox and also the slave zone so i'll set the camera up under here and you'll be able to see it come out right so you're now under the car and i'm gonna press the brake the clutch pedal even so i'm now pumping it you should be able to see fluid coming out now yep there you go so that is our slaves on the leaking and uh it's pretty bad it's completely burst and that is how we know that the slave cylinder has gone um because it's it's absolutely just dripping out there like crazy whenever you press the clutch pedal it's just it's just seeping out pretty bad so that's confirmed it 100 slave cylinder gone now the work begins so i think i've decided i'm gonna um work in the engine bay first and then jack it up afterwards it's gonna make a lot more sense for me to start taking bits of pile here battery's got come out the battery tray the air box and there's a few other ancillary bits around here but mostly just this what you can see right in front of me and then i think i'll jack it up take the wheels off and then start taking off some of the stuff off the bottom like um belly pans and stuff like that all right i'm going for the air box first it's got a jubilee clip and then just the sensor there i think that's it cow's in there oh there you go a bit of a wrestle okay pull out number one you can go over there and i'm going to work on this battery next i think this covers pretty much toast i don't know whoever took this off last but they they're pretty brutal about it all right i take this little eight mil out it's a little back bolt down there the battery stay that should slide out then so i'm hoping this will just slide forwards now which it does and we've got the negative and positive there i'll take the negative off first i think all right it's the battery out so we got in here right so that leaves us with the battery tray in here that looks like it's held in by more eight mils maybe three of them so normally my camera wasn't recording that whole time as i just did that but i've removed the battery tray now that was just here and then i've also removed this extra piece of air intake which just sat pretty much there just taking that off here's the battery tray it's just held on by three bolts so that's all off you can see we've got a lot more access now in here and just by taking those few bits off we can pretty much see everything we need we've got the gear selectors to take off that kind of is next and uh the wiring harness along the front here which is for like the reverse switch and for the battery wires and stuff just need to disconnect that from the battery start motor is there just a little bit tricky to get to but shouldn't be too bad and there's not actually that much more up here to take off really other than that it's just the gearbox bolts but i've got a lot to do underneath before we can even think about that [Music] right so the mondeo is now up in the air i'm always a little bit like scared of seeing such a large car yeah and then i've gotta get under there as well um i don't mind lifting up these small little cars like this but the mondeos they're very heavy very big and i've put four axle stands under there so i've got red ones and yellow ones and then i put the wheels under there as well so it should be safe i've given it a good old you know shaky shake and it's not going anywhere um i always just get a bit nervous it's just me as a person the next thing to do is underneath these things i've got like two trays on them one for the front one for the rear this black one at the front here has got to go and then there's a second larger one which goes under the engine which is just here this one seems to be held on by a bunch of 10 mil bolts like so and then the front one is some clips and some little bolts and stuff like that so i'm going to go ahead and take them off and that'll give us a better look at the bottom of the engine and the subframe and we can get an idea of what we've got to do to get it all out [Music] as she comes you can see where i've been leaking there's the brake fluid now if you have a look under the car as well you can see the bell housing and that's where our brake fluid is coming from it's pretty damn soaked if that's not a good indication is what's wrong i don't know what is right there's one on the tray there's number two on the tray got all the screws and stuff this fell out that's what that this fell out then all that is either [Music] all right so as you would have just seen i've gone ahead and removed the inner wheel arch liner as well and the access to everything is just so much easier um i can get to all the subframe bolts as you can see there you can get to all the wishbone bolts and just for the sake of six bolts it's well worth taking that out because you can just access everything so much easier um i've gotta do the driver's side yeah i haven't done that yet but yeah it's a big old thing and it hides a lot of stuff so that is gone this is all it took to remove it all right so as you can see i've removed the driver's side uh wheel well arch as well so much mud fell out but look at this state of that just mud everywhere i'm gonna have to give this a really good clean before i put them back in because that is just gonna cause rust in the future so my next plan of action is to start removing stuff which is keeping the subframe in for those that don't know this here is the subframe and it basically is there to attach all the suspension components to so the steering rack is connected to it which is this thing here which goes up there the lower arms connect to it and also the sway bar connects to it the front there's not really a lot that mounts to it but it's all the sort of rear stuff that you really got to worry about so my plan of action is i'm going to remove the subframe without the steering rack on without the sway bar on and i'm also going to detach the lower arms from it as well so these here i'm going to attach them away and they will stay um in place you can remove the bottom ball joint on these down there but i don't really want to have to mess with the ball joint it's easier just to take two bolts off that rear arm one bolt off there and then the arm will come away and that's what i'm gonna do anyway i then need to remove the sway bar which is those two bolts there can you see them there's one here and one here just need to hold them with a spanner and there's a bolt underneath two of them each side and then there's one bolt that holds the steering rack in place uh you get that from underneath as well i think there's about six main bolts that hold your subframe to the actual car and um and then subframe should come down at least that's the hope so i'm going to start taking some of these bolts apart i'm going to spray some wd in there first because they look a bit crusty i am going to be referring back to the hanes manual for this you know i've never done this job before i've never worked on a mac 4 before so it doesn't hurt to refer back to this just to sort of give you a bit of guidance okay so i'm underneath the car and the first thing that's coming off is this exhaust bracket here you can see the exhaust runs down there two bolts there's one there and there's one the other side i'm gonna remove them and that should free up the exhaust from the subframe so these bolts here are 10 mils one here on the other side just going to crack them loose not very tight right so next up on the chopping block is going to be the steering rack bolts so this here is the steering rack it goes in there and the bolts come in from underneath i'll show you which one it is got two bolts here for this wishbone and then the one right next to it which is right here that is our steering rack bolt and there's one exactly the same place the other side 18 mils i'm gonna have a go at using the impact but chances are we're probably going to bring the breaker bar out because these are probably going to be quite tight yeah oh yeah they are tight nice long bolt right so that's the steering rack bolts out just two of them make sure i keep them safe so i know where they go back right so next up is going to be the anti-roll bar um it's connected here on a drop link and then as you can see it goes up round and then in there there's a bushing and then there's held on by two nuts and bolts there you go so i've got spanner on the top which is a nut 21 mil nut and then on the bottom there is two bolts as you can see so i'm going to hold the top of the spanner and then undo the bottom of the ratchet and we should be able to take two of them off and then obviously to the other side as well [Applause] so [Music] so this sway bar should be free now yeah as you can see okay so that's free from the subframe so is the steering whack you can probably see lift up so they will now stay in place when we drop the subframe down they'll just sort of dangle where they are right so of all this stuff back here pretty much free all the bolts removed um there's another bolt for the front of the wishbone here and that will release this whole arm away from the subframe so subframe bottom wishbone uh once this bolt's removed that will pull out of there both sides and that'll be the suspension completely free from the subframe guys are tight these are it's a workout [Laughter] so moving inside the car now in the driver's side footwell i need to undo the bolt that joins from the steering rack which is that thing there it's a pretty awkward place to film to be honest but god's tight why is it so tight i've got it [Music] right there's our bolt and then [Music] as you can probably see we've disconnected the [Music] actual column which is here it's been disconnected from the rack okay so next up on the agenda is the smelly messy job which is going to be to drain the fluid out of the gearbox the drain bolt is [Music] about there pound bolt looks like a i want to say seven or eight mil so i'm going to crack that loose and drain all the oil out of this because i want to remove the drive shafts and when i do that i don't want oil to go everywhere so so uh right so i guess it's about time for a quick little update um i've been doing a bunch of work and not really talking through it it's not the weather to be out here today so i just kind of want to get as much as i could done whilst i had the time to do it and i feel like i've accomplished quite a lot so far the subframe is essentially ready to come out the only thing that's left to undo really is the rear gearbox mount which connects the gearbox to the subframe other than that i think that everything else is disconnected i'll just give you a quick look even though you've already seen me do it all the uh lower wishbone uh disconnected and i've just put them on a few bricks just so that the tension on the ball joints not too much for a while i brought them out to the side so they're out the way i've undone both of the drive shaft bolts and i've got both of the drive shafts out as you can see this is the driver's side one and you just saw me do the passenger side one so they're now both free from the hub i just need to pull them out of the gearbox again this side the arm is free i'm just resting on some bricks underneath you've seen gearbox always been drained and have undone the rear um exhaust mount you saw me do that first all the bolts for the arms the bolts for the sway bar the bolts for the steering rack so they're all now free and i believe that this bolt here that goes through the gearbox mount is the last one we need to do and then we can go ahead and actually drop the subframe down which is quite exciting right there's the bolt for that mount and as you can see you can now rock the engine it's all now free right so at the rear of the subframe underneath here there's a main subframe bolt which is there there's a cross member thing that goes across the back there and that's bottled to the body there so there's three bolts to take out i'm gonna remove the back ones first and then take them out and then there's just one at the front which is that big guy right there you'll take all the back ones out first and support it with like an axle stand or something or brick and then take the front ones out and just lower the whole thing down there's a 21mm bolt and it was very very tight i had to swing on that thing right so that there is the rear cross member you can pull that to the side you can probably also see the rear of the subframe has now dropped from the car and it's loose i have put a bucket under there just to catch it if it falls a bit more and there we have one monday subframe right so as you can see front subframe has been removed i don't know if anyone can tell me what this thing is it looks like an electronic box but there's no wires going to it that i can see it just seems like it's kind of just on there so i don't really know what it is it doesn't say what it is on top so if anyone's got any ideas let me know but now that that is out that gives me a lot more room as you can see to get the gearbox out it's now completely clear now so my job's left to do are drive shafts that got come out of the gearbox so that's probably what i'll do next the starter motors got come out which is just up there and i think it's just the bolts for the gearbox i don't think there's much else holding it in i need to support the engine from underneath and then i need to take the gearbox off and lower it down so so all right so i've got both drive shafts out as you've just seen they actually came out really easily um next thing i want to do is there's a turbo pipe under here that goes underneath the plastic one i want to get that out of the way because there's two gearbox bolts here that you can't get to because of this pipe looks like it's just held on this end and a little bolt there and then just a jubilee clip up there and someone hasn't put it on properly as you can probably see removing that pipe has um freed up a lot of room under here to be able to see what's going on the gearbox looks to be bolted to the catalytic converter you can see up there there's a couple of bolts just up in there to remove um to disconnect them to and then there's a gearbox bolt here there's a gearbox bolt if you can see it just up there and then there's a couple underneath here which is now revealed one there one there and then all is going to be left to do is just to support the engine under here on the sump um and i'll get my gearbox stand out and support the gearbox and remove the gearbox mount and then we can wiggle off all right i've removed the start metal bolts i don't know how we'll be able to see this that's the start motor right here so that should now come out there which it does it's basically just got to sit back a bit i'm just going to let it hang in there really right i'd say that was a pretty productive afternoon's work um i managed to get the subframe out as you've seen which is very very good as soon as i got that off that sort of paved the way to do the rest of it and we're now at a point where tomorrow i'm going to come out here and i'll be able to pull the gearbox out i've taken out all the bolts apart from two at the bottom um i just need to support the engine support the gearbox remove the engine mount on the gearbox side and then we can wiggle it off and we can bring it out it's gone really smooth actually i'm very happy i don't want to jinx myself but i'm really happy with how things have gone so far i'm nice and grubby as you can see but it's been well worth it that's for sure i'll just show you where i'm at up here everything is detached there's the gear linkages all the bolts are out start motors out hydraulic line to the uh slave cylinder that's out all wiring detached everything like that both drive shafts are out as well send them down there right so welcome back it's actually been a couple of days since i last filmed and that's just purely based on the weather it's been on and off raining even today it's been enough raining it's poured down i've absolutely soaked 10 minutes ago it's now blue skies it's been really unpredictable and so i've just been coming out here doing bits and pieces and i've now got myself to the stage where the gearbox is ready to come out i've unhooked everything i've double checked that i've unhooked everything so i just need to support the engine now from underneath which i've got a jack to do and then i'm going to put another support under the gearbox remove the last remaining bolts and wiggle the gearbox out and bring it down that's the plan so these here are the contraptions i'm going to be using i had to buy a new couple of little bits for this i didn't have to but i decided to make my life easier this is actually for gearboxes for removing gearbox but it's so high off the ground that i'm never going to be able to bring the gearbox low enough so i'm going to be using this to support the engine i've made myself a little diy wooden block thing with some soft foam pads on top so that i don't do any damage to the sump so this is gonna something's gonna be resting on there and i'll use this to jack the engine up and down and then over here this is actually a technically a motorcycle jack so you put this under your motorcycle and it lifts it up from the frame however i'm going to be using this as a gearbox helper tool i'm going to put this under the gearbox i'm going to raise it right up it comes up to about here i'm going to wrestle the gearbox out rest it on it and then uh unscrew it by this just screw this up and down to raise it and lower it and then i'll bring it down to the floor on this hopefully that's the plan so i'm gonna get everything set up and then uh we'll remove the last few bolts and get this gearbox out so the last two bolts to remove are underneath just here one two so i'm gonna crack them and take them out all right it's the last gearbox bolt out okay so the engine is free as you can see it's moving that's resting on our jack down there i need to now get this gearbox off i might get like a pry tool or something and try and pry it off okay i think we're off you can see the flywheel it's a good start all right i'm gonna try and bring this thing down now i've got my impact the gearbox is uh resting on my jack thing let's see how this goes [Music] there goes slowly [Music] all right i've got the gearbox i'm holding it wiring's in the way of course right slowly down that is a heavy gearbox right so there you have it you've just seen the gearbox has been removed lots of sludge in there and also just inspecting the uh slave cylinder so this is what's gone wrong here uh there's a bunch of different pieces coming off it like pieces of ring and stuff i'm guessing the seal inside here um has blown and these bits have gone as well the bearing don't sound too bad but the hydraulic side to this is obviously no good anymore so this is what we'll be changing out this is the main reason we're actually doing this job i'll make sure i give all this a clean out as well get rid of all this gunk and stuff like that but that is the gearbox out this is i'm not surprised either because it's a diesel engine the heaviest gearbox that i've ever played with um i can barely lift it even just turning it around is a a drop and a half it's a big old like dense old thing i can all the gearboxes i've taken out in the past i've been able to like physically lift and either i'm just weak or this is a heavy old girl so i shan't be doing i shouldn't be moving it very far i'm just going to kind of leave it under the car and then change out the thingy change out the clutch which i'll now show you and then put it back in so here is the clutch you can't really see a lot of the minute that's obviously the uh pressure plate you can see the dual mesh flywheel in there as well i'm gonna be taking this off in a second so we'll have a little inspection of it and i'm also gonna be changing the dual mass flywheel so we'll take that off as well so we can inspect the rear main seal if the rear main seal is all intact and it's not leaking i'm not going to touch it i know a lot of people will say to do it while you're in there but when i disturb things like that they always end up leaking afterwards so it's not leaking now i'm not going to change it i'm just not going to bother but we will be changing the clutch and the the flywheel as well so i'll get i'll whip them off next right there's a pressure plate a little bit too bad there's a couple little heat marks you can see these ones here this clutch plate looks like it's seen better days you can see how the ridges are all disappeared you can see some faint ones there where they're left but for the most part the clutch is just completely smooth which means it doesn't have a lot of life left anyway same on the other side see how smooth that is if you compare it to the new one so this one's here's the old one you can see how smooth it is and that there's the new one you can see it's got little grooves that's how it should look from what i gather it wasn't slipping or anything but this wasn't too far away from needing a new one so it's probably been a lot of miles since it's last one you can see how much better condition this one's in obviously brand new good chance to just look at them side by side they're identical same size same part number looks good you can also see the thickness side by side there's a bit of difference there so you know it's funny when i started this job i didn't have the intention of changing the flywheel it wasn't something that i was going to do unless i know it needed it let me show you this the flywheel is actually kaput as well it's no good absolutely no good you could never get away of using this again i haven't actually ordered the flywheel yet but i definitely will be doing it now right so this here is the flywheel it's a dual mass which means it's got like two pieces that are put together and its intention is to dampen vibrations there is supposed to be a little bit of play to the left and right so like that now i think this is a little bit excessive but that's not really what i'm worried about and what i'm worried about is this if i pull on the little dowel the flywheel moves side to side i hope you can see that all right it moves in and out you can probably hear that that's not supposed to make that noise believe it or not that's not good so this flywheel is actually kaput so it's a damn good job that we've decided to change that as well right well there she is this is the flywheel i should be able to show you a bit better now how it's failed you see that lifting up i don't think it's supposed to do that so i've just noticed this as well um these are the bolts for the flywheel and the heads of the bolts looks like the flywheel has been hitting them i don't know if you can see that but there's kind of a shine term there are black bolts they've got like a black finish term but the top has got like a silver sort of scraping and you can see it on all three of these in fact most of them have got it this one's got it as well i think when the flywheel's been moving up and down where it shouldn't be it's just been catching the head of these bolts because where they sit you know they don't sit that far down in there and if this has been flapping around you know moving up and down as it spins um it's probably been catching them and uh that could have ended badly can i right then folks i think that's probably a good place to end part one i feel like we've got quite a bit done in this first part we've got the car completely stripped apart gearbox is out as you can see down there all the clutch and dual mass flywheel and stuff is sitting on the wall and what we'll be doing in the next one is obviously cleaning everything up and getting all the parts ready putting your thing back on clutching new flywheel and stuff like that getting the gearbox back in the car i don't know if i'll have it running by the end of the next one but we'll certainly have it mostly back together i hope you guys have enjoyed this i've tried to show you as much as possible and without being too boring that's what i always try and do i always try and give you as much information as possible without it being like a step-by-step sort of dreary video so hope you guys have enjoyed it if you have make sure you give a thumbs up it helps out my channel a lot for those of you that have bought stickers so far massive appreciation uh you guys are directly funding the dual mass flywheel it wasn't the cheap part and uh you guys have really made that a lot easier on my bank account so thank you very much for everyone's support stickers if you want to contribute you still can i'll always leave the link for the stickers and down below i'm very happy with how everything's gone touchwood everything's gone smoothly so far it's been not a bad job i was very nervous about this one because it's a big car big like chunky diesel engine and for some reason i thought it was going to be a lot more difficult than clutch jobs i've done in the past but touch wood again turns out that um it's pretty similar pretty similar it's definitely something that a diy could do as long as you're confident enough um i definitely would recommend it so join me in the next one where we start getting this thing put back together thank you very much for watching i appreciate you all i'll see you guys in the next [Music] video you

Channel: The Savage Garage

Views: 72,259

Rating: 4.9606061 out of 5

Keywords: Ford, mondeo, mk4, tdci, 2.0, diesel, project, clutch, clutch pedal, slave cylinder, cheap car, mk3, ford mondeo, titanium x, alloy wheels, turbo, salvage, saloon, hatchback, mods, modifications, cheap mods, the savage garage, tools, heated seats, Ford focus, ford mondeo st, new car, clutch replacement, slave cylinder replacement, clutch pedal on floor, clutch gone, MOT, silver, yum cars, detailing, leather seats, gearbox, removal, how to, ST, RS

Id: jWF4RexZMnM

Length: 36min 28sec (2188 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 15 2021