Making a Simple Tailstock Die Holder

welcome back to the shop today we're going to make a dye holder for the tail stock of my lathe this will help you keep the dye nice and squared to the workpiece while you're threading so that you don't have to fuss around with a normal diet handle and trying to keep it square and whatnot we're going to start out with some one in 5/8 diameter aluminum by about five inches and this is 3/4 inch steel by about 8 and a half or so so we'll turn this turn a pocket in this to hold the threading die and drill a couple holes for set screws to lock it in place neural the outside of this so that we can get a get better grip on it and drill a half-inch through hole all the way through and then this piece will get a Morris taper number two on this end to hold in the tailstock and then turn down the other side of it to half-inch so that this can slide on there so let's head over to the lathe and get started I've got the aluminum in the four jaw Chuck just because it has a little taller of jaws than my three jaw does and I know there's a lot of stick out but I think we take it easy with aluminum we should be okay so the first thing we're gonna do is face off this end and then drill and ream or half-inch hole through it now I have the lathe slowed down to a slower speed and I'm just going to use a half inch reamer and run it all the way through the hole now we're going to cut out the pocket on this end that will hold our threading die I'm just gonna keep working at this by hand I'll bring you back when we're getting close get started but we'll take another skim pass of a couple more thousandths that's what we wanted very little play in here but a nice fit [Applause] now I've got the piece flipped around in the four jar and the compound here is set to sixty degrees so I'm gonna make a couple passes inside the edge of this hole and chamfer it so that I can use a center to support this end while we knurled the outside here now we're ready to get set up for an early the only knurling tool I have is this cheap Chinese swivel type tool someday I'll definitely invest in one of the clamp type Eagle rock or a similar brand knurling tools that doesn't put nearly the stress on your cross line but for now we're gonna get by with this one slow down the lathe a little bit this should be our last pass down and back we have almost complete diamond generals formed I'm just going really slow feeding by hand and using plenty of wd-40 to keep it lubricated while we cut it next what we're gonna do while it's in the lathe is cut just a series of decorative grooves in here just to break up this long looking knurled part and we'll chamfer this edge while ready [Music] [Music] here's a shot of how the nerville's turned out pretty happy with them this was the first time I used the Corsa snarling wheels on that swivel type murderer nice even diamonds all the way around so now we're going to mark on here all I did was take a sharpie and put three little marks where the set screws go into the outside of this threading die so now I'm just going to transfer those marks to the outside here and that's what we'll use to line up the drill bit to drill the set screw holes so let's go over to the mill and drill these holes we have the parts set up over in the mill now I used some copper shims and a rag just to clamp it so that the vise doesn't mess up the finish on it off cited right down the end here and use the drill bit and our mark and the center of the hole to line that everything up and then just spaced it back off of the face so that we'll hit the little divot here in the die so we're going to Center drill and drill and tap and then we'll rotate it and repeat twice [Music] now we're back over at the lathe I have the three-quarter inch bar in here running true our set screws in the and here to hold the die in place and I'm just going to approximate the same length here and put a mark on the bar so this end will get turned down to half inch so that it slides easily into there and then we'll spin it around and put the Morse taper on the side [Applause] we're starting to get pretty close to a half inch now we're at about 5:21 so I'm gonna switch to using the mic so that it we're more accurate and yeah five 22 or so and we're gonna just sneak up on the half inch and test fit it with our part as we get close so a few more passes and we should be there pretty good finish on it still about 13,000 to go so I'll send up another pass and get us down to a few thousands this should be our last pass we're just taking off a couple thousands and then we'll hit it with a little sandpaper and test fit our part that's a really nice fit there's a very little slop on there nice and smooth as you can see we have the arbor flipped around in here now I have the compound swung way over in this angle and I used a dial indicator on it and swept the Morse taper inside of the tailstock here so tap the compound back and forth until this dial indicator was reading true with the bore of this Morse taper that's how we have it adjusted the carriage is locked in place so I'm just using the compound to feed back and forth across here and advance in a little at a time until we get close to our Morse taper you can find charts like this online that give you a basic idea of Morse taper or other tapers to so we're going for Morse taper number 2 so I'm just going to keep turning this down until the small end gets close to about 572 so that's what we're gonna do let's see how it fits I think it'll be good so let me get some other stock in the truck here and a little test out threading it with our new threading dive holder all right I've got a piece of brass in here with those short section turned down to quarter inch and a quarter twenty died in here so I'm going to do is put a couple drops of oil inside of here so it spins freely on the arbor and the way this works you just slide the tail stock up you don't have to lock it in place or anything like that this spins freely I'm here as soon as you grab it and push it into the workpiece and the threads grab it'll pull itself forward and thread onto there is if it gets tight or if you come up to a shoulder or anything like that all you do is let go and this is free to spin with the workpiece it'll just spin on this Arbor there's no rotational or any sort of forces on this taper it is purely for alignment of your die so enough of the talking let's turn on the lathe I have it in back years slow down and see how this thing works so all I'm gonna do is grab this and push it forward into the workpiece and now it's grabbed and it's turning forward if I let go it'll just spin freely with the workpiece and I can grab it again it'll keep reading so we're getting close to the shoulder up here as soon as it hits the shoulder I can feel and I let go pop down back here that's why it's just spinning freely so if you run it in reverse you can pull it right off and unthread it that's all there is to it so I'm sure I can do this was quarter inch probably 5/16 probably 3/8 that's probably about the limit of what I'm going to be able to hold on to and still make the cut threads into something I hope you liked the video thanks a lot for watching and be sure and subscribe for more shot projects coming soon

Channel: Build Fix Create

Views: 178,809

Rating: 4.8999653 out of 5

Keywords: die holder, lathe projects, knurling

Id: bq2NtnbViF4

Length: 16min 37sec (997 seconds)

Published: Tue Oct 10 2017