Make Your Own -Shoulder Bag ~ Make Along // PDF Pattern Pack

hi i'm joe from j h leather and this is skyler and in this video we'll be showing you how to make this shoulder bag let's get started [Music] okay so the first thing you are going to want to do is print off your patterns now from the experience i've had with these we want to put the scale to fit to paper and that gets the most accurate printing results and so once you have printed off your patterns we're going to roughly cut out the items on the first page and then with the main body we want to accurately cut the long inside edge and then either the top of the bottom depending on which pattern you are using so that it helps us when we come to glue these onto our card to get them nicely aligned so once you've cut your patterns out for longevity reasons what you can do is to actually glue them onto some thick two mil card and then sort of you'll be able to get a lot of reuse out of them if you don't have that however you can glue them onto a cereal box that is absolutely fine and with the main body pattern for your bag you want to make sure you get that nice and accurate and glued together so you may want to sharpen your knife here and then once you have done that we can now cut out our patterns accurately and with the long stretches what i like to do is using a ruler have that weighted down and then i can use that as a guide to make sure my line is nice and straight and now you should have all your patterns printed and backed with card and looking something like this and now we've done that we can go on and mark these onto our leather so for the leather used in this and all the information about where you can get sort of leather like this for your project that is all in the guide that comes with the downloadable pattern pack and we want to cut two straps to go with this so we're going to set our strap cutter to one inch wide and we're going to cut two one inch straps now depending on the size of your hide you may need further straps or maybe one will be enough what we're going to do now is we're going to mark out with our point strap pattern the main point strap for the front of the bag so once we've cut the point out we can then put our pattern on and mark that hole and that's going to be the one hole that we have on this strap and then we can mark the overall measurement which is going to be 12 and a half inches and then using our set square we're going to square that end and nick the two corners as well and on our main pattern we also want to transfer the maker's marks that are marked onto it on to our leather below i know if you don't do it at this stage that's fine we can do that at a later date throughout the build and so you should have all your parts cut out and looking something like these and what we're going to do is with a number one edge tool we're going to start edging our pieces so on our main bag we're going to edge the whole of the nice grain side and then on the flesh side we're going to edge along just that very top straight edge and then we're going to get our pattern guide and we're going to mark on where the stitch mark locations are and what we will do is then edge around the curved end between these two points because these are not going to have stitching underneath them and on our buccaldies we're just going to edge on the grain side from the point just over halfway leaving about three quarters of an inch or so at the end on our point safe we have got some marks here which we will transfer to the flesh side of our point safe and then we will edge in between these two marks and once you've done the flashlight on the point safe you can then number one edge around the hole of the grain side with our buckle shape what we're going to do is mark that center mark for where our crew will be and then using a set square we're just going to draw a line just to even that up for the edging on this we're going to use our number one edge tool just on the grain side we're going to go just past that crew location on our point strap we're going to edge the whole of the grain side and then once again we're going to get our pattern back and we can mark on the flashlight where we're going to edge from so we just want to put that location mark on and then using a set square we can draw a line across and we're going to edge up from that towards the end of the point and on our gussets we're gonna edge on the flashlight just along that short top section and then we can edge all the way around the grain side now we've done that we can get our stain out and we're going to stain all of our components and using either a polishing cloth or a burnishing stick we can then polish the edges as well and then we will also be doing a crease line so my crease is usually about 1 16 of an inch and we are going to heat that up and we are going to use that on all of our components so we're now going to prepare our gussets so what we're going to do is set our dividers to one quarter of an inch and on the flash side we're going to mark that all the way around except for the short edge at the top we're going to use a stitch groover and we're going to groove a line following the line that we have just marked on at a quarter of an inch we don't need to take too much off although on the flesh side this stitch groover can get blocked up a bit so you may need to do a few passes with it um okay so once you've finished grooving you are going to want to use either a skirt shave or i think they are called french shaves also and we are going to run that along the groove that we have just made and that is just going to skive down the edges of our gussets nicely so if you don't have a french shave that is not a problem this you don't have to do this it may just make your sort of gluing in of your gussets a bit more difficult when we get to that part of the build and so now we have done that to both of our gussets we're going to prep our d shapes so this is what the d-rings are going to attach to and what we want to do is just make the turn so basically that flat edge of the little strap sits in line with just where the egg point begins we're going to put our d-ring in and we're going to mark with our thumbnail as tight as we can to the d-ring we are then going to even this up with our set square and we're going to mark the same on to our second d shape and then using our dividers at our stitching width we're going to draw a line between these two dots and then we can use our pricking irons and stitch mark along this line so i'm using 3.38 millimeter irons from abbey england but any pricking irons that you have are suitable for this project once we've done that we are going to skive down both the point end and the flat end so the point end we're going to skip down to half thickness and the flat end which is going to be behind our turn we want to skive down to nothing so once we have our turn stitched in there won't be any lump there where the sort of end of that part is and then we can glue these together with our d-rings in place so i'm using contact adhesive here and now we have our little d-ring shapes made up we can then use our pattern and mark on the locator and that is where the very point of the d-ring tape is going to go so once we've got them we can make sure that they are in the center of our gusset and then we will be fixing or gluing our shapes in place so you might want to scruff up your leather just a little bit underneath where that d-ring is going to sit and that will just help the glue to stick the two surfaces together [Music] and again i'm using contact adhesive here to glue the shapes on to the gussets and once you have your these glued on in place you want to just make sure that they are even on both sides with your ruler we are then going to get our point strap safe and we are going to mark on the stitching marks from the pattern onto the grain side of our safe and using our dividers draw a line between the two marks and we're going to do this on both ends we can now use our stitch marker and stitch mark along these lines and now what we want to do is skive these ends down to half thickness and we're going to start just behind where the sort of turn or the egg point on that starts and you can cut off any fluffy bits as well so we are now going to get our point strap and our pattern and we're just going to mark on where our stitching needs to be so that's at the end of this rectangle on at the pattern and then use your set square and even that up to the other side and using your dividers we're going to draw two lines down the long ends and then one across the bottom and again we can then stitch mark this and once we're done with our stitch marking we are once again against the skive so we want to skip the last half inch to 5 8 or so down to half thickness and we can now start assembling these two components onto our main bag so if you haven't already you will have some marks on your bag from the pattern and that will be the location of this point safe and you can once again scruff up your leather underneath just a little bit to help the glue to stick to both of the leather parts and remembering with contact adhesive you need to glue both parts of your leather for it to work properly and then you can glue that on in place and use your ruler just to even that up we can then glue on our point strap so and again measuring just to make sure that it is in the middle and we should now have our components ready and we're going to start stitching these together so i'm starting here with the little d shapes on the gusset and i'm going to do two back stitches to start with so that this side will match my other side when i do one and a half back stitches at the end and what we're going to do is we're going to stitch everything on that we have glued down so far so that you see two little d shapes the point strap and the point safe so so i am using a linen thread for this project so obviously i can't burn the ends of my threads so i'm going to do instead is use a bit of pva glue and just dab that on the cut ends of my threads and now hopefully you have all your components looking a bit like this and we're now going to sort out our buckle shape so what we want to do is using our dividers we're going to draw two tram lines that our crew punch can fit in so the crew punch that i'm using is a 37 crew but this will depend entirely on the size of the buckle tongue on your buckle that you have chosen to use so i'm using single roller buckles and for these the 37 crew that i have is the best option and once you have your tram lines put on and your guide in place you can then punch your crew all the way through your buckle shape and then we're going to pop our buckle in and we're going to mark with our thumbnail close as possible to the buckle for our stitching and we can then even that up with our set square and using our dividers at our stitching width we can draw a line between these two points and once we've done that we can then use our pricking iron and stitch mark along this line and now once we've done stitch marking we're going to skive down the point end to half thickness and the straight end we're going to skive down to nothing and now i am going to be using a fixed loop on my tape so i'm going to put my looping around it and mark just where the ends meet now you don't have to use a loop you can use a little metal wire loop if you want or if you're using a whole buckle you will not need a loop at all so once we've done that we can then start assembling our buckle tape so we're going to put a bit of glue on the backside of this and then like i said as i am using a loop i am then going to put this halfway across my strap and mark with my thumbnail so i know where the edge of that loop needs to sit and that wants to sit between the first and second stitch markers so that it gets caught in the first stitch of our shape and now once we've done that we're then going to glue this onto our bag so if you haven't already you will just need to put the locator point onto your bag and then you can scrap up just underneath there a little bit and then using some contact adhesive we're going to glue this in place and we just want to use our ruler and just measure up and make sure that that is in the center of our bag and it is not crooked at all and now for this i'm also going to add in a couple of tacks this is just going to help keep that in place because this bit is a little bit fiddly in the clams once you're happy we are then going to stitch this in place so for this we are going to do one back stitch and then we are going to do one stitch over the edge through just the main body of the bag now the reason for this is so that we can get that first stitch nice and tight and as we have got that loop there is not going to be any issues with that stitch of the edge wearing at all so you can see i've done my back stitch here and now i'm all in in line with that very first stitch closest to the buckle but just through the main body of the bag so we're gonna have a bit of an l shape here so you can see i've just pulled that nice and tight and you can see how nice and tight that stitch is now on the buckle and then once you've done that you can then carry on and stitch this as normal and now once you get towards the end of your buckle shape what we're going to do is we're going to pre-all the last four or so stitch marks of our shape and then we're going to put our loop in place and now doing this means that we've got a bit of a guide already there for our all to follow when we now real the holes with the loop in place and we want to aim to get our ball into the original holes that we have on the back side of our bag and then once you're doing the first stitch on your loop you want to put your needle through the loop and then you can all from the other side else you're gonna end up having a stitch over top of that loop and we don't want that so and then once you have stitched your loop you want to make sure you do one stitch over the edge just to match the original side and then we can do a one and a half back stitches okay so you should have your components looking something like this and what we're going to do now is just do some finishing touches whilst everything is flat as it's a little bit easier to do this now and then when the bag is finished so to start with we are going to use a loop stick and just block that loop that we have just stitched in to our buckle shape and you can now do a little bit of restaining on your components and we are also going to re-crease everything that we have stitched so far like i said because it's flat it is easier to do that now then afterwards once we've got our bag together okay so once we've done that we can then put our point strap through the point safe so that is in place and we're now going to stitch mark or mark for our stitching on our main body of the bag so if you haven't already you will need to just transfer the stitching marks from your pattern onto the body of your bag and we're going to draw a line down to the straight edge of the bag and then using our pricky knives we can stitch mark along that line okay so now we have done our stitch marking what we are going to do is start to glue our gussets into our main bag so using our contact adhesive once again we're going to glue along the two straight sides of our bag so we can then glue along the sides of our gussets as well you can see here i have stained that area that was sort of skived down that's an optional extra and it is up to you if you would like to do that but once you've got your glue on what we're going to do is using some warm water just wet those edges and that's going to help our edges to turn when we get them and glued into our bag so we're going to start by lining them up with that sort of top straight edge and now this bit can be a bit fiddly but you just need to persevere and what we're going to do is we're going to get our edges aligned all the way around our bag so it might need a bit of manipulation and you may need to get some clips just to hold that the gussets of your bag in place whilst you do this because they do have a tendency to pull apart to start with so what i'd like to do is glue the front edge down and then start getting the turn in place but before that is in fully i will then glue in to the sort of second half of the straight edge of the bag making sure that that gusset is sitting so that there's one stitch mark over the edge and like i said this bit is a bit fiddly so if you need to use some clips please do and then once you've got the one side in you can do the other side so like i said i do the two straight edges first just to make sure that they are in place and then the gusset can sort of slip in around that and you may need to use your bone folder to help push it into the right place but the aim here is to get all of our edges flush together okay so now we've got our gussets in what we're going to do is double hand stitch all the way around these so i have taken a generous arm width and a half for this just to ensure that i do have enough thread to go all the way around and on this we're going to do one back stitch and a stitch over the edge so and so once you've done your back stitch and your stitch over the edge you can then continue stitching your bag as usual so so hello no you can't come up you can't come up no what are you doing what are you doing hello get down let's go let's get down skyler skyler no get down get down go away get down get down go get down stay there stay down there so and once you get to the end of your stitching you're going to make sure you have one stitch over the edge of that gusset and then you're going to do one and a half back stitches now once you've got your first gusset in place you can then stitch in the other side as well and so you should have something that looks a little bit like this and as i said earlier i'm using linen thread so i'm going to use a bit of pva glue just on the ends of the cut ends of my thread just to make sure that they stay in place and we're now going to start making our point strap so we should have one strap and a bit left over from earlier so what we're going to do is we're going to cut a square end on one on the shorter one and then we're going to mark one and a half inches down on the grain side and then flip that over and mark three inches on the flesh side that is going to be our buckle turn so i want my strap to be 10 inches overall when made up so i'm going to measure 12 inches from that center crew point as i'm gonna have a two inch turn on the other end of this buckle strap using the guide from earlier we can then draw on that egg point and cut around this and then on the flashlight of that end that we have just cut the point for we're going to mark four inches and that is going to be where the very point of that turn is going to sit and then using our number one edge tool we're going to edge between that mark and the buckle turn that we have just marked out as well on the flash side and all around on the grain side so we are going to want to mark that point strap out with this as well so we're going to once again use our guide to cut an egg point and then we're going to mark where that hole is that's going to be the first hole on our shoulder strap so i'm going to mark nine holes one inch apart for this strap and now the overall length of the strap is up to you my hide is quite short so i wanted this strap to be as long as possible so i am just putting my pattern straight on the edge here and drawing another egg point on that end and then cutting this out with my head knife [Music] and we can then number one edge the hole of the grain side of our shoulder point strap and then on the flash side we're going to do is make sure we have the turn end and we are once again going to mark four inches because we're going to have a two inch tan and we're going to edge from there all the way up and around on the flesh side and then we can stain and increase these two straps once we've done that we're going to set our dividers and we are going to draw another set of tram lines for our buckle end on this and punch our crew all the way through once we do that we can then make or fold the turn over and we're going to pop our buckle in and we're going to mark as close as we can to that buckle on the front side of that strap so you can see here i'm pinching that nice and close to the buckle i'm marking with my thumbnail we also want to mark where that back of the tent sits and we'll mark there as well and then using our set square we can even these lines up onto the other side of our strap we're then going to set our dividers to our stitching width and draw a little cross down the bottom of our point end so we can see where our stitch line needs to be we can then put our clip onto our strap and what we're going to do is hold that in place and then using an awl we're going to mark through the very center of the cross that we have just made on the end of that turn we're going to push that all the way through so the very end of that all comes out and marks where our stitching needs to finish we can then with it all in hold that turn nice and tight to the clip and mark where it needs to our stitching needs to finish and also we want to mark where the sort of egg point starts so we'll have two mark on one side which we can then transfer to the other side which will be a straight line between them and then we're going to even up the center hole just to make sure that that is central and using a circle object we are going to make an egg point on that end and this is the same technique that we'll be using on the other strap that we have cut out and once we have everything marked out we can stitch mark along the lines that we have just made [Music] and once we have everything marked out we can then skive the ends of all our turns down to half thickness now for my buckle strap i need another fixed loop and i'm also going to mark out for a running loop so for this i'm going to wrap the strap all the way around and have a bit of an overlap here it doesn't need to be too big this overlap and we're just going to mark with our thumb where we want that to be and we can cut that off we're then going to nick the corners on this little loop as well so now we've done that we can then wrap it around our strap once again and we're going to mark where that overlap sort of finishes with our thumbnail and then using our stitch iron or our pricking lines we're going to stitch mark up to that point so for mine this is just three pricking marks and we want to mark that on all four ends of our loop now that we've done our stitch marking we are going to discard down the very ends of this loop down to half thickness once we know we can then start assembling our buckle turn so we're gonna pop a buckle in and then as before with our loop we're gonna mark where the center is and then we're going to actually tack these in place i find with buckle turns and loops it is easier to use tacks than it is to glue them i'm just going to tack the loop and a bit further back on the turn just to hold everything straight and in place we can then glue on our point strap and our shoulder strap with the holes marked out we can glue that onto our clip so so we're now going to stitch our running loop so if you are new to running loops i have a whole video dedicated on how to make them which i shall link above so you can see what to do there just for time saving purposes i'm just going to whiz through this on this video so we can keep the time down a bit and then once you stitch your running loop you can then block it on to your loop stick and then once that is blocking you can stitch your buckle turn and your strap which is attached to the clip so again for these we are going to do two back stitches so that they match the other side when we do our one and a half back stitches ah now we've finished stitching what we're going to do is just do some finishing touches on this running loop so we're just going to use the bone folder and just polish the edges and then we're going to tap that down with our attack hammer just to get this loop nice and square once we've done that we're going to heat up our screw crease and we're just going to re-crease all around this running loop and then once we've done our finishing touches to this wedding loop we can put this onto our buckle strap and we can then glue the clip onto this remaining end of our strap so and then once we've got that all glued in we can double hand stitch our final clip to our shoulder strap uh and once we've finished stitching all our straps i'm just going to put a little bit more pva glue on to the cut ends of my threads just to hold them in place we can then start doing our finishing touches so we're going to even up our holes on our point strap of the shoulder strap using our dividers and then using a rotary hole punch we can then punch all these holes and again the size of the hole will depend on the size of the buckle tongue on the chosen buckle that you are using if you are unsure what size to do the best thing to do is to do some testing first just to make sure you get the right size we can also then even up and punch the hole on our point strap on our main bag and we can now start to do our finishing touches to the main bag so what we're going to do is using some sandpaper and we're going to wrap that around our bone folder and we're just going to sand down the edges of the bag just to get them nice and even so this will make it easier for us to get a nice finish on the edges of our bag once we've done sanding we can then restain and polish the edges of the bag and we're also going to restain our straps that we have made as well and then we're going to re-crease everything also the reason i want to do some re-creasing on this is because during the stitching process the original crease line can fade so this is just going to cement it back in place and just give a nice finish to our bag and we can re-crease the fixed loop on our buckle strap as well as re-creasing around the turns and the rest of the strap and what i'm going to do to finish this off is using some leather care i'm going to just feed the bag and give it a nice finish to it so i'm going to apply the leather feed with a sponge and then once i've covered it all with the leather feed i can then use a cloth just to buff it to that finish you so that is the end of this video thank you very much for watching if you liked the video please click the thumbs up button and subscribe for more videos and tutorials and why not check out some more of my videos by clicking on one of these links here

Channel: J.H.Leather

Views: 159,690

Rating: 4.9189386 out of 5

Keywords: DIy, handmade, pdf, make along, leather work, leather craft, jhleather, etsy, uk saddlery, tutorial, leather tutorial, society of master saddlers, craftswomen, rural crafts, traditional crafts, leather, Handstitching, jh leather, leather pattern, pattern pack, leather craft tutorials, beginner leatherwork, beginner leather craft projects, shouler bag, leather bag, cross body bag, veg tanned bag, veg tanned leather

Id: M6c-_iZXL8Y

Length: 54min 50sec (3290 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 15 2020