Louis fixes board while losing mind, earns 1 star review.

today we're gonna start working on another MacBook here we have an a 1706 13 inch touch bar MacBook Pro let's see what's wrong with this MacBook we're gonna take the bottom cover off of it and the first thing we're gonna do is unplug the battery after we unplug the battery we're gonna see how many amps it takes using a USBC charger this MacBook appears to be taking 5 point 18 volts meaning it's not negotiating with the charger and it's also taking zero amps it seems like most of the screws are missing from this MacBook already lame I don't like mac books that are missing all their screws for MacBook who took your screws from you good trackball love my trackball is anybody out there gearing up for the holiday I was gearing up to be a good consumer I bought myself a new lens for the overhead camera had great reviews everybody said way better than the piece of crap kit lens that comes with the camera and then I viewed side by side you could not tell a damn difference in an ABX test as to which lens was which the Sony kit lens looked completely identical to the Sigma 30 millimeter prime lens that I got is genuinely no difference in detail close-up far away same thing maybe I'm just blind and have no taste that's always possible that I have no taste it's probably a big part of it so I returned the lenses I was trying to be a good consumer and spend all my money on Christmas on things at the B&H catalog to said would make me happy but the B and H catalogs things didn't make me happy where does happiness come from Paul happiness can come from a BH catalog definitely let's see if after I'm plugging everything from this MacBook if it's able to turn on we've plugged the macbook charger in and it's still stuck at 5 volts meaning it's the USBC chip is not negotiating with the USBC charger let's take a look and see if PP 3v3 underscore ax g3 hot is present oh look a solder blob let's take a look at this pp 3 v3 underscore g3 hot circuit and see what they did to it oh dear God oh my Wow much Paul what what no you said you don't do that anymore we said what you said you don't give me the ridiculously stupid things anymore holy crap no wonder they were so [ __ ] salty and douchey over email every effing time that somebody is a douchebag in email it's because they did some [ __ ] like this and it failed this is why I taking do-it-yourself repairs that failed is always a bad idea because they're always gonna be really salty that the stuff didn't work and they're gonna take that salt out on you it's kind of like when you hear about these situations where a man has a wreck tile dysfunction right before sex and he can't perform and he starts to take it out on the woman and he gets really angry and really mean it's kind of similar to what happens with certain do-it-yourself customers that failed at the repair when they bring it in they will start taking it out on you they will yell they will berate you they will be aggravated at every part of the transaction and I wish it wasn't the case because I kind of like teaching and showing people the stuff but it unfortunately is the case more often than not and it really sours the experience for both parties let's take a look at the schematic and board view see if you want to see what that person was such a douchebag in the emails take a look the attitude and personality matches the quality of his board repair the first thing that we need is for the Chargers 5 volts to go show up at our 6 902 let's see if we're even getting that so on our 6 902 over here right next to the diode I am to be expecting 5 volts let's see if that's there so when I plug you in and I measure over here looks like we're getting 5 volts at the and the input of the diode now let's look on the other side of the diode over here and see if that voltage is making its way through to the input of u6 903 it is 5 volts ok next up if this is hysterical because the email said something like you know I want you to send this back to us before more damages or harm is done to it's like [ __ ] you raped the board you raped this look at this that's rape sodomy absolute side of me that's all you and if you're watching you know who you are mofo you know who you are you know who you are and you know what you did first thing to do are these is this stuff on the side actually soldered properly are we even getting PP 3v3 underscore g3 ha we're getting nothing we get zero volts on pp 3 B 3 underscore g3 hot absolute nothing so now we're gonna unplug the charger and check for resistance to ground I wonder if there's a short circuit there is no short circuit next up we're gonna check this are these resistance though is this soldered right is this supposed to be there and that way we sent this person an estimate and they said it's clear that you don't have any interest in working on this send it back before you harm it anymore it's like we're we sent you an estimate you never replied to it and then we open it and this is what it looks like wow you have nerve you've got balls serious balls yeah this is totally and this is gonna be a big one star just like there's no need to be so much of a dick right out the gate but this is why this is why you should decline do-it-yourself failed repairs because they're always super salty always super salty like a normal person would just say oh sorry I didn't get the email yeah go ahead a douchebag will write a one-page letter about how they're gonna send you a a certified mail with their letterhead demanding it back because blah blah blah it's like let's see how these work when they're actually soldered they're joke it's like sitting above it cap has been soldered now let's just check the rest of this I mean I'm not going to trust the rest of this crap all right so this pad over here looks a little no bueno this may not be attaching to anything there may not be voltage going into it as can be seen here pin two on the chip is going to be the input voltage that allows it to work that's where voltage is going to be coming in from either the charger or the battery on pin two and that is the pin that seems to be kind of missing a little bit it's like that that pad is a little bit corroded and it's just kind of half there so I'm guessing is that we're probably getting some kind of bad connection between here and here so the chip is not getting the input voltage it needs to turn on and function so I would run a wire from here to there just in case it's not able to support I have to run a jumper here to out input but input is right next to output on the right and feedback on the left and feedback over here so I have thrown this there but without it touching that that or that that is some [ __ ] it's not gonna blob over it's just matter I need my wire to not get stripped what if I just run my wire up no I can't do that that's that's that's ghetto but then again this being so close to this is ghetto okay that doesn't show is fine we have about two microns of clearance that's more clearance than Apple gives the data line from the 40 volt backlight on the LCD connector anyway I'm sure it'll be just fine all right really look at this let's get a zoom in take mmm I miss being cranky because maybe I'm just being cranky perhaps I'm just being cranky like we should we zoom in this is output of the chip this is input of the chip this is feedback from output this is a probe point of feedback from output and this is input isn't the MacBook the flux ratio a little bit off I agree that's now we're taking zero we're taking six sixty to ninety milliamp but we still stuck at five volts but this is progress because before we were taking nothing and now we're at 19 volts in 800 milliamps so this may actually be working now all we had to do was undo the messed up stuff around the pp three before to circuit and say allow input to actually get to the chip input was not making its way to the chip it was clearly a pad that was missing not missing but just in bad shape and now it's the main power pin so that's important so we reattach that and as you can see that's as good as fan spin right there 19 volts 400 milliamps I mean do we really even have to plug this into a screen and see if it works I don't think we do turn on mofo Chuck we'll see about that I hope so look an Apple logo there's an Apple logo we could tell it was not communicating with the charger because we were getting 5 volts instead of 20 volts on the USBC amp meter the first rail that has to be present in order for this to work is PP 3 v 3 underscore G 3 Han when we looked around the U the pp underscore pp 3 B 3 underscore G 3 hot area it looked like somebody had just taken an axe to it we removed the work that we saw and we noticed that the input which is right next to output as well as being next to feedback great great yeah why but anyway this was this pad looked like it had seen better days and that's also the main input if it was anything other than main input voltage for the circuit I'd say fine but its main input so that needed to a jumper wire we ran a little jumper wire it didn't cause a store fire and with that it works as always I hope you learned something and from there on to the next MacBook

Channel: Louis Rossmann

Views: 1,161,480

Keywords: macbook, logic board repair

Id: fTvAUUUQqvM

Length: 13min 3sec (783 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 22 2018