Making a Big Boring Bar For My Big Monarch Lathe, 25N

hello welcome to topper machine i'm josh topper today we're going to fix a problem that been a problem for a very long time um when i got the big monarch quite a few years ago now i needed a big boring bar i needed a two inch diameter bar and i wanted something a little longer because i was doing some pretty deep stuff and this bar has worked um it hasn't worked great but it's worked and it's gotten me by um but all i had was 10 18 to make the bar at the time and what i did was i bought these these kind of metal um this is a kendex and i've got some kenpock ones um this is one that i used to use quite a bit but they're all kind of they're all these two inch ones are interchangeable this is the one i use the most this is a can lock and it uses a big cnmg insert i think this is a 542 or 543 one or the other but this is what i use for most of it and it's just a a little head that you interchange onto your bars so what we need to do is we need to take this new piece of material i have i got some 4140 pre-hard here um two inch and we're gonna bore it for the recess here or for this the stub and then we'll take it over the radial drill we'll transfer punch it and then we'll drill and tap it on the radial drill for the mounting holes so um what we're going to do first is we're going to put the steady rest up in the monarch the middle size monarch here and we'll get set up and get going on this [Applause] okay so just to explain what i did there for setting up the steady rest and i've always done it this way but there are other ways of doing it you can scribe a line or a couple of lines use your use your centering uh fixture for your combination square and describe a couple lines get your center run your tail stock in and match up your center to your scribed lines that's one way to do it um and i've done that before in the past but this when i got something this short a couple feet not a big deal i can clamp it up tighten the chuck and then i just bring my my rollers up to it i run roller bearings on all of my steady rests i just switched everything over in that way then i don't need to use oil keep keep lubing it and it's a much better a better system it just holds much better tolerance but so i just brought them in until they touched and pushed them a little further get them so that they don't skip it all tighten it all down uh that's good enough you're gonna have a little deflection here and there but it it's not gonna be too bad that it's gonna be a big problem um any time you run something long you're gonna have deflection so next step here is uh we'll face this side off and then i'll drill in and then we'll start boring it to to uh whatever our stub there is but i'll drill in about about um three quarter of an inch to start with to get it started and then then we'll finish it off with a little boring bar so let's get that set up and going [Applause] [Applause] so so okay so we got it bored and polished it up a little bit with just some fine emery cloth and it's a nice fit it's it's a fit um it's perfect but now what we got to do is we got to take a transfer punch and these things are relatively inexpensive you can buy them by the set and they just uh a punch with a little point on them and they come in multiple sizes i have them all the way up to one inch to go in an existing hole like so and transfer the mark so because this mates up what we do is we install that install our head back in take our transfer punch slide it in give it a smack now we have our first mark first mark on our on our boring bar now i'm gonna do one at a time because my plan is to put it on there i got and uh drill and tap it put the head on and then do the other two so that everything lines up good but i'll show you this this is a pretty cool setup this is a magic chuck and you can set it up however you want they got these holders like this these are just a morse taper holder and i put in whatever i want i've got multiple drill chucks i've got um taps all kinds of stuff set up and you can just that easy you lift this collar slide it in collar drops down you're there it does float a little bit there's a little movement in it so it'll help you line up your hole so i'm going to move the camera in and we'll drill the first one and then i'm going to hand tap it because this is hard material i don't want to break my tap so let's get moved in and get started [Applause] so [Applause] [Applause] so well there it is really that simple not much to it but when you need a boring bar and you need something big you you don't have much for options unless you want to spend a ton of money or you want to um you could slot it and use a use a tool bed in there or an insert holder or something you could there's multiple options but i think i paid like 75 or 100 for this head and uh i think the material recently was like 50 bucks for the 2 inch 4140 so i mean really it's not that bad for a decent boring bar just a little bit of time to build it so with that we're going to end the video here uh hope you learned some stuff well if not uh stay tuned we'll we'll be doing more and hopefully you can learn something then and um yeah but hey you got to see the uh carlton radial drill get used and uh a steady rest so pretty cool stuff uh fun stuff this is stuff that i do almost every day steady rest radial drill just there's always doing something different different machines every day so i'll keep shooting these videos and we'll keep going forward with with this um so please check out our website www.toppermachine.com and please like subscribe and share share our channel share our content and until next time get out in your shop and get it done right the first time you

Channel: Topper Machine LLC.

Views: 530

Rating: 5 out of 5

Keywords: Machine Shop, Monarch Lathe, Topper Machine, metal Shaper, insert holder, bridgeport milling machine, 4140 Prehard, manual machine shop, metal planer, Steady rest

Id: RnLV8pVFrgk

Length: 11min 59sec (719 seconds)

Published: Fri May 14 2021