Making glow toys from scratch

this video has been sponsored by brilliant as a kid I was fascinated by things that were able to glow in the dark because to me it was kind of like magic it blew my mind that simple plastic toys and stickers could somehow collect and store light energy I recently tried looking for some of the old Glo toys that I had as a kid especially a little dinosaur those my favorite but I think my mom gave him away years ago this made me a bit sad and I went online to try to find some replacements I was able to find some that looked kind of similar and I was about to get them but then I realized it could actually be a lot more fun if I made them myself at first the idea of making something that glowed seemed almost impossible to me and I assumed that it had to be super complicated and difficult however it turns out that at least chemically it can be surprisingly simple one of the most common globe powders is just made from something called zinc sulphide which is a relatively cheap and naturally occurring mineral I really thought that there had to be some super exotic or uncommon elements involved but it was apparently possible with just generic zinc and sulfur with a quick google search it was easy to find a lot of places that were selling the zinc sulphide glow powder so to make my toys I could have just bought some mixed it into some plastic and poured it all into a mold but to me that was almost the same thing is just buying the premade glow toys except with some added steps what I wanted to do was make my own glow powder completely from scratch to do this I was gonna have to make a zinc sulphide and I found that the easiest way was to burn a mixture of sulfur and zinc metal so I went and got my zinc powder and I added about 50 grams of it to a beaker along with about 24 grams of sulfur to mix them I just kept pouring it back and forth between two beakers until the color looked like it was even after that it was pretty much good to go and I started out by testing just a small amount of it it was supposed to be possible to set it off by just touching it with a hot glass rod but when I tried it it didn't seem to work very well I held it there for a bit and it eventually kind of started working but it almost immediately died out I thought that maybe the glass rod just wasn't hot enough or something so I tried it with some red-hot metal this didn't turn out to be a great method either but after abandoning it for a bit it did eventually work these methods clearly weren't working very well and I found that it was a lot better to just blast it with a blowtorch this made it way easier to get started but it didn't fix the major problem that this method sucked regardless of the way that it was ignited it always sprayed the zinc sulfide everywhere and the zinc sulfide was also really impure I knew this just by looking at it because pure zinc sulfide is white and this definitely wasn't some nice clean and white powder the reason for this is that it's just not possible for these powders to react perfectly together and in the presence of air a bunch of it also reacts with the oxygen and it just ends up being the mass it was still very fun to do though and I'd made a whole bunch of it so I did it a few more times now to see if it worked I shot it with a black light which should cause it to light up however what I had here looked like it was almost entirely dead except for just a few spots I then turned off the light to see if it would glow and there was absolutely nothing but that actually didn't surprise me this is because regardless of its purity zinc sulfide on its own just isn't able to glow to get it to glow it has to be doped with a metal and it's common to use things like copper or silver the usual procedure is to first make the zinc sulphide and then in a second step infuse it with the metal but what I had here was really bad quality if I tried to dope a metal into it it would almost definitely end up being a complete failure and it was also so impure that trying to clean it up probably wasn't really feasible either I did see a few videos though or before burning it a small amount of copper metal was mixed into the zinc and sulfur and it kind of seemed to work I figured that I might as well try it out myself and it was almost exactly the same thing that I just did the only difference was that along with the zinc and sulfur I also mixed in a small amount of powdered copper metal like before I shot it with a blacklight and I think it's safe to say that it wasn't a huge success I don't even know how it's possible but it was somehow worse than before despite this I was still hopeful that some of it might glow but no my results here were definitely a lot worse than some of the videos that I saw but they also weren't very surprising I honestly pretty much expected it to turn out this way because to make some actually decent glow-in-the-dark zinc sulphide it's unfortunately a lot harder than just mixing some things together and lighting them on fire it's a much more difficult and finicky process where I'd first have to make some pure zinc sulfide and then carefully incorporate a metal like copper into its crystal structure the biggest thing that makes this process so hard is that the zinc sulphide needs to be extremely pure and even a very small amount of contamination from metals like iron can completely ruin the glow so the first step was to make pure zinc sulfide and the best way that I found to do this was to start with another zinc compound called zinc sulfate the reason for this is that unlike vising sulfide zinc sulfate is soluble in water and it's much easier to purify so the plan was to make some really pure zinc sulfate and then convert that directly into pure zinc sulfide this whole purification part was based on a few videos that I saw here on YouTube and it was pretty much the only decent method that I found the guy was also apparently able to use the zinc sulfide that he made to make glow-in-the-dark powder and it all looked pretty promising now to get the zinc sulfate it was thankfully really cheap and easy to find and I was able to get a pound of it from Amazon for $13 a pound of it was way more than I was ever gonna need but I actually had a hard time finding anyone selling less than but either way I now had my zinc sulfate and the first thing that I had to do was clean it up to get started I added about half a liter of distilled water to a very clean beaker and I turned on the stirring I then added 125 grams of the zinc sulfate and I cranked up the heating after just a few minutes it was already quite warm and I quickly cleaned the sides with a bit more distilled water this was about 10 minutes later and in theory if this were pure zinc sulfate it would have been both perfectly clear and colorless this definitely wasn't what I had and the zinc sulfate was obviously not the highest grade stuff but that didn't really matter because regardless of how pure or impure it might have been the cleanup was gonna be the same the first step to clean it was to add a very small amount of something called potassium permanganate the moment that I added it it all started turning brown and this told me that it was definitely reacting with something this is because normally potassium permanganate has a really strong purple color and it only turns brown if it's getting degraded over the next few minutes it turned almost black and I pulled out some of it with a pipette to check the color if there were even a tiny amount of the permanganate left it would have been purple or at least slightly pink however what I had looked like it was just a mix of yellow and brown this told me that all the permanganate had probably reacted and that I had to add some more I then let it stir for about 10 minutes and I waited to see if the color would disappear what I was doing here was oxidizing a lot of the different metal contaminants that were in there especially iron and converting them into a form that was insoluble in water this would cause them to separate out as a solid and to get rid of them I just have to filter them off I think the major contaminant here was like I just said from iron and I think that a lot of the dark brown almost black stuff was just iron hydroxide a lot of it though was also manganese dioxide which formed as the permanganate reacted and broke down as the permanganate degree it also unfortunately released potassium ions which dissolved into the solution this was adding a potassium impurity that wasn't there before but this wasn't gonna be an issue and I'll talk more about that later on after 10 minutes I checked the color again and it was still a bit purple so the next thing to do was crank up the heat and to boil it for about an hour this extra heat just made the permanganate even more aggressive and it made sure that it would oxidize everything that it possibly could when it was done I took it off the hot plate and I put it into some ice water while it was still hot most of the oxides and the impurities were able to stay dissolved but as it cooled they all started to separate out I let it sit there for a while and when it got to just around room temperature I poured it all into a coffee filter this would get rid of all that solid junk and in a bowl underneath I collected all the liquid when it was done I had a solution of zinc sulfate with little-to-no iron but it definitely wasn't pure yet it was dark purple from all the permanganate that I had added and there was still more metal contamination that I had to get rid of so there was still a bunch of cleaning up to do to do this I put it all back into a beaker with a stir bar turned on the stirring and I dumped in 30 grams of powdered zinc metal this was the exact same stuff that I'd used before when burning it with the sulfur what I was doing now was the complete opposite of the permanganate were instead of oxidizing everything I was trying to reduce it to a certain degree the zinc was trying to react with the permanganate but because there wasn't any extra acid around it was having a really hard time to get it going I could have added some acid but I figured that the best thing to do was to instead add a small amount of hydrogen peroxide this caused the rest of the permanganate to fall apart and it all turned into more manganese dioxide potassium hydroxide oxygen gas and water like before the manganese dioxide all separated out and later on it would just get filtered off along with the zinc metal the potassium hydroxide would dissolve into the solution though and it would stay as an impurity this would add on to all the potassium that was already there from the last step but this shouldn't be a problem and again I'll talk about it more in a bit I let it stir here for another 20 minutes and this gave the zinc some time to attack the other metal impurities that might be there for zinc sulfate these usually tend to be things like copper lead nickel cadmium and cobalt vising metal is able to react with these metal ions and reduce them back to their solid metallic form this caused them to separate out but because there was already so much zinc flying around it wasn't possible to see much happening when it was done it looked almost the same and I again filtered it using a coffee filter it was able to trap almost everything but the solution was still a bit cloudy so I waited for it to be almost done and then I passed it all through the same filter again this time it was way better but I could still see some stuff in it while editing now and seeing it on video I find it really hard to see but in person there was definitely still some metal dust or something else in there so I decided to just cover the top and to wait for it to settle out overnight this was the next day and it sparked to see any difference at all but it had all sank to the bottom to get rid of it I just poured the liquid into a new beaker and that was pretty much it what I had now was a very clean solution of zinc sulfate and the only real contaminant should be from those potassium ions which were all still there now what I had to do was convert this pure zinc sulfate into the zinc sulfide that I actually wanted this was thankfully relatively easy to do and I just had to bubble some hydrogen sulfide gas into the zinc sulfate unfortunately though I didn't just have hydrogen sulfide gas sitting around ready to be used and I was gonna have to make it myself to do this I had to go back to burning things like I did with the zinc and sulfur however instead of using zinc powder I had to use iron to prepare it it was pretty much the exact same as before except it was a different ratio between the iron and the sulfur this mixture was also a lot more sensitive than the other one and it could be easily set off by just touching it with a hot glass rod I've done this reaction many times before and it honestly has to be one of my favorites I always find it oddly mesmerizing and I really like the sound that it makes it also generates a lot of heat and you can sometimes feel it even from a few feet away what was happening here was very similar to what we saw with the zinc except this time because it was with iron it was making iron sulphide this iron sulphide unlike the zinc version reacts really easily with acids and that can make a lot of hydrogen sulfide gas by just dripping some acid on it when it had cooled down I used the small fork and I've broke it into some smaller pieces I then weed out about a hundred grams of it and I dumped it all into a flask the flask was then loaded up with a stopper and addition funnel and a gas adapter and I added some clamps after that I filled the gas wash bottle with water and I connected it to the gas adapter this way all the hydrogen sulfide that was made in this flask would get pushed out through the gas adapter and then through some water which would help clean it up a bit the other end of this wash bottle was then linked to the upper portion of another wash bottle for this one though I didn't include any water or even the bottle itself all the hydrogen sulfide that would be coming out here would instead be pumped directly into that pure zinc sulfate solution at this point I felt that things were pretty much good to go so I poured some dilute hydrochloric acid into the addition funnel now to get things going all I had to do was open the addition funnel this led out some of the acid which immediately started reacting and bubbling when it hit the iron sulphide I could see it all bubbling through the wash bottle which was not only cleaning it but also helping me gauge how much of it I was making then after that it was all getting pushed into the zinc sulfate solution the moment that it touched it it started reacting in forming zinc sulphide which wasn't soluble in water this caused it to separate out as some really fine particles and it was also super white and not a dirty yellow like we saw before it was also making sulfuric acid though which was able to react with the zinc sulfide and turn it back into zinc sulfate in the beginning this wasn't really a problem but the solution was slowly getting more and more acidic eventually after reacting with probably less than 30 percent of the zinc sulfate it would hit a point where there was too much acid then after that any music sulphide would just get turned back into the sulfate so the reaction would eventually stop but at that point there would still be probably more than 70% of the zinc sulfate still just sitting there having a reaction shut down early like that is usually a bad thing but in this case it was totally fine this was because any other metal impurities that might be there were also trying to react with the hydrogen sulfide and if they did a lot of them would also form insoluble sulfides and separate out along with the zinc sulfide the largest impurity was from all that potassium that I mentioned earlier but that actually wasn't an issue because potassium sulfide isn't stable it was just breaking down again almost the moment that it formed and it was basically just staying as potassium ions the concern that I had was more for metal ions like manganese cobalt or copper because those could easily form insoluble sulfides this of course wouldn't be good but by always keeping a lot of zinc around it meant that the hydrogen sulfide was just always more likely to bond into a zinc than any of the impurities so basically from all this I'll be getting less zinc sulfide in the end but the stuff that I do get should be more pure now as a quick point of safety what I was doing here looked relatively simple and mundane but it was actually quite dangerous and I had to be very careful this is because the toxicity of hydrogen sulfide gas is comparable to cyanide humans are really sensitive to its gross and rotten egg smell which helps us avoid it but we also get quickly desensitized to it so if you're around it for a bit you usually completely stop smelling it even in potentially deadly concentrations I was doing this in a really strong fume hood which would keep me safe and I also had test strips set up in the room to monitor if any of it was building up but it was still something that made me a bit nervous when all the iron sulfide was eventually used up I considered the reaction done now to separate all the zinc sulfide that I had made I just had to do another filtration this time though I didn't just use a coffee filter and do it by gravity and I instead used a vacuum filter and a proper filter paper after I pulled everything through I also watched a zinc sulfide a few times with distilled water I was eventually left with all this pasty looking stuff and I transferred it all to a bowl I now had to completely dry it and I just threw it into an oven at a low heat for a few hours when it was done it was really dry and crispy I then quickly crushed it up a bit and I put it all into a small bottle I went ahead and weighed it and it was only fifteen point five grams where in theory I could have gotten about 68 however this low yield was expected because I had chosen to make less of it in exchange for what was hopefully a higher purity now what I wanted to do first with the zinc sulfide was to see if it were able to glow so I turned off the lights and I shot it with some UV and well it did absolutely nothing but that was pretty much what I expected because as we saw earlier it doesn't work with just zinc sulfide for it to glow it had to be doped with a metal and I had a few different options the most common ones are silver for blue light manganese for a reddish orange and copper for green I felt that it was important for my glow toys to have that classic green color so I had to go with copper for the doping process I had never really done it before but based on another YouTube video that I saw it seemed to be relatively straightforward the first step was to make a very dilute solution of copper ions and to do this I needed a water soluble copper compound it seemed like everyone went with copper sulfate so I did as well and I found some supposedly pure stuff on Amazon it said that it was 99.9% pure and it also wasn't very expensive and it arrived a few days later even though it said that it was pure I assumed that I was gonna have to clean it up but when I opened it it did look really pure it was all still crystalline and for almost any other project I would have just used it immediately without any second thoughts but for this one as I've mentioned many times already even an extremely small level of contamination from other metals like iron could completely ruin everything I really wanted to just say screw it and use it right away but there was a very real chance that it could destroy all the zinc sulfide that I just spent days making but on the other side I also didn't want to potentially waste I'm purifying it when it might be fine so what I decided to do was try it on a small scale with only two grams of the zinc sulfide if it worked and I was able to get it to glow it would not only tell me that the copper sulfate was good enough it would also tell me that I actually made pure zinc sulfide to try this I started by making a copper solution and the amount of copper sulfate that I needed for this was so small that it made me laugh a bit I bought this one kilo bottle for the project but just one medium-sized crystal was gonna be way more than I needed I dropped the crystal into a bottle poured in 50 mils of distilled water and turned on the stirring the colour of copper sulfate is very strong and every time I've worked with it I would get a solution with a really nice blue color however this time what I was making was so diluted that by the time it had all dissolved it didn't look like anything had changed but either way what I had now was a solution of copper sulfate with an insanely low concentration the crystal that I used only weighed 38 milligrams so in every milliliter here there was less than a milligram I then got a beaker added the two grams of zinc sulfide and poured in 20 mils of distilled water I mix this around for a couple minutes and then I added just 2 mils of that copper solution that I just made I mix this again for a couple minutes and then I added four mils of a dilute solution of ammonium chloride the purpose of this ammonium chloride was to act to something called the flux and I'll talk more about it in a few minutes I swirled this all around a bit and when I felt that it was ready I turned on the hot plate what I had to do now was slowly get rid of all the water without bringing it to a boil an hour later it looked like a nice and dry powder and I figured it was done what I had now should be some zinc sulphide powder that was evenly coated with only one point five milligrams of the copper sulfate this was an insanely small amount and it was why was so important to remove all the impurities I really had to have just copper here and even a few milligrams of another metal would have been pretty bad this powder however still won't glow because right now the copper was just physically sitting on the surface of the zinc sulfide for it to glow the copper needs to become part of the zinc sulfide crystal structure and to do this I had to use some fire I loaded everything into a quartz tube and it was important to use quartz here because a regular test tube would have just melted then just for fun I tested it again with a UV light but as expected it did nothing after that I filled the tube with nitrogen gas loosely covered the top with some plastic wrap and I blasted it with a torch until it started glowing yellow I then tried to keep it glowing like this for 10 minutes I had a hard time finding much info about it but it was at this step that the ammonium chloride that I had added was supposed to be helping I only found one reference but it said that in order for the copper to get incorporated into the zinc sulfide there had to be chloride bromide or iodide ions present pure zinc sulphide and copper sulfate though wouldn't have any of these so I had to add at least one of them ammonium chloride was used because it was an easy source of the chloride but also because it breaks down really cleanly any extra ammonium chloride should just decompose into ammonia and hydrogen chloride gas and it shouldn't leave anything behind after firing it I let it slowly cool back down to room temperature as it did this the crystalline structure of the zinc sulfide was changing and it was hopefully incorporating the copper into it when it was finally at room temperature I was ready to test it with the UV again but I was honestly quite nervous I was really scared because if it didn't glow at all I'd have absolutely no idea what to do a total failure could be caused by so many things like impure zinc sulfide a bad doping process impure copper sulfate or even just metal contamination from my glassware and going back and having to test and fix all these things would be an absolute nightmare so I took a deep breath turned on my light and I was really happy to see that it was giving off a nice green color this was a very good sign that it had worked and it meant that the copper had at least in some way incorporated itself into the zinc sulfide however what I was seeing here was just something called fluorescence where the light was being absorbed by the zinc sulfide and the energy was almost immediately getting spit back out as green light fluorescence is extremely fast and there's no storage of energy so the moment the UV light was turned off the green light looked like it disappeared it all disappearing though wasn't necessarily a bad thing because fluorescence isn't what makes things glow in the dark for that we need to have a different process going on called phosphorescence when something's phosphorescent some of the light energy that it absorbs kind of gets stored and it takes a much longer time to re-emit it this delay can be from seconds to as long as hours and it's what causes things to glow after the light source is taken away however it's much weaker than fluorescence and it's usually hard to see if all the lights are on so things were actually looking pretty good and to see if it were phosphorescent I had to get it as dark as possible so I turned off all the lights charged it up for a few seconds and it actually worked I mean it wasn't exactly amazing and it looked like it was dying pretty quickly but I was still really happy to see this before this I tried making it a few other ways and they had all failed miserably so it was pretty exciting to even have something that barely worked so this little trial run was successful but the quality wasn't exactly the best before going into this I knew my results weren't gonna be amazing but this was unacceptably bad it looked like a lot of the powder barely even glowed or didn't at all and the whole thing completely died within about a minute it wasn't even that the camera wasn't picking it up or something it was legitimately a hundred percent this one trial run though gave me a lot of insight into what I could fix and I decided to do a second little trial and to change a few things however this can be very time-consuming and I decided to go with the much riskier shotgun method where I changed multiple variables at the same time it's riskier because if it works then I saved a lot of time but if it doesn't I have absolutely no idea what happened the powder before was a bit grainy and chunky and I felt that this might have contributed to all those dead spots and the general unevenness so the first thing that I did was throw it all into a small blender and I let it run for a few minutes after doing this the powder was definitely a lot finer but while I'm editing this now I noticed that it kind of looks the same on camera I then started the whole doping process but I did it on a smaller scale this time and I used one gram of the zinc sulphide instead of two I also didn't include any ammonium chloride even though just before I said that it was important and I'll explain why in a minute the rest of the drying part was about the same and I loaded it all into a clean quartz tube and filled it with nitrogen a major issue with the other run was the complete inability to heat it evenly so this time I put it into this little paint can forge thing that I made for another video when I was refining gold jewellery this let me use two torches at the same time and to heat the tube a lot more evenly now based on what I said before about the ammonium chloride it would be reasonable to assume that this step wouldn't work without it however in that same paper it said that it was possible for it to still work if there was instead just a bit of zinc oxide present I hadn't added any zinc oxide but during this firing step a small amount of it was definitely being made I had added nitrogen to get the air out of the tube but there was for sure still some oxygen in there that was reacting with the zinc sulphide also nitrogen's later than air and it was probably just floating out anyway and some air was probably getting back in so it was very possible that the zinc oxide was just being made on its own and I didn't have to add anything I really liked this idea of not having to add anything extra and I was also a bit worried that the ammonium chloride that I used might have not been pure enough so I figured I just try not adding it at all and if it turned out to be a total failure that would probably be the reason I blasted it for 10 minutes like before let it cool down to room temperature and then dumped it all out when I tested it not only did it actually work it also looked like it was better than before so this shotgun method actually seemed to work out and it didn't end up being a complete waste of time I think they decide by side comparison with the first run and this one was definitely better it not only had a much brighter initial glow it also lasted a lot longer however I still felt that it could be better so I tried one last time to improve it for this run I did everything in the exact same way as the second one except I heated it for just five minutes instead of ten I wanted to try this because I thought that maybe the zinc sulfide was being exposed to a bit too much oxygen it was good to be reacting some of it but it was almost definitely bad if I were turning too much of it into the zinc oxide the result of this was even better than before and it was both brighter and able to last a lot longer the camera didn't pick it up very well but I could see that this one was still clearly glowing after the other two had completely died at this point I felt that the result was good enough so I treated the rest of the zinc sulphide in the exact same way that I did for this third attempt I was able to fire all of it in just two large batches and once it had cooled to room temperature I dumped it all into a bottle after days of work I was finally done making it and I had a small amount of surprisingly decent glow powder it was definitely still not as good as the stuff that you can buy but honestly it turned out way better than I expected now it was finally time to try and make some glow toys with it and to do this I just had to mix this powder into some plastic resin and then pour it into a mold I still had a bunch of epoxy plastic mix from when I tried to make transparent wood a few years ago and I figured that was fine to use here for the mold I went on Amazon to try and find something interesting I wasn't initially planning to make dinosaurs to replace the ones that I had lost but I ended up really liking this one at first this was the only one that I was gonna get but then I found this and I just had to buy it I don't really know why someone else would want it but it's apparently used to make small decorations for cakes or something I personally didn't think that it was the most attractive mold especially to put on a cake that you were supposed to be eating but maybe that's just me but regardless of that I was kind of excited about it because I could make some creepy glowing babies both the molds arrived a few days later and I was ready to get started the first thing I did was add 20 mils of Part A of the epoxy along with a random amount of the globe powder I had no idea how much I actually had to add but I added almost all of it because I wanted the glow to be as strong as possible I mixed it all up and then I ground it until it looked nice and even after that I pulled it all out and I transferred it all to a beaker I then added 40 mils of the Part B of the epoxy and I mixed it until it started to thicken I then poured it all into the molds and I let it sit overnight to completely Harden the next day I popped them all out of the molds and they looked like they turned out pretty well now to test them and see if they actually worked I charged them up with my blacklight and they were definitely glowing my only issue was that the baby wasn't as creepy as I thought it would be and it also looked like it had a beard for some reason but besides that I was really happy with how everything had turned out these glow toys seem to be as good as the ones that I had as a kid and you could see them pretty clearly in the dark for at least several minutes however I should mention that since I was a kid glow-in-the-dark technology has improved a lot and there's now something that's much better than zinc sulfide for a long time zinc sulfide was the only thing available but now we have strontium illuminates which can glow ten times brighter for 10 times longer the major downside to them is that they're much more expensive and as far as I know I think they're a bit more difficult to make I do plan to try to make it eventually but for now I'm happy with the zinc sulphide based toys which are kind of crappy but also very nostalgic now it might not seem like it but this project was really time-consuming and it took me over a month to put it all together normally I try to post one video per month but this kind of messed up the schedule and I ended up completely missing April what I'm very thankful for though is that because this video is sponsored by brilliant I didn't have to stress too much about having to post something and I was able to take all the time that I needed the last time that I spoke about brilliant was a few months ago and since then I've been using it pretty regularly Brillion offers a lot of mini courses in things like physics chemistry and logic and they do it in a way that I think is fun all their lessons are interactive but what I like the most is that they're concise and they don't overwhelm you with too much information the courses are also chopped up into many small sections so there isn't a huge time commitment I have a few courses that I'm working on and I'm still progressing even when I just go on randomly whenever I get the chance but with all that being said I really do like brilliant and if you're interested in learning something new I definitely recommend trying them out they also have a totally free version that you can use to sample the courses if you like it you can then get the premium which offers a lot more materials and features also if you use my personalized link brilliant org slash Niall read they're offering 20% off on premium for the first 200 signups but anyway I hope you guys enjoyed this video which ended up being way longer than expected and I'll see you on the next one as usual a big thanks goes out to all my supporters on patreon everyone who supports me can see all my new videos at least 24 hours before I post them to YouTube you'll also get access to all the older videos that I had to take down and if you support me with $5 or more you'll get your name at the end like you see here [Music] [Music]

Channel: NileRed

Views: 2,567,898

Rating: 4.9422317 out of 5

Keywords: nile, red, nilered, science, chemistry, dark, zinc, sulfide, copper, silicon, mold, dinosaur, baby, resin, plastic, glow toy, glow in the dark, glow, toy

Id: OfI-XpYAqM0

Length: 39min 1sec (2341 seconds)

Published: Sun May 31 2020