Eduard BF-109G-6 Hermann Graf 1:48 scale Full Build

foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] Brett here with Hammerhead model making with a brand new episode for you today and I am excited I'm actually really excited for this one um this is Edward's bf-109 G6 and I will be doing this one up as Hermann Graf's aircraft the one with the red tulip paint job on the nose and um really really this was a very very fun project last year on my channel I had built the Tamiya bf-109 G6 and so I was really curious to be able to compare this one to the Tamia one um so you know 109s is quite a um a lot of people are passionate about the 109 and there's a lot of 109 kits out there and they all have their strengths and weaknesses and so I was really kind of curious to see how this one was going to fare against the Tamiya kit and um one of the things that I knew I was going to be doing from the beginning was painting the tulip pattern on the nose instead of using the decals mainly because I didn't want to have to match the decal color to a paint color to paint onto the spinner the propeller Hub so uh really I went into this one thing I you know I'm gonna really try my hand at some masking here and uh it's got a fairly St the rest of the 109 paint job is fairly standard on here but nonetheless it's it was one that I wanted to tackle again I had used some AK paints for the Tamiya kit and on this one I was going to be using Vallejo paints which I'm I'm much more familiar and comfortable with so um yeah it's just this was just a project that I was really excited about and you know right out of the bat let me just tell you Edward does not disappoint in this kit um from the actual from a construction standpoint engineering um I can't really find any fault with this kit um the fit was fantastic the engineering was great the parts breakdown was great um I mean if I had to like force myself to find a fault in the construction engineering the kit it would be the way that you build up the wheel wells and you'll see that later on it's really very small parts very fiddly um but honestly it was just it was a great kid it fell together the the photo etch that's included with the kit it was the Edward trophy pack so you get a lot of photoetch in there um was good photo wet that made sense so it's not like they were just throwing in photo wedge for the sake of throwing in photo wedge like I legitimately feel like it added some good value to the cockpit um I I you could definitely build this kit without the photo watch and it would still look great there was a lot of good detail in the plastic itself but the photo watch just really kind of pushes it over the edge into like this is just a superb kit um and I just I had so much fun doing this kit so so what you've been seeing here is just building up the cockpit Parts uh you can see I'm doing the photoetch for the rudder pedals uh quite a you know intricate little piece but uh it really really looks good once it's done um if you're interested what I'm spraying on there is what's called zip kicker so it's an accelerant for the super glue helps it basically instantly set um I will occasionally use this when when I feel like the part is needed to you know it's gonna have the potential to fall off or break or something so I'll use that that zip kick or that instant set to get that that glued secure good and tight um looping over the the uh the bootstraps on the rudder pedals there I mean just the detail on this is fantastic so it it's hard to complain about that because it once you're done it looks great and even though you you know you're really not going to see a lot of this once once you're done because it's kind of the the cockpit on the 109 is so small that um it will be hard to see but you can you know you get you get your flashlight down there you'll you'll be able to see it um but it's one of those things where I I'm of the mindset where I know it's there and and I like to have the practice and I like to have the satisfaction of knowing that hey I I painted that I assembled it and I think it looks pretty cool um unique fact about the water nine is they so the one of the main fuel tank is actually right behind the pilot sits right behind the pilot and the fuel line runs in through the cockpit and there's actually a small clear port on the fuel line for the pilot to be able to manage or monitor the fuel flow and uh so that's what I was just doing there is I was masking off the part that's going to be clear and then so I can paint the rest here I'm just adding some high gloss finish on the instrument dial faces uh to kind of let those those shine out and uh this is one of the first kits that I've been that I used Mr surfacer on is a primer instead of my normal Rust-Oleum primer and um I overall I'm happy I after this I kind of figured out what the what the proper ratio between primer and thinner is and so I'm much happier with it now I was still experimenting a little bit with this kit but but now I'm I'm really happy with the primer and it's I think it's going to be my new go-to primer um so you can see I did base coat the cockpit in aluminum and then using some liquid mask to mask off some areas that I want to to be you know chipped paint um and then we can start laying down the the base color here for the German gray um for the cockpit so again this is just Vallejo and uh I I like the color I think it I think it it's a good representation um of the proper German color and I'm sure someone's going to tell me that there's a better color out there and and honestly I'd love to hear that I would I'm always trying to improve my my techniques and and and accurize my my pink colors so here what I ended up doing was just adding a little bit of white to that base German gray and kind of highlighting some of the panels here just to create a little bit of variation because there's there's not a lot of deep detail in in the cockpits like in at least on the side walls you know you don't have lots of ribs and exposed ribs and things like that that you would have in like a a Mustang cockpit or a or Corsair cockpit so I just to help create some some visual interest in there I did I sprayed those highlights and um now we're just picking out some of the smaller details in in acrylic colors and um just again my stand my go-to for brush painting is it is Vallejo and probably always will be Vallejo um I've been using Vallejo brush paints since probably around 2010 and they're just they're great colors they they're good accurate colors and they paint well so here I'm just giving everything a little bit of a dry brush this will kind of help pick out those raised details and uh and again create a little bit more visual contrast since this cockpit is pretty dark and uh it just kind of helps pick out some of those smaller details that would otherwise not be seen so you can see that the paint here is still kind of lumpy that's because I still have that liquid mask on there um so that's why I like the seat and the the back the rest of the seat look kind of lumpy like that but uh don't worry I'll I will be removing that soon and you'll get to see how how nicely that looks and um so here I'm using this this little rubber it's not an eraser but it's kind of similar in composition and uh but it's really kind of it's sticky so it helps it grabs that liquid mask and pulls it up and so now you can start seeing that aluminum chipping showing up underneath the main paint and I was quite pleased with how this turned out and uh that's I think it looks pretty convincing it's I think it's always better when you have the ability to uh when you're doing some kind of chipped paint to actually have you know the the Metallica color underneath and then your whatever paint you're putting on top of it so that you can then ship back down to that aluminum color it just it just makes it that much more real as opposed to painting over your base color with a metallic color but I understand that there are just times when it's it's difficult or not possible so when it is possible that's what I like to try and do so pretty pleased with how this came out so we did our our gloss coat and you're going to get sick of seeing this this Mig wash but it is my favorite and so we're just kind of applying this selectively more as a pin wash than kind of an overall wash um to really kind of get into those nooks and crannies and and this will be the great contrast to that dry brushing where where the dry brushing is kind of picking out the extreme high points with a very light color here we're going to be going into the very you know low points that the recesses and crevices with a very dark color so with basically with our base coat of the gray this highlight airbrush coat and then the dry brush and then the the wash we've really kind of created four levels of of contrast within the cockpit um so now the cockpit is done we can start adding in some of the the pre-colored photoetch that Edwards supplies so this is going to be a lot of our instrument faces and and things like that in the cockpit um and I'm just gluing these on with some super glue uh just to make sure that they stay nice and and uh and solid in there you can also use uh PVA glue as well um the the upside to using PVA glue is that it's a little bit easier to remove if you see like if for example you get the piece of photo Etch in the wrong position it's a lot easier to remove and reposition it um but it's not as secure and the drying time is much higher than it is with with super glue so you know whatever works for you I prefer to use a super glue so here we're just doing the seat belts and kind of what I like to do with the seat belts with Edward's photo watch seat belts you you do one attachment point wait for the glue to fully cure and then you can start bending it and and kind of getting some some try at least trying to attempt to get some natural fold into that photo etch I know it's hard and I know a lot of people don't like the photo wet seat belt specifically because it's hard to get a good like natural fabric look to it um but I still like it and I I think it's still better than either having nothing or using a decal so I'm just kind of gently pushing it into position and and gluing it down and um so now that everything's done we can uh finish off the cockpit with a matte coat and um kind of seal in all of our work there the matte coat will help take off that shine here here you can see I'm installing that fuel line uh this this part was a little tricky just to get it right um but we got there eventually and uh kind of a neat detail so now the cockpit's done we can start moving on to assembly of the rest of the fuselage and um so we start that off with putting in the exhaust stubs these just fit in and the the fit of the cockpit into the into the fuselage is amazing like I mean it just it fits so well and it is such a positive fit and I was just I was blown away and and to me is credit theirs is also extremely good it fits really well considering that they have a pretty much a full engine in there as well um but this is this is great so I've got the fuselage taped up to kind of hold it together while I start applying glue around the fuselage and there are a few when depending on which um paint Scheme you're doing there are a few little lumps and bumps that you might need to remove um from the fuselage here's what I was mentioning about the the wheel wells these really fiddly parts that have to go together to create the kind of the the boxed in portion of the of the wheel well um it took me a couple tries I did get it I tried it one way where I assembled it a separate from the wing and then I tried another way where I tried to assemble it into the wing and put it all together either one was was um equally annoying But ultimately it goes together well and it fits together good so we can view the glue the wing halves together I do like that the the wingtip portion is supplied on the upper surface and so the actual glue joint is underneath the wing as opposed to around the out Outer Edge I prefer that um sanding and filling was a was was uh kept to a minimum there really wasn't a lot of it that I needed to do uh I think the biggest the biggest portion that needed filling and sanding was the underside of the uh of the nose there um but other than that it was it was really painless construction for the fuselage so here you can just see I'm adding all the the the various bits to the to the fuselage the the tail assembly is really interesting because it comes with different versions of the tail um and different versions of the rudder again depending on which paint Scheme you're doing but everything just really just locks together I mean you almost don't even need glue for some of those parts a little bit of sanding required on the Leading Edge of the wing here um but again because the fit was so good there was absolutely no filler needed and just minimal sanding to get that in and um the the Edward kit does allow you to do uh to pose all the flying surfaces so you have your flaps ailerons and slats that you can do either up or down you can pose the ailerons in whatever orientation you want you can pose the slats and you know either extended or retracted um just note that when the bf-109 was on the ground powered down or not even not sorry powered down but just on the ground the slats were essentially spring-loaded uh in the forward position and it was it was actually the the uh the air resistance while the plane was flying that would push push the slats back into the wing into more of a into the closed position so if if you are trying to do a a 109 on the ground just note that this Flats should the slats should be extended um putting the flame guard or the exhaust guard on that side of the uh of the fuselage that's a photoetch part I did add some brake lines this was pretty much the only thing that I added to this kit was to add some brake lines to it um there really is very little else that you need to modify on this kit um because this is the profi pack it does come with pre-cut masks and they they were flawless they worked exactly like they were supposed to and uh could not be happier with those so you just have to make sure to get the uh mask in the right position um I did there this part here I did struggle a little a little with a little bit um mainly because I originally didn't understand that there there is a kind of a strut down the center of that part of the window but in the on the aircraft is actually inside the window not on the exterior so I was able to get that correct there are a few photo etch parts that go into the front windscreen and the the canopy here the so just make sure you don't miss those especially if you're doing the open uh you know an open canopy um we get the Gun Site uh installed prior to installing the canopies um so again this is one of those areas where um I replace the actual gunsight glass with some clear plastic a little bit more in scale thickness and usually doesn't have a seam Line running right down the middle of it so um I I guess that and the brake lines are the two things that I added to the kit um I am temporarily attaching the canopy with some white PVA glue um I do this mainly because I don't necessarily like trying to mask off that opening uh with tape I use I find that it usually doesn't stay down very well um so that's why I use the white PVA glue you'll notice here that I've already primed the aircraft and painted the nose white uh apparently I lost the footage for that part but basically what I've I've pre-prime or pre-painted the nose white uh in preparation for a lot of the other colors going to come underneath and you can see I've already started masking that so there's going to be a white stripe a yellow stripe and then the red of the of the tulip pattern but also underneath the cowling where the oil cooler is there's going to be a spot of yellow there and I've also painted white on the tail as well because the white was painted white or the tail was painted white obviously so here I've masked off a yellow stripe so now you can see there's two layers of of striping there and now I'm painting the red part and um interestingly enough yellow is a good undercoat for red you can also do white as well white is also a good undercoat for red especially the the Vallejo Reds tend to be really translucent so it's hard to paint Vallejo red over like a black base for example but if you're painting over white or yellow it will usually turn out pretty good yellow honestly being preferred at least by me as a good undercoat to Red so now the Red's done I can actually start painting the rest of the aircraft so here I've I've masked off the whole nose and we've started painting the uh the body here um normally when I'm painting an aircraft especially if there's dark colors on top light colors on the bottom I will usually tend to do the the lightest color first starting at the bottom on this one I chose to do the upper side surfaces first mainly because um the the underside color actually wraps around to the side of the fuselage and I just find it easier to paint the side and the bottoms together and and mask off the top just my personal preference but just want to let you know that's what I was doing here um I I was running into some adhesion problems with with the paint on this build and I haven't quite figured out why that was because for the most part I usually have pretty good luck with with Vallejo acrylics so there are a few times here where I actually had to go back and and touch up some parts were paint lifted such as here for example um and it was lifting off the primer and it wasn't the primer lifting off the plastic so I I think it just might be that I wasn't I wasn't leaving the the paint to cure fully um so I think that's more my fault than anything um at first I thought it was because I was using a new primer but I I don't necessarily believe it's that so um you might see me touching up a few places here and there so uh but like I said uh so now we're painting the the underside color and um because it wraps around to the fuselage sides I just found it easier to to paint it this way and you'll also notice that I didn't do a lot of I I didn't do my normal like model coat underneath with with uh you know appreciating stuff um I find that difficult to do with camouflage patterns uh so in this case I just I I decided not to do that so here we're we're painting the models on this on the motling on the side of the aircraft um this is something I still struggle with a little bit but uh I'm quite pleased with how it turned out on on this particular aircraft and uh I think it works pretty well also you can see that I've removed the masking off the nose and you can see that really bright pattern there really love how just how colorful this aircraft is another unique thing with this aircraft is it had this weird Scout pattern where the underside color wraps around the front of the Leading Edge of the wing almost onto the top of it so that's uh that's what I'm doing here I just found it easier to do it this way than than to mask it off ahead of time so with all the major painting done we can move on to our gloss coat and in preparation for decals and weathering so here I'm using the All-Clad Aqua gloss this has just been my favorite gloss coat hands down so far it dries quickly it goes on pretty nicely and it it provides a great finish and and base for decals and weathering and really liked it so just just to let you know this is an older release of this kit so it has Edward's older decals so not the new kind where you have to you know try and remove the carrier film don't get me started on that yet these were very thin you can actually see that I kind of folded over that that cross there I got it fixed but these decals are just phenomenal so nice I really love working with Edward's older decals and they they really just settled into the the panel lines and and one of the things about the Edward kit that's I I think is kind of a advantage over the Tamiya kit is it's got full rivets and and so these decals really just sunk into all those rivets and uh very very nice and very pleased with it um Hermann Graf was an avid football player soccer for the US people and so this this emblem that he he has on his aircraft that's actually his football team emblem and so kind of a kind of a neat little uh little you know bit of history there um and so now we're just putting the Salva set on um over the decals this will help get them to suck down and conform to all those little nooks and crannies uh solve a set I I will if if you do choose to use it just know that it is it's pretty strong um so always test it first on on some spare decal and and paint to make sure that it doesn't it I mean I've I've had decals in the past that have just melted with this stuff so just be aware of that um so now we're just doing a nice Gunk panel wash over the whole aircraft um uh you'll notice that I kind of do this in stages I'll do I'll basically do one side of the aircraft and then the other because that gives me somewhere to hold on to while I'm doing it without smudging everything and um but basically you apply it wait for it to dry usually takes about 30 minutes depending on how heavily you applied it and then you can gently wipe it off this this process obviously works better over a gloss coat if you do it over a matte coat you really kind of risk staining your your the paintwork underneath but over a well-applied gloss coat then you get really good results here um so here you can really see the difference between the left wing which is uh which has not been the wash applied and then the right wing which had the wash applied and really said to see the difference there uh this just helps give it a good layer of of grime and dirt without necessarily going super heavy with into the world of weathering um and you'll as we progress in the video see that I didn't necessarily go super heavy on the weathering on this aircraft um but uh it needed some obviously so now that our our wash is applied and the decals are on we can matte coat the whole aircraft um if you if you are going to be doing oil weathering for example at this stage I have found that oils um go better over a matte coat than they do over a gloss coat so um that would kind of be the the next stage of weathering I will do a little bit of of weathering especially on the underside surface with with oils here I'm doing the exhaust so basically what I'm I'm kind of kind of stippling on some some black oil paint and then we'll go in with a wider softer brush and kind of help blend that in uh give it a little bit more of a softer Edge and gradient and then I'll eventually mix in some dark brown as well to kind of give that dirty look to the exhaust I like I like the exhaust pattern on the 109s where it just comes up and over the wing right at that Wing root um very unique very very interesting visually on the underside um the process that I'm using here is basically I I get the the underside surface wet with um with mineral spirits or some kind of odorless thinner for your oil paints and then you kind of dab in uh thinned oil paint and this will kind of help give it a good patchy dirty look um and and kind of just throw in some random areas of of dirt and Grime on there without it being very strong so it ends up being really subtle but I think it makes a huge difference and now what I'm going to be doing is is spot applying some dark brown oil paints to start creating some some oil streaks here um so I applying some oil streaks directly underneath the oil cooler you you would have a lot of oil leaking out of here depending on the maintenance level of the aircraft um just don't make sure not to put it too far forward on the oil cooler cowl there because um the uh the front portion of that cow was open and the actual radiator was further back into the cowling so you know sometimes you just gotta you gotta stop to think okay now where would the oil logically be coming from and and kind of do base your um weathering off of that or obviously even better find some good reference photos so here I'm just adding a lot more oil staining to the underside surface areas where it would accumulate and collect um which is to give it a nice dirty look there so once that's done we can start applying all of our really small bits to wrap up this build very nice positive connection points for the landing gear that sets the proper angle and dihedral of those of the landing gear which is pretty distinct for the 109 here we're just adding a little bit of paint shipping like I mentioned before if you can do the paint over the the metallic color but in this case it's it's it can be quite difficult so here I'm just applying metallic color over the actual paint job but you can really see how those those rivets pop with that wash there I think it just looks great a lot of good detail in there and uh we'll do some chipping on the cowling here on the spinner prop not a whole lot again I was trying I didn't want to go super heavy on the weathering but um obviously Hermann Graf had a quite an impressive um Victory tally by the end of the war he flew multiple aircraft he flew the 109 he flew the 190. in fact he has a really uh colorful 190 as well with that tulip pattern on the front which I'll probably end up building at some point so obviously his aircraft wouldn't be in pristine condition um here we are attaching the antenna line so this is that nylon thread that's stretchy uh I love this stuff for doing antennas just applying it with super glue so here's our completed kit um threw it on a base with some uh Airfield accessories and a pilot here representing Hermann Graf himself the figure is from a company called Aero bonus they do resin figures in both 148 scale and one 72nd scale and it's they're kind of my favorite uh figure company at this point for doing pilot figures so um this was just absolutely a blast of a kit it was a lot of fun to put together I think it's I I'm gonna have to give this one to the Edward kit over the Tamia kit just because I think that um the riveting detail the ease of construction it's it's just phenomenal and uh it's hard to beat in my opinion the Tamia Kit's great the engine is nice the the engineering is great on the Tammy kit this one just edges it out just barely in my opinion anyways thanks for watching stay tuned subscribe if you're not and we'll see on the next video

Channel: Hammerhead Model Making

Views: 11,381

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Id: iMsc_I5IJa0

Length: 30min 33sec (1833 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 20 2022