Lisbon and the Algarve

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HI I'M RICK STEVES BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE. THIS TIME, WE RETURN TO PORTUGAL. STICK AROUND -- WITH A LITTLE LUCK, WE'LL CATCH ONE OF THESE! STICK AROUND -- WITH A LITTLE LUCK, WE'LL CATCH ONE OF THESE! OF HISTORY AND CULTURE CHISELED INTO ITS GRAND BUILDINGS AND GROUND BETWEEN ITS SALTY COBBLES. IT WAS ONCE A GLOBAL SUPERPOWER, WITH A VAST EMPIRE STRETCHING FROM AFRICA TO BRAZIL, ALL THE WAY TO THE FAR EAST. THEN IT WAS THE POOREST NATION IN WESTERN EUROPE. TODAY IT'S THRIVING ONCE AGAIN AS AN EQUAL PARTNER IN THE EUROPEAN UNION. <font color="#00FFFF"> IN LISBON, WE'LL DELVE INTO A COLORFUL CAPITAL</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> RICH IN HISTORY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WE'LL SING WITH LOCALS BURIED DEEP IN THE OLD TOWN,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SIP COFFEE ON STOOLS ONCE WARMED</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BY GREAT PORTUGUESE POETS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> COVET SLINKY ART NOUVEAU JEWELRY</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND MARVEL AT THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF THE "AGE OF DISCOVERY."</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THEN, WE HEAD SOUTH FOR THE "LANDS END" OF EUROPE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHERE WE'LL FISH FOR OCTOPI AND SAVOR THE FRESHEST OF SEAFOOD</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> ON THE SOUTH COAST OF MY TRAVEL DREAMS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> PORTUGAL AND SPAIN FILL THE IBERIAN PENINSULA,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SHARING THE OLDEST BORDER IN EUROPE.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FROM LISBON, WE TRAVEL SOUTH TO THE ALGARVE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> CHECKING OUT THE RESORT CITY OF LAGOS AND CAPE SAGRES,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BEFORE SETTLING INTO THE FISHING VILLAGE OF SALEMA.</font> WE'RE STARTING IN LISBON, A CITY OF ABOUT 600,000 ON THE YAWNING MOUTH OF THE TEJO RIVER. WITH ITS HUGE PORT WELCOMING SHIPS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE, THIS CITY OF MAGELLAN AND VASCO da GAMA STILL FEELS LIKE EUROPE'S GATEWAY TO THE WORLD. <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON'S MILE-AND-A-HALF-LONG SUSPENSION BRIDGE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> ONE OF THE LONGEST IN THE WORLD, WAS BUILT IN 1966</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BY THE SAME COMPANY THAT BUILT ITS COUSIN IN SAN FRANCISCO.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> A TOWERING STATUE OF CHRIST OVERLOOKS LISBON</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FROM ACROSS THE TEJO RIVER,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> STRETCHING HIS ARMS WIDE TO SYMBOLICALLY BLESS THE CITY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON IS A RAMSHACKLE BUT CHARMING MIX OF NOW AND THEN.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OLD TROLLEYS CLATTER UP AND DOWN ITS HILLS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BIRD-STAINED STATUES MARK GRAND SQUARES,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> TAXIS RATTLE AND SCREECH AROUND COBBLED CORNERS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND WELL-WORN PEOPLE HANG OUT IN ART NOUVEAU CAFES.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SURVEY THE CITY'S CHARM ON A TROLLEY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SLEEK NEW ONES GLIDE, WHILE VINTAGE MODELS FROM THE 1920s</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SHAKE AND SHIVER THROUGH THE OLD TOWN.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> CLIMBING STEEP HILLS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND SOMEHOW WEAVING WITHIN INCHES OF PARKED CARS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THEY OFFER SIGHTSEERS CHEAP AND BREEZY VIEWS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF THIS GREAT CITY.</font> LISBON'S HISTORY GOES ALL THE WAY BACK TO ROMAN TIMES, BUT THE CITY'S GLORY DAYS WERE THE 15th AND 16th CENTURY, WHICH VASCO da GAMA AND THE GANG SAILED AROUND AFRICA, OPENING UP NEW TRADE ROUTES TO INDIA AND MAKING THIS CITY ONE OF EUROPE'S WEALTHIEST. <font color="#00FFFF"> PORTUGAL'S AGE OF DISCOVERY</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FUELED AN ECONOMIC AND CULTURAL BOOM TIME IN THE 1500s.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IN THE EARLY 1700s, THE GOLD AND DIAMONDS OF BRAZIL,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> ONE OF PORTUGAL'S COLONIES, MADE LISBON EVEN WEALTHIER.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE SCARRED PILLARS OF THE REBUILT</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> CHURCH OF SAN DOMINGOS EVOKE THE WORST CALAMITY</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IN PORTUGUESE HISTORY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> ON ALL SAINTS' DAY IN 1755,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHILE MOST OF THE POPULATION WAS IN CHURCH,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> A TREMENDOUS EARTHQUAKE STRUCK THE CITY.</font> THEY SAY CANDLES QUIVERED AS FAR AWAY AS IRELAND. THIRTY THOUSAND DIED AS TWO-THIRDS OF LISBON WAS LEVELED. IT WAS THREE DISASTERS IN THE SPACE OF A FEW HORRIBLE MINUTES. AFTER THE QUAKE, FIRES RAGED THROUGHOUT THE CITY. THEN, A MASSIVE TIDAL WAVE SLAMMED INTO THE HARBOR FRONT. <font color="#00FFFF"> THE CITY WAS RECONSTRUCTED UNDER THE ENERGETIC</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND EVENTUALLY DICTATORIAL LEADERSHIP</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF ITS PRIME MINISTER, THE MARQUES de POMBAL.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE NEW LISBON WAS BUILT ON A PROGRESSIVE GRID PLAN,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WITH BROAD BOULEVARDS AND SQUARE SQUARES.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND TODAY, THE CITY, WITH ITS POMBALINE SQUARES</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> NEWLY BUFFED AND A FINANCIAL BOOST</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FROM ITS MEMBERSHIP IN THE EUROPEAN UNION,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SEEMS BETTER ORGANIZED, CLEANER, MORE PROSPEROUS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND PEOPLE FRIENDLY THAN EVER.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND, WITH SOME OF EUROPE'S LOWEST PRICES,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON IS EASY ON THE BUDGET.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON'S CASTLE OF ST. GEORGE WAS FIRST BUILT</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BY THE MUSLIM MOORS, WHO SWEPT IN FROM NORTH AFRICA</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND CONQUERED THIS REGION IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AFTER PORTUGAL'S KING AFONSO HENRIQUES BEAT THE MOORS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IN THE 12th CENTURY, THE CASTLE BECAME A ROYAL PALACE.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LATER, THE KING MOVED AND THE CASTLE FELL INTO RUINS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHILE TODAY THE CASTLE IS JUST A BARREN SHELL,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT'S SURROUNDED BY A PEACEFUL AND INVITING PARK</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WITH THE CITY'S BEST VIEWPOINT.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON'S SALTY SAILORS' QUARTER, THE ALFAMA,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> TUMBLES FROM THE CASTLE TO THE RIVER.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT DATES BACK OVER A THOUSAND YEARS, TO MOORISH TIMES.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE TANGLED STREET PLAN HERE IS ONE OF THE FEW ASPECTS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF LISBON TO SURVIVE THE GREAT QUAKE OF 1755,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> HELPING MAKE THE ALFAMA A COBBLED PLAYGROUND</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF OLD WORLD COLOR.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE ALFAMA'S URBAN JUNGLE ROADS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> ARE SQUEEZED INTO A MAZE OF CONFUSING ALLEYS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BENT HOUSES COMFORT EACH OTHER IN THEIR ROMANTIC SHABBINESS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE AIR DRIPS WITH LAUNDRY</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND THE SMELL OF CLAMS AND RAW FISH.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WITH THE HELP OF MY FRIEND AND FELLOW TOUR GUIDE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> CLAUDIA da COSTA,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> A WANDER THROUGH THE ALFAMA TAKES ON SOME MEANING.</font> I JUST LOVE THIS PLACE; I JUST LOVE THIS PLACE. YOU SEE, EVERYBODY'S HERE. EVERYBODY KNOWS EACH OTHER. YOU SEE? [ Rick chuckling ] YOU CAN LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN BECAUSE THEY KNOW EACH OTHER. HERE YOU DON'T HAVE POLICE BECAUSE THEY PROTECT EACH OTHER. IT'S LIKE A BIG FAMILY. IT'S VERY NICE, VERY NICE. HERE YOU HAVE ST. ANTHONY. YEAH. ST. ANTHONY IS THE LOCAL PATRON SAINT AND FISHERMEN'S PATRON SAINT BECAUSE FISHERMEN LIVE HERE. AND THEN YOU HAVE PLASTIC BAGS FILLED WITH WATER, BECAUSE WE SAY THESE KEEP AWAY THE FLIES. DOES IT WORK? [ speaking Portuguese ] IT WORKS. YEAH? NO FLIES. [ laughing ] <font color="#00FFFF"> Obrigado.</font> IN ALFAMA, TRADITIONS ARE STRONG. IF A WOMAN LOSE HER HUSBAND, SHE WILL WEAR BLACK FOR THE REST OF HER LIFE. AND IF SOME REASON SHE WANTS TO STOP WEARING IT, I THINK HER NEIGHBORHOOD WILL QUESTION HER ABOUT HER RESPECT AND LOVE ABOUT HER HUSBAND OR SON, BECAUSE IT'S LIKE THIS. TRADITIONS ARE VERY, VERY STRONG IN ALFAMA. [ singing in Portuguese ] <font color="#00FFFF"> AND TRADITIONS SURVIVE IN THE PASSIONATE MUSIC CALLED FADO.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WE'RE HAVING DINNER IN A RESTAURANT</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHICH SERENADES DINERS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WITH THE FOLK MUSIC OF LISBON'S BACK STREETS.</font> [ singing in Portuguese ] <font color="#00FFFF"> THIS IS AN EXPERIENCE I RECOMMEND IN MY GUIDEBOOKS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> RUSTIC PORTUGUESE CUISINE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> SEASONED WITH THIS UNFORGETTABLE MUSIC.</font> [ singing continues ] [ applause ] <font color="#00FFFF"> THE MARQUES de POMBAL'S REBUILT CENTER OF LISBON,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> CALLED THE BAIXA, IS TODAY A FLAT, INVITING SHOPPING AREA</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OF GRID-PATTERNED STREETS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE MAIN BOULEVARD IS PEDESTRIANS-ONLY RUA AUGUSTA.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE UNIFORM POST-EARTHQUAKE OR POMBALINE ARCHITECTURE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IS UTILITARIAN.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT'S DECORATED ONLY WITH WROUGHT IRON AND TILES.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IN THE YEARS AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> LISBON DID A LOT OF BUILDING WITHOUT A LOT OF MONEY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE SANTA JUSTA ELEVATOR WAS BUILT</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> TO CONNECT THE LOWER TOWN WITH THE HIGH TOWN.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT WAS CONSTRUCTED IN 1902,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> A FEW YEARS AFTER ITS INSPIRATION:</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE EIFFEL TOWER.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE ROSSIO TRAIN STATION BRINGS IN WORKERS FROM THE SUBURBS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND A FUNICULAR WORKS HARD ALL DAY, HAULING PEOPLE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FROM THE LOWER TOWN TO THE CHARACTERISTIC BAIRRO ALTO,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OR HIGH TOWN.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHILE IN THE HIGH TOWN,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WE'RE VISITING THE PORT WINE INSTITUTE,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHERE YOU CAN SAMPLE PORTUGAL'S MOST FAMOUS BEVERAGE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IN CLUBBY COMFORT.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHILE HERE, YOU CAN SELECT FROM A MENU OF 300 DIFFERENT PORTS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> MOST AVAILABLE BY THE GLASS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> PORT DIFFERS FROM WINE IN THAT ITS FERMENTATION PROCESS</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IS CUT SHORT BY THE ADDITION OF PURE ALCOHOL,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHICH FORTIFIES IT.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> EVEN SO, THERE'S A GREAT DIVERSITY AMONG PORTS.</font> WHAT SHOULD WE TRY? GIVE US TWO GLASSES, PLEASE. TWO GLASSES, OKAY. I RECOMMEND ONE TAWNY TEN YEARS OLD. IT'S EXCELLENT WINE. IT'S VERY GOOD WINE. TAWNY TEN YEAR. LET'S HAVE TWO GLASSES OF THAT. <font color="#00FFFF"> THE TEN-YEAR TAWNY IS A BLEND OF PORTS OF VARIOUS AGES</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AVERAGING TEN YEARS OLD.</font> WHAT DO YOU EAT WITH THIS? WITH ICE CREAM IT'S EXCELLENT. WITH ICE CREAM? YES, WITH ICE CREAM OR WITH PASTRIES IT'S VERY, VERY SWEET. I CAN IMAGINE IT WITH ICE CREAM. YEAH. <font color="#00FFFF"> HMM, THIS ONE LOOKS LIKE IT WOULD MATCH UP WELL</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WITH A COMPLEX ROCKY ROAD,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> OR PERHAPS A PRALINES AND CREAM.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> JUST DOWN THE STREET, THE CHURCH OF SAN ROQUE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WAS BUILT BY THE JESUITS IN THE 16th CENTURY.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE ACOUSTICS HERE ARE TOP-NOTCH,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IMPORTANT IN A JESUIT CHURCH</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHERE THE EMPHASIS IS ON THE SERMON.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE CEILING, WHILE FLAT AND MADE OF WOOD, IS PAINTED</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> TO GIVE THE ILLUSION OF MARBLE ARCHES AND DOMES.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THE CHAPEL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IS ONE OF THE MOST COSTLY CHAPELS PER SQUARE INCH</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> EVER CONSTRUCTED.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT LOOKS LIKE IT CAME RIGHT OUT OF THE VATICAN,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BECAUSE IT DID.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> MADE IN ROME OUT OF THE MOST PRECIOUS MATERIALS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT WAS USED FOR ONE PAPAL MASS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THEN IT WAS DISASSEMBLED AND SHIPPED HERE TO LISBON.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHILE THESE LOOK LIKE PAINTINGS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THEY'RE ACTUALLY INTRICATE MOSAICS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> A VATICAN SPECIALTY, MOSAICS WERE USED TO AVOID DAMAGE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> FROM CANDLE SMOKE THAT WOULD DARKEN PAINTINGS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> COFFEEHOUSE JUNKIES HAVE A NEAR-RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> NEARBY AT THE GRAND OLD A BRASILEIRA CAFE.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> THIS CAFE RETAINS SOME OF THE AMBIANCE IT HAD</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> BACK IN THE 1920s AND '30s,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WHEN IT WAS THE LITERARY AND CREATIVE SOUL OF LISBON.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> IT WAS THE HANGOUT OF AVANT-GARDE POETS,</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> WRITERS AND PAINTERS.</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND IT'S STILL A GOOD PLACE FOR A CUP OF COFFEE</font> <font color="#00FFFF"> AND A pastel de Nata.</font> THE BELOVED POET PESSOA STILL SITS OUTSIDE. LISBON, THE CAPITAL OF THE PORTUGUESE-SPEAKING WORLD, IS A MELTING POT OF ITS ONCE-VAST EMPIRE. IMMIGRANTS FROM FORMER COLONIES SUCH AS MOZAMBIQUE AND ANGOLA HAVE ADDED DIVERSITY AND FLAVOR TO THE CITY, MAKING IT AS LIKELY YOU'LL HEAR AFRICAN MUSIC THESE DAYS AS PORTUGUESE FADO. THIS IS A GREAT TAXI TOWN. CABBIES STICK TO THEIR METERS AND ARE GENERALLY GOOD-HUMORED. RIDES ARE CHEAP AND DECALS ON THE WINDOW CLEARLY SPELL OUT ALL CHARGES IN ENGLISH. ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE SHARING COSTS, LISBON'S CABS ARE AN ECONOMIC TIME-SAVER. WE'RE HEADING FOR LISBON'S TOP MUSEUM. THE GULBENKIAN MUSEUM OFFERS ONE OF THE MOST ENJOYABLE MUSEUM EXPERIENCES IN ALL OF EUROPE. THE COOL, UNCROWDED, GORGEOUSLY LIT MUSEUM DISPLAYS ONLY A FEW EXQUISITE WORKS FROM EACH EPOCH. VISITORS STROLL ACROSS THE GLOBE THROUGH FIVE MILLENNIA OF HUMAN HISTORY, APPRECIATING OUR ANCESTORS BY SEEING OBJECTS THEY CONSIDERED BEAUTIFUL. FIVE THOUSAND YEARS AGO, EGYPTIAN CIVILIZATION BROUGHT AN UNPRECEDENTED REFINEMENT TO HUMANKIND. THIS FELINE-TOPPED COFFIN HELD THE MUMMIFIED REMAINS OF A CAT. MESOPOTAMIAN RELIEFS REMIND US THAT IT WAS IN THE FERTILE CRESCENT, PRESENT-DAY IRAQ, THAT WRITING WAS INVENTED. CENTURIES LATER, BUT STILL LONG BEFORE CHRIST, THE GREEKS TOOK CIVILIZATION TO NEW HEIGHTS. THIS VASE, DECORATED WITH SCENES OF HALF-HUMAN SATYRS CHASING HUMAN WOMEN, REMINDS US OF THE RATIONAL GREEKS' STRUGGLE TO OVERCOME THEIR BARBARIAN, ANIMAL-LIKE URGES. THE COLLECTION HELPS BRING TO LIFE THE MYSTERIOUS WORLD OF THE MOORS, WHO RULED THIS PART OF EUROPE THROUGH THE MIDDLE AGES. THEY CAME FROM AN ARABIC AND MUSLIM REALM WHERE ORNATELY-PATTERNED TILES AND FINE GLASS LAMPS DECORATED MOSQUES AND PALACES. IN THE 1500s, PORTUGUESE SAILORS BEGAN TRADING WITH CHINA. AMONG THE MANY TREASURES THEY BROUGHT HOME WERE BLUE AND WHITE MING CERAMICS, WHICH BECAME ALL THE RAGE, INSPIRING THE DELFTWARE OF HOLLAND AND PORTUGAL'S azulejo TILES. THE CREATIVITY OF MEDIEVAL EUROPE WAS DEVOTED MOSTLY TO ITS CHRISTIAN FAITH. FOLD-UP ALTARPIECES EIGHT INCHES TALL HELPED TRAVELERS WORSHIP. EARLY BIBLES AND RELIGIOUS BOOKS WERE RICHLY DECORATED. ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS LIKE THESE CAME WITH SOME OF EUROPE'S FINEST PRE-RENAISSANCE ART. LATER, RENAISSANCE AND BAROQUE PAINTERS CELEBRATED GOD'S CREATION IN THE FACES OF ORDINARY PEOPLE, WHETHER GHIRLANDAIO'S FRESH-FACED YOUNG MAIDEN, FRANS HALS' WRINKLED OLD WOMAN, OR REMBRANDT'S PORTRAIT OF AN OLD MAN, WHOSE CREASE-LINED HANDS TELL THE STORY OF HIS LIFE. GULBENKIAN'S COLLECTION OF FURNITURE, ONCE ACTUALLY OWNED BY FRENCH KINGS, IS A ROYAL HOME SHOW. IT SHOWS OFF THE LOUIS THE 14th STYLE, ORNATE WITH CURVED LEGS AND ANIMAL-CLAWED FEET, AND THE LOUIS THE 16th STYLE, STRAIGHT LEGS, TAPERED AND MORE MODERN. FOLLOW THE PROGRESSION OF EUROPE'S INCREASINGLY REFINED STYLES, FROM STORMY ROMANTICISM, LIKE THIS TUMULTUOUS SHIPWRECK BY TURNER, TO PRE-RAPHAELITE DREAMSCAPES, LIKE THIS MIRROR OF VENUS, TO THE GLINTING, SHIMMERING IMPRESSIONISM OF MONET, RENOIR AND THE ENGLISHMAN JOHN SINGER SARGENT. AND FINISH YOUR WALK THROUGH GULBENKIAN'S GARDEN OF MAN-MADE BEAUTY WITH THE NUBILE ART NOUVEAU GLASSWORK AND JEWELRY OF THE FRENCH DESIGNER RENE LALIQUE. A TROLLEY TAKES US ALONG THE WATERFRONT FROM DOWNTOWN LISBON TO THE BELEM DISTRICT, A STATELY PINCUSHION OF IMPORTANT SIGHTS, FROM THE DAYS WHEN PORTUGAL WAS EUROPE'S RICHEST POWER. BELEM SURVIVED THE BIG EARTHQUAKE. BECAUSE OF THAT, PORTUGAL'S SUDDENLY SAFETY-CONSCIOUS AND RATTLED ROYALTY CHOSE TO LIVE OUT HERE, UNDER WOODEN RATHER THAN STONE BUILDINGS. TO THIS DAY, PORTUGAL'S ROYAL PALACE STANDS BEHIND THESE WALLS. THE ADJACENT ROYAL STABLES NOW HOUSE ONE OF EUROPE'S TOP COACH MUSEUMS. IN 1905, THE LAST QUEEN OF PORTUGAL REALIZED THAT CARS WOULD SOON MAKE HORSE-DRAWN CARRIAGES OBSOLETE. SHE DECIDED TO PRESERVE HER FINE COLLECTION OF ROYAL COACHES HERE. THE MUSEUM SHOWS 70 DAZZLING CARRIAGES IN THE QUEEN'S ELEGANT, OLD RIDING ROOM. THE OLDEST IS THE CRUDE AND SIMPLE COACH USED BY KING PHILLIP THE SECOND TO SHUTTLE BETWEEN MADRID AND LISBON IN AROUND 1600. THIS COACH HAD NO DRIVER'S SEAT. ITS DRIVERS WOULD ACTUALLY RIDE THE HORSES. WITH BAD ROADS AND CRUDE LEATHER-STRAP SUSPENSION, THE RIDE WAS SLOW AND ROUGH. YOU'LL HAVE TO TRUST ME ON THIS, BUT IF YOU LIFT UP THE CUSHION, YOU'LL FIND A POTTY HOLE, ALSO HANDY FOR ROAD SICKNESS. TRACING THE EVOLUTION OF COACHES THROUGH THE NEXT CENTURY, YOU'LL NOTICE THE DECORATION EVOLVES ALONG WITH THE COMFORT. THE PORTUGUESE COAT OF ARMS INDICATES THIS CARRIAGE WAS PART OF THE ROYAL FLEET. THE ORNAMENTATION INCLUDES A FOLK FESTIVAL OF EXOTIC FACES FROM PORTUGAL'S DISTANT COLONIES. THE LUMBERING "OCEAN COACH" IS AS ORNATE AS IT IS LONG. AT THE STERN, GOLD FIGURES, SYMBOLIZING THE ATLANTIC AND INDIAN OCEANS HOLDING HANDS, REMINDED ALL OF PORTUGAL'S MASTERY OF THE SEA. JUST DOWN THE STREET IS THE JERONOMOUS MONASTERY, WITH LISBON'S MOST IMPRESSIVE CHURCH. KING MANUEL, WHO RULED AROUND THE YEAR 1500, BUILT THIS GIANT CHURCH AND MONASTERY AS A THANKS FOR OVERSEAS DISCOVERIES. MANUEL FINANCED THE CONSTRUCTION IN PART WITH PEPPER MONEY, A 5% TAX LEVIED ON SPICES BROUGHT BACK FROM INDIA. HE BUILT ALL THIS ON THE SITE OF A HUMBLE SAILORS' CHAPEL, WHERE SEAFARERS WOULD PRAY BEFORE EMBARKING ON THEIR FRIGHTENING VOYAGES. THE STYLE OF MANUEL'S CHURCH? MANUELINE. THIS UNIQUELY PORTUGUESE STYLE REFLECTS THE WEALTH OF THE TIMES AND THE MANY CULTURAL INFLUENCES OF THE AGE OF DISCOVERY. MANUELINE DECORATION IS ORNATE, FEATURING MOTIFS FROM THE SEA. THIS STYLE IS ON THE CUSP OF THE RENAISSANCE. UNLIKE EARLIER MEDIEVAL CHURCHES, THE INTERIOR IS MORE OPEN. PALM TREE-LIKE COLUMNS ARE SLENDER RATHER THAN MASSIVE, AND THE SIDE AISLES ARE AS LOFTY AS THE NAVE. THE INTERIOR IS DECORATED WITH MORE AGE-OF-DISCOVERY MOTIFS. MONSTERS EVOKE THE MYSTERY OF UNDISCOVERED LANDS. A TOTEM POLE OF FACES CELEBRATES PORTUGUESE CONQUESTS. ARTICHOKES, EATEN FOR VITAMIN C TO FIGHT SCURVY, REMIND OF HARDSHIPS SAILORS FACED AT SEA. AND THE CEILING, A BOY SCOUT HANDBOOK OF KNOTS, TRUMPETS PORTUGAL'S TECHNICAL EXPERTISE. THIS IS VASCO da GAMA'S TOMB. IN 1497, HE SPENT AN EVENING PRAYING HERE FOR A SAFE VOYAGE. THE NEXT MORNING HE SET SAIL WITH FOUR SHIPS, CARAVELS LIKE THIS, AND 150 MEN. HIS MISSION? TO FIND A DIRECT TRADE ROUTE TO THE VAST WEALTH OF ASIA. WHEN HE SUCCEEDED, SAILING AROUND AFRICA, SEA TRADE ECLIPSED OVERLAND TRADE WITH ASIA AND ALMOST IMMEDIATELY, ITALY'S TRADE PLUMMETED, PORTUGAL'S TRADE SKYROCKETED, AND THE SEAFARING NATIONS ALONG EUROPE'S ATLANTIC COAST -- ENGLAND, HOLLAND, SPAIN AND PORTUGAL -- EMERGED AS ECONOMIC POWERHOUSES. WITH ALL THAT PROSPERITY CAME MONEY FOR ART. THESE LACY MANUELINE CLOISTERS, MY FAVORITE IN ALL OF EUROPE, ARE THE ARCHITECTURAL HIGHLIGHT OF BELEM. THE SHEER SIZE OF THIS RELIGIOUS COMPLEX IS A TESTAMENT TO THE RELIGIOUS MOTIVATION THAT, ALONG WITH MONEY, PROPELLED THE AGE OF DISCOVERY. THE BELEM TOWER, WITH MORE TEXTBOOK MANUELINE DECOR, PROTECTED LISBON'S HARBOR. TODAY IT SYMBOLIZES THE VOYAGES THAT MADE PORTUGAL POWERFUL. THIS WAS THE LAST SIGHT SAILORS SAW AS THEY LEFT AND THE FIRST WHEN THEY RETURNED, BEARING GOLD AND SPICES. THE GIANT MONUMENT TO THE DISCOVERIES, BUILT IN 1960 ON THE 500th ANNIVERSARY OF HENRY THE NAVIGATOR'S DEATH, SHOWS THAT EXPLORING THE WORLD WAS A TEAM EFFORT. STANDING ON THE PROW OF A SHIP ARE ROYALTY, POETS AND PAINTERS, KNIGHTS WHO CHRISTIANIZED FOREIGN LANDS WITH THE SWORD, GREAT EXPLORERS SUCH AS VASCO da GAMA, AND FINALLY, THE MAN WHO SPEARHEADED THE PUSH FOR EXPLORATION, PRINCE HENRY THE NAVIGATOR, HOLDING THE SHIP THAT MADE IT POSSIBLE: A CARAVEL. TO MIX IN A LITTLE FUN IN THE SUN WITH OUR HISTORY, WE'RE DRIVING THREE HOURS SOUTH TO THE RUGGED SOUTHWESTERN TIP OF PORTUGAL, CAPE SAGRES. THIS WAS AS CLOSE AS YOU COULD GET TO THE EDGE OF OUR FLAT EARTH IN THE DAYS BEFORE COLUMBUS. A LIGHTHOUSE MARKS WHAT WAS REFERRED TO EVEN IN ANCIENT TIMES AS "THE END OF THE WORLD." TODAY, SALT-OF-THE-EARTH MERCHANTS SELL SEAWORTHY SWEATERS, FISHERMEN CAST THEIR LINES OFF THE DIZZYING CLIFFS AND TOURISTS GO FOR THAT END-OF-EUROPE PHOTO. FIVE CENTURIES AGO, PRINCE HENRY THE NAVIGATOR, DETERMINED TO BROADEN EUROPE'S HORIZONS AND SPREAD CATHOLICISM, ESTABLISHED HIS SAILING SCHOOL RIGHT HERE. THIS WAS HENRY'S MISSION CONTROL, FROM WHERE HE SENT SAILORS EVER FURTHER INTO THE UNKNOWN. AND HERE HE DEBRIEFED SHIPWRECKED AND FRUSTRATED EXPLORERS AS THEY WASHED ASHORE. LITTLE REMAINS OF HENRY'S ORIGINAL SCHOOL BEYOND THIS EVOCATIVE STONE CIRCLE. NOBODY REALLY KNOWS ITS FUNCTION. SOME SAY IT WAS A TOOL FOR CELESTIAL NAVIGATION. OTHERS FIGURE IT WAS A WIND COMPASS, WITH A FLAG IN THE MIDDLE BLOWING IN THE DIRECTION OF THE WIND. WHATEVER THE CASE, SAILORS CAME HERE TO LEARN EVERYTHING THEY NEEDED TO KNOW FOR WORLD EXPLORATION: SHIPBUILDING, MAPMAKING, NAVIGATION, EVEN LANGUAGES AND SALESMANSHIP FOR MINGLING WITH NATIVES IN NEWLY DISCOVERED LANDS. TODAY, CAPE SAGRES MARKS THE WESTERN TIP OF THE ALGARVE. PORTUGAL'S SOUTH COAST WAS ONCE KNOWN AS EUROPE'S LAST UNDISCOVERED TOURIST FRONTIER. BUT NOW, IT'S WELL DISCOVERED, THE DARLING OF TOUR BROCHURES AND MUCH LIKE SPAIN'S COSTA DEL SOL: PAVED, PACKED AND PRETTY DEVELOPED. LAGOS, WITH A JET-SKI MARINA AND A BEACH-PARTY OLD TOWN, IS AS ENJOYABLE AS A BIG CITY RESORT CAN BE. THE MAJOR TOWN ON THIS STRETCH OF COAST, LAGOS HIDES SOME HISTORY. IT WAS THE CAPITAL OF THE ALGARVE IN THE 13th AND 14th CENTURIES. THE FIRST GREAT PORTUGUESE MARITIME EXPEDITIONS EMBARKED FROM HERE, AND EUROPE'S FIRST AFRICAN SLAVE MARKET WAS HELD UNDER THESE ARCHES. THE OLD TOWN, DEFINED BY ITS MEDIEVAL WALL, IS A JUMBLE OF PEDESTRIAN STREETS, FUNKY CRAFT SHOPS, SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS AND SUNBURNED TOURISTS. THE BEACHES, WITH THE EXOTIC ROCK FORMATIONS OF POSTCARD FAME, ARE DRAMATIC. WHILE LAGOS IS PRETTY TOURISTY, ONE BIT OF OLD ALGARVE MAGIC STILL GLITTERS QUIETLY IN THE SUN: SALEMA. THIS SIMPLE FISHING VILLAGE HAS JUST ENOUGH B&Bs AND RESTAURANTS, A CLASSIC BEACH AND ENDLESS SUN. [ girl screams ] SALEMA HAS A SPLIT PERSONALITY. THE WHITEWASHED OLD TOWN IS FOR LOCALS; THE OTHER HALF WAS BUILT FOR TOURISTS. LOCALS AND TOURISTS PURSUE A POLICY OF PEACEFUL COEXISTENCE. SALEMA IS STILL A FISHING VILLAGE. WEATHER-WORN FISHERMEN, OBLIVIOUS TO THE TOURISTS, GO ABOUT THEIR WORK, WHILE OLD-TIMERS REMEMBER THE DAYS WHEN LIFE WAS ONLY FISH AND HUNGER. THE POTTERY JARS STACKED EVERYWHERE ARE OCTOPUS TRAPS. THEY GET SHORE LEAVE ONLY FOR A PERIODIC BARNACLE SCRAPING; OTHERWISE, THEY'RE BUSY AT SEA, CATCHING OCTOPI. LOCAL FISHERMAN LOUISE IS TAKING US OUT TO CHECK THE POTS. THEY'RE STRUNG ALONG THE SEABED JUST OFFSHORE, A TECHNIQUE THAT'S CHANGED LITTLE SINCE ANCIENT TIMES. THE OCTOPUS, THINKING THESE POTS WOULD MAKE A COZY PLACE TO SET AN AMBUSH, CLIMBS IN AND GETS AMBUSHED HIMSELF. WHEN THE FISHERMAN HOISTS HIM IN, HE HANGS ON, UNAWARE HE'S MADE HIS FINAL MISTAKE. THE OCTOPUS IS INDELICATELY MACED OUT OF HIS REFUGE, ENDS UP IN THE VILLAGE MARKET AND, WHO KNOWS, PERHAPS ON MY DINNER PLATE TONIGHT. THESE DAYS, LOCALS HOOK MORE TOURISTS THAN FISH. THEY RENT CHEAP AND CHARACTERISTIC ROOMS TO TRAVELERS. FOR A LITTLE MORE COMFORT AND CONVENIENCE, YOU CAN STAY AT PENSION MARE. THE BREAKFAST IS A BUFFET AND COMES WITH A VIEW. GUESTS ENJOY INTERNET ACCESS AND PLENTY OF SIGHT-SEEING TIPS. AND THE LIVING ROOM IS MOSTLY UNDER THE SUN. FOR SEAFOOD LOVERS, THE ALGARVE IS AS GOOD AS IT GETS. SALEMA'S HANDFUL OF SURFSIDE RESTAURANTS HAVE A KNACK FOR FRIENDLY SERVICE, GETTING WHITE FISH JUST RIGHT AND COMPLEMENTING THAT WITH PLENTY OF VEGETABLES. AFTER A GREAT LUNCH, THE BEACH BECKONS. AND AFTER SO MUCH HISTORY AND ART, SALEMA IS REFRESHING FOR ITS LACK OF TURNSTILES. THE MAJOR ACTIVITY IS NO ACTIVITY, STRETCHED OUT ON THE SAND. WHILE LOCALS GRAB THE SHADE, TOURISTS SEE HOW SLOW THEY CAN GET THEIR PULSE UNDER THE ALGARVE SUN. WHETHER IN A FISHING VILLAGE LIKE SALEMA OR A BIG CITY LIKE LISBON, PORTUGAL'S AN ENDEARING LAND WITH A SUPERPOWER PAST THAT MIXES COMFORTABLY WITH A CHARMING AND LAID-BACK PRESENT. I'M RICK STEVES. UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.
Info
Channel: Rick Steves' Europe
Views: 1,036,689
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Jerónomos, Rick Steves (Author), rick steves full episode, rick steves europe, rick steves portugal, rick steves lisbon and the algarve, iberian peninsula, algarve portugal beaches, salema portugal, cape sagres rick steves, cape sagres portugal, gulbenkian lisbon, jeronomos monastery lisbon, portugal travel guide, portugal travel rick steves, portugal travel tips
Id: 5mjEAakFj_A
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 26min 8sec (1568 seconds)
Published: Wed May 14 2014
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