HI I'M RICK STEVES BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE. THIS TIME, WE RETURN
TO PORTUGAL. STICK AROUND -- WITH A LITTLE
LUCK, WE'LL CATCH ONE OF THESE! STICK AROUND -- WITH A LITTLE
LUCK, WE'LL CATCH ONE OF THESE! OF HISTORY AND CULTURE CHISELED INTO
ITS GRAND BUILDINGS AND GROUND
BETWEEN ITS SALTY COBBLES. IT WAS ONCE A GLOBAL SUPERPOWER,
WITH A VAST EMPIRE STRETCHING FROM AFRICA
TO BRAZIL, ALL THE WAY TO THE FAR EAST. THEN IT WAS THE POOREST NATION
IN WESTERN EUROPE. TODAY IT'S THRIVING ONCE AGAIN AS AN EQUAL PARTNER
IN THE EUROPEAN UNION. <font color="#00FFFF"> IN LISBON, WE'LL DELVE
INTO A COLORFUL CAPITAL</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> RICH IN HISTORY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WE'LL SING WITH LOCALS
BURIED DEEP IN THE OLD TOWN,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SIP COFFEE ON STOOLS
ONCE WARMED</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BY GREAT PORTUGUESE POETS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> COVET SLINKY
ART NOUVEAU JEWELRY</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND MARVEL
AT THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF THE "AGE OF DISCOVERY."</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THEN, WE HEAD SOUTH
FOR THE "LANDS END" OF EUROPE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHERE WE'LL FISH FOR OCTOPI AND
SAVOR THE FRESHEST OF SEAFOOD</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> ON THE SOUTH COAST
OF MY TRAVEL DREAMS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> PORTUGAL AND SPAIN
FILL THE IBERIAN PENINSULA,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SHARING THE OLDEST BORDER
IN EUROPE.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FROM LISBON, WE TRAVEL SOUTH
TO THE ALGARVE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> CHECKING OUT THE RESORT CITY
OF LAGOS AND CAPE SAGRES,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BEFORE SETTLING INTO
THE FISHING VILLAGE OF SALEMA.</font> WE'RE STARTING IN LISBON,
A CITY OF ABOUT 600,000 ON THE YAWNING MOUTH
OF THE TEJO RIVER. WITH ITS HUGE PORT WELCOMING
SHIPS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE, THIS CITY OF MAGELLAN
AND VASCO da GAMA STILL FEELS LIKE EUROPE'S
GATEWAY TO THE WORLD. <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON'S MILE-AND-A-HALF-LONG
SUSPENSION BRIDGE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> ONE OF THE LONGEST
IN THE WORLD, WAS BUILT IN 1966</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BY THE SAME COMPANY THAT BUILT
ITS COUSIN IN SAN FRANCISCO.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> A TOWERING STATUE OF CHRIST
OVERLOOKS LISBON</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FROM ACROSS THE TEJO RIVER,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> STRETCHING HIS ARMS WIDE
TO SYMBOLICALLY BLESS THE CITY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON IS A RAMSHACKLE BUT
CHARMING MIX OF NOW AND THEN.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OLD TROLLEYS CLATTER
UP AND DOWN ITS HILLS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BIRD-STAINED STATUES
MARK GRAND SQUARES,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> TAXIS RATTLE AND SCREECH
AROUND COBBLED CORNERS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND WELL-WORN PEOPLE HANG OUT
IN ART NOUVEAU CAFES.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SURVEY THE CITY'S CHARM
ON A TROLLEY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SLEEK NEW ONES GLIDE, WHILE
VINTAGE MODELS FROM THE 1920s</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SHAKE AND SHIVER
THROUGH THE OLD TOWN.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> CLIMBING STEEP HILLS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND SOMEHOW WEAVING WITHIN
INCHES OF PARKED CARS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THEY OFFER SIGHTSEERS
CHEAP AND BREEZY VIEWS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF THIS GREAT CITY.</font> LISBON'S HISTORY GOES ALL
THE WAY BACK TO ROMAN TIMES, BUT THE CITY'S GLORY DAYS WERE
THE 15th AND 16th CENTURY, WHICH VASCO da GAMA AND THE
GANG SAILED AROUND AFRICA, OPENING UP NEW TRADE ROUTES
TO INDIA AND MAKING THIS CITY
ONE OF EUROPE'S WEALTHIEST. <font color="#00FFFF"> PORTUGAL'S AGE OF DISCOVERY</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FUELED AN ECONOMIC AND CULTURAL
BOOM TIME IN THE 1500s.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IN THE EARLY 1700s, THE GOLD
AND DIAMONDS OF BRAZIL,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> ONE OF PORTUGAL'S COLONIES,
MADE LISBON EVEN WEALTHIER.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE SCARRED PILLARS
OF THE REBUILT</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> CHURCH OF SAN DOMINGOS
EVOKE THE WORST CALAMITY</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IN PORTUGUESE HISTORY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> ON ALL SAINTS' DAY IN 1755,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHILE MOST OF THE POPULATION
WAS IN CHURCH,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> A TREMENDOUS EARTHQUAKE
STRUCK THE CITY.</font> THEY SAY CANDLES QUIVERED
AS FAR AWAY AS IRELAND. THIRTY THOUSAND DIED
AS TWO-THIRDS OF LISBON WAS LEVELED. IT WAS THREE DISASTERS IN THE SPACE
OF A FEW HORRIBLE MINUTES. AFTER THE QUAKE, FIRES RAGED
THROUGHOUT THE CITY. THEN, A MASSIVE TIDAL WAVE
SLAMMED INTO THE HARBOR FRONT. <font color="#00FFFF"> THE CITY WAS RECONSTRUCTED
UNDER THE ENERGETIC</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND EVENTUALLY DICTATORIAL
LEADERSHIP</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF ITS PRIME MINISTER,
THE MARQUES de POMBAL.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE NEW LISBON WAS BUILT
ON A PROGRESSIVE GRID PLAN,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WITH BROAD BOULEVARDS
AND SQUARE SQUARES.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND TODAY, THE CITY,
WITH ITS POMBALINE SQUARES</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> NEWLY BUFFED
AND A FINANCIAL BOOST</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FROM ITS MEMBERSHIP
IN THE EUROPEAN UNION,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SEEMS BETTER ORGANIZED,
CLEANER, MORE PROSPEROUS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND PEOPLE FRIENDLY THAN EVER.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND, WITH SOME OF EUROPE'S
LOWEST PRICES,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON IS EASY ON THE BUDGET.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON'S CASTLE OF ST. GEORGE
WAS FIRST BUILT</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BY THE MUSLIM MOORS, WHO SWEPT
IN FROM NORTH AFRICA</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND CONQUERED THIS REGION
IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AFTER PORTUGAL'S KING AFONSO
HENRIQUES BEAT THE MOORS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IN THE 12th CENTURY, THE CASTLE
BECAME A ROYAL PALACE.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LATER, THE KING MOVED
AND THE CASTLE FELL INTO RUINS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHILE TODAY THE CASTLE
IS JUST A BARREN SHELL,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT'S SURROUNDED BY A PEACEFUL
AND INVITING PARK</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WITH THE CITY'S BEST VIEWPOINT.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON'S SALTY SAILORS'
QUARTER, THE ALFAMA,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> TUMBLES FROM THE CASTLE
TO THE RIVER.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT DATES BACK OVER A THOUSAND
YEARS, TO MOORISH TIMES.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE TANGLED STREET PLAN HERE
IS ONE OF THE FEW ASPECTS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF LISBON TO SURVIVE
THE GREAT QUAKE OF 1755,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> HELPING MAKE THE ALFAMA
A COBBLED PLAYGROUND</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF OLD WORLD COLOR.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE ALFAMA'S URBAN JUNGLE ROADS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> ARE SQUEEZED INTO A MAZE
OF CONFUSING ALLEYS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BENT HOUSES COMFORT EACH OTHER
IN THEIR ROMANTIC SHABBINESS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE AIR DRIPS WITH LAUNDRY</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND THE SMELL OF CLAMS
AND RAW FISH.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WITH THE HELP OF MY FRIEND
AND FELLOW TOUR GUIDE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> CLAUDIA da COSTA,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> A WANDER THROUGH THE ALFAMA
TAKES ON SOME MEANING.</font> I JUST LOVE THIS PLACE;
I JUST LOVE THIS PLACE. YOU SEE, EVERYBODY'S HERE. EVERYBODY KNOWS EACH OTHER. YOU SEE? [ Rick chuckling ] YOU CAN LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN
BECAUSE THEY KNOW EACH OTHER. HERE YOU DON'T HAVE POLICE
BECAUSE THEY PROTECT EACH OTHER. IT'S LIKE A BIG FAMILY. IT'S VERY NICE, VERY NICE. HERE YOU HAVE
ST. ANTHONY. YEAH. ST. ANTHONY IS THE
LOCAL PATRON SAINT AND FISHERMEN'S PATRON SAINT
BECAUSE FISHERMEN LIVE HERE. AND THEN YOU HAVE PLASTIC
BAGS FILLED WITH WATER, BECAUSE WE SAY THESE
KEEP AWAY THE FLIES. DOES IT WORK? [ speaking Portuguese ] IT WORKS. YEAH? NO FLIES. [ laughing ] <font color="#00FFFF"> Obrigado.</font> IN ALFAMA,
TRADITIONS ARE STRONG. IF A WOMAN
LOSE HER HUSBAND, SHE WILL WEAR BLACK FOR
THE REST OF HER LIFE. AND IF SOME REASON SHE
WANTS TO STOP WEARING IT, I THINK HER NEIGHBORHOOD
WILL QUESTION HER ABOUT HER RESPECT AND LOVE
ABOUT HER HUSBAND OR SON, BECAUSE IT'S LIKE THIS. TRADITIONS ARE VERY,
VERY STRONG IN ALFAMA. [ singing in Portuguese ] <font color="#00FFFF"> AND TRADITIONS SURVIVE IN THE
PASSIONATE MUSIC CALLED FADO.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WE'RE HAVING DINNER
IN A RESTAURANT</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHICH SERENADES DINERS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WITH THE FOLK MUSIC
OF LISBON'S BACK STREETS.</font> [ singing in Portuguese ] <font color="#00FFFF"> THIS IS AN EXPERIENCE
I RECOMMEND IN MY GUIDEBOOKS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> RUSTIC PORTUGUESE CUISINE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SEASONED WITH THIS
UNFORGETTABLE MUSIC.</font> [ singing continues ] [ applause ] <font color="#00FFFF"> THE MARQUES de POMBAL'S
REBUILT CENTER OF LISBON,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> CALLED THE BAIXA, IS TODAY
A FLAT, INVITING SHOPPING AREA</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF GRID-PATTERNED STREETS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE MAIN BOULEVARD IS
PEDESTRIANS-ONLY RUA AUGUSTA.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE UNIFORM POST-EARTHQUAKE
OR POMBALINE ARCHITECTURE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IS UTILITARIAN.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT'S DECORATED ONLY
WITH WROUGHT IRON AND TILES.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IN THE YEARS
AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON DID A LOT OF BUILDING
WITHOUT A LOT OF MONEY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE SANTA JUSTA ELEVATOR
WAS BUILT</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> TO CONNECT THE LOWER TOWN
WITH THE HIGH TOWN.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT WAS CONSTRUCTED IN 1902,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> A FEW YEARS
AFTER ITS INSPIRATION:</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE EIFFEL TOWER.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE ROSSIO TRAIN STATION BRINGS
IN WORKERS FROM THE SUBURBS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND A FUNICULAR WORKS HARD
ALL DAY, HAULING PEOPLE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FROM THE LOWER TOWN TO THE
CHARACTERISTIC BAIRRO ALTO,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OR HIGH TOWN.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHILE IN THE HIGH TOWN,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WE'RE VISITING
THE PORT WINE INSTITUTE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHERE YOU CAN SAMPLE PORTUGAL'S
MOST FAMOUS BEVERAGE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IN CLUBBY COMFORT.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHILE HERE, YOU CAN SELECT FROM
A MENU OF 300 DIFFERENT PORTS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> MOST AVAILABLE BY THE GLASS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> PORT DIFFERS FROM WINE IN THAT
ITS FERMENTATION PROCESS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IS CUT SHORT BY THE ADDITION
OF PURE ALCOHOL,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHICH FORTIFIES IT.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> EVEN SO, THERE'S A GREAT
DIVERSITY AMONG PORTS.</font> WHAT SHOULD
WE TRY? GIVE US TWO
GLASSES, PLEASE. TWO GLASSES,
OKAY. I RECOMMEND ONE TAWNY
TEN YEARS OLD. IT'S EXCELLENT WINE. IT'S VERY GOOD WINE. TAWNY TEN YEAR. LET'S HAVE TWO
GLASSES OF THAT. <font color="#00FFFF"> THE TEN-YEAR TAWNY IS A BLEND
OF PORTS OF VARIOUS AGES</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AVERAGING TEN YEARS OLD.</font> WHAT DO YOU
EAT WITH THIS? WITH ICE CREAM
IT'S EXCELLENT. WITH ICE CREAM? YES, WITH ICE CREAM
OR WITH PASTRIES IT'S VERY,
VERY SWEET. I CAN IMAGINE IT
WITH ICE CREAM. YEAH. <font color="#00FFFF"> HMM, THIS ONE LOOKS LIKE
IT WOULD MATCH UP WELL</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WITH A COMPLEX ROCKY ROAD,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OR PERHAPS A PRALINES
AND CREAM.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> JUST DOWN THE STREET,
THE CHURCH OF SAN ROQUE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WAS BUILT BY THE JESUITS
IN THE 16th CENTURY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE ACOUSTICS HERE
ARE TOP-NOTCH,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IMPORTANT IN A JESUIT CHURCH</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHERE THE EMPHASIS
IS ON THE SERMON.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE CEILING, WHILE FLAT
AND MADE OF WOOD, IS PAINTED</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> TO GIVE THE ILLUSION
OF MARBLE ARCHES AND DOMES.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE CHAPEL
OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IS ONE OF THE MOST COSTLY
CHAPELS PER SQUARE INCH</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> EVER CONSTRUCTED.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT LOOKS LIKE IT CAME
RIGHT OUT OF THE VATICAN,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BECAUSE IT DID.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> MADE IN ROME OUT OF THE MOST
PRECIOUS MATERIALS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT WAS USED
FOR ONE PAPAL MASS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THEN IT WAS DISASSEMBLED
AND SHIPPED HERE TO LISBON.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHILE THESE LOOK
LIKE PAINTINGS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THEY'RE ACTUALLY
INTRICATE MOSAICS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> A VATICAN SPECIALTY, MOSAICS
WERE USED TO AVOID DAMAGE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FROM CANDLE SMOKE THAT WOULD
DARKEN PAINTINGS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> COFFEEHOUSE JUNKIES HAVE
A NEAR-RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> NEARBY AT THE GRAND OLD
A BRASILEIRA CAFE.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THIS CAFE RETAINS
SOME OF THE AMBIANCE IT HAD</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BACK IN THE 1920s AND '30s,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHEN IT WAS THE LITERARY
AND CREATIVE SOUL OF LISBON.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT WAS THE HANGOUT
OF AVANT-GARDE POETS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WRITERS AND PAINTERS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND IT'S STILL A GOOD PLACE
FOR A CUP OF COFFEE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND A pastel de Nata.</font> THE BELOVED POET PESSOA
STILL SITS OUTSIDE. LISBON, THE CAPITAL OF THE
PORTUGUESE-SPEAKING WORLD, IS A MELTING POT
OF ITS ONCE-VAST EMPIRE. IMMIGRANTS FROM FORMER COLONIES
SUCH AS MOZAMBIQUE AND ANGOLA HAVE ADDED DIVERSITY AND FLAVOR
TO THE CITY, MAKING IT AS LIKELY YOU'LL HEAR
AFRICAN MUSIC THESE DAYS AS PORTUGUESE FADO. THIS IS A GREAT TAXI TOWN. CABBIES STICK TO THEIR METERS
AND ARE GENERALLY GOOD-HUMORED. RIDES ARE CHEAP
AND DECALS ON THE WINDOW CLEARLY SPELL OUT
ALL CHARGES IN ENGLISH. ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE
SHARING COSTS, LISBON'S CABS
ARE AN ECONOMIC TIME-SAVER. WE'RE HEADING
FOR LISBON'S TOP MUSEUM. THE GULBENKIAN MUSEUM OFFERS ONE OF THE MOST ENJOYABLE
MUSEUM EXPERIENCES IN ALL OF EUROPE. THE COOL, UNCROWDED,
GORGEOUSLY LIT MUSEUM DISPLAYS ONLY A FEW EXQUISITE
WORKS FROM EACH EPOCH. VISITORS STROLL
ACROSS THE GLOBE THROUGH FIVE MILLENNIA
OF HUMAN HISTORY, APPRECIATING OUR ANCESTORS BY SEEING OBJECTS
THEY CONSIDERED BEAUTIFUL. FIVE THOUSAND YEARS AGO,
EGYPTIAN CIVILIZATION BROUGHT AN UNPRECEDENTED
REFINEMENT TO HUMANKIND. THIS FELINE-TOPPED COFFIN HELD
THE MUMMIFIED REMAINS OF A CAT. MESOPOTAMIAN RELIEFS REMIND US THAT IT WAS IN THE FERTILE
CRESCENT, PRESENT-DAY IRAQ, THAT WRITING WAS INVENTED. CENTURIES LATER,
BUT STILL LONG BEFORE CHRIST, THE GREEKS TOOK CIVILIZATION
TO NEW HEIGHTS. THIS VASE,
DECORATED WITH SCENES OF HALF-HUMAN SATYRS
CHASING HUMAN WOMEN, REMINDS US OF THE RATIONAL
GREEKS' STRUGGLE TO OVERCOME THEIR BARBARIAN,
ANIMAL-LIKE URGES. THE COLLECTION
HELPS BRING TO LIFE THE MYSTERIOUS WORLD
OF THE MOORS, WHO RULED THIS PART OF EUROPE
THROUGH THE MIDDLE AGES. THEY CAME FROM AN ARABIC
AND MUSLIM REALM WHERE ORNATELY-PATTERNED TILES
AND FINE GLASS LAMPS DECORATED MOSQUES AND PALACES. IN THE 1500s, PORTUGUESE SAILORS
BEGAN TRADING WITH CHINA. AMONG THE MANY TREASURES
THEY BROUGHT HOME WERE BLUE AND WHITE MING
CERAMICS, WHICH BECAME ALL THE RAGE,
INSPIRING THE DELFTWARE OF HOLLAND AND PORTUGAL'S
azulejo TILES. THE CREATIVITY
OF MEDIEVAL EUROPE WAS DEVOTED MOSTLY
TO ITS CHRISTIAN FAITH. FOLD-UP ALTARPIECES
EIGHT INCHES TALL HELPED TRAVELERS WORSHIP. EARLY BIBLES AND RELIGIOUS
BOOKS WERE RICHLY DECORATED. ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS
LIKE THESE CAME WITH SOME OF EUROPE'S
FINEST PRE-RENAISSANCE ART. LATER, RENAISSANCE
AND BAROQUE PAINTERS CELEBRATED GOD'S CREATION IN
THE FACES OF ORDINARY PEOPLE, WHETHER GHIRLANDAIO'S
FRESH-FACED YOUNG MAIDEN, FRANS HALS'
WRINKLED OLD WOMAN, OR REMBRANDT'S
PORTRAIT OF AN OLD MAN, WHOSE CREASE-LINED HANDS
TELL THE STORY OF HIS LIFE. GULBENKIAN'S COLLECTION
OF FURNITURE, ONCE ACTUALLY OWNED
BY FRENCH KINGS, IS A ROYAL HOME SHOW. IT SHOWS OFF
THE LOUIS THE 14th STYLE, ORNATE WITH CURVED LEGS
AND ANIMAL-CLAWED FEET, AND THE LOUIS THE 16th STYLE, STRAIGHT LEGS, TAPERED
AND MORE MODERN. FOLLOW THE PROGRESSION
OF EUROPE'S INCREASINGLY REFINED STYLES,
FROM STORMY ROMANTICISM, LIKE THIS TUMULTUOUS
SHIPWRECK BY TURNER, TO PRE-RAPHAELITE DREAMSCAPES,
LIKE THIS MIRROR OF VENUS, TO THE GLINTING, SHIMMERING
IMPRESSIONISM OF MONET, RENOIR AND THE ENGLISHMAN
JOHN SINGER SARGENT. AND FINISH YOUR WALK THROUGH GULBENKIAN'S GARDEN
OF MAN-MADE BEAUTY WITH THE NUBILE ART NOUVEAU
GLASSWORK AND JEWELRY OF THE FRENCH DESIGNER
RENE LALIQUE. A TROLLEY TAKES US
ALONG THE WATERFRONT FROM DOWNTOWN LISBON
TO THE BELEM DISTRICT, A STATELY PINCUSHION
OF IMPORTANT SIGHTS, FROM THE DAYS WHEN PORTUGAL
WAS EUROPE'S RICHEST POWER. BELEM SURVIVED
THE BIG EARTHQUAKE. BECAUSE OF THAT, PORTUGAL'S
SUDDENLY SAFETY-CONSCIOUS AND RATTLED ROYALTY
CHOSE TO LIVE OUT HERE, UNDER WOODEN RATHER THAN
STONE BUILDINGS. TO THIS DAY, PORTUGAL'S ROYAL PALACE
STANDS BEHIND THESE WALLS. THE ADJACENT ROYAL STABLES NOW HOUSE ONE OF EUROPE'S
TOP COACH MUSEUMS. IN 1905, THE LAST
QUEEN OF PORTUGAL REALIZED THAT CARS WOULD SOON MAKE
HORSE-DRAWN CARRIAGES OBSOLETE. SHE DECIDED TO PRESERVE
HER FINE COLLECTION OF ROYAL COACHES HERE. THE MUSEUM SHOWS
70 DAZZLING CARRIAGES IN THE QUEEN'S ELEGANT,
OLD RIDING ROOM. THE OLDEST IS THE CRUDE
AND SIMPLE COACH USED BY KING PHILLIP THE SECOND TO SHUTTLE BETWEEN MADRID
AND LISBON IN AROUND 1600. THIS COACH
HAD NO DRIVER'S SEAT. ITS DRIVERS WOULD ACTUALLY
RIDE THE HORSES. WITH BAD ROADS AND CRUDE
LEATHER-STRAP SUSPENSION, THE RIDE WAS SLOW AND ROUGH. YOU'LL HAVE TO
TRUST ME ON THIS, BUT IF YOU LIFT UP THE CUSHION,
YOU'LL FIND A POTTY HOLE, ALSO HANDY FOR ROAD SICKNESS. TRACING THE EVOLUTION
OF COACHES THROUGH THE NEXT CENTURY, YOU'LL NOTICE THE DECORATION
EVOLVES ALONG WITH THE COMFORT. THE PORTUGUESE COAT OF ARMS INDICATES THIS CARRIAGE
WAS PART OF THE ROYAL FLEET. THE ORNAMENTATION INCLUDES
A FOLK FESTIVAL OF EXOTIC FACES FROM PORTUGAL'S
DISTANT COLONIES. THE LUMBERING "OCEAN COACH"
IS AS ORNATE AS IT IS LONG. AT THE STERN, GOLD FIGURES, SYMBOLIZING THE ATLANTIC AND
INDIAN OCEANS HOLDING HANDS, REMINDED ALL OF PORTUGAL'S
MASTERY OF THE SEA. JUST DOWN THE STREET
IS THE JERONOMOUS MONASTERY, WITH LISBON'S MOST
IMPRESSIVE CHURCH. KING MANUEL, WHO RULED
AROUND THE YEAR 1500, BUILT THIS GIANT CHURCH
AND MONASTERY AS A THANKS
FOR OVERSEAS DISCOVERIES. MANUEL FINANCED
THE CONSTRUCTION IN PART WITH PEPPER MONEY, A 5% TAX LEVIED ON SPICES
BROUGHT BACK FROM INDIA. HE BUILT ALL THIS ON THE SITE
OF A HUMBLE SAILORS' CHAPEL, WHERE SEAFARERS WOULD PRAY BEFORE EMBARKING
ON THEIR FRIGHTENING VOYAGES. THE STYLE OF MANUEL'S CHURCH? MANUELINE. THIS UNIQUELY PORTUGUESE STYLE REFLECTS THE WEALTH
OF THE TIMES AND THE MANY
CULTURAL INFLUENCES OF THE AGE OF DISCOVERY. MANUELINE DECORATION IS ORNATE,
FEATURING MOTIFS FROM THE SEA. THIS STYLE IS ON THE CUSP
OF THE RENAISSANCE. UNLIKE EARLIER
MEDIEVAL CHURCHES, THE INTERIOR IS MORE OPEN. PALM TREE-LIKE COLUMNS ARE
SLENDER RATHER THAN MASSIVE, AND THE SIDE AISLES
ARE AS LOFTY AS THE NAVE. THE INTERIOR IS DECORATED WITH
MORE AGE-OF-DISCOVERY MOTIFS. MONSTERS EVOKE THE MYSTERY
OF UNDISCOVERED LANDS. A TOTEM POLE OF FACES CELEBRATES PORTUGUESE
CONQUESTS. ARTICHOKES, EATEN FOR VITAMIN C
TO FIGHT SCURVY, REMIND OF HARDSHIPS
SAILORS FACED AT SEA. AND THE CEILING,
A BOY SCOUT HANDBOOK OF KNOTS, TRUMPETS PORTUGAL'S
TECHNICAL EXPERTISE. THIS IS VASCO da GAMA'S TOMB. IN 1497, HE SPENT AN EVENING
PRAYING HERE FOR A SAFE VOYAGE. THE NEXT MORNING HE SET SAIL
WITH FOUR SHIPS, CARAVELS LIKE THIS,
AND 150 MEN. HIS MISSION? TO FIND A DIRECT TRADE ROUTE
TO THE VAST WEALTH OF ASIA. WHEN HE SUCCEEDED,
SAILING AROUND AFRICA, SEA TRADE ECLIPSED
OVERLAND TRADE WITH ASIA AND ALMOST IMMEDIATELY,
ITALY'S TRADE PLUMMETED, PORTUGAL'S TRADE SKYROCKETED, AND THE SEAFARING NATIONS
ALONG EUROPE'S ATLANTIC COAST -- ENGLAND, HOLLAND,
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL -- EMERGED AS ECONOMIC POWERHOUSES. WITH ALL THAT PROSPERITY
CAME MONEY FOR ART. THESE LACY MANUELINE CLOISTERS,
MY FAVORITE IN ALL OF EUROPE, ARE THE ARCHITECTURAL HIGHLIGHT
OF BELEM. THE SHEER SIZE
OF THIS RELIGIOUS COMPLEX IS A TESTAMENT TO THE RELIGIOUS
MOTIVATION THAT, ALONG WITH MONEY, PROPELLED
THE AGE OF DISCOVERY. THE BELEM TOWER, WITH MORE
TEXTBOOK MANUELINE DECOR, PROTECTED LISBON'S HARBOR. TODAY IT SYMBOLIZES THE VOYAGES
THAT MADE PORTUGAL POWERFUL. THIS WAS THE LAST SIGHT
SAILORS SAW AS THEY LEFT AND THE FIRST
WHEN THEY RETURNED, BEARING GOLD AND SPICES. THE GIANT MONUMENT
TO THE DISCOVERIES, BUILT IN 1960 ON THE 500th ANNIVERSARY
OF HENRY THE NAVIGATOR'S DEATH, SHOWS THAT EXPLORING THE WORLD
WAS A TEAM EFFORT. STANDING ON THE PROW OF A SHIP ARE ROYALTY, POETS
AND PAINTERS, KNIGHTS WHO CHRISTIANIZED
FOREIGN LANDS WITH THE SWORD, GREAT EXPLORERS SUCH AS
VASCO da GAMA, AND FINALLY, THE MAN WHO SPEARHEADED
THE PUSH FOR EXPLORATION, PRINCE HENRY THE NAVIGATOR, HOLDING THE SHIP
THAT MADE IT POSSIBLE: A CARAVEL. TO MIX IN A LITTLE FUN
IN THE SUN WITH OUR HISTORY, WE'RE DRIVING THREE HOURS SOUTH TO THE RUGGED SOUTHWESTERN TIP
OF PORTUGAL, CAPE SAGRES. THIS WAS AS CLOSE
AS YOU COULD GET TO THE EDGE OF OUR FLAT EARTH
IN THE DAYS BEFORE COLUMBUS. A LIGHTHOUSE MARKS
WHAT WAS REFERRED TO EVEN IN ANCIENT TIMES
AS "THE END OF THE WORLD." TODAY, SALT-OF-THE-EARTH
MERCHANTS SELL SEAWORTHY SWEATERS, FISHERMEN CAST THEIR LINES
OFF THE DIZZYING CLIFFS AND TOURISTS GO FOR THAT
END-OF-EUROPE PHOTO. FIVE CENTURIES AGO,
PRINCE HENRY THE NAVIGATOR, DETERMINED TO BROADEN
EUROPE'S HORIZONS AND SPREAD CATHOLICISM, ESTABLISHED HIS SAILING SCHOOL
RIGHT HERE. THIS WAS HENRY'S
MISSION CONTROL, FROM WHERE HE SENT SAILORS
EVER FURTHER INTO THE UNKNOWN. AND HERE HE DEBRIEFED
SHIPWRECKED AND FRUSTRATED EXPLORERS
AS THEY WASHED ASHORE. LITTLE REMAINS OF HENRY'S
ORIGINAL SCHOOL BEYOND THIS EVOCATIVE
STONE CIRCLE. NOBODY REALLY KNOWS
ITS FUNCTION. SOME SAY IT WAS A TOOL
FOR CELESTIAL NAVIGATION. OTHERS FIGURE
IT WAS A WIND COMPASS, WITH A FLAG IN THE MIDDLE BLOWING IN THE DIRECTION
OF THE WIND. WHATEVER THE CASE,
SAILORS CAME HERE TO LEARN EVERYTHING THEY NEEDED
TO KNOW FOR WORLD EXPLORATION: SHIPBUILDING, MAPMAKING,
NAVIGATION, EVEN LANGUAGES
AND SALESMANSHIP FOR MINGLING WITH NATIVES
IN NEWLY DISCOVERED LANDS. TODAY, CAPE SAGRES MARKS
THE WESTERN TIP OF THE ALGARVE. PORTUGAL'S SOUTH COAST
WAS ONCE KNOWN AS EUROPE'S LAST UNDISCOVERED
TOURIST FRONTIER. BUT NOW, IT'S WELL DISCOVERED,
THE DARLING OF TOUR BROCHURES AND MUCH LIKE SPAIN'S
COSTA DEL SOL: PAVED, PACKED
AND PRETTY DEVELOPED. LAGOS, WITH A JET-SKI MARINA
AND A BEACH-PARTY OLD TOWN, IS AS ENJOYABLE
AS A BIG CITY RESORT CAN BE. THE MAJOR TOWN ON THIS STRETCH
OF COAST, LAGOS HIDES SOME HISTORY. IT WAS THE CAPITAL
OF THE ALGARVE IN THE 13th AND 14th CENTURIES. THE FIRST GREAT PORTUGUESE
MARITIME EXPEDITIONS EMBARKED FROM HERE, AND EUROPE'S FIRST
AFRICAN SLAVE MARKET WAS HELD UNDER THESE ARCHES. THE OLD TOWN,
DEFINED BY ITS MEDIEVAL WALL, IS A JUMBLE OF PEDESTRIAN
STREETS, FUNKY CRAFT SHOPS, SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS
AND SUNBURNED TOURISTS. THE BEACHES, WITH THE EXOTIC
ROCK FORMATIONS OF POSTCARD FAME,
ARE DRAMATIC. WHILE LAGOS IS PRETTY TOURISTY,
ONE BIT OF OLD ALGARVE MAGIC STILL GLITTERS QUIETLY
IN THE SUN: SALEMA. THIS SIMPLE FISHING VILLAGE
HAS JUST ENOUGH B&Bs AND RESTAURANTS, A CLASSIC BEACH AND ENDLESS SUN. [ girl screams ] SALEMA HAS A SPLIT PERSONALITY. THE WHITEWASHED OLD TOWN
IS FOR LOCALS; THE OTHER HALF WAS BUILT
FOR TOURISTS. LOCALS AND TOURISTS PURSUE
A POLICY OF PEACEFUL COEXISTENCE. SALEMA IS STILL
A FISHING VILLAGE. WEATHER-WORN FISHERMEN,
OBLIVIOUS TO THE TOURISTS, GO ABOUT THEIR WORK, WHILE
OLD-TIMERS REMEMBER THE DAYS WHEN LIFE WAS ONLY
FISH AND HUNGER. THE POTTERY JARS STACKED
EVERYWHERE ARE OCTOPUS TRAPS. THEY GET SHORE LEAVE ONLY FOR
A PERIODIC BARNACLE SCRAPING; OTHERWISE, THEY'RE BUSY AT SEA,
CATCHING OCTOPI. LOCAL FISHERMAN LOUISE
IS TAKING US OUT TO CHECK THE POTS. THEY'RE STRUNG ALONG THE SEABED
JUST OFFSHORE, A TECHNIQUE THAT'S CHANGED
LITTLE SINCE ANCIENT TIMES. THE OCTOPUS, THINKING THESE
POTS WOULD MAKE A COZY PLACE TO SET AN AMBUSH, CLIMBS IN
AND GETS AMBUSHED HIMSELF. WHEN THE FISHERMAN
HOISTS HIM IN, HE HANGS ON, UNAWARE HE'S MADE
HIS FINAL MISTAKE. THE OCTOPUS IS INDELICATELY
MACED OUT OF HIS REFUGE, ENDS UP IN THE VILLAGE MARKET
AND, WHO KNOWS, PERHAPS ON MY DINNER PLATE
TONIGHT. THESE DAYS, LOCALS HOOK
MORE TOURISTS THAN FISH. THEY RENT CHEAP
AND CHARACTERISTIC ROOMS TO TRAVELERS. FOR A LITTLE MORE
COMFORT AND CONVENIENCE, YOU CAN STAY AT PENSION MARE. THE BREAKFAST IS A BUFFET
AND COMES WITH A VIEW. GUESTS ENJOY INTERNET ACCESS AND PLENTY
OF SIGHT-SEEING TIPS. AND THE LIVING ROOM
IS MOSTLY UNDER THE SUN. FOR SEAFOOD LOVERS, THE ALGARVE
IS AS GOOD AS IT GETS. SALEMA'S HANDFUL OF SURFSIDE
RESTAURANTS HAVE A KNACK FOR FRIENDLY SERVICE,
GETTING WHITE FISH JUST RIGHT AND COMPLEMENTING THAT
WITH PLENTY OF VEGETABLES. AFTER A GREAT LUNCH,
THE BEACH BECKONS. AND AFTER SO MUCH
HISTORY AND ART, SALEMA IS REFRESHING
FOR ITS LACK OF TURNSTILES. THE MAJOR ACTIVITY
IS NO ACTIVITY, STRETCHED OUT ON THE SAND. WHILE LOCALS GRAB THE SHADE, TOURISTS SEE HOW SLOW
THEY CAN GET THEIR PULSE UNDER THE ALGARVE SUN. WHETHER IN A FISHING VILLAGE
LIKE SALEMA OR A BIG CITY LIKE LISBON,
PORTUGAL'S AN ENDEARING LAND WITH A SUPERPOWER PAST
THAT MIXES COMFORTABLY WITH A CHARMING
AND LAID-BACK PRESENT. I'M RICK STEVES. UNTIL NEXT TIME,
KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.