Long Hair Haircut (HOW TO AVOID LONG HAIR TRAGEDIES) PART 2/3 #haircut #longhairstyle

okay if you have ever had long hair and thought about doing layers but maybe you had a bad experience or you're just terrified of doing them in general i'm gonna share some secrets that i've learned over 25 years of doing hair that are going to change everything for you and hopefully pull some of that fear out of you about doing layers because not having layers on long hair that's like the biggest mistake that i see and if you've watched part one of this three-part series we went over some of the common mistakes i see behind the chair when it comes to having longer hair so today in this video i'm going to break down an actual haircut and show you exactly how i avoid all of these mistakes how i avoid making hair look thin when it's long and we layer it even if you've got thin fine hair how to avoid having layers that are too short because that ends up looking a bit like a mullet right or how to avoid all of the concerns of choppiness that are happening in layers i promise you you can have long hair you can have layers and have none of those issues even if you have thin fine hair it's just how it's done so today i'm gonna go through a pretty technical video here but if you're not a stylist i'm gonna make this extremely simple so as you can see right now we've got my lovely wife here who has been kind enough to help me out on this she has no idea we're gonna do with her hair i'm probably gonna jack it up but what you're gonna notice in her hair is even though she has some layers in her hair her layers her layers we call them internal layers so layers in the back her internal layers are very long in comparison to her length i get asked all the time can i have long layers do long layers make sense and i'll tell you long layers are great for a tiny bit of movement at the very end but as you can see this shape you cannot get a lot of volume in areas that we want to create volume to accentuate things about our face shape because even though she has layers these layers are long meaning that that hair is long and the longer hair gets the harder it is to create volume in it because it becomes heavy no matter what texture you have it just that's how hair works so even though she's got some movement and some layers in it in my opinion she doesn't have enough layering to really reap the benefits of having layering she has enough layering to get a little bit of movement and a lot of the detriments of having layers potentially so what we're going to do right now is i'm going to get her hair wet and then we're going to walk through the actual process step by step what i do why i do it so that you don't have to worry about those mistakes if you're doing this on your hair at home i have an entire master class where i teach people how to do these kinds of things on their hair at home and make it really simple if you're already in my master class just so you're aware this particular haircut the recipe for this would be to follow the one length haircut then the front layer haircut and then complete with the layering the long layer haircut and you're going to achieve what i'm achieving right now if you are unaware of that master class i actually have a free webinar that you can check out too where i share mistakes common mistakes people make when they do their hair at home both cutting and coloring we talk all about it so if you want to jump on that you can actually there's a link in the description below where you can register to check out that webinar but just so you know you can use these techniques at home or at the salon to better explain what you're doing or what you want from your hair so the first thing that we're going to talk about is simply what length do you cut it so if you watched the first video in this series and if you haven't i'll link it at the end of this video so that you can make sure to check that out but if you watch the first video we talked a little bit about the length issues and the concern of having it too long for your particular texture and one of the keys to that is making sure that whatever length you have that the ends don't start looking so thin that one they stop growing because they're just kind of breaking off they're not strong enough to get more length any texture has a certain limit to the length that it will be able to achieve so when it starts to get kind of pc at the bottom you trim that up to the strongest point because that strong line is gonna create the foundation for the internal layers okay so now as you can see we've got this line straight okay this line is straight and it's as strong as it needs to be so this is a strong length that can support layering next thing we're going to move into is front layering so the question is how do you layer it in a way that it doesn't from the profile look like it's dragging back and that there isn't so much layering in the front that it's kind of disconnected from the sides you simply take a section from the top of your head to the back of your ear so we'll go straight to the back of the ear and we'll comb everything in front of that down and everything behind that gets combed out of the way this is a client or your length okay so let me spin you around so you can see this maybe better this right here okay this is your length this that's in front of the ear can be front layers as long as you don't take any of this stuff back here shorter you'll make sure that you don't cut it too far back so the easy way to do it is determine how short do you want the layers in the front and then know that the layers in the back stop right behind the ear so all you have to do is say okay i know that this can't go any shorter and this is where i want the layers in the front so i'm just going to draw a line from here to there that means that if you go into a salon and you don't want a ton of layers you've got two different ways to approach it one way is to say well i don't want these layers to be too short the other way is to say i don't want them to cut too far back now i'm actually going to use i want to show you another little trick here i'm actually going to use the razor on this because i get a lot of people saying well what about razors i hear that razors for instance can't be used on curly hair can't be used on thin hair to make your hair look frizzy they absolutely can the way a razor functions depending on how you use it is a razor will actually if i put this in your hair and i do this it'll actually strip your hair away into nothing and when it strips it away into nothing like that it can make those ends look a bit frizzy however if i use this more like an edge of a sheer or a knife blade if you will it still cuts a very strong edge to the hair and therefore won't create that same illusion so many times when i'm doing layers i'm going to start diana's layers let's say at the right at the chin for now right just for so you guys can see so i'll try the chin but if i just cut into this and use this like basically like a razor or like a knife edge that is not going to break up those ends into softness that's going to leave you a blunt end it just makes it easier for me to draw that line sometimes versus using shears it's not the tool that's the problem it's the way you implement the tool that can be the problem i will say on curly hair you have to be a little bit more careful curly hair can have a tendency to show those that phrase a little bit more but i still maintain that there are situations where you can get away with using a razor on curly hair it's just very much how it's used now i'm purposely not really worried about making these blend very well right now i kind of actually want this to be a little bit choppy because at the end i'm going to show you how to go in and take that choppiness out whether you're going to a stylist or whether you're doing this at home i want to show you the techniques that i use and how you texturize ends and not thin hair out so now that we have the front layers the question is what about the back layers how do we actually achieve that so that we don't thin those ends out length dictates the length of layers the longer your hair is the longer these layers back here need to be to balance if your hair is this long and i cut your layers this short they're not going to make any sense if you cut the layers that short you're going to get a little cap of volume here and that's what people tend to think i want more volume on top so i need to cut the layers shorter on top so that they're lighter you'll get a cap of volume but what will actually happen is you'll get a little bit of volume and then it'll collapse right where that bend ends and then this stuff doesn't have the ability to have that volume in the in the roots because it's so long and all of a sudden you have this little cap and then you have hair that kind of hangs there and it doesn't really create shape this is what we're talking about in this video so how do we determine what length is right for the layers well simply what i do is i go to a person's occipital bone now that occipital bone is the bone that's in the back your skull okay so it's that bone that's right here if i take a section here and i comb this hair up okay straight up and i grab the hair at the occipital bone okay so for diana's right here i grab this and i pull that hair up and i layer this way what i know is that this hair is essentially that's the length right as long as i don't cut anything in front of this shorter than this hair when they all fall down they're going to balance correctly after you do that then you might be able to take the layers a little bit shorter depending but that is always the place that i will start out at so first things first is i will take a section and i'll comb it up and i'll make sure that i start cutting those layers in top pulling them all straight up i don't do this pull them out but that's all straight up to ensure that i don't cut any of those layers too short or too much so i pull this up spin this around here a little bit so you can see i'll pull this up and what i see is there's my hair from the occipital bone so i know that i can get away with cutting all of this stuff off and it's not going to be too short so i'll go in now one thing that i do is when i cut i almost never blunt cut things i always point cut into it and the reason i do that is because it leaves the ends strong but it also breaks them up this is going to help them blend a little bit more now as i said at the very end of this we're going to go through how i break those up even more to blend them even better but i always start here because it gives me a good foundation to work with so i'll go in i'll take that length off and then i'll just cut all of the top and i'll use that as my guide i'll pull all of it up the same way and ultimately make sure that none of it goes shorter than that piece that i just cut layering in the front and layering in the back how do you know how long to have the layers in the front you always want the layer in the front to be as short as the layers in the back or shorter if you have it longer these layers back here will push hair forward it will make it look like you have a bob and then hair that hangs below the bob now that i've got the layers in the back shorter now the last thing that i will do is make sure that there is a little bit of connection from the layers in the this top layer to the layer to the length the way i do that and making sure at the same time that i don't over layer it is what you'll see a lot of times is people will comb this down and they'll take a section and they'll pull it straight out from the head like this and then they'll cut all that layer all this stuff off and layer all that that is what tends to make hair look thin that's a fine technique on shorter hair but as the hair gets longer you're gonna find that it's gonna make those ends look very thin you're adding a lot of layers in this section right here which is from the recession to the occipital bone all of this stuff down here you basically want that one length so we don't want to pull that out and layer it that's why i pull everything up and layer it to ensure that i don't over layer this now one thing that i can do if i want that to blend a little bit better is i can go in and i can take at the very end after i've layered the top and i can take some of this stuff on the sides pull it out diagonally from the head so it's not up and it's not out it's diagonal and when i do this sometimes there'll be a little corner in here where the hair will look like this and i can take that little bit of corner out and that will blend it into the bottom length so it'll give it a little bit more layering right so it's like this stuff i can take some of that stuff out and it'll give it a little bit more layering blend it a little bit more but it'll still keep it from looking too thin at the ends okay we got our hair dry okay well you guys don't know behind the scenes i'm drying her hair she starts watching something on her phone and it makes her emotional she starts crying and i go babe you can't be crying when i'm showing people what i did to your hair this is so horrible so yeah i promise you her crying has nothing to do with what happened here okay this if she looks sad because she's watching all the things online whatever now i want to go through and just show you how i actually texturize hair to ensure that we get a nice movement and blend everything but we don't end with thin hair so i use texturizing shears to texturize hair okay and what that means is that the actual blade is smaller than the hole next to the blade and what that does is it means that it's cutting out less hair whereas if you look at a conventional thinning shear you'll notice that the blade and the hole are the exact same side effectively it takes out half of the hair so these are a lot more aggressive and how much hair they remove which is a lot harder to control how much i'm taking out then what i do is i'll go in and i follow the exact same sectioning pattern that i did for the haircut i'll pull the hair up and i look at the very ends and if those ends look too strong or too chunky or too thick i go in and i break those ends up a little bit just to break up the line here's what i'm not doing i'm not going down here and thinning out a bunch of hair what happens with people is even though your layers are so long the ends are so thin that they're those layers are acting as though they're a lot shorter so now we've done texturize all those layers now if you look right here you'll see that looks a little bit choppy part of that is her color part of that is because i cut it choppy so what i'll do there is i'm going to go through and essentially do the same thing i've been doing which is just texturizing those ends a little bit so i'll take just that section and i'll just you can see how blunt that looks but if i go in and just break up some of that a bit lighten it up it's going to blend a lot more and you're not going to see it quite as blunt and choppy looking so usually just texturizing those ends a little bit will help to take out some of that bluntness and give it a much nicer blend and still give you you can see how much better that blends now and it'll still give you all of that movement but now you can see if i go through and i comb her hair out you can see that even though she's got a lot of layers you're not seeing these layers in her hair they all blend in and it'll create the illusion almost that it's one length aside from the layers in the front you can't hide those so just following those simple steps i know that i'm not going to lay her hair too short i'm not going to make it look too thin at the ends i'm not going to have too many layers in the front and i'm going to have layers that blend now what i'll do is i'll go through and style her hair so that you can actually see what this shape actually creates and then in the next video which i will be linking at the end of this video will actually walk you through the styling process now you can see the difference from when we started to now by creating the layers in the right areas and leaving them long enough we've created shape in the correct area we created volume in the areas that accentuate cheek structure that accentuates bone structure that lift the face and the eye up all of these things are very important we're giving the hair a lot of movement a lot of texture and we're more importantly avoiding the triangular shape that tends to happen when you're dealing with long hair especially if it's not layered so what i need you to do right now is go watch one of these two videos either part one of this series so you can understand all of the mistakes that people make and how to avoid them or this video right here so you go do that now and we will see you in the next video

Channel: Justin Hickox

Views: 356,129

Rating: 4.9091911 out of 5

Keywords: long hair haircut, long hair haircut diy, long hair haircut ideas, long hair haircut layers, long hair haircut styles, long hair haircut transformation, long hair haircut tutorial, long hair, long hair haircuts for women, long hair hairstyles, long hair tutorial, diy layered haircut for long hair, diy women's haircut long hair, very long hair, hair, hair transformation, hair tutorial, bob haircut, justin hickox cut your own hair, mens hair, justin hickox

Id: 7SvdPrDL2KU

Length: 15min 54sec (954 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 10 2020