Messerschmitt Bf109 E-4/B Full Build - Eduard 1/48

[Music] hello everyone and welcome back to my channel in this video i finalized the build of the famous messerschmitt bf109e4b this is a 1 in 48 scale weekend edition kit from edward i chosen this kit because i really like the yellow nose with the red stripe i also used the edward pe set for weekend edition kits and lots of traditional scratch beard with endless patience i started the build with the cockpit fall by the engine you can check both of these builds in videos on my channel if you haven't seen then just click the link on the screen or in the description below the bf109 without a doubt in my opinion is one of the most iconic warplane from world war ii the first prototype made in flight was in the mid 1935 and the 109 range was produced up to the end of the war they built more than 37 thousand airplanes this particular bird was built in the wiener neustadt fluxley vehicle under serial number 5901 between august and october in 1940 the factory produced 9b and 20n variants of the e4 model in the range of 5891-5919 if my research is correct she was produced in the middle of this [Music] period while the fail the pilot of this plane was shot down and crash-landed at peckham kent second of october in 1940. crashed plane was put on display to help raise funds for the war outside saint nicholas church in durham [Music] after the engine and the cockpit were built i had to build them into the fuselage first there is a huge gap behind the engine i cut a piece of styrene to fill the gap and drill some holes for the oil and the water pipes i made some thin pipes for the search tank of the landing gear hydraulic system i painted the whole middle section in tamiya lm02 grey i glued everything into the port side of the fuselage first was the cockpit followed by the middle section [Music] [Music] [Music] i upgraded the front and the back of the oil cooler with pe parts then i painted it in flat aluminum after it dried i glued this into the port side as well the out pipe from the oil cooler is at the top left back corner i used lead wire and painted it black and the connection point is copper hardly visible but i believe it looks cool do not make the same mistake that i made do not glue the exhaust pipes before installing the engine into the fuselage it has made the assembly so much harder so finally all the elements were glued into the port side and before i closed the fuselage i applied lead wires for the cooling systems in and out pipes the engine mount was designed in a very clever way if the aircraft is standing on the ground the whole weight of the engine is on the landing gears it doesn't burden the other structure of the airframe such as the wings one more useful aspect was that the wings could be detached from the fuselage while the plane was standing on its own gear this is the engine block ventilation pipe i made it from 0.8 millimeter alloy pipe and i painted it in lm02 i also painted the rubble connection and the two metal clips on it finally i could close the fuselage i used tamiya salmon and extra thin salmon i secured it with masking tape and left it to dry for a day [Music] the clear parts in the kit are very nice usually i like to use die cut masking sheet but this time i didn't have one so i had to make my own the canopy of the 109 is simple not too many curved shapes so easy to cut it i used various tamiya masking tapes and a brand new hobby blade [Music] i messed them inside and outside then painted their inside lamp02 [Music] i used the pe instrument panels and glued them together with tamiya x22 clear after it dried completely i dropped a drop of clear warning into every single instrument's face [Music] i made the back of the instrument panel as well i used different diameter styrene and plastic rods glued with extra thin glue i used the face of the panel as a reference guide to place all the parts [Music] i glued all parts together with gel super glue gel super glue gives you a little bit more time to set the parts correctly if you make the back of the instruments make sure to keep enough space for cabling and wiring behind the machine guns originally this area was covered with a zipped opened leather cover [Music] the cooling radiators are located at the bottom of the wings the positioning had both pros and cons to it they located it close to the trailing edge and integrated into the wings with increased airflow around the wing and enhanced cooling properties the problem was that the position of the undercarriage was such that dirt could be thrown from the wheels directly into the radiators operating from a muddy dirty airfield could cause blocked overheated radiators which can be a huge problem the back of the cooling radiators are wrong i cut them off and made a piece of styrene to fill the gap i also cut the cooling flaps off but this is for later i painted the pe parts in dark iron and i used a dry brush technique to highlight the details i made my own liquid putty mix tamiya's basic putty with mr color leveling thinner apply it with a toothpick then clear the excess with leveling thinner try to do a quick job otherwise the leveling thinner can destroy can ruin the surface of the plastic [Music] after i glued the wing parts together i had to finely shape the stirring sheet that i applied behind the engine before the fit of the fuselage and the wings is excellent just a little bit of feeling and sanding is required [Music] i also rescribed the disappeared panel lines and rivets i used a 0.1 millimeter razor saw and various of rivet makers [Music] i modified the revi gun side i applied a thin transparent sheet and the electric cable onto it for the cable i use 0.2 millimeter lead wire [Music] i painted it flat black and the soft pad at the front is brown leather [Music] [Music] for the next step i glued the front and the back part of the canopy i glued all the contour surfaces in place i like to set them in an offset position if you do the same don't forget to match the contour stick and the pedals in the cockpit when i build the cockpit i already set them a little bit on off position [Music] now the model was ready for paint but first i had to cover the engine and the cockpit [Music] i used thin styrene sheet and approximately three and a half kilometers of masking tape maybe even more [Music] okay let's get start the paint job i started the process with cleaning with isopropyl alcohol i cleaned the whole surface to remove grease and grime then i unify the surface with mr surfacer 1200 primer it relieves imperfections and provides a perfect surface for the colors i left it dry properly and then sanded the surface with a fine sanding sponge to make it nice and smooth i used two different light blue paints for the belly the aero m76 is more grayish so it's perfect for a bass tone it's almost the same tone as the primer after it dried i used my favorite pre-shading technique i painted marble patches with a fine 0.2 millimeter airbrush with a low compressor settings here is a quick tip add a little bit of paint retarder into the paint mixture it will make the paint dry slower plus helping to keep the nozzle of the airbrush clean [Music] it is a time-consuming job but worth the time because the result is amazing [Music] so [Music] after the white paint i used earth brown for the panel lines i don't really like to use very dark colors such as black for pre-shading on a light surface those colors are too contrasty for my taste [Music] finally the top light blue layer lm65 [Music] i applied very thin layers up to the point where i was satisfied with the effect [Music] i used masking tape between the colors the transition in between the colors was thin according to the original photos i checked for the top colors i used the same technique as i used for the light blue i used tamiya rlm02 for a base color then the white marbling followed by the brown shading [Music] [Music] this time i use darker brown [Music] for the top colors i used lm02 and lm71 from mr hobby i really like the tone of these paints again i used multiple thin layers for the desired effect [Music] here is another quick tip let the paint dry because the real effect is different if the paint is still wet or it's already dried [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] i'm really pleased with the result and all the time effort and hundreds of meters of masking tape that i've put into this paint job was definitely worth it there were two ugly patches on both sides of the fuselage probably the plane changed operational unit and they had to remark it quickly i used mr hobby rlam 70 to paint them [Music] [Music] the main paint job is done let's move on the yellow i realized that the calling is wrong if you want to build it separately you have to cut this area because the air intake is here [Music] highly recommended to use white primer or white paint underneath the yellow without it the yellow is not as colorful as it should be for pre-shading i use the same earth brown as on the belly of the plane this midtone brown is very nice underneath the yellow [Music] [Music] and finally the famous red stripe around the nose [Music] [Music] here is some good advice never touch the freshly painted surface with your fingers i had to fix it later i also made the hedge locks and the holes in the front of the cowling [Music] i painted the gaps at the landing flaps in lm02 i used tamiya llm02 this time for shade differences [Music] i also painted the rest stripes on the top of the wings i used another couple of meters of masking tape i protected the whole paint job with a clear coat there is a missing rivet line around the cone of the propeller this was the easiest way to make it i used rosie derivator 0.65 [Music] millimeter i used the same technique for the cone as i used on the calling first the white primer followed by the brown shading and then finally the yellow paint [Music] i used mr color silver under the black green on the propellers this paint is durable therefore there is no need for chipping varnish the hub of the propeller is flat aluminum [Music] the wing cannon barrels were broken in the kit so i bought this aftermarket armament set all i had to do is cut the tips and glue the metal ones i used gel super glue they look much better than the original plastic ones [Music] after the paint job i built wires tubes and machine guns on the top and behind the engine i used various materials including lead wires yellow tubes copper wires and super fan wires from a broken headphones to the internet there are lots of original photos that help to make it close to the original as possible unfortunately all of the photos almost all of the photos are black and white so it's not easy to predict what was the original color so we have to guess sometimes it's not easy [Music] in this point i realized that the air intake is yellow not blue so i had to fix it later [Music] [Music] the original parts in the kit of the spark plug covers were too chunky for my taste so i rebuild them from thin styrene sheets with a soft pencil i drew the position of the holes then poked with a needle and drilled them on gradually 0.3 0.5 0.7 and finally with a one millimeter drill bit you need to drill gradually otherwise the thin sheet breaks believe me i learned this the hard way i think they look much better than the original one little effort but totally worth it what do you think let me know applying the decals was straightforward the quality of eduard's decals are nice and thin i had no problems whatsoever i used equal chemicals such as mr mark setter and tamiya mark fitzstrong i applied all of the stencil decals as well because this plane was basically brand new [Music] i drained the insertion holes on both side of the fuselage i forgot to drill them before painting so i had to be super careful not to destroy the nice paint job i used a soft copper tube for the antenna attachment and shaped it like a water droplet it wasn't easy i messed up a lot but eventually i hid the right shape [Music] i really like this little detail the landing gear attachment points are not too deep and because of that i used super glue to make a strong bond to set the right position i used a simple small metal ruler [Music] because i cut off the radiator flaps before i could recreate them from copper sheet for the precise band i used photo edge 2. [Music] for the mechanism of the radiator flaps i used 0.3 millimeter yellow pipes [Music] i cut off the tail wheels and drilled a hole for the axle for the exhale i used alloy pipe [Music] i really like to work on small details i believe these small details like brake lines antennas and many many more make the whole model much better [Music] [Music] picketing rings for mooring rope are used to move the wings to the ground i used 0.2 millimeter copper wire lovely little detail [Music] accidentally i broke the preto tube so i had to remake it [Music] i used very light abrasion as the machine was probably just over a month old when it was shut down i tried to focus on places where they might have been exposed to the most stress such as where the pilot and the mechanics were walking on the wings i used darker metal color tamiya xf56 metallic grey for this job before weathering i protected the surface with matte varnish i like to use tamiya panel liners but i always make them much thinner than what they are because it's easier to gradually apply for me for the light colors i use grey for the darker shades i use dark gray i only use black when i need some contrasty effect [Music] there was some kind of drain pipe at the back of the port side radiator i'm not sure what the function of this pipe was if you know please let me know down in the comments below easy detail so i made it i bent copper tube but first i put lead wire into it so it doesn't crumble then i glued it with gel super glue [Music] there were two little cones on the antenna i put styrene rod in my little cheap drill and with the diamond file i shaped the cone form then i drilled a hole in the middle with a 0.3 millimeter drill bit in the end i cut it with a saw blade do the end manually otherwise the small piece flies over the room and disappears forever i used ushifander rosten elastic rigging fixed with super glue [Music] the two handles in the front canopy are 0.3 millimeter alloy pipes [Music] last i modified the canopy i made three prototypes but i broke and ruined all of them by accident until i found a way to make it properly first i drilled four holes in the four corners to have some reference i used the 0.5 millimeter drill bit the thinner one always broke and the thicker one turned out to be too rough i perforated between the four corners then all i had to do was open the holes i filed the excess step by step with very fine 200 then 400 and finally 600 diamond files i did it slowly with a little force very easy to break it believe me i broke three ones before drilling and filing i protected the top of the canopy with masking tape actually 3 layers of masking tape just in case i painted lm02 inside then lamp 71 outside [Music] i cut out the windows and shaped them to the appropriate size step by step glue them together with tamiya x22 clear [Music] it was a long and meticulous job but i think every minute was worth it because i'm extremely happy with the result [Music] i spent a lot of time building this model searching the internet or building prototypes but i think it was worth the effort because i'm very pleased with the end result hope you enjoyed this video and see you next time [Music] you

Channel: CSL Visual Studio

Views: 24,129

Keywords: 1/48, Scale model, Plastic model, model build, F4U-1, WW2, airplane, fighter, cockpit, upgrade, control stick, control, scratch build, Eduard, Messerschmitt, Bf 109, Bf109, Bf 109 E-4, Emil, Messerschmitt Bf 109 E-4, Engine, DB601, Daimler Benz, Daimler Benz DB 601, V12

Id: aEmlx-BKQY8

Length: 41min 4sec (2464 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 11 2022