LS Wiring Harness Part 4 Project Rowdy Ep016

[Music] there's a time in every project when you get to a point you realize they there shouldn't be parts left over or missing apart I guess I'm at that point this used to be this was an area right here where I basically when I depend all those wires from the PCM connector and the and the two little connectors that was right here see 100 150 133 as well as a fuse block all those wires got rerouted I put them right here these were wires that I expected to all disappear when when the connectors that I was taking out worked worth taking out and when I got done with all that I had these three wires left over and I've got I got to deal with these and I've done done research I forgot about the purple wire the purple wire was original this was the wire it was originally used in one of the o2 sensors that I repurposed for the fan control relay this is the one it's I've got it back in the other still in the harness back there and it specifically is this one where I've got to add a wire to to pin 42 of the blue connector and it's for my fan my cooling fan relay control so this is not a problem this is just going to go I'm going to reroute this through the harness back over to the blue connector I'll punch it in tube of connector pin number 42 this black I was not expecting but it's not that uncommon I've tested this I went in it and trimmed off the end and and test tested it on it - any one of these ground connections so I get product active test against this ground this is just a standard ground wire and it grounded something probably in one of those see 100 C 150 two blocks why that so this is just an extra ground wire that's now not being used I'm gonna go up to the junction place and I'm going to cut it off no no big deal this gray wire is a different story this square I can tell because it's got one of these metal pins on it this came from the PCM so why did I take this off the PCM when it's connector didn't disappear if I follow this over it actually goes to my temperature sensor so why would I pull that out and what I found I believe I found is that there is a junction where this great wire not only feeds the the temperature sensor with a low signal it offers a split a splitter and it goes also down the transmission harness portion and provides something as that's similar to the transmission and so it must have been labeled on one of these sheets as transmission and that's why I depended but so that he is this has got to go back in the pin connect the the PCM connector I just don't know which one I got a call out to Brandon at lt1 swap comm and I'm going to I've explained the situation I'm sure he'll get back to me I've contacted a couple of times a super nice guy so once I figure out where this one goes back in I'm going to I'll clip off the wire where it used to come down to the transmission and then I'll just run this back over and we'll get my temperature sensor back connected and we'll be good somewhere reroute this forward so just wanted to show you not you know an all project goes exactly as planned but you know that's a little easy trouble students you got to do sometimes to make it happen so if you would have been following my exact directions up into this point you probably end up with a similar situation and that's how I thought what these three wires okay so the usage for those three wires that I just described is going to change I wanted to leave that footage in because it's important to understand that you get when the prompters is over you can have some wires left over figure out what they are and do something with them the black wire that ground wire it's hooked into the chat this wiring harness ground and I need some ground wires in this place so I basically extend I've tapped into that and extended to ground wires over this location well we're going to deal with that just a little bit so that's me my ground so I didn't cut that off actually extended it the gray wire the gray wire is my coolant temperature was a sensor wire and it belongs in pin 41 of the blue connector I had taken that out and what was confusing was I take another some other Gregg wires outside it and they did make sense where it belonged in the blue connector piece only because after Brandon got back to me from lt1 swap comm he said oh it belongs on pin 41 well piece 41 on my chart says it's supposed to be a black wire that kind of threw me but so I've got the gray wire back into pin 41 that's right where it was so that solved so purple wire I've got it I do have it write it in here and it's plugged into pin blue 42 I've got that plugged in and it's still running through wire I'm going to change that as well I don't want to exit the harness over on the other end so I'm going to clip that purple wire off somewhere up in here and run it I need to I need it to include it in these wires that are exiting the harness at this point so I'm going to all three of those wires I'm going to change the direction those and we'll get more details at in just a minute I think what I might work on next I'm going to show you a diagram of how this whole thing is going to kind of look and the next thing we're going to do is going to start soldering on these pink wires all right so here's my wiring diagram this is like revision seven right but I'm pretty sure I got everything I want the way I'm going to wire it it looks a little bit confusing but I'm going to walk you through every piece of this in fact let's first of all take they're like a 30,000 foot view of this and let me show you that down across the bottom this is the main wiring harness this goes over toward the engine this goes to the PCM the computer you know it's the computer is going to run the engine through this basic main harness but there's wires that need to exit the harness to make this engine work I'm going to talk real briefly about this right now then we're gonna come back to it later these are just gauge wires and stuff like this extra wires you don't have to have these but I want to I'm going to have these we'll go through the detail of these later but I want you to kind of forget to this even on the diagram at this point I want to focus in on the fuses and the relay and if you remember in in the first video of this series I mentioned we're going to create an LS style harness with a four wire system and so this illustrates at the top those four wires will have one that goes out to the fuel pump we got to provide the fuel pump 12 volts to get it to turn on to feed the engine fuel we've got a pink wire coming from the ignition switch that's this pink wire we've got a red wire coming directly from the battery and we've got a purple wire that's going to come from the battery and go to our starter and that'll be the axe where the current going to the starter is going to pass through so there's the four wire system that we're creating but again we're going to do some additional wires as well outside of the harness the very first thing that anyone's doing this needs to understand is the fact that anytime you see an orange wire and in this diagram these red wires as well that is what I call battery hot there is it doesn't matter if you get a key of the switch to the car sitting out in the garage or in the in the basement there is positive voltage going on all these red wires all the time and the orange wires that's that's always on let's say and anytime you see a pink wire these these will have a positive 12 volts on them only when the key is in the ignition and you got to push from let's call you know when you put it in a position zero if you move it forward one knotch that's that's your ignition is on and now all the pink wires now have positive 12 volts as well so these pink are switched positive and the orange and the red is always hot okay so now let's zoom into this fuse block and these relays and let's talk in detail how this works unless we're going to start from the very top ultimately we have this red wires going to be hooked to the battery I've got 12 volts coming down through here it's going to hook into feed power to this first relay which is our main relay but it also is Bridge that comes straight down here to fuse number one the fuse is actually run up and down on the back side this is I'm showing you the back side of our fuse block but that fuse if it fuses good it's going to actually take that power straight across and it's going to actually this is also always hot going to this side of this fuse relay as well as always hot coming down and I've Junction this goes to the PCM on blue 20 and blue 57 as well as I need to feed the the ODB to connector has a always hot port on it so you need to make sure that we have that there so in all the orange is always hot so I think that kind of makes sense there's if you if I could get rid of all the other wires that would that would stand out that that's pretty simple one thing you also want to point out is that fuse number one is a standalone fuse because it's that always hot whereas you see fuse two three and four see the that yellow line across there that's actually a wire that goes and connects these fuses together so on this side of the fuse these three are all when they when they get hot all three we're hot across this side and then the fuse going up and down will basically present that hot then to the bottom side and power these these items so let's talk about our main relay it's got hot coming across here and if the relay is turned on then that power that positive will go across here and it will power this pink wire and the way that this turns on is there's a inside of relay and if you understand how a relay works I suggest go look up some YouTube videos on that and I would love to actually put together something like that about four or five years ago I didn't understand relays and finally figured out how they worked so anyway so this always hot right on this side if this relay is switched on I'll talk about that in a second then this power goes across comes down to now feed basically fuses three and two three and four the way that comes on is it's always grounded on this side that's this part of the switch it's grounded here through this black wire it's a ground coming from the engine and if you turn put the key in the ignition and turn it on you'll get 12 volts coming down this pink wire as soon as you have a 12 volts on this pink wire and a good ground on this wire this this circuit closes and now this electricity can come through here and feed the rest of this stuff so that's how the main real egg works by turning on the ignition switch you're now providing power to fuses 2 3 & 4 just to continue on how we better went and put our fuel pump relay right here in this area as well I've got this is a constant power coming to this side of the relay and if the if the circuit is closed it'll send that power out to the fuel pump and provide electricity for that fuel pump that turns the fuel pump on so how does it get switched on well we've got a constant ground here on the bottom side of the relay and then if this green wire gets a positive signal on it it completes this circuit circuit which completes the power circuit and that power circuit then sends that 12 volts to your fuel pump so how does that happen well this green wire is coming from the from the PCM when the when the computer tells the system we need that we need to turn on the fuel pump it sends a positive voltage down the green wire basically tripping this this relay completing the circuit and sending the signal that's how this relay work so we'll wire that up that way these pink wires are going to be brand new wires to the harness I'm going to show you how we're going to join a bunch of the original pink wires together to form these four pink wires we're actually going to do that next and what these pink wires are going to provide powers to if you're if you got the key in ignition and turn to position one is this first wire here on fuse number two that's going to put power to my coils in my PCM that will turn the PCM on and then we've got these two wires are going to go to the eight different injectors and then this fourth pink wire is your o2 sensors math check engine and those type of things so it looks look in more detail of how we're going to create these four pink wires from some of the existing pink wires that are in the harness okay so here's a look at page two of my little wiring diagram and I've got both the orange plan and as well as the plan for the four pink wires and I want to focus just on these pink wires for right now because we're going to we're look at them real quickly and they're actually going to go do it you know here's fuse two three and four these wear the pink fuses two three and four and here's those wires I'm going to use 16 gauge wire I'm going to be grouping basically groups of four and those are typically eighteen or twenty gauge that are in the chassis so this profused to that first wire there I'm going to group together my coil one one three five and seven wire coil two four six and eight and then the to PCM wires that go back to the PCM so those four wires are going to be merged we're gonna basically put a solder joint right here and these coil wires will go down the harness toward the engine and these PCM wires will actually go down the other direction in harness going back toward the PCM and then this wires then go up to my fuse block and then just real quickly I get out there's a here's wire three going to fuse three it's got inject forged injectors this fourth third wire is going to have these three injectors and then the fourth wire will have the 200 two sensors the map and the check engine light so let's let's take a look now and actually urging some of these wires and I'll show you where they exist in the harness since I'm we're going to have four separate splices for these pink wires I'm going to spray some out and put one of them here a second one here a third one here and probably fourth one here before they go up to where the fuse is [Music] you [Music] okay we got those done here's that first Union for fuse to fuse three a second one for fuse three here and here it's refused four so all my pink wires are now done I've got them run up to where the fuse block is going to be now we're going to work on the orange waters so for my orange battery wire I'm going to come off the fuse block with a 16 gauge wire and actually going to go towards the direction of the PCM I'll pick up those two wires coming off the PCM and solder those here as well as have one of those extend all the way up for the ODB to connector and again in the plan view here's here's that 16 gauge wire with those three connections to from the PCM and one for ODB to [Music] so this is the positive wire for the starter and if this is where it got clipped off earlier so it's just not long enough someone extended with this red wire okay so after finishing up that soldering I was able to just tighten this up with some harness tape and I get it clearly defined it's starting to look now like my diagram I've got the main harness with two different areas where wires will be exiting the harness this one's all about power and this one's all about gauges and indicators so I've got it all laid out so what I should be able to get done next time is the entire fuse block with the two relays and I'm going to get this little data connector and I'll explain more about that as we get that connected we'll see more about that next time [Music]

Channel: UCanDoIt2

Views: 114,855

Keywords: LS Wiring Harness, LS Swap Harness, LS, LSx, LS1, LS2, LS3, LS4, LS6, LS7, LM7, 4 Wire, Fuse Block, Starter Relay, Fuel Pump Relay, PCM, Gen 3, Gen 4, Harness, GMC, Chevy, Chevrolet, Camaro, Corvette, Swap, LT1Swap.com, Fuel Pump, Fuse, Stand alone, 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, LS Swap, C10, Wiring Harness

Id: SX0Hg5pE9HE

Length: 17min 46sec (1066 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 03 2017