Making a Mosaic Longsword with an ABS Mastersmith - Kyle Royer

we told you at the very beginning the very first video we ever put on the channel we're going to also have other craftsmen who some of them you've seen other ones we don't know who they are yet that's what we're gonna do we're gonna start branching out a little bit please welcome Kyle Voyer Kyle Royer is an ABS master smith he's going to show you a sword that took him three months to make enjoy welcome back to the knife Studio here it is my name is Kyle Royer and I'm a master bladesman it looks really cool when you wire wheel it making my first ever sword so let's embark on this epic edged Adventure you think that'll make a big enough Billet for a sword I think one of the next things to do is to start cleaning all the the scale and rust and everything off here I want to get nice clean surfaces so one of the things I'm gonna have to be real careful with here is to make sure I'm taking my time on these billets and not overheating them or underheating them while I'm for dwelling almost 200 worth of Steel here and you could just uh have it overheated or underheated just once and mess up the whole thing so I have to really be careful of that and watch my temperature on this thing I think we'll go ahead and do uh this Billet first spill it right here the center on it it's going to go in the center of the Mosaic pattern when we're done foreign [Music] [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] this is the W Billet got it all ground clean got it marked out when I cut it into four pieces and we're gonna stack it up this should be ready for the ends to be welded up on it and once the ends are welded up I can go ahead and put some sheet metal on the sides just to encapsulate the uh the Billet close it all in so right after we get this forward welded I'll do what I did with the the first starting out billets and grind off all this extra mild Steel on the sides and we'll Forge this thing out time to forge it down I think I'll Forge it down to about an inch and three quarter and then re-square the building [Music] everything [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] so the next thing I'm going to do is uh get it all marked out get the layout of where I want to cut the tiles and uh yeah I'll start doing all that stuff here it is got it all uh TIG welded up got our casing on the sides of it or the I don't know what you can say but the the broad area got our eighth inch metal welded on there it's all encapsulated so it should be a clean atmosphere free Forge welding experience [Music] nobody else [Music] [Applause] [Music] thank you [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] but it's time to finally normalize this blade we heat it up to 1600 and let it cool to air temperature and heat it up to 1500 let it cool and then 1400 and let it cool and then I can continue grinding on it more surface grind it down rough in the profile get it ready for heat treating [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] the blade is uh ready to go for heat treating the color was beautiful it looked really even it was gorgeous about fries when I saw it I'm gonna temper this blade at 450 degrees [Music] There She Goes hopefully we'll be able to get the whole blade tempered pretty evenly I've got the layout done on the sword for the Fuller profile is done so it's pretty straight pretty flat so I got the layout done on both sides here but the blade tapers a lot so what I did was super glued some little shims on here to make the Fuller rather taper the amount I wanted to when I laid it down on the flat Granite surface and then described the line on there [Music] thank you [Music] the Fuller is finally sanded I spent the better part of a day standing on this thing my fingers are killing me I'm holding onto that little sanding wheel that I made up but I got the job done so yeah this blade is now ready for the blade bevels to be ground in and we'll finally be ready to start really seriously removing material weight because right now it's almost five pounds pretty heavy hopefully it'll go well to the grinder I got the blade hand sanded the blade bevels are at 600 grit and the Fullers are at 1500 grit I'll finish sanding the rest of the blade after the handle is done and then we'll do the etching and stuff in yeah look straight to me the next thing we can do is start doing layout for where the blade will fit onto the guard and then start Milling out the slot for the guard and something I like to do on my guards that you guys might have seen before is I like to have the ricasso area fit into the guard about ten thousandths of an inch so it'll have a really nice tight fit and I actually recessed that in there by hammering my guard on until it leaves a mark and going in there with the dental birth and removing material until the blade physically fits into the guard may have seen two little dots on the back side right here that indicates which side is up I also have an arrow on the tank so I can put this on the same way every time do a little inspection see how it's looking oh man it looks amazing I am really happy with that that was the most challenging guard fit ever and it looks like it it looks like it's integral with the blade I mean it's it's as good as it gets you couldn't really ask for it to be any better I've got a chunk of metal cut off here for the front spacer I've also marked out where that piece is going to go I marked out the center of it and marked out where the 10 goes on there so now I'm going to take it over the milling machine and uh Mill out a slot for it to fit up on the tank [Music] I finally have this front spacer shaped what I was going for was a little bit of a flow you can see this little tiny coil area here that I've cut away on the blade if you look at it carefully that flow kind of that curve on the coil goes right into the front spacer I wanted it to just kind of flow out into the handles next thing I can do is draw some lines on this handle material where the Tang goes and start drilling holes and milling and broaching it out until I get it to fit up on here foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] thank you [Music] dude pretty tight fit not bad man not bad at all normally stuff doesn't come out that good for me we're pretty much ready to start working on figuring out how to do the pommel so here's the pommel got a 5 16 hole going all the way through this piece of metal and I've also made on one end of it a 3 8 of an inch hole that goes in about a sixteenth of an inch or so I think I'm ready to Chuck this thing up in the lathe and start turning it down [Music] [Applause] [Music] so I got this Pummel turned down yesterday I've got a slot in the end of it here I think I can probably go ahead and make the pommel nut this is going to be a pom on that I've got a hole drilled in here we've got a taper tap and then I've got a bottoming cap run through it with a tapering tap first and then the bottoming tap and get some threads on this thing then we'll take it and start turning it down on the lathe into a Pummel nut [Music] [Music] [Music] this thing is incredible love having it put together for the first time finally you're starting to get all the components together just got the pommel nut finished the pommel that's actually ready for gold inlays it's the most finished piece on this whole sword it's probably even a little closer to being done than the blade actually so here's the finished pommel nut it's got 5 16 inch threads in it and it's recessed to sit down inside of the once I get the pommel all domed and everything will be a nice perfect Dome to transition to the pommel nut so one of the next things we're going to do is take this really really roughed in chunk of pommel and start turning it down and get it really close to the final shape that we want I've got the top of the pommel pretty much finished out here it's at a 600 grit right now which is probably a little further than it needs to be because it's going to get gold inlay later and I'll end up having to sand it back down to like 220. the next thing I want to do is get this radius cleaned up and maybe sand on that a little bit and get it to come to a nice crisp Edge right here something else that'll happen in the future a little bit later on is this will this will be turned from round to more of an oval shape but that'll get ground in later after the lineup pins and the handle shaped and all that but for now getting the pommel roughed in there pretty close I've got the normal completely shaped ready to go the pommel is ready for hand sanding and gold inlay the front spacer is ready for hand sanding and then goldenlay and I have the handle shaped to the final size it needs to be and it's ready for fluting once the layout's done on it so the only other handle part that needs aggressive shaping is this guard so I'm going to start grinding on this thing once I get the layout lines all put on here [Music] [Music] please [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] I've got all the fittings sanded to 220 grit for the sword we're gonna coat the tang and the inside parts of the fittings with Vaseline and then dump this epoxy I'm mixing up inside the handle put it onto the knife sword rather and assemble it put it all together and then once the epoxy starts to set take the knife apart clean it all up put it back together let the epoxy fully Harden and then yeah we'll be able to take the handle off and on and it'll fit on perfectly like a glove every single time I finally got the handle all cleaned up got the guard cleaned up got all the epoxy out of the places I didn't want it to be now I've got the handle bolted to this little fluting jig layout thingy I made so now I'll put it in the lathe and start doing some layout lines using the lines on here we'll put lines all the way across the handle eight of them in total then we'll take it off this little jig thingy and we'll bring it over here and put a pencil in my height gauge and we'll draw eight lines going around the handle this way so we'll have a grid to then do our layout with I'll probably use a Sharpie to connect the Grid on an angle going from corner to corner on each little square and that'll give us eight perfectly spiraled flutes going around the handle after that I can start hacking away at this thing with a file foreign [Music] foreign [Music] here it is the Ivory part of the handle is finished I got it all fed up on here and man oh man I got goosebumps putting this thing on it's like super super amazing I am just I love it it looks so good the sword is really really coming along here now I'm like oh I love it so much now [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] so so far everywhere the gold goes I've cut in the grooves I can start taking my 24 karat gold smashing it into the grooves and have it lock into that dovetail once that's done we can sand the surface clean get these things sanded up to uh 2500 or 3000 Grit lightly buff them and then gun blew them and then the fittings will be done [Music] oh yeah [Music] thank you [Music] [Music] [Music] thank you foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no so the guard sanded the front spacer sanded Palmer Not sanded all I've got to do is lightly buff the pieces to get that nice mirror finish on there and then do the gun blowing and hopefully it'll go right the first time or at least by the fifth time or something [Music] um absolutely terrified gotta get the sword done feel like I'm gonna throw up because blooming a lot of times doesn't go well uh just want to get this done just gotta get this done [Music] thank you [Music] thank you foreign [Music] [Music] that looks good by the way I was thinking about how much time I spent on this guard guys this guard alone has somewhere around two and a half weeks of work just in this card it's finally time to put this Beast together I ended up sharpening this thing for like four hours I can't believe it's actually going to be finished here in a minute as long as I don't drop anything or cut myself everything's prepared we're putting the sword together I will see you guys on the other side of getting this thing assembled and having it finished QB roll [Music] oh [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] here it is the sketch before and after it's finally done can't believe it hasn't set in yet this thing's been done for a couple hours now guys I don't think it's hit me yet because I've been working on this three days short of three months this thing came out epically amazing 36 inch blade Mosaic Damascus super high contrast the Finish came out amazing blue mild steel fittings with gobs and gobs of 24 karat gold inlays Fossil walrus Ivory fluted handle got my Maker's Mark here on the front spacer which is something I've never done before and it really pops master smith on the other side deep wide Fuller when I said this took three months to make also keep in mind that I was working on it 10 to 12 hour days so yeah you guys can do this too you can make a sword like this you can do stuff better than this or just stick with it and give it all your effort and persevere and you can come out with a really cool thing in the end there may be some tears and and sweat involved and maybe a little but it's really worth it in the end a big shout out to Matt and Ilya for inviting us to be on your channel I'm really looking forward to doing more videos with you guys in the future go check out my Channel at Kyle royerknives where we are all about teaching you how to make knives I've also put together a special playlist where I show you how to make this massive buoy and be sure to check out more videos by that works click here they're clicking right yeah okay good job keep clicking

Channel: That Works

Views: 6,374,185

Keywords: how to make a sword, abs mastersmith, making a sword 101, mosaic damascus blade, kyle royer, blade show 2019, best sword ever, how to forge a sword, how to make damascus, how to heat treat, first sword, bladesmith

Id: cnDkviyPOwE

Length: 31min 22sec (1882 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 01 2019