M1 MacBook Pro that doesn't power on. Can we recover the data?

hi everyone tonight we have a special video we have our very first m1 macbook pro in for board repair for data recovery purposes um you may be wondering why is the customer just going to apple for a warranty uh board replacement well they have important data on their machine and unfortunately on any of the new machines if your board fails your data is gone unless you could find someone who could properly repair the board since the storage is actually these two chips right here these two nand chips so solder to the board under filled so it's not like an ssd or hard drive you just pull out and get your data off of if the board fails you're kind of out of luck again unless somebody can repair your board so let's see what this does so we're going to plug in our usbc charger plug it in let's see all right looks like we get five volts on the charger uh almost 100 milliamps and the fan is running at 100 speed right from the start so i unplug it plug it back in the fan doesn't ramp up it just immediately spins to full um so typically that means there's something wrong on the sl rails we have no schematic we have no repair information so this is going to be a pretty interesting learning curve here um so anytime we see something as high as like 100 milliamps on on a board that's not booting that's typically a short somewhere so let's go ahead and get this board out and then let's have a look and go from there all right our logic board is out let's go ahead and jump right into this and have a look under the scope i'm actually pretty excited to see what we're gonna find here so let's see switch over to microscope and let's just give it an overview so you know on anything like this what i always recommend people do just give it an overview under the microscope see what you see visually if there's anything wrong and that'll that's usually your telling factor right there i mean you'd be surprised how many issues that can be solved by just looking even complex issues you could usually just see them so far this is very clean i mean this design feels very much like other boards um there's differences that i see the charge controller is the same circuit it looks like much of this is copy and paste from um 2159 that's different right there for sure backlight circuit looks the same they pretty much had that for a long long time usb circuit looks wait a second cd 30 17 b12 but if you notice something this right here yeah i'm pretty sure you're not supposed to be able to do that on a chip like yeah that you're not supposed to be able to do that you're not supposed to be able to just flick up a piece of the silicon and see the die that looks abnormal and i think this is our problem just by visual inspection so first off the likely cause of this is somebody plugged in some lousy usb device or a lousy charger because this generally won't just happen by itself it can happen by itself but most likely the cause this is somebody using a lousy charger so i'm going to go ahead and pull this chip taking note of the orientation the dot is in that corner let's go ahead and put some flux around it i don't really need that much so i don't really plan on ultrasonicing this cd 3217 is off let's wick this area a bit and then we'll grab a new one or rebuild one i should say because there's no those aren't really available just yet so i'm just going to get all that lead free off it's a wick you clean it up have a look it should be good all right we're ready for our uh new chip let's put a little bit of flux down i don't want too much because sometimes you put too much flux on bga chips it kind of gives the chip a tendency to um float away and that's not what i want the cd 3217s already is really hard to align just because of the weird bga pattern that they used on it i don't know i don't really know why they went with that pattern there's no functional difference from a normal pattern or anything so just a case of engineers being engineers if you know what i mean all right spread out let's go ahead and grab our chip and let the alignment mark is gonna be like this let's get it as close as we can to the positioning of the other one so i'm going to use the other one as a reference to line it up that's pretty close um now what we're going to do is go ahead and move in with our hot air um i'm going to go with a low airflow i want like 430 degrees and like we'll do 40 liters per minute because i don't want to blow the chip away flow into place come on and it's in place i'm gonna let the board cool for a little bit we'll test it but it looks looks like it's decently in place and align nicely as it should be this will clean around here while we're waiting for it to cool down we don't want to put alcohol on the chip right away that would be bad you all right now let's see if um it actually turns on and gets 20 volts here so let's grab our usb-c port all right let's plug in our charger or the usb amp meter right here so you guys can see it this was the port that was exploded so let's use that one let's see what it gives us still nothing see what does this one do so it looks like it's still staying at five volts and 51 milliamps and this one port has nothing let's reverse it i wonder if there's an ldo or something shorted in that circuit all right this side works i wonder if that's normal we don't know um what exactly how these new machines works let's go ahead and put this back in the enclosure and we will go from there and one thing i noticed there was a screw stuck right here which is very strange that i probably that probably happened when i took it apart but that's odd so let's set this back in the enclosure and see what it does if there's anything different so i want to make sure i plug in everything because we don't know what's essential and non-essential on this machine for all we know that the the processor sees something unplugged and says it says nope we're not turning on and the charging circuit may be set up differently as well so we're going to plug in everything let's uh need the screws for the battery where's the screws here they are all right let's plug in our charger see if there's any difference in symptoms so i guess it would help to actually plug the port in let's try this side nothing on this side so something's still up in that circuit i'm guessing and our fan did not go to max so that's a start but i also have no trackpad click and nothing further in the power up sequence and 51 milliamps is still a little bit high for the board doing nothing so if the board is doing nothing 51 milliamps still seems like quite a lot so i'm just going to probably do some thermal imaging here let's see see if anything abnormal is getting warm and i don't see anything except this area right here which i'm guessing is going to be the t2 chip let's take up that wait this doesn't have a t2 chip that's right it's m1 so let's take up the shield right here let's see what's under here it's a little bit warm it's not overly warm just slightly warm but let's see what's under there let's go back to scope view my scope is acting really funny here let's see all right that's better so what is going to be under the shields let me unplug the battery ah they have capacitors under here so hmm let's check for a short so they have you know what this is this is going to be the uh power phases for the cpu it looks like that i'm willing to bet is the pmic that's an apple chip obviously it's got an apple on it so that's probably going to be the the um pmic and there's a lot of traces right here these traces look like they handle a lot of power and i'm guessing that's going to be for the cpu power phases right here that's what makes sense to me so if this is getting warm that concerns me for possible short to the cpu which would be lovely so let's plug in the charger again and let's see if anything notably gets warm under there i don't see how that would affect it i mean it could very well be just the t2 chip saying hey you know i'm getting not the t2 chip m1 sorry just feeling i don't feel anything getting too warm there unless it's on the other side too let's get some thermal imaging here nothing is overly warm let's pull the board and do the other side i'm kind of thinking that there's going to be an ldo short let's try on the other pin just to rule it out on the other port i mean and there's warmth but it's not yeah there's some definite warmth here it's hard to see because i can't really show you guys here it's not like crazy warmth but there is definitely um definitely some warmth here all right let's see if you guys can see so it's probably really hard to see but there is a little bit of warmth right there by these capacitors doesn't look like it might be on the other side of the board too that's the thing i can't really tell so let's get this board out and have a look again this is probably going to be a long repair video because we do not have any schematics that have no board views nothing like that so we're kind of going off of um just what we know already and kind of piecing uh piecing together the puzzle for this these new series boards and this board is actually an 820 2020 now i don't know about you but naming a board after such a lousy year is kind of probably not the best idea tends to bring bad luck that number is bad luck so hopefully these boards hold up but since first one and only four months in i don't have high hopes we'll see though this is surprisingly not very iphone if you guys know what i mean like a lot of the new boards are very uh they share a lot of characteristics with the iphone and this is really not like that this is more like a laptop board than anything so directly on the other side of these caps looks like there's nothing there's a little controller here so let's have a look i'm going to probe around the cd 3217 too one possibility is that would generate heat is if that controller that renes controller whatever it is that we looked at earlier if that is for the pp3v42 g3 hot circuit then that could very well be getting hot under load if there is a shorted capacitor around the cd3217 i'm referring to this chip right here it doesn't look like it though i'm willing to guess that's the driver for the cpu mosfets right here now that i think about it but let's see so let's go back under the scope um yeah so these guys right here i'm willing to guess that's the driver here but something was definitely getting warm here so let's just probe around the cd 3217 and see if there's anything that's shorted let's grab my meter interesting so the our dc in circuit is shorted 53 ohms to ground i'm guessing this is the dc infuse right here to previous models this was the dc infuse so 51 ohms to ground is way too low resistance for something like dcn the charger is not going to like that at all so my guess is we've got a short somewhere um well we know we have a short somewhere it's a partial short let me plug in the charger and let me do some thermal imaging to see if there's anything on this side that's getting hotter than it should be and yes there's two things that are heating up very very plain as day the first one we have is going to be the cd3217 we just replaced and the other one is going to be this controller for what i presume is the cpu um let's see if you guys can see this that in and of itself does not necessarily mean that either chip is bad um yeah you guys can't see it but there's two chips very clearly getting hot the cd 3217 is 140 150 degrees and the other one is also pretty hot 100 354 so that in and of itself doesn't mean they're shorted what it could mean is that they're supplying power to something that is shorted that's my guess so let's go ahead and try and inject a little voltage and go from there um let's see let's go back to our microscope view so what i'm going to do is inject some voltage here and see if we can confirm it i don't let's see i want to see what kind which what chip this is and what it does uh let's google knowing applets i'm almost certain it's going to be locked down but we need to find that so let's see it is a i think renaez and intercell are the same thing i'm probably not pronouncing that right renee says so what 501 c r 0 be and the only thing i found is an ifixit guide which is not going to have what we need so we have no idea what this is we cannot get it it's locked down as usual so let's inject some voltage on dcn and see what we find um i don't think it's bad i i really don't think it's bad i think it's an ldo or something around here somewhere is pulling too much power from something like nothing seems shorted in the usual areas except this this is 28 ohms this ain't right right here all right this capacitor let's just move it to the side um i just want to rule it out so i'm just going to move it like that so we don't lose it and now i'll probe dc in again to see all right still shorted and that's still 9 ohms to ground this other cd3217 may be bad all right let's inject dc in actually let's see if we have a better point other than that fuse i'll use the fuse uh it's not really going to be under the scope that well um because the wire doesn't really reach all that far and plus it's going to be through thermal imaging that we're going to make the diagnosis not of our visual so show you guys the best i can get some solder in here i hope they didn't like run the cpu power off of dcn or something that would be that would be a disaster all right i'm gonna put in our lead we're gonna start at three volts and at three volts we're pulling nothing it's up at the four at eight volts we're pulling half an amp i'm all the way at 15 volts and nothing is getting hot except this yeah the only thing that's getting hot is the cd3217s and this chip right here this grenaeus chip or whatever this is getting blazing hot which is abnormal i mean i that doesn't make any sense to me why that would be getting hot because that's for the cpu i believe unless it's for pp3v3 g3 hot again i don't know like that's yeah i want to see if there's anything around it well one way is take this thing off and see if any uh if the shorts go away so just it's odd that's a very odd presentation that the cd 3217s are hot along with that one chip so we may have a multi issue here let me just look and let's take off the heatsink let's see if the cpu has like a burn mark or something in it that's something that would always happen on the intel chips whenever they would get a spike the dye would blow off or something so i just want to pull the heatsink off and have a look and see uh if there's a scorch mark or something on it that way we don't waste any more time big cpu honestly this is like almost bigger than the intel cpus and i don't see anything that concerns me here let's clean off the thermal paste yeah there's nothing it the entire cpu is under filled so this i like and i hate it at the same time i mean nobody's going to change this i don't think but you're going to get morons that heat them up and stuff and that's going to ruin it and it will protect it from liquid so i got to give it that so i don't think this cpu is dead whatsoever i don't think there's any issues here um like on the intel chips we would see scorch marks or something you just don't see that here so i'm gonna take off this one qfn chip right here that is getting burning hot and we'll go from there the problem is is we can't get that because apple does not supply that it's locked down from the manufacturer the configuration looks a lot like um something that would be used for the cpu it looks like a buck converter so that could be the case or not uh we don't know could be a controller for the 3v3 g3 hot i don't know again we're going to take it off it's just it's just it's pretty suspicious due to its positioning that it's for the cpu another possibility is they're using the rtc line again to power the cd3217s and that would make sense that this uh would be spitting out that line too and it's just getting overly hot from from increased load from a short so i do not want to lose this i'm just going to put it aside we're going to check for a short and see if our short is still there and if it is we're going to take off this other cd 3217 and try it we should actually get these new boards some of them will turn on without a cd 3217 and we still have the same short so my best guess right here and right now what this is and given our current findings since we have a shorted a capacitor with a kind of a short on it near the other cd 3217 my guess is that they're using the same buck converter ic to power the cd3217s so if something is using too much power on the cd 3217s that chip is going to get blazing hot because there's an increased load on it so i'm going to pull off this other cd 3217 and see if the short resolves itself and then we'll try and turn it on and then we'll replace the other one the c3217s are very scarce you can't really find them so i will have to find another one and that may be difficult but we'll get it done so let's go ahead and take off this one right here some flux around it i want to make sure to move this capacitor back over as well that's off let's check for a short now and what do you no know short so yep no more short okay so we need another cd 3217 this one is for sure bad i want to see if this boots so i'm going to put this other chip back on i want to see if it boots so all right that one cd 3217 has been removed and we still get the same symptoms this one i see still gets burning burning hot so let's probe around this and see what we find um short and this one is 50 ohms to ground so 50 ohms and i think that was similar to this right here no no short on dcn anymore that's 50 ohms what's going on with our meter here okay 50 ohms zero ohms zero ohm so there's a short on this line you know what let's see if we can find pp bus pp bus right here and there's no short on pp bus so it's not a pp bus short this is bizarre so let's inject a little bit of voltage on this line and let's see if what boils so i'm going to put some alcohol around this chip so you guys can see it and to those that are new to electronics repair no this will not hurt anything um using alcohol or distilled water for diagnosis purposes like this is not going to damage anything whatsoever totally normal totally uh accepted diagnostic practice let's turn on our power supply let's start at like half a volt because i don't want to damage anything so we're going to be really careful and start at half a volt and see what boils because something is probably at zero ohm something is gonna we're pulling over an amp it's this chip right here this is shorted so my only guess is this had some spike on dcn and this had to have killed this chip let's go up to one volt one volt's not really going to hurt anything so there had to be some spike on dc in yep look at that there had to have been a spike on dcn and that ended up killing um this right here now like i said can't really um find these yet so let's take this off again and let's see if our short is resolved around that i see this is still 50 ohms that might be a cpu line or something i don't know but the short is resolved so my guess like i said is a spike on dcn so we need a new cd 3217 right here we need a new one of these um so i'm going to go ahead and find those and then update this video when i do um they're very you there's really not that much information on this machine since it's just brand new so i'll have to do some hunting for that ic and then we will come back to this okay we have our new ics in uh they're pretty hard to get at least the um varnasis chip was i had to find somebody that had an icloud lock board in the repair industry that was willing to pull it off so hopefully as time goes on these become more available but i don't have high hopes i'm pretty sure apple locked down the supply chain on this like they did the cd 3217 and isla 9240 which is plain wrong but anyway let's go ahead and get this chip installed on the board so it's in place now let's go for our cd 3217 here we gotta wick these pads away a little bit now you can i can never really point this out enough do not use pressure when doing this just kind of rest the iron on the wick and drag the wick or else you you will rip pads it's super easy to do it especially on the cd 3215s and cd 3217s and if you do you're gonna have a really fun time running a wire under this chip so and that should be good i'm not too concerned about that right there let's go ahead and get a little bit of flux on this a little bit more flux actually let me clean up some of that burn stuff we don't want that there and our new cd3217 or reballed cd3217 look at this it's actually a different looks like a different chip i mean it's the same chip but it's different you can tell the difference in manufacturing there different uh different style same chip different style probably different factories or different date codes they should be fully intercompatible with each other thank let's give that a second to cool down all right let's plug in our usbc port and let's see if this actually works so let's grab our usbc amp meter plug it in and see if we get 5 volts or 20 volts now i don't know how these are set up because they're so new so we will see 5 volts 0 amps 5 volts 10 amps and it's cycled let's try the other port and the processor is hot so i don't know that's a good sign if the processor is hot let's see if we have any rails present so let's try measuring pp bus it's also possible these need to be in the enclosure to work i mean it's such a new device so some of them are like that and pp bus is present at 12.31 volts and it dips down to like 10 or 11 for a brief second and the processor i mean the processor is visibly warm so that's not a sign that i like to see whenever our cpu is warm and the board is not doing anything but let's go ahead and test this in the enclosure just to rule out everything since pb bus is present maybe it needs to see a battery or something like that so let's go ahead and throw this in the enclosure and see what it does all right the device is back in the enclosure with the battery connected while we're about to connect the battery right now and let's see what we get five volts 20 volts okay so we're getting 20 volts 19 34 milliamps that's booting current and we have an apple logo but we can't see the apple logo there's looks like there's no backlight so that'll that's interesting let's see what i can see if it boots or whatever it does you can definitely see an apple logo in there let's see i don't know if camera can see it but there's definitely an apple logo all right we're at the login screen i could see see from the login screen i'm wondering if the brightness is just set super low or something um let's see maybe if i get my phone light shine it over here you guys can see that this does indeed boot all right look let's see glare um i see that you can see the login screen right there so this is booting um but there's no backlight so this is going to be an interesting experience so the first thing i want to do let's see what backlight output voltage is um it's entirely possible it's something simple or apple did something really cruel and restricted like unplugging something or it knows when the screen is unplugged or some nonsense like that i think that's very unlikely but let's see we know backlight output voltage is going to be on these capacitors right here because that's the same as it was prior 0 and zero so we have zero volts on both um 12.84 volts on one side of the fuse 12.85 12.84 volts on the other side all right so there's no backlight most likely no backlight enable so let's go in here um let's have a look one thing i want to try the p ram reset but i don't think hmm all right it just restarted all right let's restart it now and we have chime no backlight this is weird i i feel like this is something that that's probably going to be software all right we're back at the login screen let's try something simple let's reseat the screen connector so battery is unplugged screen connector is visually fine plug it in make sure it's seated really good and it is so let's talk about backlight backlight being zero volts a short and backlight output is plausible or the backlight circuit's not getting enabled now i don't think i can check enable here because we do not have a schematic and we're still at zero volts all right let's go ahead and give the backlight circuit a little look over um let's see so let's check for short on backlight output so that's going to show up on these capacitors right here i know that from experience uh this side no short that side's ground no short no sure driver looks alright hmm you guys see what i see look at this now we have no idea what value this resistor is but this resistor looks like it has a hole in it so this likely blue for some reason i don't know why that blue but that looks like that resistor looks blown so on this machine we have no schematic we have no board view we have nothing like that so we're going to have to make an educated guess at what value that resistor is and one thing we could actually do is look at um the year's prior board which is going to be an a200 let's do that now and let's see if we can find a similar resistor here so eight two zero zero five zero five nine eight and let's find the backlight circuit on this board and it does not look like it is remotely close it looks like it is going to be um let's see opposite side of the board okay here's our backlight circuit on the previous uh generation 2019 intel model that's almost the same board so here's our backlight driver right here now if we look at the m1 board what we can see is that the dot on that chip is at the bottom so the dot is going to be pin one so if we look at our display capture we could see this is going to be pin one and now we notice we have a capacitor here and then we have our pp5 g3s coming in and it looks like this goes to pp5eso backlight and on the schematic let's do a search and let's see what this actually does on the schematic so here's the schematic um what resistor number is that yeah right here that's going to be the vdd and vdda so that's going to be the voltage input on the chip or one of the voltage inputs on the chip um and what value is that that was a zero ohm resistor so it's essentially a jumper wire right there now if we look at this this resistor leads to the second pin from the end the end is unconnected second pin and then one thing i noticed on the other board is this capacitor is also connected to that chip and it looks like on this board it goes to the third pin in so third pin in from this side and second one from this side let's have a look at this board over here so here's our board and it looks like we've got to put this at an angle to see it and it does look like one side goes to the second pin let's see yeah one side goes the second pin and the other one goes to the third pin in so that is my guess is that's what these lines are going to be for right here um let's go ahead and try a 0 ohm resistor there one thing i also want to check let's see um let's see what voltage is on what that other side of the resistor right there so on the other case on this other board it's going to be pp5 vg3s we don't know if that rail exists on this board it could be totally different g3s is essentially a g3 hot rail meaning always present always on so they may have a different different rail powering it or the same my guess is it's going to be either off of a another 5 volt rail or 3.3 volt rail that's most typical anyway but we're going to find out just plug the battery in i'm going to plug in the charger and let's measure we have 20 volts and we have booting current now and we have 2 volts zero volts two volt that's kind of strange i wouldn't expect that to be two volts went down to one point nine two volt rail i don't know that's a bit bizarre just check for short on that side just to be safe in case of this five volts and being pulled down by something they might have like a special backlight rail or something my other concern is this driver may be dead as well sure no powers connected and that's 17 ohms to ground that's a bit low for my taste so 17 ohms to ground this is probably a 5 volt rail and it's being pulled down so let's go ahead and find our short there i'm going to start at a very low voltage here because i don't know where this is coming from i mean like i said this whole device is a learning curve because there's literally no information out there on it so i'm going to we're going to only inject half of a volt for right now we'll see what amtra is and then we'll go up we know we could at least safely put two volts there one lead on ground one lead right here and that's pulling nothing i wonder if they're running it off like the processor power or something we know they're doing usb like that so let's go up to one volt 1.8 volts yeah there's no parasitic amp draw there all right it must be a low resistance line let's go ahead and grab a 402 1 ohm resistor and let's put it in i'm not going to take the board out i'm just going to switch to a smaller nozzle and we'll see if it works or what happens so let's grab a resistor right here being very careful not to heat anything else in this area as well we don't want to kill anything and that capacitor came off that's not too important we'll just steal that from another board as well if we can't find it that happens capacitors i don't really worry too much about and actually it's right here so we don't need to all these are really four is just to smooth out the the voltage a bit it's not not critical or anything now for a resistor i'll get a little bit leaded solder on there just to help it flow into place a little bit easier we'll clean that up when we're done here it'll look just fine the reason why i say that is when we heat that capacitor that little bit of solder is going to go under and then we'll clean up anything that's left over when we're done and it will not look like a disaster like it does now there's one side this resistors doesn't want to be just like that looks perfect all right our board is back in the enclosure and as you can see this is a booting fixed m1 macbook pro i don't want to reveal the customer's name but this turns on the trackpad works typing works all of that um so this should should be good to go we learned quite a bit on this um so now measuring uh pp um 3v or the input to the backlight circuit it's 5 volts now which is really strange it was 2 volts prior so that makes me think is if there if it doesn't sense a load on that line then it will not go to 5 volts again i could be totally wrong about this we don't have schematics yet um but this is fixed so to go over what we did and what was wrong so came in with no power 0 volts on usb or 5 volts on usbc with high fan speed uh under visual inspection the usb-c controller is visibly exploded we replaced that one we realized we had another short on the one right next to it as well as the rhinesis or whatever it's called power ic which possibly powers the cpu vcore regulators as well that was shorted we replaced that and then we found a coded or a blown resistor on backlight and we replaced that and this is a fixed machine so i hope this video helps us in the future solve these problems when we get to start getting more of these devices on and that's it for today this is fix thanks for watching

Channel: TCRS Circuit

Views: 3,370

Rating: 5 out of 5

Keywords: M1, m1 macbook, m1 macbook pro, macbook pro, macbook repair, data recovery

Id: 110x5rMHCIw

Length: 58min 57sec (3537 seconds)

Published: Mon Feb 15 2021