Make Your Own // Handmade Leather Satchel // PDF Pattern Pack Make Along

hi i'm joe from jh leather and in this make a long video we're going to be making this beautiful satchel [Music] now before we get started i want to take a minute to thank metropolitan leather for supporting this video now if you don't know metropolitan leather is one of my main suppliers here in the uk and they very kindly supplied me with the leather for this video now the leather i chose was from their livedon collection which is one of my favorites that they have to offer and there is a link in the description below for you to check out their website and all the other wonderful leather that they have so as always the patterns are available to purchase fire my website and there's a link in the description once you've downloaded and printed them out we are now ready to start assembling so there is a measurement guide on page one and there is also a layout guide for the main body which is numbered so you can easily put them together so what we're going to do is roughly cut them out and then we're going to start assembling now the patterns fit onto an a1 size piece of card which is what i am using here and i started with the middle line of the patterns and then worked out from there and you want to make sure you get these nice and lined up once you've done your center line you can then work either side of that and get the breath of your pattern stuck down onto your reinforcement card now once you've done sticking your patterns down onto your reinforcement card you can accurately cut them out now with the main body what i suggest you do is use a long ruler and a rotary knife to cut this and do this in sections because like i said it is a long piece and to get a nice accurate cut it's easier to do this in sections for the corners you can use a head knife or a craft knife and like here i am just nibbling away at it and you can do the same method with other knives for cutting out the oblongs on the shoulder pad and on the strap stays you can either use an oblong punch which is the size marked on the patterns or you can use a circular punch and then cut between these with a knife on your main pattern you can also cut out these parts i have here which are where these safes are going to go as well as the logo now as always material thickness and fitting selections are included in the information pack that comes with the downloadable patterns now we're going to start by cutting three strips from the long side of our hide and then we're going to start drawing around our patterns now on the main body we're going to draw around the outside and then we're also going to draw in the cutout areas that are shown in the video here as well as marking where the stitching is going to be on the outside of the body and where the top of the pocket sits as well as where the point straps sit at the top of the pocket and at the bottom because we're going to use these as a guide when it comes to putting our bag together later on [Music] once you have all your patterns drawn out i suggest you roughly cut these out and then we can do some accurate cutting when they are a bit of a more manageable size so now you have your patterns drawn out and roughly cut we can now accurately cut them out and again with this main bag doing multiple cuts is easier and more accurate in the long run again when it comes to the corners i'm using my head knife for this because i find it very good for this job and you can use other craft knife for this as well we also want to cut out the oblong spots in both the shoulder pad and the strap safes now when it comes to marking out our straps we're going to start by just doing the two point straps that are going to be on our main bag and as i'm using a shoulder here for my leather i've put my point so it's facing up the strap because the stronger part of his shoulder is towards the center of the strap and once you've got that marked out you can then cut out two of these and we want to make sure we nick the corners on this as well so you should not have all your pieces cut out looking a bit like this and we're now going to do some edging with our number one edge tool so all the information on where you need to edge is included in the information pack that you get with your patterns now when it comes to the safe and the shoulder straps we're going to use a wider edge tool and just take out the inside edge on the back side of the oblongs that we cut out now this is going to make it so the strap runs more easily through these now we have everything cut out we can move on to do some staining and polishing now on mine what i'm going to do is do like finishing touches on to some of the bits that are going to be more awkward to do later and again they are listed in the information pack that you get with your downloads but they include things like these safe that are going to be attached to the bag so are going to be a bit more awkward to get to the edges afterwards we also want to stain inside the oblong holes on the shoulder pad and on the strap safes once we've got everything polished we are then going to do some creasing so i use a manual crease and i have it set to 1.5 millimeters and i heat it up on a electric crease heater and we're going to crease everywhere where we have done our staining so all your pieces should now look a little bit like this and we're going to start to do some skiving so the patterns have marked on where you need to mark your pieces to and once you have done that we can then actually move on to reducing the thickness now you can use a french shape and a stitch groove like i have in previous videos and i will put a link to that so you can see but for mine i'm actually going to use my bell's favorite because i find this easier on my elbow and as i have the machine here i might as well use it so now you have your bit skived and again information on how much to skype is in the information pack we now need to do a few finishing bits so on the internal divider and on the pen loop we just need to make sure that the very edge is skype down to nothing so and on the point straps that are going to go on the bag we want to skive the end down to nothing and we're going to do this from about three quarters or 19 millimeters back from the end with our d-ring shapes we're going to skive down to half thickness on both ends and we're going to do that from about three quarters of an inch or 19 millimeters back from the end we're now going to start by assembling our magnetic tab and we're going to start by marking the center where the center of our magnet needs to be once you've got the centers marked on you can then get the backing piece for your magnet and just mark that where the two legs are going to go through your leather and then using a sharpened screwdriver we can cut these slots once we've done that we can then put in and assemble both of the magnets and now we are ready to start sticking some bits onto our main bag so we're going to do is using an edge rougher we're going to rough up the edges of our leather where our tabs are going to stick now on the two safe strap size we're just going to do our scruffing just around the edge because we don't want to be able to see that once the tabs have been glued on once you've done with your edge roughing you can then use your contact adhesive and glue both sides of your leather pieces and then stick them in place once the pieces are shown in the video are stuck on we're going to set our dividers to our stitching distance which is shown on your patterns or it is three millimeters and we're going to draw around and mark on our stitching for each of the pieces that we have just stuck onto our bag and once we've done that we can then stitch mark now i'm using a four millimeter diamond chisel for this and you can stitch mark this all the way through should you wish i am not because i am quite happy to use a stitching all for mine once we've done that we can then start assembling our pen loop and then we're going to mark where it sits onto our pocket and then once we've done that we're actually going to put our pocket onto our main divider and lightly draw around it and then using that as a guide we can then rough up the edges just inside of that line then we're going to put some glue on both of the main pocket and on the divider and then we're going to rough the edges on both sides of our loop and put glue on both sides of that as well and then we are ready to assemble so put your pocket on first and then using our mark that we made earlier you can assemble your pen loop as well and get that stuck in once you're happy grab your dividers and draw around your pocket and then again stitch mark all the way around this now you can use any size stitch marker you like i just found that the four millimeter chisels i had here worked really well for this project when you're going around corners it is easier to use a smaller iron like two tooth and once we've got that assembled we can then move on to our shoulder pad so what we're going to do is draw around it onto our lining and then we're going to roughly mark where the oval holes are because what we don't want to do is have glue under that area so once we've drawn around it we're then going to put glue onto our pad as well as onto the backing avoiding those areas that we have marked on and then we can stick that on and draw around with our dividers and again stitch mark all the way around we're now going to assemble our d-ring shapes and once they're glued together we're actually going to do some finishing touches because it's easier to do that now than when they are on the gusset so we're going to sand the edges and then restain and polish and then they are ready to get glued on so you can see here i've cut out the guide on the pattern and what i'm doing is marking that on to the gusset without marking across the top because you will see that if you do once you've done that you can then scruff up that area as well as the back side of your shapes and then put glue on both pieces and start assembling and once you're happy that they are glued on you can just double check that they are straight with your ruler and then again we're going to go around this with our dividers and mark on our stitch line we want our stitching to go as close to that d-ring as possible and depending on what d you're using will depend on how close you can get which is why the stitching isn't marked on these but once you know how high you can get you can then use your set square and mark that on the opposite side so they are nice and even and then once again we are going to do our stitch marking now we've got everything stitch marked and ready to go we're going to stitch everything that we have prepped up so far now we're going to start each piece by doing two back stitches and then we'll finish with one and a half back stitches so that both ends match and we're going to be double hand or saddle stitching around each piece now like i said i am quite happy to use an all when stitching because i find that easier than stitch marking all the way through and then not using one once we have finished stitching each piece what we're going to do is we're going to trim the ends of our thread and then depending on what thread you're using so i'm using a linen thread i'm going to use some pva glue just on the ends to make sure that they stay where they're supposed to if you are using a nylon thread for instance you can actually melt the ends and then once you've done that you want to flatten your stitching so for areas like these shapes i'm going to be using a bone folder because that's not going to damage anything so you should have all your pieces looking a bit like this and what we're going to do next is just do a bit more finishing touches whilst it's flat because it's a lot more easy to do that now so we're going to re-crease everything once we've done that we can then mark on where the rest of that pocket is going to sit on the back of our main body and then we're actually going to put our straps through the safe so that they are out the way and not flapping around now for this if you put your bone folder through just to widen the loop that we have made there and then your strap can go through now like mine you are probably going to need to use a awl just to help that through and then you can pull the rest of your strap through once they are out of the way you can then wrap up the edges where your pocket is going to be and then glue that in place and once that is on you can then go around with your dividers and then stitch mark this all the way around and then using the same method that we did earlier we're going to stitch this on to our main bag so once that's stitched on we're going to do the stitch marks onto our main bag and they are marked on the pattern if you haven't already and then stitch mark all the way along that line we're then going to mark 3 8 of an inch or 9 millimeters down from that mark that we made earlier when we were doing our edging and that is where our internal pocket is going to sit once we've marked that on we are going to glue along one of the long sides and then on the one side of our internal divider as well as around the edge of one of our gussets now we're going to start by sticking our internal divider in and that is gonna sit at that three eighths or nine millimeters from the top mark that we have made we want that nice and flush with the edge and once that's stuck in you can then rough the top edge of that and then put some glue along here once we've done that we are then ready to glue in and attach our gussets now this is quite fiddly and the first one is a lot harder than the second one so what we're going to do is start by sticking the top together at the front then we're going to fold that around and stick the top of the other side of the gusset in place and then we can work around the rest of the gusset to get that in line nice and as flush as possible with the main body of the bag now like i said this is incredibly fiddly and what i like to do is try and get the long sides attached first and then i will move the bag over and do around the bottom now if you've got some bulldog clips for this this is an ideal time to use them and they're just going to help keep everything in place and if you need to remove and then re-add your gusset you can do that that is absolutely fine you may need to add a bit of extra glue on if you do do that or even if you're just removing it in places once you are happy you've got your gusset glued in we can start stitching so on this we're going to do two back stitches and then one stitch over the edge where we cross our needles over and now this stitching of the gusset can be a bit awkward because it is quite big so what i've done is i've actually propped the bag up on its side with the weights or the pattern weights that i have in the workshop as well as a large water bottle just to get it to stand up nice and straight and make it a bit easier for me when i'm stitching and when we get to the other side of our gusset we're going to do one stitch over the edge and then do two and a half back stitches so this matches our original side once you've done your back stitches you can then trim the ends of your thread and put some pva glue in to keep them from moving and then we are ready to stick in the other side of our divider now this is a bit awkward because the divider is longer than our bag is so you might need to just move that around a bit but get that stuck nice and flush with the edge of your main bag and then once that's stuck down rough the edges up with your edge rougher and then you can glue along all the way down there as well as the rest of the bag and glue the gusset as well and then you can start to assemble this side of your bag now like i said the second gusset is a bit easier to put in place because the bag is already molded pretty much to the shape that it needs to be and again i like to work the long edges first and then when i'm happy with that i will then glue the bottom end and you want to get this as nice and flush as possible now there might be a little bit of overhanging which is absolutely fine because we can trim that off at a later date now once you're happy you've got your gusset glued in i like to put my pattern weight actually inside the bag at this point because it now makes it nice and solid for when i am stitching and we're going to start by doing our back stitches including one over the edge of the end of the gusset and then we can stitch the rest of the bag as normal stitching towards us using the saddle stitch method so and so hopefully your bag is now looking a little bit like this and what we're going to do with our wooden burner ship we're actually going to flatten these stitches on the main bag then we can punch the holes in our straps and then we're going to put the bag to one side whilst we make our buckle shapes so we're going to start by marking out the center for our crew punch and then drawing on a couple of tram lines just to make sure we get that nice and central on that strap and once you're happy with your tram lines you can punch that crew all the way through and do that on both pieces we can then mark on where the legs of our magnet need to go and using our sharpened screwdriver we can push that all the way through now we've done that we can use our larger edge tool and we're actually going to take out the back of the crew and that's going to help that buckle tongue sit nice in our strap and then once we've done that we can fit the other part of our magnet and once we've done that we can then start to glue these together so i'm using a leather loop on mine but if you are using a metal loop you're going to want to make sure you insert that at this point and then once your shapes have been glued together we're going to mark on as close to the buckle as we can where we can do our stitching and then using our dividers we're going to draw around the whole of the buckle shape and then we can do our stitch marking along these lines and now i'm using a leather loop for mine and i like my loops quite tight so i'm going to wrap my looping around one thickness of leather and mark where that touches and then cut that off and i'm going to cut three of these because we're going to need one later for the shoulder strap now if you like your loops to be a bit looser or you don't have a looping stick you're going to want to use the same method but around two thicknesses of leather not the one thickness like what i have now we have our loops cut out we're just going to offer them up to the center of our strap where the crew is and then mark on the edge where that is and then we know how far in that the loop can sit we're then going to pop that in and then we can start stitching starting with a back stitch and then doing one stitch over the edge to get that nice and tight on our buckle now when it comes to stitching in loops when i get to the other end of the tape what i do is i actually pre-order the last four holes and then put the loop in and then i will re-all the holes with the loop in place and it's a bit easier because we're only going through the thickness of the loop once you've finished stitching you can trim your threads and then use a bit of pva glue in the ends to keep them in place and we're now going to start working on our shoulder strap so the measurements are marked on the information sheet that you have with your downloads and we're going to start by using our point strap pattern from earlier a mark on the point and the first three holes we're going to set our dividers to this distance and then mark on further holes until we have 11 in total we can then set our dividers to the half width of the strap and then even up all of our holes to make sure that they are nice and central on our strap we are then going to mark the overall measurement which is in your guides and cut that to length and then nick the corners now as this is our turn end what we're going to do is mark four inches or 100 millimeters from the end and draw a line across and that is going to be where our turn finishes what we're going to do now is then cut the buckle strap and again the information for that is in the information pack that you got with your downloads now one of the ends on this strap is going to be a buckle turn so on that end we're going to mark two inches or 50 millimeters on the grain side and just draw a small line and that's going to be the center of our crew we're going to flip that over and on the flash side draw a 4 inch or 800 millimeter mark on both ends and then we can edge in between those points on the flesh and all around on the grain side on the point strap we can imagine we can edge all around on the grain side and then just miss out that underneath piece where the turn is going to be on the flesh side once we've done that we can then stain and polish and crease the edges and then we're going to punch our crew so again with our dividers we can draw on our tram lines for that to make that nice and easy for us once we've got that on we can then punch the crew punch all the way through and take out the back with our number six edge tool and then we're going to make sure we have a nice sharp knife and then we're going to skive the ends of our turn to half thickness and we want that to be about 5 8 of an inch or 16 millimeters long once we've done that we can then start assembling so i started mine by doing both of the ends with the trigger clip and again once we got that in we're going to draw on our stitch mark lines and even that up with our set square on both sides we can then do our stitch marking and then we're going to stitch these two on so if you're intending on using a running loop we can now mark for this now for mine i'm going to wrap mine around two thicknesses of leather and then just mark with my thumb where they overlap and now i do have a full more in-depth video on this which i will put a link to as this is just going to go over a brief way of how to do your running loops so once you've cut it out and nicked the corners you can then wrap it around again and mark where the ends meet and then stitch mark all the way through on both ends and then we're just going to skive each end to half thickness and then do a bit of staining so we can't see any raw edges in our lube we're then going to put a single needle on a piece of thread and single hand stitch our running loop together and again like i said there's more information in the video that i've linked in the description of this video once we've done that and we've done our finishing touches to it we can then pop that onto our main buckle strap and then glue our buckle turn down and then we're gonna mark for our stitch marking as we did earlier even things up with our set square and then drawing the line with our dividers and then we can stitch mark this and then once we've done stitch marking we're going to grab our loop that we cut earlier mark where that needs to be and pop that in between the layers before stitching this turn and now we've done that we're going to punch the holes in our main shoulder strap and then start doing our finishing touches so like i said i use a loop stick to block the loops on my work i'm just going to put that in and then start doing the finishing touches so restaining and polishing the edges before re-creasing the loop as well as all the way around the turn on my buckle turn and then we can just do the finishing touches on the rest of our things so we're going to start by cutting out the excess off of our shoulder pad and then doing some edging and then we can do our staining and polishing and we are going to add tolkien as well at this point to get our edges nice and polished and then we can re-crease and we're going to crease on both sides once we've done that we can then stretch the loops like we did earlier with our bone folder and then we can thread our point strap through our shoulder pad and attach it to our buckle strap we can now put that to one side once we do the finishing touches on the rest of our bag so the main bag we're going to start by using some crap rubber to remove any excess glue and then we'll trim any excess leather before sanding with our sanding block and now you might need to go over and re-edge this with your number one edge tool and that is absolutely fine once we've done that we can then re-stain and polish the edges and then apply token all around the edges of our bag and get them nice and shiny with our wooden burnisher we're also going to finish any other bits at this point as well and then we're going to re-crease everything including the inside of those gussets and then we can attach our buckle safe to our point straps and then we have finished our bag [Music] so that is it now if you want to create this bag as always there is a link in the description for the patterns and if you don't want to make the bag but you do want the bag there is also a link for you to purchase this one that i made here in this video now i hope you enjoyed watching and if you did please click the thumbs up button and subscribe for more videos and tutorials and if you would like to support the channel further there is a link in the description to our patreon page that is it from me and i shall see you in the next video

Channel: J.H.Leather

Views: 104,191

Keywords: JHLeather, J.H. Leather, Leatherwork, Leathercraft, DIY, UK saddlery, SMS, Society of Master Saddlers, make along, leather wallet, pdf, pattern pack, leather patterns, tutorial, leathercraft tutorial, beginner leather craft, hand stitching, leathercraft patterns, satchel, make a satchel, leather satchel making, leather satchel company, leather satchel bag, satchel bag pattern, leather satchel pattern, make your own satchel, DIY satchel, mens satchel, ladies satchel bag

Id: 5k0HqOxJWAk

Length: 36min 5sec (2165 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 10 2022