(bright relaxing music) (upbeat instrumental music) (upbeat instrumental music continues) - Hi, I'm Rick Steves. For many travelers, the quintessence of Spain
is found here, Andalusia. The sounds, sites, and
experiences of Southern Spain are shaped by waves of history. In this hour-long special, we'll enjoy the classic
Andalusian experiences in the classic Andalusian places. Dazzling Moorish palaces,
fiery Gypsy musicians, sunny laid-back beaches, a
never-to-forget paella feast, whitewashed hill towns,
somber religious processions, followed by flamboyant flamenco revel, a mighty rock drilled through with history and overrun with mischievous monkeys, weeping virgins, and
the ultimate spring fair with pretty dancers and graceful horsemen. Andalusia is a vibrant
sangria of civilizations. It's a lifestyle, it's proud, and for many, it's the south
coast of their travel dreams. In Southwest Europe is Spain, and in the far south
of Spain is Andalusia. We start in Jerez, zip over to Granada, and join Nerja on the Costa del Sol, explore Cordoba and check out Ronda. Then after side-tripping into Gibraltar, we finish in Seville. Andalusia's heritage is
alive in today's culture and it expresses itself in iconic themes. The town of Jerez is
famous for three of them: Dazzling horses, velvety sherry, and a spring fair that brings
out the entire community for a week-long party. Originally a horse fair, when the sherry producers
joined in, it got really big. Today, the Jerez Fair is a vast collection of over 200 casetas or tents, each owned by a family or local business who host parties until
late into the night. For locals, the fair, which
takes place early each May, kicks off the summer season. (upbeat flamenco music) During the day, the fairgrounds are jangling
with fancy carriages. It's all about fine Andalusian horses and the proud traditions they represent. Women, dressed in their peacock finery, seem ready to break into dance
at the click of a castanet. (crowd chattering) - [Rick] Just down the street, the Royal Andalusian
School of Equestrian Art provides the foundation
for this culture of horses. Performances pack its
arena several times a week. This is exquisite horsemanship. The stern riders and their obedient steeds perform to the delight of both tourists and horse aficionados. (audience applauds) The riders cue the horses with
the slightest of commands, whether verbal or with body movements. (audience applauds) The horses are bred and trained
to be balanced and focused, both physically and mentally. (audience applauds) The equestrian school
functions like a university, open to students from around the world. (audience clapping
rhythmically to cheerful music) And all over Jerez, sherry
bodegas welcome visitors. Just around the corner
from the horse school, the venerable Sandeman Winery has been producing sherry since 1790. Tours explain how the stacked barrels are part of the production process. In a time-honored tradition, new wine is blended with aged wine which is then fortified with alcohol. The vintner shares his product
with a passion and finesse that mirrors the richness
of the sherry tradition. (relaxing guitar music) And the crowd pleasing
finale of every tour is a chance to savor the finished sherry. (group chattering in Spanish) - Throughout the countryside of Spain, sherry is advertised with huge billboards, or bullboards in this case. This big bull is the icon
of another sherry producer. Next is a major stop in any
Andalusian visit, Granada. (rhythmic flamenco music) Sprawling at the foot of the
snow-capped Sierra Mountains, Granada is a thriving city
of about 300,000 people. Visitors focus on its old center
where life has a gentility that belies an illustrious past. Once the grandest city in Spain, its power ebbed and glory faded. It was appreciated mostly by
Romantic Age artists and poets. Today it has a Deep South feel, a relaxed vibe that seems
typical of once powerful places now past their prime. In the cool of the early
evening, the community comes out and celebrates life on
stately, yet inviting plazas. The story of Granada is all
about the Islamic Moors. In the year 711, these
North African Muslims crossed the Straits of Gibraltar and quickly conquered the
entire Iberian Peninsula, eventually converting
most of its inhabitants. Throughout the Middle
Ages, for over 700 years, Spain was a predominantly Muslim society living under Muslim rule. (enchanted upbeat music) And that age shapes
today's sightseeing agenda. Granada's dominant sight is the Alhambra, the last and greatest Moorish palace. Nowhere else does the
splendor of that civilization, Al-Andalus, shine so brightly. For two centuries, until 1492, Granada reigned as the capital of a dwindling Moorish empire. As Christian forces pushed the Moors further and further south,
this palace was the last hurrah of a sophisticated civilization. While the rest of Europe slumbered through much of the Middle Ages, the Moorish civilization was wide awake. The math necessary to
construct this palace would've dazzled Europeans at that age. The Moors made great gains
in engineering, medicine, even Classical Greek studies. In fact, some of the great
thinking of ancient Greece had been forgotten by Europe,
but was absorbed into Islam and actually given back
to Europe via scholars here in Spain. (rhythmic enchanted music) The culture of the Moors was exquisite, artfully combining both
design and aesthetics. Facing a reflecting pond, the Hall of the Ambassadors
was the throne room. It was here that the
sultan, seated Oz-like, received foreign emissaries. Its wooden ceiling illustrates
a command of geometry. With 8,000 pieces inlaid
like a giant jigsaw puzzle, it symbolizes the complexity
of Allah's infinite universe. Arabic calligraphy, mostly poems and verses
of praise from the Quran, is everywhere. Muslims avoid making
images of living creatures, that's God's work, but decorating with
religious messages is fine. One phrase, "Only God is victorious," is repeated 9,000 times
throughout the Alhambra. Like the sultan, we can
escape from the palace into what was the most perfect
Arabian garden in Andalusia. This royal summer retreat,
lush and bursting with water, was the closest thing on Earth to the Quran's description of Heaven. In fact, its name, the Generalife,
meant essentially that, the Garden of Paradise. Water, so rare and precious
in most of the Islamic world, was the purest symbol of life. Whether providing for its
2,000 thirsty residents, masking secret conversations, or just flowing playfully, water was integral to the
space the Alhambra created. (water babbling) For centuries, Europe struggled to push
the Moors back into Africa. This campaign was called the Reconquista. Finally, in 1492, the Moors were defeated. The victorious Christian forces established their rule with gusto here in this last Muslim stronghold. (somber drumming music) This victory helped provide the foundation for Spain's Golden Age. Within a generation, Spain's
king, Charles the Fifth, was the most powerful man in the world. After the Reconquest, Charles built this Renaissance palace incongruously right in the
middle of the Alhambra grounds. It's what conquering civilizations do, build their palace atop
their foe's palace. This circle in a square structure was the finest Renaissance
palace in all of Spain. And back downtown,
Granada's Cathedral facade, also built shortly after the Reconquest, declares triumph as well. In fact, its design is
based on a triumphal arch and it was built over a destroyed mosque. (relaxing guitar music) The adjacent royal chapel is
Granada's top Christian site. This fine building provided
a fitting resting place for Queen Isabella of Castile
and King Ferdinand of Aragon who ruled during the
final Reconquista victory. Spaniards consider this couple the first great Spanish royals. When these two married, they
combined their huge kingdoms. And by merging Aragon and Castile, they founded what became modern Spain. With this powerful new realm, Spanish royalty were able
to finance great explorers, including Columbus, and
establish Spain's Golden Age. (cheerful enchanted guitar music) The royal tombs are Renaissance in style. The portraits of Isabella and Ferdinand are vital and realistic. They seem to celebrate the humanistic spirit of the Renaissance, and with it a promising future for Spain. The gilded altar is all
about that Christian triumph. Christ triumphs over sin and Christendom triumphs over Islam. In fact, reliefs show the eventual forced
conversion of Granada's Moors shortly after the Reconquista. For a time near the end
of its Moorish period, Granada was the grandest
city in all of Spain. But eventually with the
tumult that came with the change from Muslim to Christian rule, the city lost its power,
settled into a long slumber. Today's Granada is a delightful
mix of both its Moorish and its Christian past. The Silk Market, or AlcaicerÃa, was originally across the
street from the main mosque so today it stands across
from the main church. Filled with precious goods,
salt, silver, spices, and silk, it was protected within
10 fortified gates. Today while a tourist trap housed in a modern reconstruction, this colorful mesh of shopping lanes and overpriced trinkets is fun to explore. You'll invariably meet
persistent Gypsy women pushing their fragrant
sprigs and palm-reading and then demanding payment. You can consider them
aggressive and annoying, or you can zip up your valuables and have a fun and spirited give-and-take. Oh nice! - [Seller] Nice. Dollar. I need dollar. - A handy mini-bus service
loops from downtown through Spain's best old
Moorish quarter, the Albaicin. Increasingly around Europe, mini-buses wind locals through
narrow lanes of old quarters. Tourists can hop on for a
cheap and scenic joy ride. (horn honks) The Albaicin, with flowery patios and
shady lanes, is a delight. Exploring these labyrinthine back lanes and inviting neighborhood squares, you feel the Arab heritage that permeates so much of Andalusia. Enjoy a drink on a no-name square. Savor the lazy tempo of Granada life. An alternative community of young people, nicknamed Pie de Negro, or Blackfeet for their basic earthiness, hangs out in the Albaicin. (singing rhythmically in Spanish) (singing rhythmically in Spanish) (singing rhythmically in Spanish) - [Rick] And Granada is home
to tens of thousands of Gypsies or Roma people. While their nomadic culture makes traditional employment a challenge, one vocation in which they excel is music. (singing rhythmically in Spanish) (upbeat flamenco music) (singing rhythmically in Spanish) - [Rick] In the evening, in
the hilly Sacromonte district, Gypsy families entertain tourists with colorful folkloric shows. These intimate concerts are
performed in the very caves that once housed
Granada's Gypsy community. (rhythmic clapping with flamenco music) - [Audience] Ole!
(audience applauds) - [Rick] Along with Gypsies and Hippies, tolerant Granada has a
sizable Muslim population. A modern mosque built in 2003 fits in with the local architecture and comes with a live call to prayer. - Allah!
(speaking in Arabic) - The muezzin cries, "God is great" from the minaret without amplification, as non-Muslim neighbors insisted. There are about 700,000 Muslims in Spain and that includes nearly
10% of Granada's residents. To learn more, we're joined by Malik Baso, a member of Granada's Muslim community. Would you say most of the Spanish Muslims are immigrant laborers
coming over from Africa for better jobs? - Yes. Moroccans, Algerians,
Turks, Pakistanis. But of course there is the recent phenomenon of
Spanish Muslims as well. - Because you were? You're Spanish? - Yes, I'm from Barcelona. - So tell me a little
bit about this mosque. - Well, it was the first
mosque built in Granada after the Reconquista. So for 500 years, this was the first
purpose-built mosque in Granada. It was promoted by a lot of people who were native Spanish Muslims,
born and raised in Spain, although it caters for all the Muslims. - So how has the process been
with community relations? - Well, some people were
fearful at first, you know? The effect of the media and such. But 10 years later, here we are and some of our most vocal opponents are now our best friends because they appreciate what
we're doing and who we are. - The mosque stands next to one of Europe's most romantic viewpoints. From the St. Nicholas
Terrace, as the Sun sets, locals and visitors alike
enjoy both a historic backdrop and a convivial moment. To extend the magic, grab a prime table at
one of several historic Albaicin manor houses,
called Carmens, for dinner. You'll pay a bit more, but I
can't think of a better way to cap your visit to Granada. (relaxing cheerful music) From Granada, it's a two-hour
drive over the mountains and down into Europe's
fun-in-the-Sun headquarters, the Costa del Sol. I find this strip of
Mediterranean coastline generally overbuilt and
very commercialized. Malaga, the major city of the coast, is a good place to pass through. And almost anything even resembling a quaint fishing village is long gone, replaced by timeshare
condos and golf courses. The big draw is the beaches. There are plenty of hotels and Sun worshipers enjoy themselves in spite of the congestion
and lack of charm or local culture. Nearly every country from
Europe's drizzly north tucks an expatriate community
somewhere along this coast. They don't wanna leave their
culture, just their weather. (relaxing upbeat music) My favorite Costa del Sol stop
is the resort town of Nerja. While capitalizing on the holiday culture, Nerja has retained some of its charm. The church fronts the square,
which fronts the beach, and everybody's out strolling, eventually winding up on the proud Balcony of Europe terrace. This bluff, jutting jauntily into the sea, overlooks miles of coastline. A castle occupied this spot for centuries. Nerja's Castle was part of a
16th century lookout system after Reconquista forces
drove out the Muslim. Oh! That's right. You don't come to the
Costa del Sol for history, you come for fun-in-the-Sun
and relaxation. And relax is what countless
expat residents do. Nerja's expats are mostly British. Like many along this coast, they actually try not to integrate. They enjoy their English TV and radio and many barely learn a word of Spanish. (cheerful guitar music) Nerja has several well-equipped beaches. The one just below town retains
its fishing village charm. Fishermen do their thing
while the tourists do theirs. The humble cottage evokes a bygone day. Spaniards love their
little beach restaurants. A short hike takes us to a broader beach that appeals to different tastes. While it's packed through the summer, we're here in May when the
heat and crowds are just right. Ayo's Place is famous for its beachside
all-you-can-eat paella feast. For 30 years he's been cooking up this classic Spanish specialty. To create this culinary work of art, start with some junk pallets for fuel and slip on your handmade heat shields. Then fry up as many pieces of
chicken as can fit in the pan. Add just a pinch of garlic and about a week's pays worth of saffron. When the chicken is golden brown, add a dozen skinned tomatoes and as many red and green peppers
as you can stand chopping. Stir everything with a clean shovel. Now add a laundry bin of arboreal rice and just a dash of smoked sweet pimentos. Stir briskly until the
rice has become coated with the oils and spices. Add a few gallons of
stock and bring to a boil. Add another pallet if necessary. Mix in a boatload of fresh whole shrimp. When the rice is done, remove, remembering to lift with your knees, and let set for 10 minutes. Now you could just stare at
the pretty colors and textures, but I recommend eating it
for the full experience. Dish out servings daintily and garnish with a wedge of lemon. Feeds 48 hungry vacationers. Adjust recipe measurements accordingly. (cheerful upbeat music) A hundred mile drive back inland takes us to the city of Cordoba. (upbeat flamenco guitar music) While Granada was the
last Moorish capital, the capital through the
glory days of Muslim rule was Cordoba. Tucked into a bend of its river, Cordoba has a glorious past. While its old wall evokes a tough history, its elegant city scape
and convivial squares show a modern pride. As is typical of Andalusia, it's a people-friendly city
filled with energy and color. Cordoba's centerpiece is
a massive former mosque, or in Spanish, mezquita. This huge rectangle dominates the tangled Medieval
town that surrounds it. Grand gates lead to the courtyard. It was here, when this was a mosque, that worshipers would gather
to wash before prayer, as directed by Muslim law. Entering, you step into a
forest of delicate columns and graceful arches dating
from over a thousand years ago. At its zenith, this mosque was
the center of Western Islam in the heart of a cultural capital that rivaled Baghdad and Constantinople. A wonder of the Medieval world, it's remarkably well preserved, giving today's visitors
a chance to appreciate Islamic Cordoba in its 10th century prime. The columns and arches
seem to recede to infinity, as if reflecting the immensity and complexity of God's creation. The mihrab, the focal point
of worship in a mosque, was built in the mid-10th century. It's richly mosaicked with 3,000 pounds of tiny multicolored
glass and enamel cubes. A painting in the adjacent
treasury takes us back to 1236 when Christians conquered the
city and everything changed. Here we see the Spanish king accepting the keys to
Cordoba's fortified gate from the vanquished Muslims. According to legend, one morning Muslims
said their last prayers in the great mosque, that afternoon, the Christians set up their portable road altar
and celebrated the first mass in what would later become
this glorious cathedral. As if planting a cross
into its religious heart, this grand cathedral was built
in the middle of the mosque. Taking two centuries to complete, the cathedral is a glorious mix of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. A statue actually called
"St. James the Moor Slayer," stands next to the altar. Sword raised as usual, James
is busy conquering Muslims. Other art is less provocative. The Baroque era choir stalls
are made of New World mahogany. With exquisite carving, it's considered one of the masterpieces of 18th century Andalusian Baroque. And towering over the former mosque, a bell tower makes it clear
this huge edifice now houses a place of Christian worship. In the 10th century, when a minaret stood where
the bell tower stands today, Cordoba was arguably
Europe's greatest city. It was a cultural capital with probably 10 times
the population of Paris. Imagine the city, the paved streets, lit at night by oil lamps,
piped in running water, hundreds of mosques,
palaces, and public baths. (enchanted instrumental music) It was a city of poets and scholars. While things changed later,
the golden age of Al-Andalus, as this society was called, was marked by a remarkable
spirit of tolerance and cooperation among all religions. To learn more, I'm joined by my friend and fellow tour guide Isabelle Martinez. So Jews, Christians and Muslims all living
together peacefully here. - Yes, certainly. It worked out during certain times, especially during the 10th century. - Three different cultures together? - Well, that's what most
of the people think, but I think it's more correct
to say it was one culture with three religions. Because at the end, all the people here
talked Arabian language, cooked the same dishes
and wore the same clothes. - Okay, one culture, three religions. - Exactly. - Al-Andalus.
- It was magic time. - [Rick] Cordoba's narrow flower bedecked lanes invite exploration. With Isabelle's help, a simple stroll becomes meaningful. - Notice how nice and fresh
these little streets are, Rick? - Yes. - It's narrowness and whitewashed walls. Natural air conditioning. - It feels cool. - It's brilliant! (enchanted instrumental music continues) So this beautiful chateau
reminds us of the times when the women were hidden from public. Muslim Cordoba had hundreds of mosques, but most of them were destroyed. But some minarets survived
as church bell towers. - [Rick] So this was a minaret first and now it's a bell tower for that church? - [Isabelle] Yeah. Exactly. - [Rick] Cordoba's characteristic patios have functioned like outdoor living rooms since ancient Roman times. They're quiet, an oasis from the heat, and filled with flowers. Locals decorate them with pride. In fact, each year many compete and open their patios to the public. And here, as throughout Andalusia, festivals fill the calendar. We're here for the Festival of the Crosses where each neighborhood parties around its own cross made of carnations. Church bells ring not
only a call to prayer, but a call to fiesta. Neighbors pack the squares
for a community party. This barrio entered for
the first time this year, they won and they've
been reveling ever since. (singing cheerfully in Spanish) (singing cheerfully in Spanish) (singer singing in Spanish) - [Rick] Major square's
host bigger events. I find experiencing
traditional flamenco culture celebrated by and for the
locals beats any tourist show. (singer singing in Spanish) (dramatic trumpeting music) - [Rick] Here in Andalusia,
revelry and religiosity seem to go hand-in-hand as the same passion and energy is put into long sober religious processions which clog the city's narrow streets. Trumpets blare a fanfare,
children carry candles, and everyone runs to the streets to be part of the procession. Many of these same locals
will party on squares until late into the night. Others will sit down to a
classic Andalusian dinner. Isabelle has invited us to Bodegas Campos, a historic and venerable house of eating, for our own festival of
Andalusian specialties. And here in Andalusia, no special meal starts without
the porcine gold standard, Jamon Iberico. (diners chatter) - This is a special Jamon. - Jamon? - Jamon Iberico. - [Rick] Why does it taste
so good? The Jamon Iberico? - Because the pig lived outside. - Okay, so he's running around. - He lives in the countryside. It's free. - [Rick] After the Jamon Iberico, the plates just keep on coming. This place specializes in
traditional Andalusian fare, rustic food that originated
with the peasantry and a few dishes have a Moorish influence. But if there's one common
denominator to all the food, it's: - Olive oil. - [Rick] Olive oil. - Definitely. - The finale, definitely
for carnivores only, is pork from the Iberian black pig. And what could be more
Spanish? Bull's tail. We've had nine different plates. - Yeah, we love eating and we love sitting around
the table for hours. - It's living well. - Yeah. It's Andalusian lifestyle. (cheerful guitar music) - A two hour drive west takes us into Andalusia's mountainous interior where the root of the Pueblos
Blancos laces together a characteristic string
of whitewashed hill towns, whether crouching in a ravine
or perched atop a hill, each town painted white to stay cool in the scorching summers has a personality and a story of its own. Zahara, set under its imposing castle, was a Moorish stronghold
in the 13th century. Its breathtaking perch
was typical of towns that had to play hard-to-get during that centuries-long
struggle by Christian forces to push the Moors back south and reconquer this part of Europe. And in the Reconquista,
Zahara was a strategic prize. Today Zahara is a delight to explore. The tour is quick. A church, a plaza, a
few sleepy restaurants, and a grand view. The dramatic road linking the towns cuts through the Sierra
de Grazalema Natural Park. This park is famed throughout Spain for its lush and rugged mountain scenery. The queen of the white towns
is Arcos de la Frontera. Arcos smothers its hilltop, tumbling down its back like
the train of a wedding dress. The old center is a delight to explore. Viewpoint top all the way through town. The people of Arcos boast that only they see the backs
of the birds as they fly. Feel the wind funnel
through the narrow streets as cars inch around tight corners. Driving is tricky. It's a one-way system. If you miss your hotel, you'll circle all the way around again. Under the castle and facing the church is the town's main square, which once doubled as a bull ring. Towns like Arcos with de
la Frontier in their names, were established on the frontier. That was on the front lines
during that centuries-long fight to take Spain back from the Muslims. As the Moors were slowly
pushed back into North Africa, the towns, while no longer
of any strategic importance, kept on the frontier in their names. The main church is a
reminder of that Reconquest. After Christian forces retook Arcos, it was the same old story. The mosque was demolished and a church was built on its ruins. (relaxing guitar music) Another short drive takes us to the biggest whitewash
town on the route, Ronda, with nearly 40,000 people. While crowded with day-tripping tourists from the nearby Costa Del Sol,
early and late in the day, locals retake their streets and squares. Ronda is famous for its
gorge-straddling setting. Its breathtaking perch, while
visually dramatic today, was practical and vital when it was built. For the Moors, it
provided a tough bastion, one of the last to be conquered
by the Spaniards in 1485. The ravine divides Ronda
into its old Moorish town and the relatively modern new town which was built after
the Christian Reconquest. The two towns were
connected by this bridge in the late 1700s. Part of the joy of Ronda lies in exploring the twisted
lanes of its Moorish quarter. As you wander among
its beautiful balconies and exuberant flower pots, each corner reveals yet another surprise. This cliffside mansion comes
with a bell epoch garden. And from the garden, an evocative staircase leads
to the floor of the gorge. It was dug seven centuries ago
by the Moors to access water. Imagine Christian slaves
hauling water and leather bags up these stairs all day long. The landing where the staircase
finally hits the river marks a legendary turning
point in Ronda's history. In 1485, Reconquista forces
took control of this, the city's water source, and within 10 days, thirsty
Ronda above surrendered. At the base of the town is the old bridge, some surviving bits of the
old Moorish city walls, and the remains of what was for centuries the main gate to the walled city. Back when Ronda was a fortified
town under Muslim rule, you entered from here. And according to Moorish
custom, before entering, you'd wash and pray. That's why there was a
public bath and mosque just outside the gate. (relaxing guitar music) I stay right in the old town action. Hotel San Gabrielle has great character. It's well run with inviting public rooms and bedrooms that make
you feel quite noble. And just over the bridge, the newer town, while more stately, has equally
inviting streets and plazas. Strolling the streets, you feel
a strong sense of community where everyone seems to know everyone. (upbeat music) While I generally go
for the rustic old bars, tonight a local friend's
taking me to a modern one. Tragata Tapas puts a contemporary
spin on traditional tapas. We are just eating our way through the entire list of daily specials. Sure, you'll find your olives and ham, but you'll also enjoy asparagus snowed in with Manchego cheese, delicate cod cheek sandwiches, and spicy puled pork. One basic rule is the same everywhere. If you want a chance
to mingle with locals, grab a stool at the bar. (diners chattering) (somber upbeat flamenco music) - Ronda is near and dear to Spaniards as the birthplace of modern bull fighting. It has the first great Spanish
bull ring built in 1785. Visitors can imagine confronting the bull as it thunders into the ring. The arena's columns corral the action, creating a kind of Neoclassical theater. Bull fighting originated as
a form of military training, refined knights fighting the
noble beast on horseback. It evolved to the spectacle
that survives to this day. While controversial to
many for its brutality, aficionados insist bull
fighting's not a sport, it's an art form. (relaxing upbeat music) And the Museum of Bull Fighting
celebrates this tradition. Matadors in their suits
of light were heartthrobs. Etchings by the great Spanish
painter Goya show that he was clearly an enthusiast. The museum feels like a
shrine to Pedro Romero. In the 18th century, Romero established the rules
of modern bull fighting. After Ronda, we wind out of the Andalusian
mountains and leave Spain for a visit to England's
famed rock of Gibraltar. Gibraltar stands like a fortress, the gateway to the Mediterranean. A stubborn little piece of Old England, it's one of the last
bits of a British empire that at one time controlled
1/4 of the planet. The rock itself seems to
represent stability and power. And as if to remind visitors
that they've left Spain and entered the United Kingdom, international flights
land on this airstrip which runs along the border. Car traffic has to stop for each plane. Still, entering Gibraltar
is far easier today than back when Frankel
blockaded this border. From the late 1960s until the '80s, the only way in was by sea or air. Now you just have to wait
for the plane to taxi by and Bob's your uncle. (cheerful music) The sea once reached these ramparts. A modern development grows into the harbor and today half the city is
built upon reclaimed land. Gibraltar's Old Town is long and skinny with one main street. Gibraltarians are a proud bunch. Remaining steadfastly loyal to Britain, its 30,000 residents vote overwhelmingly to continue as a self-governing
British dependency. Within a generation, the economy has gone from
one dominated by the military to one based on tourism. But it's much more than
sunburned Brits on holiday. Gibraltar is a crossroads community with a jumble of Muslims,
Jews, Hindus, and Italians joining the English and
all crowded together at the base of this mighty rock. With its strategic setting, Gibraltar has an
illustrious military history and remnants of its martial
past are everywhere. (victorious cheerful music) The rock is honeycombed with tunnels. Many were blasted out by the
Brits in Napoleonic times. During World War II, Britain drilled 30 more miles of tunnels. The hundred-ton gun is one of many cannon that both protected Gibraltar
and controlled shipping in the Strait. A cable car whisks visitors from downtown to the rock's 1,400 foot summit. From the top of the rock, Spain's Costa del Sol arcs eastward, and 15 miles across the
hazy Strait of Gibraltar, the shores of Morocco beckon. These cliffs and those over in Africa created what ancient societies in the Mediterranean world
called the Pillars of Hercules. For centuries, they were the foreboding
gateway to the unknown. (playful music) Descending the rock,
whether you like it or not, you'll meet the famous apes of Gibraltar. 200 of these mischief
makers entertain tourists. And with all the visitors, they're bold and they get their way. Yeah, you can have it. You can have it. You can. Here on the Rock of Gibraltar, the locals are very friendly
but give them your apples. Legend has it that as long
as these apes are here, the British will stay in Gibraltar. (relaxing upbeat music) Sweeping north from this
southernmost tip of Europe, in a couple of hours we're in my vote for the most exciting single city to experience in Andalusia. Seville, or Sevilla, as they say here, is the biggest city in Andalusia and packed with sightseeing fun. Walking it streets, you're immersed in a flamboyant city of
larger-than-life lovers like Carmen and Don Juan, where bull fighting is
still politically correct and where little girls
still dream of growing up to become flamenco dancers. Seville has soul and a
contagious love of life. Seville was Europe's
gateway to the New World in the 16th century. It flourished during the Age of Discovery. The explorers Christopher
Columbus, Ferdinand Magellan, and Amerigo Vespucci all
sailed from right here. The golden tower was the
starting and ending point for trade with the New World. For centuries part of the
city's fortifications, it came with a heavy chain
draped across the river to protect the harbor. In the 16th century, Seville's Golden Age was
powered by New World riches. In the 17th century, all that money made the city an important
center of arts and culture. In the 18th century,
as its harbor silted up and the Spanish empire crumbled, Seville's power faded. And in the 19th century, the
one powerful now quaint Seville became an important
stop on the Romantic Era Grand tour of Europe. In the 20th century, 1992 to be exact, Seville hosted a World's
Fair that left the city with today's striking 21st
century infrastructure. Dramatic bridges, a
sleek new train system, and even a new airport. Today, with 700,000 people, it's Spain's fourth largest city, an exuberant Andalusian capital. (singing in Spanish)
(clapping rhythmically) - [Rick] But the charm of
Seville is best enjoyed in its traditions like flamenco. Spaniards consider Andalusia
the home of flamenco. While impromptu flamenco
still erupts spontaneously in old world bars, most tourists
attend a show like this. The men do most of the
machine gun footwork. (clapping rhythmically) - Hey! - [Rick] The women
concentrate on graceful turns and a smooth dramatic step. (dramatic guitar music) Flamenco guitarists, with their lightning
fast finger roll strums, are among the best in the world. (castanets clapping) The intricate rhythms are set by castanets and hand clapping. (singing in Spanish) - [Rick] In the raspy
voiced wails of the singers, you'll hear echoes of the
Muslim call to prayer, an evocative reminder of
centuries of Moorish rule. (rhythmic clapping) (audience cheers and applauds) (relaxing guitar music) - The town square is Plaza Nueva. It honors King Ferdinand the Third, fondly remembered for freeing
Seville from the Moors in the 13th century. From here, wander into Seville's
pedestrian zone shopping center, which Spaniards prefer
to the suburban mall. This is the place for
traditional Spanish fashions. But I wouldn't know my
Manchego from my mantilla without a little local help. My friend and local tour
guide, Concepcion Delgado, has agreed to be my personal shopper. So there's all these
traditional things to buy. Isn't it just for tourists
that they sell these? - No way! These are for locals. We love our things. We have preserved our
traditions for centuries. - So these traditions are healthy? - Completely! This is one of my favorite shops. Buenos Dias! - [Rick] Hello. (cheerful upbeat music) (shoppers chatter) - Here. Now let me show you the three most traditional accessories that women wear in Spain. Shawls, mantillas, and fans. Starting with the shawls
that you can see here. Big display of beautiful
colors and embroideries, which are very practical for us too. We would use them as accessories, but they also have a function which is warming you when you're cold. This is what we wear on
top of the beautiful, nice flamenco dresses to
attend to the April Feria. On top of the flamenco dress,
you cannot wear a simple coat. You have to wear something
more distinguished, which is a shawl. You can leave it like that. - [Rick] Oh! - It's more sexy. (shoppers chatter and laughs) - Here we've got the mantilla. The mantilla is another accessory which can be in two
colors, white or black. It's always combined with this clump, which is incorporated in
the mantilla like this and then we wear that on our heads. - [Rick] Okay. - The white one, it's only for the Feria, for the festival in April, when women wear them to
attend the bull fights. Let's have a look at the fans now. As you can see, very different
colors, different materials, but they are mostly made in wood. Remember that Seville gets
very hot during the summer and women, all ladies use them, especially when they attend services. Very old churches,
there's no air condition and they are cooling themselves like this. Sometimes you hardly
hear the priest, just: (fan tapping) That's all around you. In the old days, there
was a language with fans, which is disappearing. But in the love game
it was very useful too. For example, you were looking at someone that you weren't interested at. (Rick laughs cheerfully) You can go away because
I don't like you much. But if you were really interested. (fan tapping) That movement, can you tell him something? Don't you think? Anyway, the most common
movement for fan is: (fan scrapes) - As we've seen elsewhere, the Moors left a distinct
mark on Andalusian culture. Like Granada has its Alhambra,
and Cordoba has its Mesquita, Seville has its Alcazar. Built more than 600 years ago, this magnificent building still
functions as a royal palace. The Alcazar provides a
thought-provoking glimpse of a graceful Moorish world that might have survived
its Christian conquerors, but didn't. What you see today is
a 14th century rebuild done in Mudejar style. This was a Moorish style
done by Moorish craftsmen, but for Christian rulers
after the Reconquest. (enchanted flute music) This became the king's palace. Its centerpiece was the
elegantly proportioned Court of the Maidens. It was decorated Mudejar
below and Renaissance above. The king hired Muslim workers
to give Moorish elegance to what was a stark fortress. They built what's considered
the finest Mudejar building in all of Spain. The intimate Doll's Court was
the king's living quarters. Imagine the royal family
lounging around a reflecting pool in this courtyard. Once again, we see sacred verses in
intricately carved Arabic script. But the decor here is clearly Christian. You'll see animals, buildings, and kings that you wouldn't normally
find in religious Muslim art, which forbids images. A century or so later, just after Columbus's
New World discoveries, Queen Isabelle built a
more European style wing to the palace. Anticipating a big business
in plunder and trade, she built this to administer
Spain's New World ventures. The chapel is dedicated to
Santa Maria Del Buenos Ayres. St. Mary of the Good Winds was the patron saint of navigators and a favorite of Columbus. This altar painting dates from
shortly after Columbus died and features what's considered the first and most accurate portrait
of the great explorer, on the left. It's also thought to be the
first painting of Indians done in Europe. The Virgin's cape seems to
protect everyone under it, even the Indians. Like the palace, the gardens
reflect a mix of cultures. The intimate geometric
Moorish gardens lead to the later much more expansive
backyard of Spanish kings. The gardens are full of tropical
flowers, cool fountains, and, in the summer, hot tourists. I'm thankful we're here in late April, beating the brutal heat
of the Andalusian summer. The Moors were relatively
tolerant of other religions. During their rule,
Christians, Jews and Muslims shared the city peacefully. After the Christian Reconquest, Seville's thriving Jewish
community was concentrated here in the Barrio de Santa Cruz. Today, only a few peaceful squares surrounded by a tangled web of valleys survives from the days when this was Seville's Jewish quarter. (relaxing music) Explore, wander among
lane's too narrow for cars, whitewashed houses
corralling peaceful squares, and rod iron lattice work. Regardless of who lived here, the design of the neighborhood
seems to have one goal: Stay cool. The narrow streets, some with buildings so close
they're called kissing lanes, were designed to maximize shade. Homes faced an inner courtyard
offering a welcome refuge from the bustle in summer heat. The Moors gave Andalusia its
characteristic glazed tiles with only geometric patterns. In later centuries, Christians decorated their
tiles with livelier scenes. Either way, the tiles
kept buildings cooler. Residents here winter upstairs and moved down to the cooler
courtyard level in the summer. - [Concepcion] These orange
trees are great for shade. They never lose their leaves. - [Rick] And refreshing too on a hot day. - Well not to eat. These
are sour orange trees. We just use them for vitamins, perfume, or that kind of marmalade
the British like. - Oh, that bitter English marmalade? Yeah. - It's made with our oranges. - The Santa Cruz neighborhood
comes with a timeless beauty. Savor the simple elegance of Seville. The delicate charms of Santa Cruz are just a few steps from
Seville's immense cathedral. It's the third largest church in Europe after St. Peter's in the
Vatican in St. Paul's in London, and the largest Gothic church anywhere. When they ripped down the mosque that stood on this site in 1401, the Reconquista Christians bragged, "We'll build a cathedral so huge that anyone who sees it
will take us for mad men." You could fit a soccer field in here. Everything is super-sized. The towering main altarpiece
is covered in gold leaf. Constructed in the 1480s, it's composed of hundreds of figures. It tells the story of the
life of Jesus in 40 scenes from his birth to his resurrection. The choir and enclosure
within the cathedral for more intimate services surrounds a spinnable music rack. It held giant hymnals, large enough for all to chant from in an age when there
weren't enough for everyone. In the transept, four pallbearers carry the
tomb of Christopher Columbus. They represent the four Medieval
kingdoms that became Spain. Aragon, Navarra, Castile, and Leone, each identified by their team shirts. Columbus even traveled
a lot after he died. He was buried first in Seville, then moved to Santo Domingo, then to Cuba. And after Cuba earned its
independence from Spain around 1900, he sailed all
the way back here to Seville. Is he really in there? Sevillanas like to think so. All that survives of Moorish
Seville's main mosque is its courtyard of orange
trees and a towering minaret. The tower offers a brief
recap of the city's history, sitting on a Roman foundation, a long Moorish period
capped by the Christian age. The Moors built its spiraling ramp to accommodate a rider on horseback. Somebody climbed this
tower five times a day to call Seville's Muslims to prayer. Today, tourists gallop
up for fine city views. (relaxing enchanted music) And the former minaret functions as the cathedral's bell tower. It's topped with a bronze weather vein, a statute that symbolizes
the triumph of faith. Perhaps the most famous of religious icons in this very religious city,
the Virgin of the Macarena can be found in the nearby
Basilica de la Macarena. Grab a pew and study the weeping virgin. She's a 17th century doll, complete with articulated
arms and human hair. She's even dressed with underclothes. With crystal teardrops,
her beautiful expression somewhere between ecstasy
and sorrow, touches pilgrims. Seville's Semana Santa,
or Holy Week celebrations, are the most magnificent in Spain. During the week leading up to Easter, the city's packed with pilgrims witnessing grand processions, carrying elaborate floats
through the streets. The two most impressive
floats of the festivities are parked behind the altar. The biggest float, slathered in gold leaf, shows the sentencing of Christ. Pontius Pilate is about to wash his hands. His wife cries as a man
reads the death sentence. While pious Sevillian
women wail in the streets, relays of 48 men carry
this three ton float on the backs of their necks. Only their feet show
from under these drapes as they shuffle through the streets from about midnight until
two in the afternoon each Good Friday. This float with the weeping
virgin from the church's altar placed regally in the center
is the hit of the parade. It's festooned with wax
flowers and candelabra. It seems fragile. All silver and candles. Locals explain it's strong
enough to support the roof while delicate enough to quiver
in the soft night breeze. (relaxing enchanted music) Have you actually seen this
one going through the streets? - The Queen of the City, you mean? - [Rick] Yes. - Of course. She even wears her crown. And that day she looks
absolutely beautiful. When she goes through the
streets, people get crazy. They can't explain all
those emotions and they clap or they cry or they throw
petals from balconies. - What's so special about
this particular Mary? - She knows everything about us because we have been telling
her our problems for centuries. Her name is Hope, which
is what we all need. - [Rick] With all this religiosity, it's no surprise that
Seville is also famous for letting loose in vibrant festivals. And we're here for the biggest
of all, the April Fair. For seven days each April,
it seems much of Seville is packed into its vast fairgrounds. The fair feels friendly,
spontaneous, very real. The Andalusian passion
for horses, flamenco: (singing in Spanish) - [Rick] And sherry is clear. Riders are ramrod straight, colorfully clad senoritas
ride side saddle, and everyone's drinking sherry spritzers. Women sport outlandish dresses that would look clownish all alone, but somehow brilliant here in mass. As in spring fairs throughout Andalusia, countless casetas line the lanes. In these private party tents, Andalusians of all stripes
let their hair down. To get in, you need to
know someone in the group or make friends quickly. Concepcion's well connected, and as a friend of a friend, we're in. (crowd chattering) - My caseta. - [Rick] My caseta. This is your caseta? - [Sevillian] Enter la caseta. - Because of the exclusivity, it has a real family affair feeling. Everyone seems to know everyone in what seems like a
thousand wedding parties being celebrated all at the same time. It's time to say, "Adios"
to Concepcion, Seville, and to Andalusia, where the celebration
seems to go on and on. From hill towns to horses, and from inviting beaches
to memorable meals, from historic mosques
to glorious churches, and from religious passion
to flamenco fiestas, you come away inspired to embrace life with a little more vigor. Andalusia is a particularly
proud and passionate culture in touch with its heritage and enthusiastic about sharing it all. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time, keep on traveling. Adios! Fascinating sights, sounds and experiences of Southern Spain. Ha, hoo! (laughs) Ha, hoo! Spain was a predominantly Muslim society living under Muslim rule. Here. Here. - [Director] Oh, don't poke
him with it. He'll kill you. - Take that. Okay. Hey! (crowd chattering) (seller hollering in Spanish) - Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of "The Best of Europe." This time-
(seller hollering in Spanish) (cheerful upbeat music)
