Lugsail Rigging Upgrades

in recent weeks I've been documenting the fixes upgrades and customizations made to my Oak and mahogany sailboat it's an open day boat and was designed by renowned boat builder Paul gartside it's a yina bay 1 design which is a soup top version of another Paul Gart side boat called Skylock in this video I'm going to cover upgrades to the running rigging my boat is set up with a standing lug sail attached to an unstayed Mast the halard is connected to the lug sale yard via a snap hook with ey it's tied off with a boning knot and runs through a sheave at the top of the M then out the other side down the length of the m to a tel block and onto a bay pin where it's tied off the halard Rope is a lyos classic braid on braid a popular choice for a cruising sailboat it's high strength with less than 5% stretch for me the helard feels a little thin in the hand I'd like something with a bit more diameter I also want to replace the 1:1 down hall with a 2:1 ratio the boat was designed and built with an eyebolt for a 2:1 down hall but when I bought it it was set up with a one one to one I want to make it easier to get more tension in the lug sail the final section in this video will tackle upgrading the connection between the main sheet tough no fiddle block with cleat that makes off to the traveler line that runs across the midship thwart the main sheet fiddle block with cleat makes off to the traveler line via a small swivel shackle the flatness of the shackle is likely to cause rope chafing over time and I can't easily separate the block from The Traveler line without either undoing the split ring or untying The Traveler line which is a bit of a faf I'm going to replace the 6 mm lyos halad with 8 mm that doesn't sound like much of a jump in size but I find the 8 mm more comfortable to hold the sheaves in my tfel blocks have a diameter of 30 mm with a width of 10 mm a halad with a diameter of 8 mm is the maximum recommended for this size block the sheave at the Mast head is larger so it can easily take the new halad installing the new halad was simple enough I just removed the snap hook from the old halad and tied it to the new one using a bowling when I bought the new lyos rope I opted to have the ends heat sealed with heat set end caps I'm much happier with the 8 mm helard in this photo you can see how the one to one down hall was set up when I bought the boat it runs from a stopper knot in the jaws of the boom down to a tough block then onto a bay pin I replaced it with a 2:1 configuration here you can see the new halad and downhall installed the down hall line from the Boom is now tied off to a tough block and a new length of 8 mm L Ros runs from an eyeball on the deck through the block and onto a beay pin this allows me to more easily get significant tension in the down hall which is critical to getting good performance from a lug sale I've added a witchard stainless steel bow shackle to make detaching the main sheet from The Traveler line much easier when packing up the boat or anchoring it has a self-locking mechanism this prevents a shackle pin from unscrewing itself and working Loose as a result of vibration the shackle will also run smoothly along the traveler line without chafing it the bow shackle is a little large I'll replace it with a smaller d-shackle at some point but it will do for now you may have noticed that all of the deck fittings bronze apart from the eyebolt that holds a halad block I have a shiny new bronze eyebolt to replace it but that task is for another day I've got more updates to make to other parts of the boat before I test the rigging changes in the wild so I'll let you know how it goes in a few weeks

Channel: Waving, not drowning

Views: 2,865

Keywords: wooden boat, wood boat, boat restoration, boat repair, boat renovation, lugsail, sailboat, halyard, mainsheet, downhaul, rigging, running rigging, lugsail rigging

Id: gpqHIXDSaAg

Length: 5min 8sec (308 seconds)

Published: Sun May 05 2024