Manco Dingo Go Kart Revival (Part 1) - It's Rough

hey guys welcome back so today working on something a little bit different this is a dingo go-kart I believe it's about 25 years old and it's Rusty and crusty but it has good bones and good potential the tires they're well they're all flat but at least they're there the steering seems to work and the brakes actually work as well so we're off to a good start you know the engine is currently uninstalled and I think that's where I'm going to have a bit of work on this the engine and the go-kart were left outside for quite a while and the tank as you can imagine yeah it doesn't look great I'm sure the carburetor looks just as good but the engine it is not stuck but it doesn't sound good I actually don't want to turn it too much I hear a lot of scraping I'm not sure if it's coming from the piston and the cylinder or potentially the flywheel rubbing against the ignition coil so we definitely need to dig in that but I think I'm going to start by just pressure washing this Frame get all the dirt and the loose rust off try to air up those tires and then move on to that engine I'm awesome [Music] all right I'm gonna let my son air this one up he's dying to get this go-kart up and running that should be good this one did air up but I can hear and feel the air coming out of this crack so yeah um I might need some new tires but let's air up the rest see if any of them hold any air yeah we get a lot of air leaking on this one as well all right that's good oh that's good sure I may have been wrong about the front tires I think they have tubes in them so the bubbles that I saw might have just been the air getting squeezed out between the tube and the tire I'm not sure so I'm just going to roll this out of the way for now we'll let it sit for a while and see if any of these tires hold air oh that spark plug does not look good it is rusted or melted it's really weird so we'll need a new one of those but for now I'm just going to pull it off get a little PB Blaster in there and see if that loosens the engine up a bit no compression and the engine just got stuck so yeah not looking too good I also see dirt falling out on The Recoil side so I'm gonna get the blower housing off just get a look in there and yeah this one I'm not sure might be a good candidate for a predator replacement but let's keep going see how far we get foreign good news I think that noise pretty sure it's just the flywheel on the coil so I'm gonna vacuum that out blow it out maybe take some sandpaper to the flywheel yeah this engine I'd say it was sitting in dirt or mud because this whole section is I assume rotted away and a ton of dirt just came right out so yeah I want to say this engine looks great but I think it will run assuming I can get compression ooh I think I just heard compression yeah somehow we now have compression nice [Music] [Music] foreign here and say that this ignition coil probably doesn't work it's rusted quite a bit we have rustic jacking pushing the laminations apart and the kill wire it's still here but all the insulation for the most part is missing it's just bare copper right there so I'm going to try to get this coil off hopefully these release I do have coils for nine and ten horse engines that I think will fit on this flywheel just fine the boot it's a little bit different but I think that'll be okay so let's try to get those loose [Music] huh nothing left on that one you try a smaller bit see if it'll get on there no seven millimeters not close and eight fits but I think it's just going to strip it out let's try it's already rounded let's finish the job wow well I think I'm kind of dead in the water here this coil the one that I pulled off if there was any question of it being bad I'd say that question is gone because I didn't even notice what is going on here and on the back side there's supposed to be a tab right there where you connect the wire to kill spark and that is corroded off so yeah this coil it is definitely out you know I thought I could get away with using this Briggs coil from a 10 horse engine it also fits the nine horse it seems to fit the flywheel just fine but the issue is actually with these holes right here the screw that's used to hold this on on this engine it's a wider diameter and it doesn't really fit and even if it did these holes they're drilled more on the Outer Edge and on this coil they're centered and it's not a big difference but it's enough to throw the alignment off by about an eighth of an inch and there is no way to bolt this one on so yeah I need to place an order for the correct coil and continue this another day the ignition coil it's been ordered it'll be here tomorrow and I also ordered a carburetor rebuild kit I am sure this carburetor needs to be cleaned and rebuilt so I'm going to get that uninstalled now to do that I need to get the air box off and the carp and the fuel tank will come off as one unit we'll get that inside clean it up so when the kit gets here we can just throw everything together and try this thing out foreign that's not a good sign probably not the best design by Briggs having the air box facing up but yeah water definitely got in which caused all this rust or actually not really rust looks like a varnishy goo so yeah that may not be a bad thing but this air box definitely has to be cleaned up and that carburetor I'm sure looks exactly the same [Music] in order to get the carburetor off there is a bolt right there and another one on the bottom side a little hard to get to but definitely doable the carb is attached to the tank so the tank needs to come as well and for that there's one bolt on a bracket down here holding it on unfortunately the torque converter is in the way at least this pulley is as well as the plate on the bottom here so I need to get that and the plate uninstalled and then we should be able to get this removed that was easy sorry for the noise my neighbor's cleaning his yard and actually behind me I'm testing another generator so you can kind of hear that too I can't really complain since I make more noise than anyone okay good both of those are loose so let's get the tank bracket loose and should come right off foreign this one's going to be a bit of a learning experience I have never had to rebuild a Pulsa jet yeah let's try the impact [Music] foreign [Music] foreign yeah I'm kind of second guessing myself on this one as far as the approach I'm taking I was hoping to get this cleaned up so when the ignition coil shows up and the rebuild kit we can just rebuild this and throw it back in but now that I can see it we need more than a rebuild kit the fuel pickup is in pretty bad shape has to be replaced this copper tube does not look good probably need a new one of those main Jets plugged and this here is pretty corroded I think it's a sacrificial anode at least I hope it is because if it's anything else then this carb is definitely shot so yeah I think I'm going to hold off before ordering any more parts there are good clone carburetors on Amazon for about 30 bucks that have good reviews so instead of spending more money on this one I think in this case I might try a clone but I don't want to order a clone yet I'm going to wait until the ignition coil shows up I want to hear the engine run before I order anything now as far as the fuel tank goes this one I was not planning on cleaning up and I'm still not it's not really feasible because inside there are baffles and foam so you can't really clean the whole tank even if you drop nuts and bolts down in here it's just going to go into a baffle and not really do a whole lot and I'm also a little confused because the way this works is that the fuel pump continuously pumps fuel up and drips it down into the bowl with a main jet picks it up but there's no bull on this so I don't see how this carburetor would have ever worked in this tank so I did just double check the parts diagram and it doesn't look like that is the correct tank for this carburetor and for that engine the other tank that I was given which is pretty clean seems to match as far as this pattern right here and it has a bowl granted it's rusted but the rest of the tank's in pretty good shape so I think what I'm going to do instead is just put a bunch of evaporest in there we'll let that sit for a few days and I will order that clone carb if the engine runs we also need a cap so yeah we'll hold off see how that engine does and go from there but first I need to get this old tank drained out it smells really bad that might be the bowl a lot of rust the coil showed up today surprisingly it's a Briggs and Stratton coil I actually thought I got a clone which this kind of looks like one but yeah can't complain we have the wire that was chewed up and a good coil so let's get this mounted it's not labeled which side out but I'm assuming this is the outside since it has the tab for the engine cooling right there foreign the plug that I pulled out of there it wasn't auto light 255 and that is not the right plug for this engine usually it would have come with a champion I think it was an rj19lm which I don't have I should say I do have but it's pretty old instead I have an NGK br2 LM slightly used but in good condition so let's get this hooked up and I'm just going to rotate the engine make sure we have spark beautiful got a good spark yeah oil smells good feels good I think it's fine to test with foreign very nice the engine it sounds good so I'm going to place the order for that clone carburetor and then we should be able to finish up the fuel system here in the left side of the engine but I do want to get it running again one more time I'm going to put some more fuel down the spark plug hole pull it over and then feed it a little bit with starting fluid right through the intake I want to see if the torque converter plate is moving I did not see that and I don't know if I have an issue here so yeah let's try it again foreign foreign but it's not returning when the engine slows down so potentially it might work itself out and I kind of doubt it but I'm going to hold off and opening that up until we get the carb and the tank sorted out and then I'll turn my attention back to that the new carb showed up today and for the most part it looks to be correct so I think it is going to work out just fine at least as far as fitment goes I did get it from Amazon so if it ends up being a dud it's easy enough to return but there is one notable difference on the original carb it had three linkages coming to the carburetor one was the choke the other the throttle and that's usually all you see on carburetors and that's all that carburetor came with but the OEM one has this extra linkage right here and that corresponds with the fuel pump so I'm thinking that just varies the flow of fuel coming up from the bottom and into the bowl but yeah so that one's going to be pumping at full speed I don't think that's an issue because the way they design it is that the bowl is supposed to overflow and the excess goes back to the tank so I think we'll be okay but that brings me to the next issue the evapor rust kind of backfired on me I use it because it is safe on metal it will not eat metal it only eats rust but 36 hours in the evapor rust disappeared from the bowl so I developed a pinhole and yeah this tank I think needs to be replaced but as long as the hole isn't too big I think the pump will keep up just fine especially since this one is pumping at full speed but longer term yeah I need a new tank unfortunately it's a discontinued part and I can't find it used or a clone for that matter so I'm going to leave the part number in the description if you happen to have one of these on a shelf and want to part with it please let me know but for now I'm going to use what I have but to that end I do still want to clean this up a bit I'm going to lightly go over it with a wire wheel I just want to knock off any rust that might flake off because the carburetor only has a filter on the pickup the assumption is once it's in the bowl it's clean fuel and there's nothing between the bowl and the main jet so any bits of rust are going to clog that up pretty quickly so yeah we'll just lightly brush the loose rust kind of blow it out of there and proceed with getting this thing together is this just the evaporized it's leaking pretty fast yeah that's not a pinhole that's a pretty fast leak so hmm I'm at a bit of an impasse here as far as what to do as a last-ditch effort I was going to JB Weld the Bull to get it to hold fuel but I don't think that's going to work and it has nothing to do with the JB Weld I think that'll work fine the Clone carburetor it came with a gasket and that gasket shape matches the old tank which is a bit odd because the parts diagram for that engine clearly shows a teardrop shape but the thing that sealed the deal was that both the OEM carb and the Clone carb require four bolts to hold it down two right there and two right there and on this tank we have the two on this side but over here we only have one so there is no way this tank is going to work and of course this tank is out because it has no bull whatsoever so I think what I'm going to do is post something on my community tab see if anyone has a tank like this that they're willing to part with and if they do we'll continue this in a bit but if they don't then I'm gonna have to resort to plan B and do a predator swap so let me pause it here I'll give it some time and see what comes of it it's been a few days since I made the post and no one's come forward yet which is okay I think it is going to take time but I did reach out to a bunch of small engine people in my area just to see if they had this tank and nobody does but Jason from pate's performance he did hook me up with a guy that doesn't have this tank but he does have a tank setup for a five horse engine it requires a different carburetor and air box which he is willing to sell as a package for 130 dollars but that tank doesn't look great inside it might be usable but I don't know if it's really an improvement over what I have and when doing a bigger search on eBay a wider search not for this specific part number there are plenty of Tanks out there for a five horse engine that should bolt on assuming it has the matching carburetor and air box and the prices range from about a hundred dollars all the way up to 200 depending upon how good they are on the inside anyway I don't want to wait for the perfect tank I'm going to go back to the plan of applying JB Weld in here we'll let that cure up and give this tank a try even with the three bolts you know fourth would be nice but I don't think it's needed for testing and I am going to try to rebuild this as well you know I want to stick with OEM as much as possible if this ends up being a complete dud I always have the Clone yeah a little more bring up and that's it hopefully that stops the leak so I'm going to let this cure for about 24 hours and then test it out so there's not much in here it's just the spring and this little piece that goes on top of it and this here is what needs to be replaced this is the pump those are the check valves and a lot of times these get pretty crispy over time and they just don't work right yeah and I'd say this one was definitely due for a cleaning don't think all that is supposed to be there so that should be cleaned and this yeah it's definitely not the way it should be so we'll get that replaced and let's see what's next this is the pilot jet and before removing that I'm just going to see where it's set right now by turning it in and Counting the turns it was one turn so when we put this back together we'll set it back to one turnout and we can always adjust it later yeah I think I need to at least remove the plastic piece and make sure the tube is clear I'm not going to replace this yet you know I don't know if this is the carburetor I'm going to use or even what tank I'm going to use so depending upon the tank it kind of drives what carburetor I use so I'm not going to make this perfect but I might have something that'll work kind of as a hack in place of this so we'll give that a try that was easy foreign so that's a good sign let's try to clear the main jet next gonna try this micro drill bit I'm not sure the jet size so I'm starting what I think is pretty small so I really just want to clear the obstruction and not drill the jet there we go okay it's clear foreign foreign 's considered it's cleaned up really well so it'll definitely run I'm sure of it I guess the question is how well you know this shaft right here I'm still kind of scratching my head on now that the pump's apart you know you can't see the shaft at all it almost looks like it doesn't serve a purpose so the rebuild kit came with a new spring and this little cap that goes over the spring I'm not sure I'm going to use this spring though it's not an oem kit and this brings quite a bit taller so when reassembling it because it's so much taller it's going to be hard to hold this in place while getting the cover on so yeah I don't need those parts we'll stick with the original spring subtle cap that goes on top and this piece here I think it goes like that yep foreign that is one turnout I'm gonna do an extra half one and a half two turns out usually is a good starting point so we'll leave it there this here is the idle set screw and you can see somebody drove that all the way in so I'm going to back that off at least by half all right that should be good so theoretically that's it this should be a running carburetor so we'll give that JB Weld a bit of time to cure and then try it out we'll give the evaporized a chance at Redemption this I think has enough metal left okay I gave the JB Weld a couple days to cure let's see if it holds perfect that'll do the air box also came out pretty well that was 24 hours in the evapor rust so I think we're good to go what I'm going to do to replace the fuel pickup is use this 3 16 line and if I push it all the way up it stays on there nice and tight and on the other end I'm going to use basically a chainsaw filter it's going to be a little more restrictive so that could be an issue and of course the diameter here it's too small for this so I think what I'm going to do is just use a piece of this line which fits it perfectly and then I believe the outer diameter of this line should fit snugly into there but first I need to cut this to size so it would be approximately right about there so this is just a temporary solution unless of course it works but all kidding aside the person I got this go-kart from Bill he is a local subscriber and he actually found a third tank and that tank matches perfectly as far as what I need with the fourth bolt hole and the shape as well for the carburetor that I'm using it doesn't have the baffles but I think that'll be okay the tank looks to be in really good shape so at some point this will get swapped out for that other tank foreign there we go I also picked up a new kit for the Breather the elbow was missing right here and it was cracked down below so let's see probably just goes like that and we got a few linkages here we have one for the choke which we can install later this one runs to the governor arm so we'll do that when we install on the engine then this one here connects to this bracket and should clip in like that you can see that was split okay and it was going too easy I did forget to install the shields right here so I think I can still do it without uninstalling everything and starting over so let's give it a try foreign [Applause] all right let's see how it runs foreign up a bit foreign sounds good but I did shut it down because I noticed fuel coming out that hole right there usually there's a screw right there holding that control panel in place so I'm just going to put that screw in place and then try restarting it foreign foreign foreign thank you not too bad carburetor it's running the engine well I ended up setting that pilot jet back to one turnout the engine definitely ran best in that position and reinstalling this bolt it did stop that leak but the new fuel cap couldn't help notice but it was leaking so we'll have to look into that a bit more but all things considered you know I didn't give this engine much hope when I first opened this thing up it looked pretty bad and I thought for sure this thing was pretty much DOA but yeah at this point it's nearly a hundred percent anyway I'm going to turn my attention to that torque converter I know that plate isn't going in on its own so I'm going to reinstall the driven pulley and the belt and I'm hoping that's the missing piece so we'll get that installed we'll try it again and if it's still not working right then we're going to have to take that apart next I think it's earned it foreign before I get that to our converter on I'm going to put the controls back on as well as the air box so first thing I need to remove this Old Wire from the old ignition coil and install the new seems like this one's stripped out a bit so I'm going to try to find a longer Bolt because I didn't have that problem before I put the control panel in but now that it's there it just can't grab enough threads foreign a try here on the right it was quite a bit longer I had to cut it down cut it about the same length as the one that came out but you can see the original one the threads ended yeah at least a quarter inch before the actual bolt ended so yeah hopefully this will do it perfect foreign The Driven pulley it's just held on by these four studs to the engine block but these are pretty corroded and the threads are not in very good shape so I've cut down three bolts I've got one more to go then we should be able to get that pulley back in place [Music] foreign foreign definitely not a good belt but torque converter may not be good either so let's at least test it before deciding if I need a new torque converter foreign oh okay I've got the engine bolted down there's no chain on the sprocket so this cart is not going to move but I do want to get the engine started and just see how these pulleys react and see if this torque converter is any good foreign okay well not exactly what I was hoping to see the driven pulley it wasn't doing really anything I was expecting as the RPMs picked up that this pulley would open up decreasing its diameter and it didn't do that so although this one seemed to be working the plate was coming out and it was taking up the slack and engaging this pulley here without this one opening this isn't going to function properly so yeah potentially there is something wrong here maybe it's the belt or maybe it's the fact we don't have a chain you know a load on this pulley so I think I'm going to install the chain this did come with a chain which I wasn't sure was right but I just put it on the sprocket and it seems to be exactly the right size except for the fact I don't have a master link but when looking over this little piece here I found that this one actually has two Master links so I'm going to steal one of those we'll get this chain installed and we'll try this again show this a proper tool for this but I don't have it foreign foreign [Music] foreign ly adding the chain it made no difference this driven pulley it seems to be seized and I haven't given up on it yet potentially it might work itself out but for now I'm going to ignore this issue because now that the axle is spinning I can see there's other issues as well the sprocket seems to be warped and the axle as well especially on the left side I saw it kind of wobbling quite a bit so it could be the axle could be the tire might be both I'm not sure but you know the good news is this it's not a generator it's a fun toy and all these parts are replaceable it's just a matter of how much money you're willing to spend so that most likely will come to that but not for now we're actually pretty close to getting this thing going under its own power even though this issue exists you know this isn't going to function as a CVT but it is still functioning as a clutch so we should be able to drive around but before doing that still a few things I need to do I need to hook up The Kill wire and actually test it make sure it works the cable for the throttle control needs to be actually replaced because the cable snapped up here so I have a new one of those I think it's the right part but I guess we'll find out in a minute and of course the tires they're in terrible shape they need to be replaced surprisingly the ones on the left are holding air but this one it leaks out after a couple days so that's usable for now but this one it comes out as fast as I put it in so yeah I need to replace the tube and it should be pretty easy but yeah the bolts I'm sure are rusted in so it may not be as easy as I think anyway let's get going on the kill switch on the steering wheel we'll fix that cable up and then finish it up with that tire let's just clean some of this rust off before testing it actually I'm just going to replace it it's pitted pretty bad so yeah let's just replace it gonna test the circuit with this multimeter set to test continuity I've got this black lead connected over to the wire that I just added the new terminal on and the other lead I'm going to use to test the switch there's two wires coming out a yellow which looks like goes down into the frame and I think that's the green wire on the other end and then there's another connection here to ground so I'm going to attach the probe there we'll flick the switch and see if we get anything out of that so let's check the yellow wire we get nothing but we do get a connection on the black wire that's interesting because this wire if this is the one going to the back there should be no connection over to ground and it seems like there isn't so what am I missing here let's cut the zip tie ah we get two yellow okay that explains it so the top one here that should be the green wire in the back and it is and this is the ground right here which there should be no connection unless I turn the switch to off so the switch it works it's just a really dirty connection to ground so yeah let's um get the screw off clean this terminal up and we'll try it again and unfortunately the nut on the other side it's completely stripped out so the bolt has to be cut off but before I do that let's actually just clean up a spot right here see if there is a connection to ground before making that decision [Music] yeah it's nothing so I need to cut this off I think all the rust in there is just preventing a good ground foreign that was a waste of time the wheel I had assumed it was just plastic on a metal shaft and once that bolt was removed it would lift right off but that's not the case the wheel actually has metal molded in it and it's rust jacked together so yeah this wheel I don't think is ever going to come out so I'll put a new bolt in just in case and instead I'll try to pick up a ground maybe from this frame rail right there I started with the switch because I thought it would be easy anyway I moved the probe from this wire here to a clean spot on the frame and just wanted to double check that we have a good connection to ground for the engine which we do and to the frame up here and we do so as long as I attach this wire here when I turn the switch to off it should send a good ground to this wire right here and if that's connected to this one which runs to the coil that should shut the engine down [Music] foreign this is just an insulated post it's where you connect the ground from the switch to the coil [Applause] thank you okay we're one step closer we can cross that off the list let's try getting this cable off there's a bolt going through the pedal holding this on so that needs to come off as well as that one right there foreign just Loosely assembling it on this end for now and we'll fine-tune this once we have it attached to the engine looks like it's going to be long enough okay so this piece I think drops in right up here Maybe like that and then this gets screwed onto that little piece I just inserted so let's see tiny fingers would be good yeah I think I got it so idle is to the left I have the pedal up right now so I'm going to tighten that to lock the cable in place and last but not least the throttle return spring yeah I think it's perfect we're getting full throttle and the pedal is hitting against the stop when it reaches full throttle so that's where you want it to be so I'm going to lock this down tight and I'm going to replace this with a Nylock nut and then we can move on to the tire I tried removing the bushing from the old cable it goes right in the middle and just helps everything pivot real nice unfortunately I completely butchered it so that's out you know I tried a few others that I have and none of them fit properly but I did find a big pen and cut it to size so it's a temporary solution but it'll just help this move smoothly and not bind up foreign theoretically this should be easy it's a split Rim only three bolts holding it on so let's see if any of those come out foreign foreign oh a little bit of water just want to get the debris out so we don't immediately pop the new tube [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign foreign might need a new seat I think there's supposed to be something under here well there was I see little signs of maybe what used to be a piece of plywood because there's nothing under here except foam so I'm gonna see if I can get this off and lay a piece of wood down or something foreign [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] foreign oh [Music] [Music] foreign foreign foreign what can I say this thing's a lot of fun but I had to shut it down I was getting a little concerned that I might fall through that definitely needs to be addressed there's still a bunch of things that have to be done to this but you know my goal was to get this thing mechanically a hundred percent and I think we're there everything is working more or less the way that it's supposed to I think the only thing that's still an outstanding issue is the driven pulley it's not opening up so it's limiting the top speed but even so it was going pretty fast as is so I'm happy with the way this turned out so I'm going to cut the video for now I'm sure there's going to be a part two to this it needs to be painted we need a new seat and new tires at a minimum maybe a little more so I hope this video helps someone thanks for watching I think I'm going to give the kids a few weeks playing on this before starting part two they're having a lot of fun with this the way that it is and I hate to just tear it apart try to make it a little bit better you know as it is it's pretty good maybe it'll free up probably nothing go ahead [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Applause] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Applause] foreign [Applause] getting a little daring getting a little daring just don't sit in front of us foreign

Channel: James Condon

Views: 195,421

Keywords: Briggs and Stratton, Briggs, CVT, Comet TC88, Comet Torque Converter, Comet, Dingo, Fixed, Go-Kart, How To, How-To, Ignition Coil, Magneto, JB Weld, L-Head, Manco Dingo, Mango, Mouse Damage, No Compression, No Fuel, No Spark, Rusted Tank, Small Engine, TC88, Torque Converter, Troubleshooting, Will Not Start, Champion RJ19LM, NGK BR2-LM, Flat Head, Go Kart, Go Cart

Id: WV6zTBpAb0E

Length: 101min 44sec (6104 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 15 2022