Land Rover Series hydraulic capstan winch build

welcome to disarmament this videos around my capstan winch project from where series 3 I wasn't planning on making a video for this so most of this will be stills taken throughout the belly with a small video clips here and there where I actually felt something so why build one rather than buy one well having changed the 2.25 petrol for a v8 with the 4 speed box the traditional fairy arrow parts and superwinch capstans just wouldn't fit because the quite knows of my conversion no longer lines up with the hole in the front of chassis crossmember this presented a bit of a problem I've overcome that by making the winch hydraulically driven the system I've come up with uses a 20 CC per Rev gear pump with an electromagnetic clutch of an aircon compressor Graaff dollars in front this allows me to have a pump running only when needed the winch body itself consists of a commercial gearbox driven by a hundred CC probe Giraldo motor it's massive massive overkill for this application but it does mean that if I operate within the gearbox limits hydraulic pressure and load on the pump clutch need not be that high mounting the pump is interesting is there's really only one place to fit it which I'll explain in a moment and not a lot of space there but before going any further I need to test the whole setup out so the lake got some issues setting up a pulley in the three-jaw was far easier than making it all before the motor amount to get up somewhere up to this point I've never run the hydraulic motor so this is a good time to test it and double-check it actually work before spending a lot of time on it thankfully it seems to be in good shape and yes I couldn't help taking a little peek inside bonafide it didn't get any pics the most challenging part is probably this the spline collection for the motor I spent hours looking and I still got no idea where the actual spec for the splines is I only have a small lathe no indexing head and no milling machine the motor has 14 splines of this unknown spec so I found a 28 to do use and build to set up for the lathe headstock to use as an indexing head a few bits of racket returned the top slide into a money'll actuated shaper there's a bad video of this and I'll link that down below apologies for the quality all I've done is remove the lead screw from the top slide indicated it parallel to the bed amount to deform tool in a boring bar the setups deliberately dang me to stop me evening on it from rocking the tool about the tools advanced with the cross slide and the carriages it's crude but actually worked really well made from me tonight which is a consistently soft free machining brand of cast iron perfect for the job it was nice and easy to shape and it comes out beautifully here's the result fits like a glove a second part was needed to adapt this to the gearbox input which happily has a simple key way seats for the keyway were cut in the lathe using the vertical slide and a couple of small end wheels given the size of the lathe I'm quite happy with the result the motor and gearbox adapt at being two parts gives an opportunity to fit for our shear pins while I have to set up in the laiitha I also cut the key waste for the main shaft gearbox and winch bollard connection making the color to join the motor to the gearbox of the next challenge this is mostly bits of scrap steel I had laying around marked up with some printed out CAD templates and cut with a slitting disc or the plasma cutter basically two plates with a piece of cold wrong pipe welded in the middle I had to do some turning to make sure everything was true and concentric because the coupling doesn't have much room for anything to be running off access luckily both motor and gearbox have some good datum zone I managed to get it spot-on gearbox originally had a large mounting plate for an electric motor it's made of a lien rather large so it decided to make a entirely new mount integral with did you pace to join the motor this needed to be done carefully as the back of the plate sits against the input bearing inserts the bearing preload you can see me measuring it here with the plastic edge just to double-check this got complicated by the need for the oil seal to fit from the back of the plate to as its diameter is bigger than that of the tube I ended up with a two-piece design with the boss setting the bearing preload being a separate piece allowing the seal to be fitted from the rear the bearing preload piece then sits behind that it seems to work well enough and I think about the proline correct it's certainly the same as it was before with the old plate with all that done I focused my attention on the mounting plate I could have used a thick solid plate here but I didn't have anything big enough and a 3-mile plate just the right size was close at hand a bit of CAD work to get the rough design worked out got me going this is just basic fabrication stuff really I rolled the bendy bits on a mini ring roller and pressed a few pieces like the cap for the bollard in the hydraulic press I decided to add a support bearing to the plate to take the side loader the gearbox isn't really designed for the support consists of a me anoint gel on the main shaft which runs in an oil bushing pressed into a chromoly housing in the plate the gearbox locates on the plate with an interference fit colouring gets retained by 8 and 10 bolts there's an extra row of support ribs where the bolts go through the plate that act as crush tubes ribs on between the bolts right to the edges making the whole plate very rigid the fairleads made for more scrap bin bits and bobs the supports are shaped with the plasma cutter and grow under and get secured to the plate with fitted m8 bolts and captive nuts mounting the motor was a little tricky there's not a lot of room to work down there luckily I have a spare v8 so I rake that out of storage and use it to get the pump mal figured out it picks up on some existing mounting holes in the block with an adjustable steady at the rear if you're wondering why I didn't use a single piece designed for the front plate there are two reasons firstly I wouldn't be able to swing that bigger part in the lathe secondly it makes things quite a lot easier as the intermediate plate allows me some degree of freedom to move the motor it fits snugly in the only space available at the front under the left bank to drive it I had to add a second pulley there's room for this behind the existing pulley and on this engine there press steel and could be welding cunning use of the plasma cutter in a rotary table got the second pulley sliced off and ready to be carefully welded on belt tension can be adjusted by moving the pump on it smells like an alternator the tank is an ebay oil catch tank drill to accept some half BSP fittings time will tell if it's big enough though to mount the tank had to move the washer bottle it's new homes on the defender heater where it seems quite happy and actually works better than before and now we come to the last major challenge how to fix the gearbox bollard and main shaft together I had the piece of cold drawn 35 mil bar set with the keyways already and I could have simply world it a collar on to the end and used a pen or similar to secure the other however if the shaft gets held in tension compressing the stack of gearbox bushing collar and bollard the whole assembly becomes effectively much larger diameter for the purposes of resisting bending loads so threading the ends seemed like the only sane option the main shafts really too long for the ml 10 so I had to come up with a creative setup another sticking point was in my lathe has an imperial lead screw the shelf tis metric and I'd never cut threads on a lathe before I guess it's the first time for everything there's the nuts forever only going to be used with this shaft I'm not gonna worry too much about having a 16 TPI thread with the metric form on a 35 mm shaft hmm it turned out to be quite a simple operation and I ended up with two perfectly threaded ends binge-watching able and videos pays off apparently two knots are produced from a piece of 50 mil hex bar stock in pretty much the same fashion completing the shaft the cap picks up on the top not virus small threaded piece it can be bolted down to then it's time for paint assembly and the final moment of truth the damn thing actually works I bought some special natural fiber rope to go with it as a synthetic stuff apparently tends to suffer from friction I won't be winched challenging anytime soon but I'll probably use it for dragging stuff on to the trailer and stuff like that I built a front hitch on my Sankey so I'll just have to figure out a quick way to run the right path to it anyway thanks for watching I hope you found it interesting informative or at least had a good laugh and my antics

Channel: Designments

Views: 3,008

Keywords: Land Rover, Land Rover series, Winch, Capstan winch, hydraulic winch, fabrication, project

Id: dF-lvUMFgMY

Length: 7min 33sec (453 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 12 2019