Mobile Home Wall Removal. Smoothing out the wall strips

[Music] hey if you've got a manufactured home like a double white a single white etc and you want to get rid of these seams and change your wall look entirely i'm going to show you how to do that right after this [Applause] [Music] all right thanks for stopping by my channel here my name is guy purcella i'm a 35 year drywall pro i've been doing this i'm 59 and i first started walking on stilts when i was eight years old but i've been doing this a long time and i've i've gotten rid of a lot of these modular home uh looks a lot of people want to update the look but it's really hard because this is drywall that is covered with a vinyl so it's not your ordinary wall you can't strip this vinyl off of here so what do you do well i'm going to walk you through how i go about it now i will say that this is all a little bit um iffy because we're working with this vinyl and it's not the ideal surface to put drywall mud over it which is what we're gonna do but i'm gonna give you some pointers on how i've done it i've never had a customer call back and say it failed and i've probably done at least a dozen of them if not more and uh there's a few tricks though that'll help you get a successful job out of this and hey if you like learning these kind of things i've got over 150 videos out with many more plans so be sure to click that subscribe button and click the bell notification that way you get notified each time we put out a new video you know when you got these modular homes in in manufactured homes you always have a lot of this trim it's kind of everywhere a lot of times it's around the windows doors these seams and all this is is where the two sheets of drywall come together and like i say this comes from the factory with this vinyl adhered to it and you really just can't remove it so what you got to do is do something over the top now you got a couple options you could peel this off put a whole new layer of say a quarter inch or half inch even drywall on here there's some drawbacks to that like it's going to change the depth of everything on the wall like your thermostats your outlets switches etc and it changes door trim and all that so that one's got its own complications this is the easiest way and what we're going to do is start by removing this trim it's just held on by a bunch of staples mostly and some nails so we're going to get out a couple of tools here we're going to start with just this i call it a wonder bar it's a great little pry bar it's got two ways to pry some nail pulling options and just start pulling the trim off now it comes off pretty easy once you get it started then you'll notice there's about 10 000 nails per square inch here they're nails and staples they're just kind of everywhere so you want to go through and drive all these in so you got to set them a little bit because there is no recess okay now once you think you've got it pretty good the next step is you want to check it because a lot of times i found that i didn't get them all like i thought here's how you check it all right to check it i went and got my six inch knife you can use a putty knife or whatever whatever you got handy you want to just run it down here and listen for clicks there's a minor one right there now you'll know when you hear it's got that metallic little click and if it does that you still got a high spot so i know we got one just barely sticking out right here now why is that important can't you just mud over it a little heavier you don't want to do that anytime something sticks out even like a 30 second of an inch you'll have mud this wide trying to cover it and this long because it creates you've got to go a little bit more than that so you're going to end up putting it on about a 16th of an inch and that's quite a bit of mud actually and there's just no point in it so just go ahead and drive them all smooth then the next step is to check for tightness okay if you can see this here it's kind of zoomed in but right here if i push on that that sheet is moving now if you just fix this like it is it's probably going to crack so it's just not really tight so what you want to do is take a cordless drill driver or in this case i've got a drywall screw gun and just re-secure it usually you want to put them about every 8 to 12 inches depends kind of how loose it is but the basics are you just want this head slightly below the surface but not too much if you go too much you tear the paper and loses all its strength if you don't go enough like i did right here if you don't go far enough you'll when you go to mud it you'll get a little click and it'll stick up through your mud and cause you a little bit of problem so you want to set it the right depth i would recommend getting one of them dimplers like in this picture that'll help you set it better without going too deep okay then normally what i do to fix these is i go through and tape them like any new drywall you want to use mesh tape and hot mud if you use mesh tape don't use regular joint compound you got to use hot mud which is fast setting joint compound like in this picture here you can use paper tape and regular regular weight all-purpose don't use the lightweight it's paper tape and regular weight because it has more glue or hot mud and mesh tape i like hot mud and mesh tape because hot mud shrinks less sets up quicker allows you to put a second coat on quicker um so normally you would just go through and tape it and then coat it and float it now on this job she wanted to be on a tight budget so we're going to try a brand new product and i've done a little experimenting on this job already and it seems to be working well and that product is one that was sent to me by the inventor of it it's called tape in mud so it's a tapeless drywall mud and i've got another video where i talked about it a little bit i'll show you when i go to mix it up it's basically chopped up little fibers i think there's some fiberglass and some other materials in there he's experimented with this for like 10 years and i think he's offering it for sale soon i'm not totally sure if it's for sale yet i'll put a link to his website down below though and basically this is kind of like putting fibers in concrete if you've ever heard of when they pour concrete they normally have to put rebar in it the rebar resists the breakage of the concrete it resists it pulling apart and cracking and this does basically the same thing they have a different product in the concrete but basically it's a fiber product in their long fibers and i think it's not quite as strong as concrete with rebar but i've had a shop that was poured that way and i had no problems with it so it makes sense and this is going to save a lot of money because we don't need this joint tape to use this product and like i say i came up here and i worked on her house one day already and did a day's worth of repairs like that and i've come back about three weeks later and only one of them is cracked and that's because it was moving and i should have screwed it down i didn't catch that so we'll do that next okay now that we got all this tacked down with some screws uh we're ready to mut it so i'd go ahead and do that now what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna use a 45-minute fast setting drawing compound i've got a lot to do to this house so i'm in no rush but i like it because it doesn't shrink like i said and it's going to stick really well and it works really well with this product that we're going to use now if you are just doing a little bit you could go with 20 minute but only if you're like a pro really experienced if you're novice i would never use faster than 20 minute unless you're mixing up a tiny little bit or it'll bite you it'll start setting up in your pan so now everything i got is right down here so i'm just going to show you what i do i got a lot to do to the whole house like i say so i'm going to add for my 14 inch pan i'm going to add a full cup of this and i'll probably even have to add some more that was about 24 ounces of water and then i've got my hot mud in this bucket so you just add it in there until the water almost disappears you'll see a little bit of water coming up on the sides and then try mixing it usually that'll get you pretty close if it's too thick or too thin you can always adjust it but i would recommend that you add this before the powder because i found that if you're mixing up a big pan this tends to be it's so fluffy tends to fall over the edges and out of your pan so let me show you you can see it's just a fluffy powdery looking stuff i'll show you a close-up on the screen here we're just going to add i don't know there's an exact ratio for this i like to add quite a bit for this purpose so i'm adding about a handful to a whole pan of mud maybe a little bit more okay so i already added this to it like i said then i started adding the powder and it's going to be kind of hard to show you but add until like most of it went away there's a little water popping up at the end usually i like to mix it with this egg beater in a drill works really well for these powdered things just make sure you're on your slowest speed or it will fly everywhere start out a little slow and it sounds like you just mixed up a batch of brownies don't go get your wife's egg beater go down to the thrift store and get you a 99 cent egg beater that's all you need and that quick it's clean okay now the way this comes from the factory like i said it really doesn't have a recessed edge so we're not trying to fill much and we don't need to put a big hump on here if you do the joint tape you're going to have to coat it wider so with this method i've been doing this through this house so far and it's working pretty good i just put it on with a six inch knife and then i kind of lay my knife down see the more you stand your knife up the more you'll wipe off see if this is showing here so that'll wipe it off tight if you want to leave a little behind lay your knife down and push harder it'll spread it out more so you could go down and feather these edges and then and by feathering we tilt and push and pull and that gives that feathered edge then lay our knife down quite a bit and come down through here like that now we've left just a decent little coating on here we didn't get it too thin because in order for this to have it's a decent amount of strength it really should have a little bit of thickness on it so we'll do the same thing down here now i am going to come back and put a second coat on with regular all-purpose mud i'm going to use the regular green label all purpose because it has more glue in it and i'm not sure how well drywall mud sticks to this vinyl so i'm going to go ahead and use that so that it make sure it sticks a little better so that's it for the first coat we'll come back after this sets up put a second coat on and then we've got to create a little bit of texture and i'll show you why this vinyl is not silky smooth it actually has a grain to it so i'm going to experiment with sanding it i'm going to have to sand all these repairs in a straight down vertical motion to match the grain otherwise you're going to have all these shiny spots everywhere you did that repair so if you do have any kind of texture try and match it okay now this is dried completely you can see that it filled in nicely and here's a close-up of what that looks like there is a little bit of shrinkage you always get a little shrinkage and then uh what you want to do next is kind of like any other finishing you want to brush sand this and the purpose of that is to take off any ridges that you might have left which could be a lap mark or sometime you just get little basically splatters goobers and you don't want any of that on there so you're not trying to sand it flat unless you put it on too heavy which you shouldn't do so what you want to do is brush sand it with like a pole sander is ideal and i'll show you some alternatives the reason this is ideal is because it's very flat this is very flat has a little bit of foam right in there so it's got a little bit of give to it so it's not if it was too hard it would actually dig edges in all the time so this flatness will allow you to flatten things out better whereas if you use a sanding sponge it tends to follow the contours it's too soft and flexible and so if you've got a little hump it will just follow it it'll smooth it out but it won't flatten it so this that's why this is better another option would be this is a cheaper method a hand sander if you're just doing a little bit these will work great and run them kind of sideways even these if you run any sander like this that edge will leave grooves in what you're sanding so just brush sand it so do it with a pole real quickly really like that is about all you need again if you didn't put it on too heavy knock off the dust then we're ready to coat it okay and for this final coat we're going to use just regular all-purpose this is the heavy weight version because it has more glue in it and this vinyl i don't know how well mud regular lightweight would stick to this it doesn't have as much glue so be safe i'm going to use this and a 12 inch knife now i've showed you in other videos how to properly hold your knife and coat these but i'm going to show you here because 95 of my viewers are not subscribers so what you want to do is load your mud up about like so a pretty decent amount on there you could put more but you might drip you don't want to be dripping so the mud is not thinned down coming out of the bucket it's a little bit thin so i left it just the way it was the lightweight mud will often thin it down so you start with your knife on the wall at an angle about like this and then as you go down i'm going to show you with no mud as you go down you start tilting your blade over and that helps spread it out now you do have to put a decent amount of force on here if you go too light you don't push hard enough you'll get something that kind of happens like that it's like you're doing a skip trowel so you actually have to push fairly firmly and the more you lean your knife over the more mud you put on there now if you get a scratch like that just dig the little booger out and go over it again so let's start from the beginning and i'm gonna give you a close-up view okay i got my gopro up close here hopefully this is the first time i've used that so hopefully this works out okay so normally i do this fairly quickly so let me go ahead and slow that down i'll do it one more time and as you go down you see i'm leaning my hand over and i'm pushing fairly firmly and that puts a pretty even coat on and your next step is to feather these edges and then we don't want to leave a lot on here on these joints because they really aren't recessed we don't want to put a lot of mud on here we're just trying to get enough to cover those little edges that want to pop through and if you happen to have a hump and you can tell by putting your knife on here and you're going to leave it smooth and the lighting is going to come at an angle down the wall you might want to actually float it out like a butt joint i've got a separate video on that i'll put that link up here and i'll try and put that in the description down below but for this we just want a thin a fairly thin coat down the middle so again wiping it down put pretty decent pressure and lay your knife down at a fairly steep angle and just go over now there's still a little bit too much mud on there and there's a lot of bubbles and that happens because this is not porous when you go over raw drywall mud it doesn't bubble as much so to take more off we just want to do the same thing and every time you go over it it takes a little bit more off now i'm going to show you a close-up here but i think that's right where we want it we got a decent little coat so that's basically it now if it pops through again anything shows through again you might have to put a third coat on then the final step is basically just to sand it to prep for texture if you're going to do a texture you can do texture right over the wall again use a all-purpose regular weight sticks better now you can do most any texture of this a spray texture orange peel knocked down you can do skip trowels whatever you want you can do a mediterranean style the rougher this comes out overall the more i would advise going with a texture and the heavier the texture the better it covers but it won't cover everything and then after you've sanded it and chose to texture it then what you want to do is spot prime the repair and then it's best to come back and put a coat of paint on the repair all the repairs all through the house and then paint the whole wall afterwards that brings that up to the same porosity basically by putting a primer coat and a coat of paint and you'll get a more even sheen across here otherwise it'll flash and stand out where every one of these repairs are and we don't want that i'm also going to roll this with like a half inch nap to try and get a little extra stipple into the paint so that it helps disguise the difference between these things and changes the look here we want it to look like a regular painted wall this has this grain to it so it helps hold the mud it gives it much something to bite to and the paint now otherwise i would recommend putting a high bond primer on here just ask at your local hardware store and then tell you what you need or paint store would be better and then after you put all that primer on then go ahead and paint it with regular paint so hey there's some more videos popping up here and you might want to click on one of those they could help you out too i would really really appreciate comments down below even if you just say hi it helps my video get promoted better by youtube and a thumbs up and a subscription and i look forward to seeing you guys on the next video take care everybody

Channel: That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement

Views: 708,480

Keywords: mobile home wall removal, mobile home wall batten strips, mobile home wall panel replacement, mobile home wall panels, mobile home wall repair, mobile home wall repair do it yourself, mobile home wall strips, mobile home wall trim, removing mobile home wall panels, removing mobile home wall strips, mobile home interior wall repair, mobile home renovation, mobile home repair, budget mobile home remodel, modular home wall repair, removing mobile home batten strips

Id: 5VyQUa7mEcM

Length: 21min 11sec (1271 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 11 2021