BEST FX3 VIDEO Settings – Sony FX3 Complete Setup Guide for CINEMATIC Video

everyone camper here showing you how to use your camera to make good videos and getting a new camera is always really exciting but it can also be a bit overwhelming once you start sifting through all the menus trying to figure out which settings that you should use so i'm going to give you a little shortcut by showing you my settings on the sony fx3 to help get you on your way to making more cinematic videos [Music] so let's get this turned on and jump right into the menus starting out we have the my menu section which is a customizable setting so you can get to the things used most often easily and i'll cover that at the end so starting out we have file format xavc-s 4k is what i typically use you have lots of different options here si is going to be higher quality but let me show you real quick what happens when you do that so i have 24p 100 megabits per second four to two 10 bit is my typical when i'm shooting 4k but if you go to xavc-si which is over two times more data it requires a lot more space i will use this for more important things like maybe a wedding or short film but just for my regular youtube videos xabcs is plenty and i have another video you can check out explaining about the difference between s i answer frame recording and ipb settings and how that will affect your videos that you can check out to better understand that but 24p is my normal then obviously you have 60 and 120p you can do on this camera which is really nice but 24 frames per second is normally my bass slow and quick i don't use this setting at all because i'll set my own 60 or 120 frames per second and then slow it down and post as i want proxy settings i have set to off but you can turn this on and what it basically does is records another file as you can see here at 720 only six megabits per second four two or eight bits so when you're editing you can edit these files and it is a lot less taxing on your computer and then you can go in and apply all of your edits to your main files but my computer can handle the files that i do right now so it's not an issue for me aps-c shooting is off but you can use this if you're in hd mode to punch in an extra 50 percent when you're shooting stuff but in 4k this camera sensor is actually a 4k sensor it's using the entire sensor with no down sampling so can't use it unless you're in hd lens compensation i just have everything set to auto so if it detects the type of lens you're using it'll compensate as needed then format that's just if you're formatting your memory cards record media settings i have slot one is the priority and then recording mode is simultaneous both to both cards for both pictures and videos if you had it set to one over the other then you could have auto switch on so once one card fills up it'll automatically start recording to the next one you can recover image database media info for your cards file settings if you want to go in and change how your files are named you can do that but i don't really care exposure mode i am always in manual i do not use these auto modes manual is what i go for and you can change the different options you have if you're not doing manual but as i said i'm always shooting in manual camera set memory now this is a really important section you can go in and preset different modes so for example when i'm shooting right now i have set xavc-s 4k 24 frames per second you can see it's 4 2 2 10 bit now i can click on mode here and i can go down to memory 1 click on that now i have xabcs 4k 60p 4210 bit with 125 on the shutter speed for the 180 degree rule picture profile 8 set down here so i can quickly change between 24 frames per second and 60 so that i can get slow motion footage and then go right back to where i was then i have number two set xavcs hd 24p 4208 bit and i have 150th on the shutter speed and i use that for my fitness videos because i don't need as high quality and the same thing memory three i have 60p xavcs hd with the same 180 degree rule on the shutter speed so i can get slow motion footage in the hd because as i said i don't need as high quality for those videos as i do with these but then i go to my normal video setting and i am back shooting xavcs 4k 24p so it just makes it really easy going in here and setting all these different modes and there's four more you can do so you can get really in-depth if you're shooting live somewhere maybe you have multiple areas of different lighting setup you can set all of those ahead of time so you can quickly scroll through and not have to be going through the menus to change your settings the memory recall media slot 1 so when you're watching the playback it's pulling it from card number one silent mode settings i don't mess with that release without lens is enabled audio recording set to on the level is basically depends on the type of microphone you're using and what you need audio out timing is live i have noise reduction off because i don't want it doing any of that processing for me the audio level display is on so when we're looking here you have the audio level right there and you can monitor it time code and user bit presets i just leave like that i don't mess with those time code run record run we have this preset and off steady shot set to standard i have a button program where i can turn that on and off the steady shot works great on this camera it punches in just a little bit but it makes it super stable even when handheld i have it set to auto because all of my lenses are compatible so it automatically knows how to stabilize based on the focal length i'm using but if you're using a non-compatible lens with maybe an adapter you can come down here and you can change put in whatever focal length you're using and it'll stabilize based on that lens but i don't need that because my lenses are compatible so zoom range with this you have the option of choosing optical only so if you have a zoom lens it'll only use what your zoom lens can do clear image zoom is where you can punch in up to 50 percent with pretty much no noticeable loss in quality but then digital zoom is where you punch in even further and you do start to get that cheap look so clear and zoom i like to keep that on there and i will show you in a little bit how i have that program to use but you can change zoom speeds here there's lots of custom settings slow and fast you can program buttons to do all that and just depends on the equipment you have grid line displays on with the rule of thirds grid i always use because i like having rule of thirds in there to help frame my shots emphasize record display essentially what happens is when you press record this red box shows up which is nice to have to help you know that you are in fact recording marker display is set to off but when i turn that on when we come back to here you can see now i have these lines here and that is to help frame my shots based on the 235 to 1 aspect ratio so that i don't cut out anything that's important in my frame if i know i'm going to be changing to that aspect ratio when i get to editing and you can change to a different aspect ratio marker all these different ones super useful to have and there's other guide frames safety zones all that type of stuff if you're using a marker for different aspect ratios now auto slow shutter i have off that's if you're in an auto mode but like i said i'm always shooting in manual iso you can change it here but i have buttons programmed to do that which we'll go over in a bit the range limit is right there so if you were using auto settings that you could set the minimum and maximum isos that it will use and i don't mess with that i like to have third exposure steps but you can change it to half if you prefer that i don't do that metering mode is spot which is what i typically use i will switch back and forth between multi and spot sometimes but most the time it's spot and the nice thing is you can also change to a large dot or the standard smaller size face priority and multi metering i have off because as i was saying i typically use spot metering so that i can make sure i'm exposing skin properly and i don't want it to do that if i'm in multi because i'm looking at the overall scene spot metering point you can change where you want it but i have it in center white balance i'm typically always using kelvin sometimes i'll use custom if i have a gray card i'm doing something like a short film where i have time to set up for the best color that i can get but kelvin works for me most of the time or you can use one of the many presets in the camera priority set and auto white balance i just have standard because i don't use auto white balance and it also has shockless white balance so basically if you're going from one scene to another indoors outdoors it'll make a slow gradual change if you have it on this setting to your white balance if you're using auto but i just don't use auto so i don't run into that issue dynamic range optimizer i've set to off because i don't want it doing extra processing in camera creative look is set to standard so that's just what i use if i'm not using a picture profile but i do typically use picture profiles and i like to use picture profile eight and i have the gamma switch to cine four now you can have this on s-log two or three and i'll give you even better quality but you have a higher base iso and cine4 is pretty easy to color grade for my normal shots but i will use s-log if i have a more important shoot that i really want the best quality for and so now we have picture profile eight set when you have that these go away so zebra display is off when it's turned on i have it set to 100 plus so anything at 100 or over that's overexposed will show hash lines in the video which makes it easy to see what in your shot is overexposed quickly focus modes i typically always use continuous autofocus if i'm not in manual we have transition speed so if you clicked on one thing and click to another that'll change how fast it does that rack then also the shift subject sensitivity this just determines how much they'll stay locked onto one thing or switching quickly between various objects focus area i usually have it set to y but as you can see here there's lots of different settings you can have in there and you can uncheck things that you'd never use i just leave them all checked because i'm pretty much always in wide so it doesn't really matter to me have this set to white do not circulate on the focus point auto frame i don't mess with that there i face priority and auto focus i have on human auto for whichever eye it detects i like to have the song because it shows a box over people's faces or eyes so you definitely for sure know what it's focusing on when you're in auto focus and you can register faces priority if you want focus magnifier you can punch in four times to check the focus and make sure it's on what you want there's i've set it to no time limit because i'll turn it off myself when i'm done and initial focus is four you can set it to one but it's kind of useless to me because if you're going to punch in why are you going to have to click two buttons i just do that so it goes straight to four peaking i have on level is high and color is red and you can change the color depending you know if you have a red scene you might want a different color for peaking but i have display set to on it's not on when you're in auto focus but as soon as i switch to manual focus then the peaking will automatically turn on so it helps me get focus spot on now in this section this is all playback settings you can pretty much set this to how you want i don't mess with anything in this so that's just as you prefer and the same with this section the only thing i really do in here is i turn bluetooth off as well as have airplane mode on because i don't want it wasting battery while it's searching for signals now here for area and date obviously i have english for my language you can set your date and time i'm in ntsc you can save your settings to the camera if you want which can be helpful if you have multiple people using the same camera since it is so customizable and speaking of customization i don't really customize any pictures because i only take pictures pretty much for thumbnails but when i come into here for video settings i have iso set to this dial here so i use this for iso up and down focus magnifier right here like i said it punches in that four times to check your focus marker display right here that'll put those lines of the 235 to one or whatever other setting you'd have steady shot is the middle button so i can click that turn steady shot on and off easily zebra display select pretty much this camera has some things already labeled so i just left it there zebras there on the left peaking display i left it there on the right and i just put that because to me that just makes it easier since it's already labeled that i just put it like that then audio record level i put on the bottom because i have shutter speed set to the front of the camera record frame rate there's a button up here that i didn't really have anything else i want to customize so i put that so if i wanted to i could quickly change to another frame rate but i rarely ever use that at all white balance right here there's a button up here it is actually labeled wb and then there's an iso button but since i have iso set to here i have that says my metering mode it's labeled as a number three up there focus standard is for here i use that for pictures so when i click that it'll focus on the middle of the screen where the box is movie shooting there's a giant record button up there autofocus manual focus selector toggle there's a button down here in the front it says record but i just use the record button up here and that one i can easily turn the manual focus on and off like with the 50 millimeter lens i have here it doesn't have an auto manual focus switch on there then also there's a focus hold button which i don't really use because most of my lenses don't even have that and then for function menu settings i'm just going to click on function to show you i have autofocus transition speed the subject shift sensitivity focus areas zebra levels my picture profiles with the gamma display assist i'll cover that in a minute peaking display with the level and the color the audio record level the steady shot and then the aps-c shooting so if i am in hd i can access that right there and this is just helpful you know if someone else is using your camera most of the settings you need are going to be right there so you can have different settings for still and movies which i do but if you want it all to be the same you could do that as well for the display you can go in here and choose what things are going to show up on your screen like histogram i never really use so you can uncheck the things that you don't need record with shutter is off zoom ring rotate that's n a for this lens my dial settings you can customize that but i haven't touched it dial setup so right here is my aperture and the wheel on the front is my shutter speed i have the rotation direction as normal eb comp is off lock operation parts is off so essentially i can hit record and i can still change all my iso shutter speed all that type of stuff if i want while it's still recording touch operation on with sensitivity set to standard and touch focus and shooting now here is really useful you have touch focus so you can touch something it focuses on that and you can touch something else and it'll rack focus super helpful but you also have touch tracking so you can touch an object and a little box will appear over it'll track that throughout your frame so that it stays locked on to whatever that thing is that you chose but touch focus is what i typically use most often monitor brightness i have set to manual and full bright display quality high now when you first get your camera it's going to be on standard and if stuff doesn't look quite crisp to you you can go to high it's going to take a little bit more battery but i like to have the best quality on my screen for focusing and just seeing how everything looks i have this set to counter gamma display assist so i talked about this briefly i have it set to on and auto but normally when i have a picture profile on let's say i'll be in s log 2 and what happens is when you're shooting with a picture profile you typically have a washed out image so when you put this on it basically puts a lut on top of that so that you can see what it's going to look like it really helps with exposure and white balance because when it's washed out it's just hard to get those things right but it doesn't bake all that into the image and you still get the more washed out image that the picture profile gives you when you get to editing so you can get a lot more dynamic range and all that good stuff from your video remain shoot display is not displayed auto review is off power save start time is 5 minutes because i don't want to wait 30 minutes and kill a ton of battery if i have the camera on i'm not using it so 5 minutes it'll start saving power and shut most of the stuff off auto power off temp i've never had this camera overheat it does have a fan in it but i did set this to high just so that i have more time if needed volume settings this just depends on playback and what you want and for channel audio monitoring i don't do much with this it really depends on your equipment and what you have but i suggest you look at gerald on dunn's video on this camera because he breaks down these audio channels and how you can use them audio signals are on usb connection is auto we have multi and power on so i can power it externally hdmi resolution is auto this all settings really depend on if you have a monitor setup in what kind of settings you need based on your equipment hdmi info display is off and have control for hdmi on video light mode power link record lamp i have all on so essentially you have lights here on the record button on the front and multiple places to let you know that you are recording but you can change only to front or all off i like to have them all on but if you're in a dark setting you might want to turn them off so you don't have red lights reflecting but they are quite useful because there have been many times when i thought i was recording and i wasn't and that was a pain fan control so there's a fan on this camera it sticks out a little bit here and you can see the vents for it you can have on auto where it turns on when it needs minimum is where it's only going to do the minimum necessary i have mine set to often recording so as soon as i hit record the fan is going to turn off no matter how hot the camera gets but as soon as i stop recording the fan will kick on as needed to cool off the camera or you can turn to always off if that's what you want ir remote control is off but if you have one then you can use that to control your camera auto pixel mapping is on which i don't use any of that i'm not going to try to map any pixels myself and then the version you can check for updates so then we have the my menu settings at the very top and this is all touch screen however i don't want to touch it and get smudges for this video so as you saw there's a lot of menu settings and you can put in this section the things you use most often so first off is formatting the cards then the file format 4k or hd then we have the movie settings for the different frame rates picture profiles with the gamma display the zebra display with the zebra levels next page i have all the auto focus settings with the tracking sensitivity the speed shift sensitivity then all of the peaking settings and then at the end i have here the camera set memory so i can go in here and change those quickly if i want now the one thing that's really annoying that i wish this camera had is when it came into the touch operation this one right here this touch tracking you cannot set this to any custom button on the camera or in the custom menu i don't know why i'd really like to have that so i can quickly switch between those modes i don't use tracking very often but not having to find where it is in the menu would be really helpful but do what you got to do i know where it is now so i can get to it easily but it still would be easy to be able to just click a button and then be able to change that as i want but those are my fx3 cinematic video settings now i want to make it very clear that there is a lot more that goes into making videos look cinematic than just these settings on your camera however getting these settings right is the first step in that process of making better videos but i also have lots of videos and playlists on the channel teaching you more cinematic techniques with lighting framing and much more so be sure to check those out and you'll see your skills improve even faster but if this video is helpful then please help me out by leaving a like subscribe if you're new and leave any questions in the comments and i'll try to clarify anything i can for you and with that i'll see you in the next one

Channel: Camber Motion

Views: 2,125

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Id: wtF65BCDovM

Length: 19min 24sec (1164 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 18 2021