- Hey, my name is Matt
Johnson with whoismatt.com. And today I'm gonna be showing you my run and gun filmmaking settings
for the Sony A7SIII and FX3 which will give you access
to all of the settings that you need at your fingertips with very minimal need
to dive into the menus. So if you shoot weddings or documentaries or basically anything
where you need to be able to shoot very fast, this video is for you. If you want to save time, I've actually created a settings file for my A7SIII that you
can download for free at the link in the video description. And you can then load
that onto your camera and skip having to watch
the rest of this video because you will immediately have all of the settings that
I'm going to be talking about in this video. Now this video is the first
part of a two part series and we'll walk you through
all of the menu settings you need to dial in to
get this camera working as fast as possible for filmmaking. I've split it up because going through the menu takes quite a while. The second video in this
series comparatively will be much faster and we'll cover how to set up the cameras
mode dial custom menu, custom buttons and function menu. So you can access all the camera's most important settings very quickly. You are going to love that video because it will basically
keep you from diving into these cameras menus 95% of the time. I will link to that video down below. For now though, we need to
talk about the A7SIII menu. So grab your camera and let's get started. First off, make sure your
A7SIII is in video mode by selecting the filmstrip
here on the mode dial, the A7SIII will customize
its menus depending on whether you are in photo or video mode and considering this video
is basically titled run and gun filmmaking
settings for the A7SIII , we need to make sure it's in video mode. Press the menu button
now and you'll notice that the first menu icon is a
gray star that says My Menu. This is a completely customizable menu that will let you quickly access
the settings you need most. My next video will cover
setting up this menu as well as the custom buttons, mode
dial and function menu. In this video we'll start by skipping down to the red camera icon that says shooting and go through this menu. Press right and let's get
started with image quality. You'll see that the first
two options that we have are file format and movie settings. I've actually already created a video that's gonna walk you
through all the file formats bit rates et cetera that you
should use for this camera. All into that video up in the corner and down in the description. In short though, I usually prefer to shoot with XAVC S 4k and for movies settings, I prefer to have my record setting set to the highest bit rate that
I can as well as 4:2:2 10 bit. We're actually gonna
customize these settings in the next video in a way that
you will never have to dive into the menu to change your file format or bit rate et cetera. All of that will be
handled by the mode dial. And it's gonna be awesome. Moving on down to S&Q settings, this stands for slow and quick and looking at the mode dial here, you'll see that it says S&Q. So if you want to use these settings you'll changed your
camera to the S&Q setting on the mode dial. In essence what S&Q does is that normally whenever you set the A7SIII to record in a higher frame rate such as 60 frames per second
or 120 frames per second, the camera will still record
that footage at normal speed meaning that you have to take
it into your editing software and then slow it down
to make it slow motion. S&Q on the other hand
will allow you to record at a high frame rate and
then have the camera slow that footage down in camera
to a slower frame rate like 24 or 30 frames per second et cetera. This sounds cool because
it saves you a step whenever you're recording
later but there's a big caveat. Namely, whenever you
choose to record an S&Q, the camera will not record audio, I guess Sony thinks, oh, the camera doesn't need audio
because it's in slow motion. But for me as someone that
really prioritizes recording in camera audio so that
way I have a scratch track in case I need to use any
ambient audio in my film or heaven forbid, one of my mics dies, at least I still have
on camera audio to use. So I would essentially
recommend never using S&Q mode and always recording your
footage in normal video mode as you're recording audio as well. There is only one situation that I would recommend using S&Q mode. And that is if you want to record in the XAV CSI video format which is the highest quality format this camera can record internally. And if you want to record
at 120 frames per second. This frame rate and format pushes this camera to its absolute limit and you have to record an S&Q mode if you want to do it. You also have to have
CF express Type A card, SD cards are not fast
enough and will not work. Of course you won't record audio either. So I would only choose this
if you absolutely need it. Moving on, we have proxy
settings and this is really great if you have a lower-powered
computer because this camera connects you record two
videos simultaneously. It can record to the high
quality, full frame rate, bit rate and resolution video that you
are going to want to export as well as a much lower
quality proxy video file that is lower resolution a bit rate and can be played much more
easily by your computer. Most modern video software
will then enable you to use both these video files when editing. Let me know if you want me to make a video about these proxy settings and
how best to work with them. For now though, we need to move on. Moving down here to APS-C S35 shooting, you'll notice that my
option is grayed out. If you are recording in 4k, this option will not be available to you but if you're recording in 1080p, you will be able to select this option and change these settings. In essence, if you want to
use a lens that is not made for a full frame camera on the A7SIII , you can select this
APS-C S35 shooting mode and it will crop in on the sensor to enable you to use that lens. The con is that because the sensor has such a low megapixel count, it will not work when recording in 4k. It doesn't have enough pixels captain. So, sorry, also I don't know
if you've got that reference but if you should use
1080p, you can use this, if you're in 4k, like I usually
shoot in, you won't need it. We can skip lens compensation. I always leave all these settings on auto and it works great. All right, we are on
to subheading two now, media, first up you're
going to see format. And if you've ever used the camera, this is pretty self-explanatory. That's how you format your memory cards so you can use it in the camera. I always recommend
formatting your memory cards before a shoot so they're ready to go. Moving down, we have
record media settings. And oh yes, this is very important. One of the main perks
of Sony's newer cameras is that they have dual SD card slots meaning that they're able to record to two cards simultaneously. This is fantastic for redundancy. If you've ever used any
form of digital storage, a USB flash drive, SD
card, hard drive et cetera, you will know that it
is not really a question of if something will fail but when. So by you having the option
to record to two memory cards at the same time, in the event that one of
those memory cards fails you still have your precious footage on the other memory card. Because of that, if you film
weddings or documentaries or any other one take events, this is one of the most
important settings in this camera to make sure you have turned on. For recording mode,
you're gonna wanna go down and change it from
standard to simultaneous with the little film strip. This is gonna tell the camera
to record any video files that you shoot to both
memory cards in the camera. Yes, we'll have to spend
more on memory cards because you now need to have them but that cost is completely worth it to me and I would highly recommend doing it, down below, we now have
recover image database. This is great if you ever have
a memory card fail or mess up you can insert into the camera and select recovery image database and it may help you recover the card, display media info will tell you how much recording time
you have left on your card but that's redundant because
the back of the camera will already tell you that. Subheading three now. We've got file, file
settings and for file number you're gonna want to make sure that you have it set to series. This is very useful if
you have multiple cameras that you're working
with because in the past also in the cameras would start with file names like C0001. So even if you had multiple cameras they would all have the same file name and that could make things very difficult whenever it comes time to edit because you can't tell
which camera is which. So by having your file
number set to series, it's constantly going to count up and the odds are that your cameras are not gonna have the same file names. You can also customize things even more by going down to file name
format and changing it to title and then you can change
the title name settings and you can customize the
name of your file name. So you could have one
camera that you only use for a wedding ceremony for example, you could change the
title name of its files to ceremony camera one and that way, when it comes time to edit, you can immediately tell at a glance, oh, that's my ceremony camera. We've made the subheading
for shooting mode. Up first we have exposure mode and this is very important. You're going to want to make sure that your exposure mode
is set to manual exposure. We did not want any auto
settings with this camera. You always want to be dialing
all of your settings manually so your image looks its best. So make sure the menu you selected. Down here under exposure control type, make sure this is set to PASM mode, this way you'll have full
manual control of your exposure. These next three settings
recall camera setting, camera set memory and memory recall media, we will cover in the next video. Subheading five, we got
silent mode settings. Don't worry about any of these, we're shooting a video
it's already silent. This release without lens
setting is very important and I would definitely make
sure it's set to enable because if you use a native lens you will not notice any difference but if you adapt a non-native
lens to this camera and your adapter does not
have an electronic connection to the camera, there's a chance the camera will not allow you to press record. It will tell you that you
cannot release the camera without a lens. That's a bummer, so by setting release with that lens to enable
you can basically make the camera work with any lens
that you want to adapt to it. Subheading six, audio
recording, recording video. Audio is a very important component video. This whole section is very important. Audio recording, make sure that's on, duh. Audio recording level, I usually have mine set to 15. We will cover how to change
the setting much more quickly in the next video. Audio out timing is important if you happen to use an external monitor when you're recording. If you're monitoring your
audio while recording and you notice that the
audio is slightly out of sync with the video, go into the setting and change audio out timing
from live to lip sync. And that should sync
up your audio and video if you're using an external monitor. Wind noise reduction,
I would leave this off. It can help reduce some of that (grunting) sort of deeper wind
noise that you can get. So wind sounds like, I don't know. Anyways, it can help reduce
some of that wind noise but it does it with a digital filter and you can do this in
post just as easily. So I would leave it off. Next we have shoe audio settings. And if you happen to be
using a Sony microphone that connects electronically to the camera using the hot shoe, meaning there isn't a
mic cord dangling down and going into the mic jack, in that case, the shoe audio
settings will be available for you to change the
settings for that microphone because we're not using one
though these are not accessible but that's the way it is if you happen to use one of those mics. Last we have audio level display. And of course you want this on because this is how you
can see your audio levels on the camera's monitor. Sub heading seven, we have TC/UB which stands for Time
Code slash User Bit time. If you use time code,
these settings are awesome. I do not know many wedding filmmakers or documentary filmmakers
that use time code though but here's the settings if you need them. Subheading seven we
have image stabilization AKA steady shot which is
just Sony's word for it. You can also call it IBIS
In Body Image Stabilization. However you want to call
it, the camera has it and this is a really,
really awesome setting. I wouldn't worry about changing any of these settings right now. In the next video, I'm
gonna cover how to change these settings very quickly without you needing to
dive into the menu at all. Subheading nine we have
zoom and zoom is awesome. First go down to zoom range and make sure that you have
a clear image zoom selected. This is Sony's proprietary digital zoom which I know it says
digital zoom right below it, ignore that you want clear image zoom because it's higher quality. But do you know where, just
like with image stabilization, we're gonna set clear image zoom to some presets on the camera
so you do not need to dive into the menu every single
time you want to use it. I would check out the zoom
speed setting down here though and tweak these numbers if you want to change the zoom
to make it faster or slower. For the last two
subheadings for the section we have shooting display
and market display and these are both pretty
similar in how they work. For shooting display, you can turn grid line display on and off and you can set what your
grid line type you want. I prefer the rule of thirds
grid so I have that enabled. And then if I turn it on, I'll get a nice little
rule of thirds display over the back of my camera's
monitor while recording. At the bottom here, you'll
see we have Emph disp dur REC which stands for Emphasized
Display During Recording. This is something that
you're definitely gonna want to have on because with it enabled, it's gonna create a really
awesome red border outline around the screen. And this makes it super
easy to tell at a glance if your camera's recording or not. I absolutely love it and
while it's a small thing it's one of my favorite
things about this camera. Moving down to marker display now. This is very similar to the grid lines but instead of a rule of thirds option, you have a lot more choices. What I would mostly pay attention to this section is the aspect marker because if you're somebody
that likes to shoot with those cinematic black bars, 2.35 to one for example or 166 to one, let's go down here to
2.35 to one, turn that on. And then we go up here to
marker display and turn it on. And you're gonna see that
there's now some white lines on the screen that are
gonna give you a preview of what your crop is gonna look like if you shoot in 2.35
to one mode, all right. We are done with the shooting section. Whew, that was a big one. We're moving down here to the pink icon that
says exposure slash color. First you have auto slow shutter and this is gonna automatically
change your shutter and ISO depending on the
brightness of the image. Remember what I said earlier though, we don't want anything auto,
everything should be manual. So make sure this setting is turned off and you can ignore all
the rest of this section moving on down here to exposure comp which stands for exposure compensation, the good news is you don't need to worry about any of this menu because
we're gonna be setting all of our settings manually. So you don't need to adjust
your exposure compensation. But that said, I would check
this setting and make sure that your exposure compensation
says plus or minus 0.0. And also you're gonna see
this handy little wheel here on the A7SIII , make sure
that this is set to zero and locked as well because
this is just a manual way of changing these settings in camera. So set all this to zero. Up next, we have
subheading three, metering and I cannot express how
much I love metering. It's a weird thing to say that I love but I love this camera's
metering, I love it. Metering is a camera's way of telling you if something that's recording
is too bright or too dark. And so of course I love it
because without the setting, it'd be really hard to
film with this camera. Looking at the screen on
the back of the A7SIII on the bottom, you'll see
the camera is telling you it's shutter speed f-stop and
then it says MM and a number, somewhere between negative
2.0 and positive 2.0. This is the A7SIII exposure meter. And in this case, mine
says 1.0 which means that it is one-stop overexposed. Back to the menu now. For most shooting, I would leave your metering mode on multi which means the camera
will check the exposure of everything that's being filmed and tell you exposure that sees in the MM number on the
bottom of the screen. Multi metering should work great for the vast majority of
anything you're shooting. Looking below here to face
priority and multi metering, I would always have this turned on. This way, when the camera
detects a face in the scene it's gonna prioritize telling
you the exposure of the face when you're exposing the image. It's really important that you
properly exposed skin tones of people you're filming with the A7SIII . So having this on will help with that. Lastly we have spot metering point. If you need to make sure
that a specific part of what you're shooting isn't overexposed, instead of setting your
metering mode to multi, you can set to spot mode. You can then set this spot
metering point setting to focus point link which will tell you whether a specific area of
your footage is overexposed when you tap on the screen. You can then use this spot
metering point setting to tell the camera where you
wanted to check exposure. It's a cool feature but I
don't find myself using it because I usually keep my
camera on multi metering and use zebras to make sure
my footage isn't overexposed. We'll cover more on zebras very soon. Moving down to subheading
for white balance now. This is yet another
super important setting. I always prefer to dial in my white balance manually using Kelvin. So scroll down to CTemp/filter which stands for Color Temperature. Press right on the dial
to move the selector over to the Kelvin numbers
and dial in your white balance so it matches the color of
the light in your scene, as a bonus, press right again to access the white balance adjustment screen where you can add more green or magenta to your white balance so
your image looks its best. Below this, we have priority
set in auto white balance but we just use the word auto. You don't need auto anything, ignore this. Lastly, you have shockless white balance and this is one of my favorite settings. I keep mine set to three. So when I'm recording a video and want to change my white balance while recording, the A7SIII
will gradually change this white balance
instead of very quickly, probably why it's called
shockless white balance. So you don't shock your
audience whenever you change it. Subheading five, we've got Color/Tone. Up first you have dynamic
range optimizer, turn this off, you don't need it, you can make any of
these changes in posts. Next, you have creative look
which lets you do things like add a nice sepia tone or ultra vivid color to your image. I wouldn't mess with any of these. The only one that I would
consider using would be the NT option which stands for Neutral. That can look decent on camera if you want an image that you don't wanna have to color grade. Lastly, we have picture profiles and oh, I love picture profiles
because this is the way that you can really
maximize the dynamic range and colors that you're
recording with this camera. I am planning on making another video about my favorite picture
profiles for the A7SIII . You could leave me a comment down below if you wanna see that
video and I will link to it whenever it's available
down in the video description. For now, if you don't
know what you're doing, I would leave picture profile set to off. Last but not least, we have
subheading six zebra display. Remember I said, we were
gonna talk about zebras. For zebra display, you're
gonna definitely want to set this to on. Zebra display will let
you know if your footage is overexposed by highlighting
any of the overexposed areas with these bright black and white lines that kind of look like zebras, probably that's why it's
called it zebra display. I always recommend using
zebras but it's important that you choose your zebras depending on what picture profile
you're choosing to shoot with. Once you've chosen a picture
profile, you can turn zebras on and then use the zebra level setting below to choose the level of brightness where you want your zebras to show up. All right, you want to talk auto focus, it's time to talk about auto focus which this camera is
really good at auto focus. At first we have AF/MF which stands for Auto
Focus slash Manual Focus, not bad words like you may be thinking. Under focus mode for video, if you're using native Sony lenses, set this mode to continuous AF. So the camera will
continuously change focus as you're recording. Auto-focus transition speed
will change how quickly the camera will rack focus
from one thing to another when it changes focus. I would play around with this setting and see what looks good to you. For me, I found the default of three is a good starting point. AF subject shifts sensitivity
which sounds like one of those tongue twisters
is going to let you set how sticky the Auto
Focus of the A7SIII is. If you want the camera
to focus on a person or object and stay stuck
on it, set this to one. If you want to quickly shift it from one person or thing
to another, set it to five. I think three is a good mix but you may want to set
it lower if you feel like the auto focus is too jumpy. Subheading two, focus area. I prefer to set focus area to wide and use face detect auto-focus which we'll talk about in a minute. If you want the camera to only focus on one specific area though, you can use other settings
like zone or spot to do that. Focus area limit will let you choose which auto focus area
settings are available, feel free to uncheck some of these boxes and once you've picked some favorites, like I said though, I keep
my focus areas set to wide. So I leave all these checked. Focus area color. When it changed the
color of the focus box, I keep mine on white but
you can also choose red if you're feeling fancy
or if you're a safe lord. Lastly, you have
circulation of focus point and auto focus frame move amount. Both of these apply if you're
using the spot focus area and can help you control
how to move the focus point but I would stick to wide and not worry about these two settings. Oh boy, we got face and
eye out of focus now, I love all these. Definitely make sure you
have face and eye priority and auto focus set to on
which means the camera is going to prioritize
focusing on faces or eyes if it sees them. For facing eyes subject
heavier set to human but it doesn't really matter
because unfortunately, the camera can not use animal
eye auto focus with video. I'm sorry, Philip blue. Frightened left eye select,
I would set this to auto unless you have a specific need. For face and eye frame display, definitely set this on
because it's gonna show you a nice little box around
whoever you're filming and can definitely help you
make sure things are in focus. Lastly, you have
registered faces priority. You can turn this off unless
you've registered a face while the camera's in photo mode but I don't really think
you'll need to use that for most shoots. Next we've got focus assistant. This is a fantastic way for
you to punch in to check focus especially if you're using a manual lens and you don't have auto-focus. Ignore focus magnifier for now, all that's gonna do is
punch in on the image and we're gonna set
that to a button later. I do want you to set your
focus magnification time to no limit because you should
be the one dictating how long you're punching in to check focus and for initial focus magnification, I would set that two times 4.0. So as soon as you press the button, it's gonna punch into focus, very useful if you're running gun shooting and I wanna be shooting
as fast as possible. Subheading five we have peaking display. And this is very important if you are using manual focus lenses in a run in gun scenario, because just like focus magnification can help you punch into check focus, turning on peaking is another
great way to make sure that whatever you're filming
is properly and focus as well. By turning on peaking, the camera will highlight the
in focus area of your image with a customizable
color of your choosing. For peaking color, you can
choose red, white and blue, American patriotic or
yellow which is not American but you can choose that too if you want. And for peaking level
you can set how intense you want the peaking to be. I usually leave this on mid but feel free to tweak it
depending on what you need. We've made it to the playback section. The blue playback button and good news, we actually don't need to worry about a ton of these settings
in the playback menu. I do want to draw your attention to the playback target section
and select playback media. If you press the play button
on the back of the camera which will let you review the photos and videos that you've recorded, this select playback media
setting will let you choose whether you want to play back your footage from the memory card in slot one or the memory card in slot two. Very useful to know where this setting is, we're gonna skip now through
some of these settings because a lot of them
don't apply for video. Magnification doesn't matter,
that's only for photos. Selection/memo, you
can protect your images but it doesn't matter because
if you format the card they'll still be deleted and ratings only apply to photos not video. Delete, don't delete
things using the setting, that could result in you
messing up your memory card. Always fully format your
memory card before a shoot and don't delete anything
while you're shooting. Edit, actually rotate here
under the edit settings is important because the A7SIII
has a built in gyroscope. And if you happen to
press record on a video while you're holding the camera sideways, it will save that video
as a vertical video. And you're gonna be very confused whenever you open it up in
your video editing software. So if you notice the one
of your clips is rotated, you can go here into the rotate setting, pick your clip and rotate it. Photo capture lets you record
a still from your video clip but you don't need to do
that just take a still from your video editing
software, it'll look better. Don't worry about viewing, not relevant for running and shooting. Playback option, ignore all this except for image jump method. You can set the image jump
method from one by one to by 10 images and then
whenever you use the front dial or the rear dial, depending
on what you select under select image jump dial,
you can then scrub quickly through your video clips
that you've recorded. This is great if you need to get back and review some of your footage. We're to the green world
icon AKA the network and just like the previous section, the majority of this
really doesn't matter. For transfer/remote you
can change your settings to enable you to control
the camera remotely with your smartphone. I don't use this often
but that's where it is if you need to use it. Literally all of these
other settings are for wifi and Bluetooth and you're really
not going to be using them in a run and gun scenario. The only thing I would note
is go down to network option and for airplane mode, turn that on because that may help your
camera save a little bit of battery and that's always a good thing. It's finally time, we made
it to the last subheading, the toolbox icon. We do have some settings in
here that we need to change. Set up one, we have area/date and down here under NTSC/PAL selector. If you notice that while you're recording that the maximum frame rate
that you're allowed to record is a hundred frames per second instead of 120, I would go into the NTSC/PAL selector setting and make sure your camera's set to NTSC. This will give you those
higher frame rate options. The only reason that you
wouldn't want to use NTSC is that if you're in a country
that uses the PAL standard and you are specifically doing something for broadcasts for example, where they needed something
to be in the pal format with a pal frame rate. For the vast majority of
people though especially if you're uploading videos
to YouTube, NTSC is great. Subheading to reset/save settings. Setting reset will let you reset some of the camera's settings
or completely reset it to stock as it came from the factory. If you ever screw things up and can't figure out how to undo them, try resetting the settings and start over. Below you'll see save/load settings. This lets you save and
load your camera settings to the memory card. I love this feature and
this is what you can use to download my settings to your camera which you can still download down below. Subheading three, operation customize. You have custom key settings
for photo, custom key settings for video and custom key
settings for playback. We're gonna cover all of
these in the next video. Next, you have different
settings for still and movies. If you're a filmmaker
that also does photography and you want to have separate settings for your photo and video, use this setting but this is a video about
running and filmmaking. So we're not gonna worry about stales you, nobody
wants that, video only. Display a screen, display
settings is a great way for you to change what information appears on your monitor and on your viewfinder. I usually leave all these
checked except for monitor off which I want to leave
unchecked and for finder I leave them all checked. Next we have record with shutter. Oh my goodness record
with shutter is fantastic. Instead of you needing to use
the dedicated record button on the A7SIII or setting
another custom button to record, you can set these shutter button to record which is fantastic because
it's this big button, it's ergonomic, it's right there where your finger is resting. As soon as I realized I could
turn this on, I turned it on and that's the button that
I used to always record now. Very last buried down here at the bottom we have zoom ring rotate. Do you need to worry about that? It's grayed out, this'll matter for certain native Sony lenses. So check if it's available
and mess around with it. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it. Subheading four, dial customize which is gonna cover
this dial in the front this style on the back,
this other big dial here, all the dials on this camera. For my dial settings, you
can use this to customize the way that your dials work on the camera but I'm gonna show you a
different way to do this in the next video that's just as fast. So I wouldn't worry about it. Dial set up, you can
choose Tv Av or Av Tv, what the heck is that. This basically lets you choose if you want your front or rear dial to change your aperture and shutter speed you can flip between the
two with the setting. I prefer Av Tv personally. Av Tv rotate lets you choose if you want to rotate these dials clockwise or counterclockwise to
change those settings. I'll leave my settings to normal. Dial Ev compensation that has to do with the exposure
compensation dial at the top, don't worry about it. Function ring lens, certain
Sony lenses have a function ring on the lens that you can
use this menu setting to customize, dig in there if you wanna do that. Lastly you have a lock operation parts. And if you turn this on, by holding down the function menu button for approximately three seconds that will lock all of the
buttons on the camera. This is nice if you don't
want to bump something and change it but we're
running and gun shooting. We don't want things to be locked. We want to be able to
access things very quickly. So I always leave this off. Subheading five, touch operation. Definitely have touch operation turned on. As this is going to let
you touch your screen to change your focus when
using native Sony lenses. For touch sensitivity, I
would leave it to standard, touch panel/pad, I would have
it set to touch panel only. And for touch pad settings, you don't need to mess with this. This only applies if you are looking through the camera's viewfinder and you want to use the screen as a touch screen to change focus, it's kind of wonky
though so I don't use it. For touch function and shooting, set this to touch tracking. So the camera will focus
on whatever you tap on and then keep tracking it as it moves. Alternatively, you can
set it to touch focus but if this subject you're filming moves, the focus will be lost. Subheading six, finder slash monitor. For select finder/monitor, by default, the A7SIII will automatically switch between the monitor and the EVF if you bring it up to your eye. This uses a motion sensor
below the eyepiece to detect if you bring it up to your face. I also hate it because
if you wave your hand in front of the sensor accidentally while you're trying to
change the camera settings, it will black out the monitor and you can't see what you're shooting. So to work around this, I have my select finder/monitor
set to monitor manual. And in my upcoming custom buttons video, we're gonna set a custom button that will let you manually switch between the viewfinder and the EVF so you don't have to deal
with this motion sensor. Next we got monitor brightness, ooh boy, I love sunny weather, turn it on so your screen is always
bright even outdoors. For viewfinder brightness, I usually leave this to
auto as it does a good job of setting a proper
brightness whenever I use it. Finder color temperature. I also leave this at zero. Viewfinder magnification, I have mind set to standard
but if you have glasses you may want to set yours to zoom out. Display quality, this is important. I would leave this set to standard. This is gonna lower the
frame rate that the monitor on the back of the camera
refreshes at but don't worry. This will not affect the video frame rates that your camera's recording at, just the monitor frame rate. By keeping this on standard, this will help you
increase your battery life without causing any real issues. Next we have finder frame rate. I also leave this on
standard for the same reason of preserving battery life. Subheading seven, display
option, guess what? We got more time code display settings. You leave set to counter. If you use time code, you can change this, there you go. Next, we have gamma display assist. This are very important feature. When you're shooting an Slog or HLG, you can use this feature
to turn on and off the built-in camera lot. This is gonna help you preview what your camera image is gonna look like whenever you're filming
in a flat picture profile. we're gonna set this to a custom button in the next video so you can
leave it off in these settings. For gamma display assist type, leave this set to auto. For remain shooting display, notice that little
photo icon next to this. This is for photos, you
don't need that, ignore it. Leave it to not displayed. For auto review that's also for photos. Don't worry about it. Next we have power save start time which enables you to set
how long the camera stays on before it shuts off. If you want to save battery and you're bad about
turning the camera off, set this to something low like one minute, otherwise turn it up
higher for 30 minutes. Auto power off temperature,
definitely set this too high. The camera is gonna give you a warning but don't worry about it. This is gonna make the camera get warmer before it shuts off due to overheating. And with my testing of
the A7SIII overheating which you can check out,
I'll link to in the corner and the video description. Having this set to high
we'll keep the camera from overheating even outdoors in a hundred plus degree
weather recording in 4k. Subheading nine, sound option. At first, you'll see volume settings. This is where you set the volume the audio will play back through either the very tiny speaker on the camera or your headphones. Adjust this as you need to. Below that you'll see four
channel audio recording. If you're using Sony's XLRK 3m Adapter, you can record up to four channels of audio with this camera. For running guns shooting though, you probably won't be using that. So set it to the default
channel one slash channel two. Last you have audio signals. And ugh, this is one of the worst features of any Sony camera, I kid you not. It's what governs that little do, do, do and do, do whenever you
start and stop recording. I absolutely hate it for
running gun shooting, the goal is to be silent. And so by having this on
you're immediately announcing, hey, I'm recording over here. It's awful, turn this off immediately. Subheading 10, USB. If you're using your camera
with an external device or connecting your camera
to your computer via USB, these settings will help you do that. I leave my USB connections set to auto and USB lens setting to multi. Below that you'll see USB power supply. And this is actually really important. As this settings is
gonna enable you to power the A7SIII via its USB-C port. This camera can run from
an external battery pack or USB power cord plugged
into AC power indefinitely. So I would definitely turn this on. Up next, we have subheading
11 external output. If you use an external
monitor with your camera, these settings will help you set up the resolution and frame rate you are sending to the external monitor. Also the HDMI output settings
menu is where you tell the camera to output raw
to an external recorder. So if you want to do that, make sure that setting is turned on. Below this, you'll see HDMI info display. This will enable all the
camera settings like frame rate and shutter speed to appear
on your external monitor. If you're recording to
an external recorder, make sure this is turned off. So you're sending a clean HDMI signal. But if you're just using
an external monitor to view what you're recording, turn it on as this will help you see
your settings more easily. Lastly, there's control for HDMI. This will enable you to press
record on an external monitor like an Atomus and it
would trigger the camera to record as well via
HDMI, nice feature to have. We made it y'all, it's
the very last section, we're almost done. I can see the light at
the end of the tunnel. Subheading 12, set up option. The first two sections
are video light mode and infrared remote control. If you have a video light from Sony you can control it using the setting. If you have an infrared remote control, you can control that using the setting. I don't use either of those things and I definitely wouldn't
recommend putting a light on this camera. Off-camera lights are your friend, don't do on camera lights. Next we have sensor cleaning. This will help you clean
your cameras image sensor. If you want to manually
clean your image sensor, use this setting first because it will lock
the cameras image sensor using the IBIS motors so you
can clean it more easily. Next, there's auto pixel mapping. Basically, if your camera
ever has an issue with one of the pixels on its sensor,
this setting will help fix it. Leave it on pixel mapping, just let auto pixel
mapping handle the setting, don't mess around with it. Version, this is very nice. This is gonna tell you
the firmware version of your cameras on as
well as the lens version if that needs to be updated as well. With that, those are
all of the menu settings that you need to change for the A7SIII to get you recording as fast as possible. But match there's so much more to cover. There's the mode dial,
custom menu, custom buttons, the function menu. Well, don't worry. My next video is gonna cover
all the settings for that and you are going to love it because once you have all your buttons and settings customized, you will basically never need to jump into the maze of menus that we covered in this video ever again. Does that sound awesome? Because that sounds really awesome to me after digging through all these menus. I'll link to that video down
below, and don't forget, you can completely skip
watching that video if you download my custom
camera settings file which you can then load onto your camera and have all of your custom
buttons menus et cetera completely set up and ready to shoot. I will also link down below to my A7SIII video formats explained video which will walk you through
all the video quality settings that I recommend that you use
to get the best quality video from this camera as well as my A7SIII memory cards guide
video which will walk you through which memory cards to buy. These videos apply it
to the Sony FX3 as well because it uses the same memory cards and records video using the same settings. All right, see you in the next video. Thanks so much for watching
and have a great day
