Making ferrofluid from scratch

back in October I became a bit obsessed with ferrofluid and I really wanted to try making it myself so I looked online and I found a bunch of different procedures and it seemed to be quite straightforward however when I tried them none of them seemed to work when a ferrofluid goes near a magnet or just a magnetic field in general it should easily form these weird-looking spikes and it should also still look like a fluid what I made though either just didn't do much of anything or it partially solidified and formed these semi solid spikes I actually thought that this was still kind of cool but it was far from being a proper ferrofluid not being able to make it and the fact that there was no decent recipe for it anywhere honestly really frustrated me so I kind of went into full trihard mode and I started reading every piece of relevant information that I could find then I just started trying different things and about a month later I was eventually successful I was actually able to make some really nice ferrofluid and it spiked even better than the commercial stuff for my last video I had to buy the ferrofluid to get this shot but this time this is the stuff that I made with a side-by-side comparison you can see that the spikes in mine are actually sharper and bigger when it comes to making ferrofluid the general idea is quite simple it's basically just a stable suspension of a magnetic iron compound in a solvent in practice though it's a bit harder and it's not as simple as just mixing these two things together the magnetic iron compound which is usually magnetite has to first be specially prepared as nanoparticles and then chemically coated with something to make them stable so the question now is how did I do it and well that's kind of the point of this video I'm gonna be showing you guys exactly what I did and the first step was to make the magnetite to do this I needed a source of iron three-plus and iron 2 plus ions in my last video I used ferric chloride that I made for the iron 3 plus and ferrous sulfate that I bought for the iron 2 plus however this really wasn't the best way to do it preparing both of them myself requires a lot of time and effort and neither of them end up being super pure I that it was way easier and cheaper to just use circuit board etchant this stuff is really easy to get and I picked up four litres of it from a local store for only about fifty dollars it's about 40% ferric chloride aka iron 3 chloride and I use it directly as my iron three-plus source to get the iron two-plus though I had to make it myself from the 3 + h n't but it was quite easy all I had to do was reduce these three plus ions to 2 plus ions using steel wool so into a beaker I poured in some of the ferric chloride and I also dumped in some steel wall it started reacting almost immediately and the iron 3 was being reduced to iron 2 in doing so to iron 3 ions were turning into 3 iron 2 ions which meant that the concentration was increasing a lot of procedures that I saw online though didn't take this at all into account and they assumed that the concentration was staying the same however in the end I was gonna have 1.5 times more iron to ions than the iron 3 that I started with and this was very important to be aware of this is because later on when I make the magnetite I'm gonna have to mix the iron to solution that I made with more iron 3 and the ratio between the two is very important messing this up especially by a huge factor like 1.5 would definitely lead to poor quality magnetite and ruin the whole preparation this process was exothermic meaning it released heat and because of this the solution slowly heated up this extra heat was actually a good thing though because it caused the reaction to go a lot faster over the course of just several minutes the dark red orange color from the iron 3 slowly disappeared and it started turning green from all the iron to the basic idea here was to keep adding the wall until it pretty much stopped reacting and then to just let it sit there for a bit I came back about 10 minutes later and now the green color was getting a lot more obvious all I did was just stir it around and then I let it sit for something like another 30 minutes by now it looked like the red-orange color was pretty much all gone and it was probably getting close to being done however I wanted to be really sure that there was no iron 3 left so I let it sit overnight this was what I had in the morning and it wasn't exactly beautiful there was still a lot of steel wool left but there was also this whitish green solid that had formed which I think was just iron to chloride I'm guessing there just wasn't enough water to dissolve it all and it started precipitating out this was of course quite easy to fix though and I just added some more distilled water I mixed it around as thoroughly as I could and then like before I just let it sit around for a bit it eventually separated and I saw that I had this really nice green solution and now the next step was to get rid of all this extra junk I did this by just passing it all through a regular coffee filter and I drained it directly into the bottle that I was gonna store it in when everything had filtered through I washed the beaker the steel wool in the filter and the filter itself with a bunch of distilled water when I was done doing that I took away the funnel and I topped everything off with more distilled water until I got to the level that I pre marked on the bottle this gave me a total volume of about 300 milliliters and they let me calculate the relative concentration of this new iron to solution for those that are interested I've included all of the calculations that I did here along with some extra details but anyway after this I dropped in some iron nails this iron to solution is easily oxidized back to iron 3 just by oxygen in the air however when these nails are added it can reduce things back to being iron - at this point though the iron to solution was ready and I could now actually get things started in my last video I used my hot plate to stir things but I found that it wasn't nearly fast or strong enough especially to do it on larger scales so I went and bought a nice overhead mixer from Amazon which was basically just a high-tech milkshake maker also from ebay I picked up a cheap Teflon covered stir rod okay so now equipment wise I was all set up but to actually make the magnetite I just needed other ingredient this was concentrated ammonia solution which is usually around 28% and I picked up mine online now to get things started I filled up this container with about 3 litres of distilled water and I turned on some weak stirring then I added 60 mils of the iron to solution followed by 75 mils of the iron 3 and I let it stir for another 10 minutes during this time I set up an addition funnel and I filled it with about a hundred grams of the concentrated ammonia also you can see here that at this point the RPM of the mixer was at 463 when the 10 minutes were up I increased the stirring to about 1200 and I opened the addition funnel almost immediately it formed a bunch of dark solid but the mixer quickly scattered it and it disappeared as more was added though it started sticking around and the whole thing eventually turned to brown this was because when the basic ammonia was added the pH slowly increased when he got to above around 4 it started reacting with the iron 3 ions to make Brown an insoluble iron 3 hydroxide as more ammonia was added the iron 3 ions were all eventually converted and the pH continued to increase when it got to around 9 it started converting the iron to ions to iron 2 hydroxide but these didn't exist for very long almost immediately after forming they combined with the iron 3 hydroxide to make black magnetite now if all I wanted to do was make some generic magnetite I wouldn't have needed this whole setup I could have just directly mixed my iron 2 in iron 3 and even without stirring dumped in the ammonia the reason that I did it this way though was because I needed the magnetite to form as nano particles this part of the process was surprisingly finicky though and I found that even just small changes in things exter speed or how fast they added the base could really affect the final result in general I wanted to stir it as fast as I possibly could because as the stir rate increases particle size tends to decrease however the faster I stirred it the more air got mixed into the reaction which caused more iron to to get oxidized to iron 3 this altered the ratio of iron 3 to iron 2 and if this wasn't accounted for the quality of the magnetite would be affected for magnetite the perfect ratio between iron 3 and I and 2 is 2 to 1 what I did instead though was used a lot more iron 2 and I added it as a ratio of 1 point 7 to 1 this way when it oxidized and became iron 3 it would then be able to just combine with some of the excess iron 2 this gave me a bit of a buffer zone and it allowed the reaction to be a lot more tolerant to oxygen however when the reaction was done I also didn't want excess iron to still floating around the speed that I headed the base had also affected particle size but this too was dependent on the stir rate a faster addition could lead to smaller particles however if the stirring weren't fast enough it could cause larger ones to form instead so basically if I stirred it too quickly I might get too much oxidation but if I stirred it too slowly the particle size might become too big on top of this there were other variables like how much extra water I had to include in this reaction and things like temperature and I had to find a balance between all these factors it's definitely still far from perfect but what I found worked was to do it at room temperature with about a 20 times dilution a stir rate of about 1200 like I said before and to add the base over the course of 20 minutes adding the base did cause the mixture to slowly thicken though so over the course of this I slowly increased the stirring to around 1,500 so 20 minutes later I was done adding all the ammonia and then it let it stir for another 15 minutes while I was waiting though I prepared the solution that it would use to stabilize the nanoparticles this was done using alayich acid which I got from eBay as well as some more of the concentrated ammonia solution so into a beaker I added about 15 grams of alayich acid followed by 20 mils of water and 10 mils of the ammonia almost immediately the ammonia reacted with the oleic acid to form a soap called ammonium Olie 8 I stirred this around until it became a nice and thick goo and it was basically ready almost just been 15 minutes I went back to the reaction and I filled the addition funnel with 15 grams more of the concentrated ammonia all of this ammonia was quickly added within about a minute and when it was done I checked the pH and I saw that it was nice and basic probably just below 10 I then took away the funnel and I dumped in all of the soap that I just made it has a tendency to get stuck inside the beaker though so to get it all out I had to wash it a couple times with distilled water I then let it stir over the next 20 minutes or so and during this time I slowly increased the rpm up to about 1900 what was happening here was an interaction between the ammonium Oly 8 soap molecules and the magnetite nanoparticles the charged polar ends of the ammonium olie 8 were being attracted to the surface of the magnetite this caused them to adsorb to the surface of them and to stick out their long hydrophobic tails one of the biggest issues with magnetite nanoparticles is they tend to want to aggregate together and to stop being nanoparticles with the ammonium oleate on their surface though and with all these tails sticking out the particles are stabilized because they're physically being blocked from coming together on the surface I started seeing a lot of brown stuff which can be a bit scary because it might indicate some unwanted oxidation I think it was mostly just soapy foam though that was filled with extremely small particles of magnetite I of course could be wrong about that and it could be because of oxidation but I just don't think that's the case I originally took away the funnel because as this whole thing mixed it slowly puffed up with foam and I didn't want it getting in the way but now that it was almost done and it seemed to be relatively stable I brought it back this time though instead of filling it with concentrated ammonia I did it with dilute muriatic acid this was made by just mixing one volume of the concentrated acid with two volumes of distilled water then once it had been about 20 minutes I started adding the acid right now this mixture was still very basic with a lot of excess ammonia and this was what the acid attacked first this produced a bunch ammonium chloride and the pH slowly decreased when most of the ammonia was eventually consumed it then started attacking unreacted ammonium Olie ate soap as well as the ammonium Olie aid that was on the surface of the magnetite in both of these cases it converted it back to being oily oleic acid which was completely insoluble in water this caused the magnetite to slowly separate out and the goal was to bring the pH down to a bit below neutral so around 6 to 7 for the majority of this acid addition though things were pretty uneventful and it didn't look like much was happening all I did was just check the pH every few minutes to keep track of its progress I also occasionally refilled the funnel with more 10% acid because it needed more than I could initially fit in it when it did get close to being done a lot of the soap foam had disappeared and the coded magnetite particles started separating from the water in all the procedures that I read online none of them used acid and they instead just did it by heating this is because around 85 or 90 C ammonia moly 8 starts to break down back into ammonia and oleic acid the high heat then drives all the ammonia out of the water and when it's eventually all gone the solution is around neutral however I tried this in my last video and with some other test runs and I never really found that it worked it also just pushes a lot of ammonia gas into the air which can of course be a hazard on top of this heating large amounts of water like this can be a pain and it can take a really long time so using acid is not only easier safer and faster but in my experience it actually gave better results this finding is partially backed up by a random paper that I found which compared temperature with the quality of the oleic acid coding they found that it was directly related where as you increase the temperature the quality got worse and worse when it did eventually get to around the neutral point the colors suddenly changed the foam all very quickly turned white and a lot of magnetite started separating out this wasn't immediately evident though because it was still stirring pretty strongly but when I turned it off it all quickly sank to the bottom at this point all the magnetite was ready and now I just had to separate it from all the water and clean it up a bit to do this it was actually quite easy and all I needed was a magnet distilled water and some rubbing alcohol the first step was to get rid of all that extra water so into a beaker I dumped off as much as I could then using a magnet I pulled out most of the particles there were some that were still floating around but anything that didn't get almost immediately pulled out was only weakly magnetic and I didn't want it anyway this water was then dumped off with the help of the magnet and I did the same thing again on the third time though I was actually able to include a lot of the magnetite that was sitting at the bottom and because of this the separation with the magnet was a lot more interesting the goal now is to separate all the magnetite into roughly three equal portions ideally I would have just done it as one large batch but the strongest magnet that I had wasn't strong enough to hold this much magnetite what I had in the beaker at this point was probably the max that this magnet could handle so once it had separated I took it away drain off the water and I got a new beaker into this one I pour it in what looked like the same amount did the same thing with the magnet and then got a third beaker to this last one I added the rest and I also washed the container with a bit of water to make sure that it got out as much as possible when I put the magnet to it it separated out like before but there was a lot more here than the other ones so once I was done and I had them all lined up like this I tried to even it out now the next step was to wash the magnetite but because the process is the same for all three I'm just gonna show you what I did for one of them in general though the process was really simple I basically just had to add distilled water and mix it around after doing this for a bit and when I felt that I had broken up all the solid pieces I put a magnet under it and I counted to about five seconds the highly magnetic particles separated out really quickly but the weaker ones needed more time so not only did this let me clean up the magnetite and wash away reaction side products it also helped me weed out some of the crappier particles this water wash was done a total of three times and then I moved on to washing it with isopropanol what I did here was pretty much exactly the same except I found that with the first couple washings with the alcohol it always takes a bit longer for the magnetite to separate so for these instead of waiting about five seconds before dumping it off I waited about 15 or so by the third one though it was a lot quicker and the alcohol was also pretty much completely colorless all the washing steps were now done but I had to somehow get it all out of the beaker and into this bowl doing this manually though with a spoon or something is a huge pain I found that the easiest and also the cleanest way was just to add some more alcohol mix it around and dump it into the ball I then separated the alcohol with a magnet and dumped it all back into the beaker after doing this a few times pretty much all of the magnetite was eventually transferred with the magnet still stuck to it I put the bowl upside down to drain away some of the alcohol I then did the exact same washing process on the other two batches and I put them here when I was done about ten minutes later it looked like most of the alcohol had drained out of them but there still was a decent amount in there it was really important to get them completely dry though and to do this I used a vacuum chamber this was the chamber that I used and I got it from Amazon for around $100 the pump that I used was also from Amazon and I got it a while ago when I was working on my transparent wood project along with this it was also important to get some calcium chloride drying agent and I picked him up from Home Depot so now to the chamber the first thing to do was to dump in a decent amount of the calcium chloride and then on top of this I made a small platform using styrofoam and a piece of cardboard I put in all the bowls with the magnetite and I also mixed them around a bit then I closed the chamber and I turned on the pump but I didn't let it go to a full vacuum because sometimes this can cause things to splatter I instead went to a certain point and then left the valve only slightly open so that the pressure would slowly decrease by the time that I got to a full vacuum it looked like he was behaving itself so I fully opened the valve after pumping on it like this for about five minutes it looked like most of the alcohol was gone and I closed the valve again a few hours later I repress Erised the chamber opened it up and mix things around this wasn't really necessary to do but I did find that it does help speed things up a bit after doing that though I put the lid back on pulled another vacuum and I left it overnight any alcohol or water that still remained just slowly evaporated and it was continually picked up by the calcium chloride at the bottom by the next morning it was ready so I opened it up and I pulled everything out at this point it was a really dry powder and I scraped off as much as I could from each ball and combined it all into one I also weighed it and found that it was a total of about 26 grams when I first started making ferrofluids I assumed that the magnetite at this point was gonna be really oily and gross however it wasn't like that at all and it was just a regular dry powder the larger pieces looked really solid but they were actually really easy to just break apart with my fingers and crumble them into a dust one thing to be careful with though was that these were nanoparticles so it was important not to breathe any of it in but anyway I had now successfully made the Faro part of the ferrofluid and the next step was to add the liquid when it comes to ferrofluids there were oil-based ones and water-based ones and it all depends what was used to cover the magnetite particles and in my case like we saw I covered it in oily and nonpolar oleic acid so it would of course have to be an oil-based ferrofluid for these types the most popular solvent that people use is kerosene because it's cheap and easy to get and it also doesn't evaporate as quickly as some of the other solvents to make things easier I split the batch roughly in half because they found that mixing large amounts can be a bit of a pain for this half I first weighed it and it came out to be about 12 grams I found that a good amount of kerosene to add is 85% of this mass so I added 10 point 2 grams the moment it was added it all started dissolving and the liquid quickly turned black to be fully technical here the magnetite isn't truly dissolving and it's just going into suspension this is because the nano particles aren't soluble in the solvent but they're small enough that they can still easily get dispersed the oleic acid coating that helps with this by preventing the particles from coming too close together and by also allowing them to interact with the nonpolar solvent the result of this is a stable suspension known as a colloid where it's almost like the magnetite is being dissolved even after mixing it for a few minutes though there was still quite a bit left sometimes it didn't really even look like much was happening but it's just genuinely a really slow process to speed it up I could have just added more kerosene but my goal here was to get it as concentrated as possible when it eventually looked like it was pretty much all gone I went and got one of my magnets I found that when there was just a bit of solid left it could really help but also it was just a decent test to see if the fluid was even working when it brought it close all the liquid pulled towards it and it formed some nice spikes which I was happy to see now in terms of mixing things the magnet helps because it pulls all the solid stuff to one spot it also holds it there pretty tightly and it makes it a lot easier to squish it and to crush it on the side of the ball I just did the same thing for another five or ten minutes moving this glass rod back and forth and eventually it all pretty much disappeared I was doing all this mixing over a board like this so once it was done I was able to test it by just putting a magnet underneath when I did this I was really happy with the results because under the magnetic field it didn't look like he was getting any more viscous or anything in my opinion this was one of the most important things to see because it's what separates a proper ferrofluid from a lot of those DIY methods that are floating around online what those make especially the ones that just makes printer toner with an oil are much closer to something called a magnet or a illogical fluid or just an mr fluid for short in NMR fluid the particles are much larger and because of that they aren't able to stay suspended so when they're exposed to a magnetic field they start separating out from the soul and they increase the viscosity depending on the particle size and how well they're coated this can sometimes cause things to partially or even completely solidify this all isn't to say though that mr fluids are a complete waste of time or that they're useless because they are interesting in their own way while I was working on this project I actually made them a few times by accident but I thought that they were still pretty cool for example this one was a liquid but when a magnet was brought close to it it got a lot thicker when the magnet was taken away though it almost instantly went back to being a liquid I think this happened because some of them were small enough to stay suspended but other ones were getting pulled out by the magnet so what I had here was not fully in mr fluid and it was kind of a mix with a ferrofluid in other cases though when the run was a complete failure I ended up with particles that were all way too big so pretty much all of them were pulled out by the magnet and the solidifying effect was much stronger and because of all the solid content it was still able to form spikes but they were a lot sharper but anyway getting back to the ferrofluid I find that it's a lot more fun when it's more spread out so I poured it all into a larger - in my opinion it was definitely a lot more fun like this and I think the visuals were a lot nicer as well the spikes kind of looked like they're solid but what's cool is that they're still completely liquid they aren't able to hold up much of anything so when I touched it with my glass rod they just moved out of the way what I thought was interesting though was that there was a bunch of liquid below the spikes and this was able to hold up the rod the magnetized fluid there was just really strongly attracted to itself and it was surprising how strongly repelled the rod the fluid is only able to spike when the magnetic field passing through it is close to being vertical so this was what happened when I put the magnet on the side and most of the field was traveling parallel to it it was only able to form spikes on the ends and the middle was just a smooth blob when I rotated the magnet though it gave this cool effect what I had here was still only half the batch so I went ahead and mixed the other part with kerosene and I poured it all in all of the fluids seemed to overload the magnet though so I decided to try it with a much larger one that I just got that morning it seemed to be able to handle this much fluid a lot better and the spikes were also bigger at this point I was pretty much done around with it but I just wanted to show one last thing I mentioned before that it didn't get more viscous under a magnetic field but in general it just wasn't very viscous at all it was pretty much the same it's just regular kerosene despite being about half magnetite from all the runs that have done I've noticed that the viscosity is actually something really important to look at and every time that it's been thicker it's been a really bad sign sometimes it initially works and it kind of looks like a ferrofluid but then over the course of a day it usually either separates or solidifies most of the time those batches just end up being garbage but sometimes they do end up being mr fluids which like I said can be interesting in their own way to measure the yield they transferred it all to a grad cylinder and it came out to be just above 30 mils there was a small loss from all the stuff that stayed stuck to the dish but in general this was pretty much what I usually got now that we've seen what my fluid did I just wanted to quickly compare it to the commercial stuff so this here was just some of the commercial fluid that I bought and this was what I made the spikes in mine are significantly bigger and in my opinion they're also more impressive the size of the spikes depends mostly on the concentration of the magnetite in the fluid and I think that mine just had a lot more in it in every run that I do I try to saturate the kerosene but because this process is still a bit finicky I haven't gotten consistent results this run just happened to be the best one that I filmed but I did have some that I didn't record that were much higher quality for example in this unfilmed one the spikes that I got were absolutely massive before making it I honestly didn't even know that it was possible for ferrofluid to spike that strongly the process that I did was almost exactly the same though and I'm really not sure what caused the difference however I am working hard on figuring it out because having a fluid like this every time would be amazing now going back to the nearly empty dish I put a magnet under it again and you can see all these little spikes forming I think that doing this on a small amount of the fluid is a decent test to see how good it is when the fluid is high quality it's easily able to form small spikes even when there's barely anything there I like to think of the magnetite nanoparticles as little pixels where their size will determine the smallest spike that can form as well as their resolution when the particles are bigger and non uniform in size the resolution is bad and they form larger and uglier spikes when they're very small in uniform though they make these really nice and little sharp ones now besides just spiking the fluid on a dish there are some other cool things to do with it the first thing is to add water to a vial and then to drop in some of the fluid kerosene alone is much lighter than water but with all the heavier magnetite in it it sinks to the bottom also with all the water around the ferrofluid no longer sticks to the glass with magnets I can then move it around and it makes this pretty cool little toy sealing the vial was also quite easy and I just had to fill it to the max with water and then put the cap on now I honestly have no idea why but for some reason this thing never stops being fun to play with at this point I've had this thing for at least a few weeks and I still find myself playing with it all the time as a side note I tried doing this with a couple different commercial ferrofluids and it never seemed to work by just smell I could tell that they were kerosene based but I think they also included a bunch of additives which messed it up also as a second side note with the ferrofluid from this video I've decided to make five more of these little files and to give them away to viewers I'll send them anywhere in the world totally free of charge and we'll explain how this will all work at the end of the video I thought it would be fun to scale it up so I just did the same thing with a larger bottle however when I did this it was obvious that my fluid wasn't as good as some of the other runs while it did still work and look cool the spiking wasn't very good and I also noticed that there were a lot of bubbles stuck in it this made it look a bit chunkier and not as smooth as it should have been for comparison though this was another bottle that I made using that other batch that spiked really well and you can see how much cleaner it is it's just way smoother without all those bubbles and it also spikes a lot more strongly I'm really not sure why this batch turned out to be a lot more bubbly but it must have had something to do with the surfactant the preparation for both of them though were exactly the same so I'm not really sure why there would be such a difference now changing gears a bit another interesting thing with ferrofluid is that it's commonly used as a lubricant because it's able to stick to things like magnets and create a liquid cushion with this the magnet is able to stay completely separated from the surface and to slide around really easily and while I definitely do think this is cool what I found was more fun was to use it to make art the cushion of ferrofluid also allowed the magnet to glide effortlessly over paper and as it moved it left behind a really small amount the result of this were some shockingly smooth lines with extremely sharp and precise edges then over the next 30 minutes most of the kerosene evaporated and it became even glassy ER I've never been very good at drawing and what I did here was pretty much just at random but for some reason I thought that these simple designs were oddly interesting I also tried a few times to do this with commercial ferrofluid but it never seemed to work very well there are some other oily additives in it which make it take way longer to dry and it also tends to bleed into the paper this makes it so that the edges are nearly as sharp and also the commercial fluid is more dilute so it doesn't look as black to be fair this was just one commercial fluid that I tried this with and there might be another one that works I honestly really doubt that though because pretty much all of the commercial stuff contains other oils and additives but I mean it could be possible but anyway I think that's about it for this project I'm really happy that I was actually able to finally make ferrofluid and that in some ways it was even better than commercial stuff but there's still a lot of work to do my next major goal is to try and make the process a lot more reproducible and to also scale it up I'm not sure when that would be posted though because for the time being I'm kind of done with ferrofluids they're insanely messy and pretty much everything ended up getting covered with oily iron also I've been thinking about ferrofluids way too often lately to the point where I've been literally seeing them when I close my eyes it'll probably be in something like several months when I've forgotten how bad it is to work with and I somehow convinced myself that it's an awesome idea to revisit but anyway with all that being said it's now time for the giveaway like I said before I've made five of these files and I'm gonna give them all the way for free I'll also ship them anywhere in the world totally free of charge to get a chance to win all you need to do is use the link in the description and then from there you can get an entry by doing a few different things this for example can just be as simple as visiting my youtube pages or by checking out my Instagram and while you're there you can feel free to subscribe or to follow but it's not necessary for the giveaway I'll do a drawing for the winners in about a week and I'll post the results here on youtube and on Twitter and I'll personally email everyone that wins with that being said though I think that's finally it for the video I hope you guys enjoyed it and that the length of it didn't kill you and I'll see you on the next one as usual a big things goes out to all my supporters on patreon everyone who supports me can see my videos at least 24 hours before I post them to YouTube also everyone on patreon can directly message me and if you support me with $5 or more you'll get your name at the end like you see here [Music]

Channel: NileRed

Views: 834,970

Rating: 4.9557238 out of 5

Keywords: nile, red, science, chemistry, ferrofluid, make, homemade, etchant, magnetite, ferric chloride, ferrous chloride, precipitate, magnetic, spike, liquid, magnetorheological

Id: 6L8yUY-doNc

Length: 38min 4sec (2284 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 05 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/Novu]

This. was. awesome!

[u/iamthewillrus]

Nile red is awesome, I'm looking forward to watching it

[u/drinkyojuiceTV]

one of the most unique and high quality videos i've seen here. good stuff!