My First 1/32 Scale Kit! | Eduard Messerschmitt Bf109E-3 | The Inner Nerd

hey gang it's me the inner nerd and in this video i'll be making edward's 132 scale bf 109 so stick around and join me whilst i build paint and weather what is my first real attempt at a 132 scale kit let's go [Music] so this project kind of took a bit longer than i anticipated six months in fact but i have been learning to ride a motorbike and it has been summer so it's not been all sanding filling and painting for the entire time as i mentioned at the start of the video this is a 132 scale kit from eduard and it's my first proper attempt i would say at making a kit of this scale i did give the revel tornado a go a few years back but i don't think my skills were anything to do the kit justice hopefully they are now all this video isn't going to be very interesting whilst i'm talking about the video itself i'll be covering the building including some extra detail parts i'll be making myself then in the middle section i primer and paint the model using an airbrush so i'll talk a bit more about that later on then to finish off i'll be weathering and this time i'm only going to be using oil paints as i've seen a lot of comments recently about how to use oils when weathering [Music] as with almost every aircraft kit ever created the instructions start with a cockpit nothing really to report here it builds up nicely this kit's part of the profi pack range so you get an additional photo etch with coloured brass i find it best to cut on something solid this is a slate coaster and if you're new to photoetch or even modelling for that matter i use vms super glue for the non-plastic parts this photo h1 gives just enough time to position the part before it sets [Music] [Applause] [Music] for the plastic parts i use ak's fast setting extra thin cement this is just the same as tamir extra thin quick dry and is the king of glues with this type of modelling so if you haven't already get some also these tweezers are made by mr hobby and they're called mr bevel tweezer mt-204 i think these are discontinued though so you might have a bit of a hard time finding them online [Music] i wanted to make some small modifications to the cockpit and needed to drill out some small holes for this i turned to my proxon micromot these are quite expensive but the best have seen for accuracy just look at the smoothness in that drill bit there as good as the tool was i still made a bit of a hash of that so i 3d printed a replacement part with the holes already in then cut the head off the kit part and glued the pieces together to add more details into the cockpit i use some copper wire of various thicknesses i use 0.3 millimeter mainly and fix them in place one by one using vms super glue i printed some more modifications for what i assumed to be electrical boxes down in the footwell that weren't included in the kit i drilled small holes in these to insert more wires that threaded along the cockpit walls [Music] then it was time for a channel first i've never done an exposed engine before and the one in the kit looked nice so i went ahead and started to remove most of the details to make my own [Music] [Music] starting with one millimeter solder wire i replaced the tube that ran along the side just above the ignition coils all of this detail work was again carried out using vms super glue another tube followed using the copper wire i used for the cockpit slowly adding each detail in turn using the various wire thicknesses and copying my references do you'll notice i only did this on one side of the engine and that's because mainly i can't be bothered with the other but i do plan to feature this model in my first proper diorama and the other half conveniently will be covered in a tarpaulin of some kind [Music] so [Music] [Music] now that all the sub assemblies are built i moved on to primer i'm using mister surface of black and that's mixed with mr color leveling thinner around 50 i spray this at 10 psi using a 0.15 millimeter nozzle [Music] using a slightly lower air pressure this time at 10 psi i use ak real colours rlmo2 for the base colour of the cockpit and the other bits and pieces so the airbrush setups i use are 12 psi for the primer thin 5050 then for the main paint is 10 psi at around 40 thinner if you are new to modelling and want to know a bit more about airbrushing then i have a video that could be of interest it's called model making for beginners and the video uses a nice airfix spitfire to demonstrate on i've tried to include everything in that video and the link is in the description below obviously finish this epic video first and then go and watch that [Music] [Music] do [Music] [Music] [Music] i find nice natural chipping is one of the most difficult areas of weathering to help me get this right i use packing foam to gently apply metallic paint onto the most raised areas of the seat and footwell the important part is not to have too much paint on the sponge so you don't get blobs that's not a medical term but the less on the spoon spawners the better [Music] to add some depth to the cockpit i use two enamel washes these won't damage the paint since that's acrylic lacquer so the thinners in these won't take the paint with it when it comes to application [Music] [Music] next up was to lighten the raised details with ammo's oil brusher colour buff this was applied using a dry brush to pick out the most raised details which would appear like a highlight compared to the darker areas we just made with the washes the same was done on the engine using neutral grey the point of this technique is to firstly use the base colour as the main then add darker and lighter tones to create more depth or a perception of depth at least giving more contrast between the tones used to create the effect [Music] so [Music] so [Music] for better alignment i always sand off the location pins moulded onto the wings this gives more range of movement and to align the top and bottom sections since the pins are usually out [Music] [Music] [Music] the build was relatively straightforward on this apart from the lower wing to fuselage section which will need a bit of attention later on but first i want to show you this this fantastic creation is a model stand designed and printed by me to help me and you of course it's available on my website thenerd.com and it's been designed to keep the model stable when working on those masterpieces all three heads are fully adjustable both in height and range and the layout is also fully adjustable meaning it'll hold anything from a 172 spitfire a 148 jet or even 132 models like this in the box you get three heads shown in this video as well as one more to help building with jet models more specifically all of the details are on my website the innernerd.com and there's a link in the description so you can head there with but a click of a button with the main build complete i started work on filling my crack there was quite a gap between the air intake and lower wing too much to tackle with filler so i went rotting instead [Music] after that the smaller gaps could be filled with my go-to filler perfect plastic putty i apply this generously then remove with the damp cotton bud to leave a neat finish [Music] the sanding removes some of the panel lines from the plastic so put those back using the cmk razor saw i used before in the cockpit modifications [Music] to highlight the rescribing i used black enamel wash which would sink into the details this way it's easier to see what needs to be worked on before i lay down any primer [Music] good job i did this because i'd forgotten the rivets i added these back in with this pointy thing and also a rivet tool from sps [Music] moving on to primer i used mr surfacer 1500 in black using the same 5050 mix i did for the cockpit applying it nice and lightly on 12 psi i use the wet coat to help the self-leveling thinner work its magic [Music] as expected the primer revealed some flaws in the build the main one was this joined so i tackled that with a mix of scraping and sanding until i'd work it smooth enough for re-primer and paint [Music] i'd had the idea of pre-weathering this model using a textured base coat i've done something similar before on my su-22 fitter build and that came out nice i used heavily thinned like 70 thinner white paint and applied it in the boundaries of each panel line the uneven nature of this base coat will cause the overlying paint to have various tones as the primer seeps through it turns out that this method was a little wasted on this particular model because of how i weathered it later on but if you're going for an almost factory fresh look this is a good technique to get a slight bit of discoloration in the main paint scheme [Music] i've been asked in the past to show my skin in a bit more detail so here it goes i only use tummy masking tape and you can get that in various widths i tend to use 20 and six mil to get nice square ends i cut it on a mark cutting mat and use the lines as a guide when putting it onto the model i try and keep it to one piece if possible this is more important on camouflage schemes or where two colours meet because several pieces may not always align perfectly straight but for something like this engine several parts might be necessary to get all the parts masked sufficiently [Music] there's not really much else to say but a top tip would be always to use a sharp blade a blunt blade will almost certainly tear the tape and you'll get a rough edge [Music] to start the painting i begin with the lightest colour if not that the area which is easiest to mask on this model the first was both of these the white on the wing tips in order not to destroy the base colour work i apply this in thin layers taking note of the coverage after each pass so that the mottled effect could be just about visible after the final coat next up was the underside colour of rlm65 this was the second lightest colour on the model and i needed this to grow the fuselage to blend in the top colours of the camouflage properly [Music] for the camouflage pattern i lightly marked out the separation lines in real time i'd must be on this point anyway so if i went a little further than needed it will easily be covered up [Music] [Music] to reduce the checkerboard effects of the base coat i filled in the camouflage area more randomly after the first few coats this broke up the black line and therefore the grid pattern underneath [Music] the final colour of the scheme was rlm71 this is quite a bit darker than the other colours used so i have to be careful not to lay this on too thick or the base coat will be invisible [Music] i freehanded the model effect on the size of the fuselage by being random with the airbrush and consistent on the trigger the color can be built up in levels making some appear bolder than others making for the faded effect [Music] [Music] [Music] metallic colours are best over a gloss black base coat so here i use mystical gx2 followed by ak's extreme metal steel i've seen pictures of these exhausts fully encrusted in rust but that was a bit too excessive for me but to add the burnished effect onto the stacks i dry brush citadel runelord brass onto the most raised areas of the exhaust [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] the main painting was now complete and time to add the decals but instead of using the decals for the insignias i wanted to paint them to do this i created my own masking set using the kit deed calzer template designed on the computer and caught my silhouette machine these will be ready to apply straight onto the model working out which mask was applied first was way more tricky than i had imagined but after i got the order correct they were simple enough to do [Music] [Music] to remove any rough edges i carefully went over each insignia with 3 000 grit sanding sponge which leveled out any raised spots moving on to the decals i tried something crazy i got a lot of comments saying that the gloss coat is unnecessarily and only adds time and layers to the build with no further explanation i didn't really understand why but looking at the finish from the ak real colour paints you can see that they're very smooth and also a bit glossy well more satin but good enough to lay decals on so with no gloss coat at all i apply the decals with mark set strong from tamiya and you know what it worked there were still the raised edges from the larger decals but removing the gloss coat wouldn't help with this anyway the best way to get rid of this witness is to gently sand it away with 3000 grit sanding sponge i'd say one of the biggest mistakes i made with this bill was leaving the canopy off i'd done this in the effort to reduce the amount of paint applied to it and therefore the thickness build up against the tape but as it turned out the fit wasn't all that when i come to fit it at this stage i had to do some careful filling and sanding to get the part aligned with the fuselage and it would have been better just to apply the canopy at the building stage but anyway painting done and now it's time for my favorite bit the art i mean weathering and i'm going to be doing that exclusively with enamel washes and oil paints so if you're new to oils or want to know more this could be a good bit to stick around for the first thing to note is that i'll be using one type of thinner throughout this entire process and that's called white spirit or you could use turpentine as well they do the same thing also spot at the bottom of the screen is a note of what i'm using at that point as i flick back into from wash or oil to thinner regularly so what started with here is almost neutral wash and that's put straight over the paint which has a matte to satin finish as mentioned before the paint is acrylic lacquer base so anything oil base i put over the top won't affect it also the kind of matte satin finish helps with the oil grip a little more than it would on a gloss finish and that's helping me keep the in the areas i want without it running away once the oil wash was dry to the touch i got back over the area again but this time the brush now only contains thinner with the brush only dampened within it i can agitate the oil and manipulate where it's concentrated i pushed the body of the wash into the panel lines as this where i saw it on the references the references by the way are linked in the description below where i have them saved to a pinterest board for the white area i used a different colour which was more grey than the beige of the neutral wash so that it didn't look too dusty i did the same technique in this area waiting for the oil to dry then agitating into position with white spirit and a brush i think the blue dirt wash was a bit too dark for this white so i softened the effect further with a dry cotton bud nothing is we needed here as the cotton bud could take off the excess oil since it wasn't fully dry but only dry to the touch up next was something i wanted to create for a while but not really known how when i was looking at references not only for this model but for almost all of them actually they have a grittiness to them which i could never capture it's a small but noticeable grain to their texture as the weather in use tints to paint in different ways to replicate this i mix a colour similar but not exactly the same as the area i want to affect using oil paints then apply with some packing foam i dab the colour onto the model since the two colours of this scheme are different i masked off each area as a work to contain it i was careful not to apply too much since when it came to blending it i didn't want to repaint the entire area but to leave behind the grittiness i was talking about [Music] when it came to blending the oil later into the main paint i used a small amount of enamel thinner just like i did in the previous technique this time i kept the oil within the boundaries of each panel breaking up and dissipating the oil ready for the next step [Music] once that had dried out which didn't take long since i used very little thinner i went back over the area with a clean sponge this time and just softened the choppiness of the oil blooms because it looked too raw straight from the previous step this was a technique i wasn't quite used to at this point but as the video goes on the process gets a bit more fluid [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] with the top surface camouflage gritted i'm going to call it i picked out some staining using ammo's engine grind wash and although it says engine on it you can use it elsewhere and i thought a good color to contrast against the rlm o2 areas on the wing i applied the washing segments and left to go touch dry after a few minutes it was ready to blend with some white spirit enamel thinner doing this live on the model rather than a complete wash picks out areas more effectively than just covering the entire model the same color wash four washes can be useful but tend to dye the model with a different colour whereas doing it this way allows you to really concentrate on the area at a time [Music] calling this part of the weather incomplete i hope you can see the grittiness that i keep banging on about the colour of the camouflage is now broken up into lots of various shades within each section now it's time to add more detail weathering and deepen that effect now that we have a road map to follow from this stage but first we need to save as to do this i seal the oils in with vms satin varnish so that any further oil work we do won't be affected because it's sealed in with a layer of acrylic clear the satin clear coat was applied very thin just to cover the oil work i'd done so about 30 minutes later i could carry on working first i added some stain spots using ak real colours 6rp black which was heavily thin with their own branded thinner and i use the same mix to apply the exhaust soot trails to get a feathered effect i started the street close up to the model to get a more concentrated spray pattern then the further away from the front i got i pulled back away from the model to soften the density of the spray [Music] [Music] i noticed on one of my reference photos in particular that the area where the pilot accesses the cockpit got very mucked up to deepen the weathering already there i applied spots of ammo's oil brushes starship filth to that area to blend this in i used enamel thinner again directly on the model to dissipate the oils and make it bloom i moved the resulting mix around to get rid of any outspots from what i applied straight from the oil brusher since i covered quite a large area with a high contrast colour it took more than one pass to get it to look right so i let it dry in between and went at it again with some fresh thinners [Music] next i added some streaks using raw oil paints i started the street using a flat brush which was dampened with enamel thinner and carefully dragged the oil spot in the direction of airflow with the top side done i flipped the model over and adjusted the model stand to suit then went to work using the same techniques and methods as i did up top [Music] to get a larger area of staining i laid down a base coat of a more yellow brown version of the rlm 65 blue made from oil paint i apply this in the same way as the grittiness and blended with the dry sponge ready for the following effect after sealing that in with a layer of vms matte clay varnish or the save as button as i like to call it i laid down an area of pure enamel thinner nothing else mixed in whilst the layer of thinners was still active i added spots of ammo stress engine oil wash and blended that in live on the model similar to what i did on the cockpit access area on the wing above [Music] [Music] again because this was a high contrast i had to do it in several passes to get it blended sufficiently and not look like a big oily blob no one wants a big oily blob especially on the bottom more washes of different colours were then applied in various spots underneath to add the overall effect of use and dirtiness more concentrated areas of fresh engine oil were then applied along panel lines to show more recent leaks and spills [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] spatters were also added by flicking it off a paintbrush using a toothpick i added some more extra thinner to this so that the splats wouldn't be too intense in color [Music] [Music] okay so that's all the oil weathering done i almost managed to make 100 oil wetting but do need some dust here i use vms european brown earth pigment to apply the dried mud onto the wheel arches and tires i don't use any pigment fixer for this because the matte finish helps the pigment grip [Music] with all of the weathering now finished i move on to the final assembly i used various vms super glues for this but the most common was extra thin [Music] for the open canopy i use resin super glue and although this isn't resin the consistency was good for me to safely apply the clear part and position it before it went dry the last thing to fit into position was the antenna i used some old fishing line i found in the shed for this not sure what weight it is but the thickness looked about right for the model scale i fixed this in place with extra thin super glue and used ca accelerator spray so i didn't have to hold my hand steady for too long and that's it gang we've made it to the end i hope you enjoyed the video and learnt something from it maybe you'll be seeing this model again sometime in the future as i want to make a smallish dior armor with this is the centerpiece you can see some of my inspiration for that project using the link of my pinterest board in the description below this link also contains reference images i use to make this model otherwise enjoy the presentation i'm the inner nerd and this was edward's 132 scale messerschmitt bf109e3 [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] also a big thank you to my patreon family if you are one you'll see your name here if you're not then there's a link in the description below if you like this video don't forget to hit the like subscribe and i think there's even a tip button now along there somewhere anyway hit all the buttons of that nature don't forget if you want a model stand featured in the video visit my website the innernerd.com and thanks i'll see you in the next one where i build a p51 mustang [Music]

Channel: The Inner Nerd Scale Modelling

Views: 133,799

Keywords: the, inner, nerd, plasmo, weathering, plastic, model, wash, miniatures, background, techniques, tanks, review, scalextric, scale, aircraft, art, how, make, airbrushing, beginners, painting, hasegawa, tamiya, revell, modelling, tips, tutorial, hobby, tiger, sdkfz, 251, he, 111, f4u, su, 33, red, arrows, 1/35, 1/72, 1/48, railway, airfix, kits, spitfire, quick, build, lancaster, trains, airplanes, building, war, workshop, military, cars, scenery, dragon, mustang, corsair, t-34, b-25, falcon, p-47, bf 109, phantom, b-17, miniature, asmr, messerchmitt, bf109, 1/32

Id: QnAjS0o_DKQ

Length: 40min 50sec (2450 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 09 2022